"Help!" for: Electronics

[thatdecade]

Oh, pre-wired LEDs to batteries already. Gotcha.

Can find those on ebay, search "wired led". There are also some enterprising members on the 405th forum here that sell pre-wired LED kits for good prices.

Edit: Data stream across the lenses. Wouldn't that make it hard to see out the glasses? You can use a sticker decal, then illuminate the sticker with a clever placed LED. You would have to experiment to see what looks best.
Another option is a side lit etching, see this thread: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/16993-Edge-Lit-H.-U.-D.

 

[Spartan 010]

Hey guys! As you all know, Halloween is coming up and so is the Anniversary Edition of Halo: Combat Evolved! For Halloween my brothers, cousins and myself are doing the Avengers from Marvel, and hopefully, I'll be able to make a few new suits of Spartan armor for the Halo release.

Now to the point of my question, =P

I would love to learn on my own but I don't have very much time. In this case and many others I am sure, I need the council of others.

I need to know how to add sound to my electronics. I'm sure Arduinos would work but from what I understand it would cost.... mmmm $35~ just for the "starting kit". Since I don't have enough funds I need to know if there is another way to do it. "Do what exactly?" Well, for instance, my brother is going to be Iron Man. Lighting and all is easy. I need the hands of Iron Man to make the "shooting" sound that it does it in the movie. For the Spartans I need to add sounds to the guns. That sorta thing.

Thanks!

 

[thatdecade]

No, an arduino is the wrong way to go about adding sound. They do sell sound shields for the arduino, but like you said it is too expensive. Arduino + sound shield can be bulky to add to a prop.
Adafruit Wave Shield for Arduino Kit - http://www.adafruit.com/products/94

A standalone audio solution is cheaper, but has reduced sound quality. What kind of sound effects did you want to have? Medium and high pitched soundfx works well with this inexpensive sound board (gun shots sound bad, laser fire sounds good). Is very slim sized. Sounds are reprogrammable via USB.
300 second USB recording module - http://www.electronics123.com/s.nl/it.A/id.3041/.f

Lastly, here is a standalone sound module with full sound quality. You gain the size advantage of standalone but is expensive again. The shop programs the sounds for you.
Replica Prop Sound Board Module - http://www.replicaprops.com/cart2/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=35

Make SURE you watch some YouTube videos on each solutions sound quality before making you decision.

 

[SilentCartographer]

Ok so this may be a bit ambitious but i would like some feedback to see if this is even plausible before i start. I was thinking about creating a Gungnir helmet. but heres where it could get cool. where the lens is on the front of the helmet, install a micro spy camera. then, utilizing the space inside the helmet created by the forward positioning of the face shield instead of a visor, either use a pico projector or an HMD (head mounted display) to create a HUD on the inside that allows you to see. Foreseeable problems: 1) wiring. i would have to deal with the bulk of AV connectors. 2) room for projector. will there be enough? how small a pico projector can i get in there w/o breaking the bank. 3) angle. most picos are meant to project straight on right? is there a way to adjust the picture inside? 5) projection screen. 6) what do i connect to what? can i connect the camera straight to the projector? i have seen some tiny dash cams that have a 2" LCD right under the cam. i could see this theoretically working, if i manipulate the inside enough.

so, any thoughts? advice?

 

[higdog827]

Ok so this may be a bit ambitious but i would like some feedback to see if this is even plausible before i start. I was thinking about creating a Gungnir helmet. but heres where it could get cool. where the lens is on the front of the helmet, install a micro spy camera. then, utilizing the space inside the helmet created by the forward positioning of the face shield instead of a visor, either use a pico projector or an HMD (head mounted display) to create a HUD on the inside that allows you to see. Foreseeable problems: 1) wiring. i would have to deal with the bulk of AV connectors. 2) room for projector. will there be enough? how small a pico projector can i get in there w/o breaking the bank. 3) angle. most picos are meant to project straight on right? is there a way to adjust the picture inside? 5) projection screen. 6) what do i connect to what? can i connect the camera straight to the projector? i have seen some tiny dash cams that have a 2" LCD right under the cam. i could see this theoretically working, if i manipulate the inside enough.

so, any thoughts? advice?

Some people have thought about doing gungnirs before, and as far as I know, none really got too far. I think a few people wanted to put Ipod screeens and stuff in, but the problem is, its tough to try and focus on a screen that close to your face. It just hurts your eyes and isnt very practical. It might be possible, but it would really suck to get all kinds of expensive electronics and just end up not being able to do anything with them. Thats just my take on it, go ahead and do what you want, just be careful.

 

[SilentCartographer]

I thought about that, which is why something like this might work:

http://www.google.com/products/cata...s6OJfKs0AHwjb2IDA&ved=0CJ8BEPMCMAY#ps-sellers

only thing is that I would have to install the camera, then connect it to another device then to the glasses. But then it starts getting pricey. But for a build like this, especially if its the first of its kind, it might be worth it. question is, what 3rd device could i use?

 

[higdog827]

I thought about that, which is why something like this might work:

http://www.google.com/products/cata...s6OJfKs0AHwjb2IDA&ved=0CJ8BEPMCMAY#ps-sellers

only thing is that I would have to install the camera, then connect it to another device then to the glasses. But then it starts getting pricey. But for a build like this, especially if its the first of its kind, it might be worth it. question is, what 3rd device could i use?

