TheReconSpartan
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2,000th reply! hahaha
"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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Reclaimer S117
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I noticed too, lol 
Skullptura
Member
Just a curious question, Ive been using the matt that comes in the generalised fibreglass repair kits. But Ive noticed that a few people, (from pictures they have posted), have been using the fibreglass ribbon. Is there any particular difference not just in structural difference but quality as well? The Fallout suit (T51-B) that im making is going to be used in a short doco type film in my home town and it needs to be sturdy.
I've never heard of someone using fiberglass ribbon for making their armor sturdy. There are 2 main types of fiberglass, mat and cloth. Mat is chopped strands of fiberglass held together with a glue that dissolves when it gets resin'd. Cloth is woven fiberglass strands. The structural integrity of the armor is based on the length and orientation of the fiberglass strands, so mat provides lots of orientation, but short length, cloth provides long length but only 2 orientations (unless you get fancy woven mat, but there's no reason to ever buy that for the price they charge for it). If you have a large piece you want to be stable, use cloth. If you want to add generic "drop and tumble" strength to something, or if it's a small piece, you can use mat.
It should be noted that mat is a lot more dangerous to work with than cloth, as mat flakes and can be inhaled a lot more easily. But it hugs corners a lot nicer than cloth since it's more flexible.
Both of them are great at taking drops, I've made helmets with both and none of them have suffered damage once sufficient layers of fiberglass were applied. Rondo is the one that cracks if you look at it too hard.
Both of them are great at taking drops, I've made helmets with both and none of them have suffered damage once sufficient layers of fiberglass were applied. Rondo is the one that cracks if you look at it too hard.
hey i dont know if anyone one will read this but im almost at the body filler stage and i wanna know how do i detail my helmet. when i say detail i mean lines and ect. i am mkaing a recon helmet halo reach style and i want to get alll those lines that are in the atcuall helmet. i just need to know how to go about this exactly?
Use a rotary tool to carve them after carefully measuring them out.
Watch these videos for a good tutorial on detailing:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...-Chief-**-A-Step-By-Step-Tutorial-(My-Way)-**
Watch these videos for a good tutorial on detailing:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...-Chief-**-A-Step-By-Step-Tutorial-(My-Way)-**
Mr Headshot01
New Member
Just curious but when it comes with the visor. Would you cut it out before you fiberglass the interior or after?
Reclaimer S117
New Member
Yes I've seen the "gold" bondo brand as well. Also I was planning for the fiberglass step to do 2 layers both outside and inside of the pep and then 2 layers with cloth on the inside. What do you think does it sound solid rock or is it too much?
Reclaimer S117
New Member
Nope, the outside will only be resined out, without the fiberglass. It would be a total mess if I use fiberglass cloth or math on the outside.
Reclaimer S117
New Member
Sorry, I meant resin 2 layers both outside and inside, and then inside of the pep 2 layers with cloth.
In that case, that's close to what I do on most of my pieces. I resin the outside so that it's sturdy enough to remove any support struts holding the piece in shape. Then I do a thin (1/8") coating of rondo on the inside, just in case I need to cut/sand a little bit through the cardstock, then 2 layers of fiberglass. I did more than 2 layers of fiberglass on my chest piece because it has so many large flat areas that don't reinforce easily.
Reclaimer S117
New Member
I see, the rondo part sounds useful really and then fiberglass to hold everything tight and reinforcing. Seems to me like a good build.
Rondo is great as a buffer, and it serves a much more sinister purpose.
Fiberglass can bubble and peel around sharp corners or overly detailed areas (like pepped screw holes and such), and these can collapse if pressure is applied from the outside, even through bondo. By pouring rondo inside the piece, you smooth out those corners and holes, and smooth the inside so it's more like the broad, flat surface fiberglass likes. The downside of rondo is that it is brittle and crack prone, so a few layers of fiberglass layed on it will reinforce it to help make it more resilient against drops.
Fiberglass can bubble and peel around sharp corners or overly detailed areas (like pepped screw holes and such), and these can collapse if pressure is applied from the outside, even through bondo. By pouring rondo inside the piece, you smooth out those corners and holes, and smooth the inside so it's more like the broad, flat surface fiberglass likes. The downside of rondo is that it is brittle and crack prone, so a few layers of fiberglass layed on it will reinforce it to help make it more resilient against drops.
Skullptura
Member
Katsu is quite right. With my fallout 3 helmet (wip), I put filler in the side sections the inner top part and a coat of filler in the front pipe attachments then fibreglassed the whole inside of the helmet in one go. Worked like a charm.
Hi 405th! I recently finished pepping my Mk VI helmet by ROBOGENESIS after my fourth try, and it looks great! I'm ready to move onto resining, but I don't have a respirator. My parents are very nervous about me using resin, and wont let me continue if I find out if using cotton face masks (like the ones a surgeon would wear) would be safe enough. Also, is there ANYTHING, and I mean ANYTHING, I need to do to my helmet before putting the resin on? I don't want to mess this up. Thanks!
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