"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
- Thread starter 23Magnum
- Start date
- Status
would you have to harden each piece individually first? How would you make the pieces one after they have been hardened? or would you just pep them together (like just have it all cardstock and glued together so its one piece) then harden it? it seems to me though that if you did it that way one piece wouldnt get glassed.
Edit: I think i answered my own question haha! However how many layers of fiberglass cloth should you put on a piece to strengthen it?
Really there's no one right answer. Some people will build attachments seperately, and then glue or magnetize or screw or something else them on, others will build them and glue the pep on and then harden it together, others will find files made with the attachments already on (more common with helmets than other parts).
I personally think making the base armor first, and bondoing and hardening it. Then making the attachments but test fitting them throughout to make sure they're good. This way you make sure the entire thing is hardened and there are no air pockets.
Two is the minimum for fiberglass. I personally go with a layer of rondo, then two layers of fiberglass, so that you can sand the armor without cutting up the fiberglass (since the rondo is between the pepakura and the fiberglass, it will be what you sand through)
I personally think making the base armor first, and bondoing and hardening it. Then making the attachments but test fitting them throughout to make sure they're good. This way you make sure the entire thing is hardened and there are no air pockets.
Two is the minimum for fiberglass. I personally go with a layer of rondo, then two layers of fiberglass, so that you can sand the armor without cutting up the fiberglass (since the rondo is between the pepakura and the fiberglass, it will be what you sand through)
GallopingConch
New Member
Hey guys, I'm looking into doing the whole armor thing, but have some safety concerns that need addressing before I can even consider glassing things. I think I've got the general idea down of "for my OWN safety" (Latex gloves, good respirator, goggles, etc.) What worries me is that I currently have two younger brothers, and a nephew living with me.
I'd most likely be working in my garage, with the main door open to the driveway. I shouldn't have too much difficulty keeping them away while I'm trying to work, but I'm finding myself fretting over the idea of lingering fumes.
How long afterwards would the toxic stuff be floating after I had finished a piece? Would I need to basically quarantine my garage for the duration of the project, or just keep people away while actually working directly with resin?
I really need to know this kind of thing, cause if it won't be safe for my family there's no way I'm gonna be able to go for it. Of course I could be blowing the meaning of "toxic" way out of proportion, but it IS the word toxic.
I'd most likely be working in my garage, with the main door open to the driveway. I shouldn't have too much difficulty keeping them away while I'm trying to work, but I'm finding myself fretting over the idea of lingering fumes.
How long afterwards would the toxic stuff be floating after I had finished a piece? Would I need to basically quarantine my garage for the duration of the project, or just keep people away while actually working directly with resin?
I really need to know this kind of thing, cause if it won't be safe for my family there's no way I'm gonna be able to go for it. Of course I could be blowing the meaning of "toxic" way out of proportion, but it IS the word toxic.
The toxic fumes shouldn't last for more than an hour or two but the smell will last fore a few hours past that, but it's just the smell. You can cut these times down by having a good fan at the door to your garage blowing outside, that will suck the fumes and smell outside.
GallopingConch
New Member
Ok, but it shouldn't be something that would last more than a few hours? So like, if I worked a lot at night, it'd be fine by morning?
Man, I feel like a protective dad...
Man, I feel like a protective dad...
GallopingConch
New Member
Alright. now if I can convince my parents to let me USE the garage, I might have something to show for this conversation in the future. I'll be sure to post something if I ever make any progress. Spent tonight getting ready to do some hardcore pepping.
Thanks a bunch for answering my questions. You've given me hope for this project.
EDIT: I think I might have broken this post...
EDIT2: Nope, guess not. It initially looked like the whole post went under a "tags" section. Never mind. Man I haven't done foruming in a while...
Thanks a bunch for answering my questions. You've given me hope for this project.
EDIT: I think I might have broken this post...
EDIT2: Nope, guess not. It initially looked like the whole post went under a "tags" section. Never mind. Man I haven't done foruming in a while...
A mixture of resin, bondo, and their hardeners. people do either 75% bondo 25% resin, or 50/50 for a really watery one.
Rondo is used for hardening the inside quickly. It is poured in and sloshed around. It coats the inside like a paint. It's fast and easy, and fills in cracks fiberglass misses, but is not as strong as fiberglass, and a LOT heavier. So they're trade-offs.
Ok. Great thanks!
If i understand your question correctly. You will want to do the mixture of resin and hardener like you would for putting resin on the outside. The reason for putting fiberglass cloth down is to make a structural support to make the armor piece rigid so it can handle the bondo you will be putting on afterwards. The reason you will still need the hardener is because it is a catalyst for the resin. without it there would be no chemical reaction between it and the actual resin itself. So you would end up with some very sloppy and oozy mess inside your helmet
Edit: How Would you go about doing foamies? I am working on my ODST shoulders and i dont know if i should resin them with the foamies attached already or if i should resin the shoulder then attach the foamie?
dude i dont know but for more support id resit it with them attatached....but might end up making the nice foam look a little sloppy. maybe attatch them later man. i am no pro this is my first build. hard trying to get actually comment and feedback bro. i posted my build 2 days ago and old have 4 replies... and 2 were mine.
Not to rag on you, but part of the problem is that it is pretty hard to read what you are saying. One word of warning: Foam and fiberglass do not play nicely from what I've read. You don't have anything really to gain from foam in pepakura, as once you're dedicated to resins, more other kinds of resins is usually the answer. In this case you'd want to do controlled rondo buildups, which involves making a box in the shape you want to create, and filling it with rondo.
The steps to proper fiberglassing are to mix resin and hardener in a cup, then lay fiberglass mat inside the helmet, then paint resin over the fiberglass to make it stick to the inside.
For some good resources on advanced bondo and resin techniques (no fiberglass, but I'd gladly do my best to help you) you should check out Cereal's videos:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...-Chief-**-A-Step-By-Step-Tutorial-(My-Way)-**
Reclaimer S117
New Member
Hey guys I have a question, what is the difference between body filler and bondo? There are two different products on store and I'm guessing bondo is the right choice but I noticed it was more expensive than the filler.
Bondo is a company that specializes in a variety of automotive repair products. They make fiberglass resin, as well as body filler.
Bondo Body Filler is the prefered product of American 405ths for smoothing the outside of the armor.
The "body filler" you refer to is probably a generic brand version. You could give it a try and it may be the exact same, but bondo brand body filler is tried and true if you prefer a safe bet.
Bondo Body Filler is the prefered product of American 405ths for smoothing the outside of the armor.
The "body filler" you refer to is probably a generic brand version. You could give it a try and it may be the exact same, but bondo brand body filler is tried and true if you prefer a safe bet.
Reclaimer S117
New Member
I see well thanks Katsu for the fast answer I'll go for the cheaper bondo body filler which is exactly the one on the picture, I'm not sure why do they have another product with a higher price but anyways I hope to master the ways of the bondoing!
- Status