Dont get me wrong, its a really cool idea and it would be awesome to see it work, but you really have to think about it from a monetary standpoint: youll need at least $25 for resin. Another $15 for bondo. Say $10 for paint. thats just for your standard run-of-the-mill helmet. Now you have to add the electronics. Lets say maybe $30 for a good tiny camera (I think, my knoledge of spy cameras probably isnt up to par), then $120 for your display goggles. Then probably another $20 for whatever 3rd device you choose. Now this is just a ballpark estimate, but youre looking at around $220+ just for this helmet, let alone an entire suit, and theres not even a garuntee that it will even work. Can these goggles accomadate live feed? Im not trying to shoot you down, you just have to be careful with these kinds of things. Good luck with whatever you choose to do though!

 

[thatdecade]

Yes, the video goggles will work fine and should come with an AV input to connect the camera. Check out this similar guide:
Viewing Myself in 3rd Person


Edit: I actually have a pair of those glasses. Pretty useless for a 1st person rig, you loose your peripheral making simple walking hard.

 

[Pack hunter]

ok so i want to put an internal mic in my helmet but i want to run an external speaker to my chest piece so i have more room in my helmet for my large noggin, what type of mic and speakers should i get and how should i install them.... i'm using jorge's chest piece so i will be making the backpack for it would it be easier to run all my electrical stuff to the backpack and hook it all up to one battery. or should i use more then one???

i also have a mini flashlight i was gonna use in one of the helmet attachments, i do have a way of zeroing (lining up)the flashlight to my direct line of sight... getting back to my question i've ssen laser pointers on guns with like a push pad for an on/off switch where would i get something like that and how would i go about running that into the flash light???

why didn't i pay attention in electronics

 

[thatdecade]

Not sure about the headset and speaker amp. Whatever you have available would probably work.

Adding an on off switch to a flashflight is simple enough. Can use some left over card stock and some wires to break the battery connection, then the new switch is in control.


flashlight switch by thatdecade, on Flickr

 

[fury101]

Little help with LED's

Hi all

Hope somebody can help me.

I have purchased 50 Blue flat topped 10mm LEDS from Ebay (only need 4 but they come in packs of 50) and want to know the best way of powering them.

I am only using 4 LEDS for my MK VI helmet. The LEDS run at 3.5V each.
They will be wired up in two pairs.
Im thinking of using two 9V batteries (one for each pair) but i need to know which resistor to use to step down the voltage to 7V (2 x 3.5V)

Im not sure if im making sense but if anyone can manage to decode my ramblings please help.

 

[ventrue]

I am only using 4 LEDS for my MK VI helmet. The LEDS run at 3.5V each.
They will be wired up in two pairs.
Im thinking of using two 9V batteries (one for each pair) but i need to know which resistor to use to step down the voltage to 7V (2 x 3.5V)

Each row of two LEDs will need their own resistor of U=RI => R=U/I=(9V-7V)/I=2V/I. That's as far as I can solve it for you, because you didn't specify which current the LEDs are rated for. With a current of 20 mA, you'd need 2V/0,02A=100 Ohm for example.

 

[fury101]

no clue as to ampage, guess i will have to wait till they arrive and hope they have a data sheet. thanks for trying tho

 

[thatdecade]

Yep, LEDs are diodes and have a specific voltage drop. Adding any resistor will drop the voltage to exactly what the led needs, with the extra voltage dropping across the resistor.

Current is more important. 100 is probably the lowest I would go per LED, that's 55 to 90mA on your LED. They would be be very bright and short lived with a 9V battery.

A 500 ohm resistor will give you a much more reasonable 11 to 18mA, not dim, not blinding bright, and the LEDs should last for thousands of hours.

Edit: missed the part about two LEDs in series. Follow ventrue's advice.

 

[NewAgeSith]

Hey guys.
First i'd like to say that the armor/helmet builds on this forum are amazing. I can't wait to get started on my own project.

But first the research bit. I wanted to start off with an iron man helmet with led's in the eyes and a motorised faceplate. thanks to this thread i've got a good idea on how to install the led's, but i have no idea where to start with the plate. I have no programming experience. So my question is this:

Can anyone tell me how I would go about mounting the hinges, what program I would need to program the plate and what chip would suit the mechanism (bearing in mind i have no programming experience). Thanks, and to all builders, keep up the amazing work

 

[thatdecade]

Should probably take a look at the builds on therpf to see how they are doing the open faceplate.

For no experience programming, I highly recommend the arduino platform, it is straightforward to learn and has a large friendly community to help you.

 

[Vigilnt sniper]

im looking for a reliable circuit design for a simple two led helmet light system. if you can draw up a schematic for me i would greatly apreciate it. i am horible with electronics.

 

[Ricardo D]

Hey guys, Hope someoen can help me.
I saw some videos Where the person had an Iron Man costume and there was a automatic faceplate. It opens and closes with a little motor inside the helmet.
What kind of motor is this?? Disk driver?? And the face pate mae 2 moviments, UP > Back opening and Front > down to close.

Tks.

 

[ventrue]

I saw some videos Where the person had an Iron Man costume and there was a automatic faceplate. It opens and closes with a little motor inside the helmet.
What kind of motor is this??

A servo would work best.

 

[Satchmo III]

im looking for a reliable circuit design for a simple two led helmet light system. if you can draw up a schematic for me i would greatly apreciate it. i am horible with electronics.

I like this design. The components shown from top to bottom include: voltage source (battery), switch, resistors, and diodes (LED).

If each diode/resistor is wired in parallel (as shown) then should one light fail, the other will still operate (and you'll be able to more easily repair the circuit since you'll know with which diode/resistor set the failure occurred).