The idea is that the thin layer of resin on the outside will stiffen it enough that you can then slap it on the inside ( with your matting ) Once the inside dries you can then bondo the outside. Struts supports and pepping with the visor intact will help stop warping, but the amount by which it WILL warp is a number of things, how thick your resin is how much you put on in one place, If you've got large open faces etc etc. Small warps are okay, as you can use the bondo stage to correct any errors. It's very much a trial and error thing to find what works for you. even the paper density is a factor as it determines how quickly the paper will soak the resin up.
West System Epoxy
yah i read about rondo.. but i can't do it on whole helm like for ironman because of it's weight... so probly i'll go rondo for the horn..
31-005 General Purpose- Rigid( because it goes hard) Orthophthalic ( chemically combined, Med. Reactive(means it'll set or cure in a medium amount of time) Common sense really. The two below that one would also be suitable, but I wouldn't try using fast set resin for your first go. Remember a LIGHT coat on the outside before then using Fibreglass mat as well as resin on the inside. And yes you can use rondo for the whole thing but it makes it very heavy and brittle. One drop and there'll be a great dirty hole in it.
As that's a gel. And I've not used Gel before I would ask them if there are any differing mixing instructions. ( Coz it's a two part mix) All resin needs a hardener unless specifically stated that it doesn't, which isn't many. (that's that two part bit, sometimes called catalyst or activator)
Happy to help. Feel free to PM me any other query's.
Automotive body filler Is pretty much the same stuff "Bondo" is the brand name. I use P38 and P40 Fibreglass bodyfiller And it does the job wonderfully.
