Skullptura
Member
I'm a little confused relaxis. Resin shouldn't melt under heat. The opposite is supposed to happen. Hmmm.although I must admit, I've never heard of that type of resin before.
"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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relaxis
New Member
http://www.motip.nl/?page=23&id=931&lang=EN
I used an old red light incubator heat lamp to do it, the whole thing just ran like molasses.
From what I can see, the hardener is made of Dienzoyl Peroxide, not MEKP.
Carpathia
Sr Member
Maybe try an incandescent light bulb in the future. Polyester resin does not need an excessive amount of heat to cure properly, it only needs to be upwards of 50 to 60 degrees F (40 degrees F at a minimum according to the product information), then it generates its own heat (that is the purpose of the hardener). Like anything, if too much heat is added, it will react poorly. I'm also not surprised that the hot glue gave under that lamp as well for obvious reasons. I'm honestly surprised that more peps that are put together with hot glue don't come apart during the resin stage.
However, I have never heard of the type of resin you are using and do not know for sure what its properties are. So, everything I just said might be wrong for this particular product.
However, I have never heard of the type of resin you are using and do not know for sure what its properties are. So, everything I just said might be wrong for this particular product.
Carpathia
Sr Member
I would usually assume so too, but you can't be sure without comparing how each company manufactures their products. There is almost always a way to produce something cheaper, and quality is sacrificed as a result (which is why a lot of people buy name brand items rather than the similar knock-offs).
Jason 078
Well-Known Member
If it is anything like bondo, then you don't need much at all. Bondo comes white and has a red hardener. All you need is a very small amount. When mixed together, it should be a very light pink. Anything more and it will harden too quickly and might become brittle when sanded.
Sanding casted resin plastic?
It depends how big it is. Most of the work I've done in PU Resin was pretty small, so sanding could be done on some spread out newspapers or in a box (I have a ghetto fume hood made out of two boxes taped together) If you are working with something bigger than an action figure, or need to do a LOT of sanding, then it's a question of your own care. The stuff is safe to touch once it's cured (Not sure about it being food safe though), so if you are sanding in a kitchen you may want to take precautions, but if in a garage it won't really be getting into any food.
It depends how big it is. Most of the work I've done in PU Resin was pretty small, so sanding could be done on some spread out newspapers or in a box (I have a ghetto fume hood made out of two boxes taped together) If you are working with something bigger than an action figure, or need to do a LOT of sanding, then it's a question of your own care. The stuff is safe to touch once it's cured (Not sure about it being food safe though), so if you are sanding in a kitchen you may want to take precautions, but if in a garage it won't really be getting into any food.
LifeExpectancy
New Member
Ok so I'm new to the forums and this is my second-ever post. I've read all the faqs and used the search function and haven't found the answer so I'm asking here in the hopes that this is the right section.
I've never worked with fiberglass, resin, or bondo before. I'm planning on doing a full-on Mark VI (VII? Halo 4 Master Chief) build after grinding my teeth on some smaller projects such as the wrist guards from the suit, via trial and error to learn techniques for pepping, fiberglass, resin, and bondo.
My question is this: Is it safe to do this indoors with the door closed for the rest of the household? Our garage is used for our cars, so using the garage for this project isn't an option. Before I invest a few hundred dollars in supplies, I want to make sure I can do it in our 'hobby room' with the door closed and the windows open. I'm sure it's safe for me, provided of course I'm wearing the appropriate respirator, but I'm concerned the fumes might leak around the edges of the door and harm my wife. Some minor leakage is unavoidable, but short of getting foam padding or weather stripping and attempting to "seal" the door each time I enter the room, I don't see any way to avoid it.
Has anyone here done resin/bondo/fiberglass work inside their house that can tell me how big a problem fume leakage might be?
I've never worked with fiberglass, resin, or bondo before. I'm planning on doing a full-on Mark VI (VII? Halo 4 Master Chief) build after grinding my teeth on some smaller projects such as the wrist guards from the suit, via trial and error to learn techniques for pepping, fiberglass, resin, and bondo.
My question is this: Is it safe to do this indoors with the door closed for the rest of the household? Our garage is used for our cars, so using the garage for this project isn't an option. Before I invest a few hundred dollars in supplies, I want to make sure I can do it in our 'hobby room' with the door closed and the windows open. I'm sure it's safe for me, provided of course I'm wearing the appropriate respirator, but I'm concerned the fumes might leak around the edges of the door and harm my wife. Some minor leakage is unavoidable, but short of getting foam padding or weather stripping and attempting to "seal" the door each time I enter the room, I don't see any way to avoid it.
Has anyone here done resin/bondo/fiberglass work inside their house that can tell me how big a problem fume leakage might be?
If you are going to work indoors then I suggest that in addition to open windows, get a big fan to help air out the room. Since the windows are the only opening, a proper breeze won't go through the room, so the fumes won't exit as much as you want. A fan can create a fake breeze that pushes these fumes out the windows.
To avoid the fumes from leaking into the house, I suggest leave those windows open all the time and the fan on. Try not to open the door or doors in the room that lead to other parts of the house, only enter and exit when necisarry. If the temperature outside is hotter or colder than the temp in the room, then you need to watch and make sure you don't rack up your electricity bill from the house trying to stabilize the temp in that room. Perhaps turn off the AC for the time you are in the room? I don't fully understand how the AC works, but I just wanna caution you.
~Sam
To avoid the fumes from leaking into the house, I suggest leave those windows open all the time and the fan on. Try not to open the door or doors in the room that lead to other parts of the house, only enter and exit when necisarry. If the temperature outside is hotter or colder than the temp in the room, then you need to watch and make sure you don't rack up your electricity bill from the house trying to stabilize the temp in that room. Perhaps turn off the AC for the time you are in the room? I don't fully understand how the AC works, but I just wanna caution you.
~Sam
Now here's my question: I have put a layer of rondo in my helmet, a layer of resin on the outside, and half of the outside has been bondoed and smoothed to my liking. Do I go ahead and spray paint a layer of primer on those areas, or is there another step before that? And for the paint job in the end, what steps do I take? I have heard so many different techniques but I don't know which one would be the best. Thanks for your help!!
~Sam
~Sam
relaxis
New Member
No, it's not putty, it's resin. It's amber in colour.
Carpathia
Sr Member
If you plan on using resin and bondo, DO NOT do it indoors. While as you mentioned you will be fine due to safety equipment, the smell and fumes WILL permeate the rest of the house, for a good amount of time too. This is something that needs to be done either outside, or a sealed room with a good exhaust system. Before I moved, I would often work in the garage, I just backed out one of the cars while I worked. Although, I don't recommend sanding bondo in your garage, the dust will get everywhere (even worse indoors).
If the exterior is bondoed to your liking, then by all means, I suggest hitting the helmet with a coat of primer. That will bring out the minor imperfections that you may have missed. Just remember, before you start to work on the smaller imperfections, let the primer dry overnight, then sand down the areas you plan on working on. Bondo does not stick very well to primer, and you will need to sand it down a bit, but in order to do that, the primer must be fully dry (hence the overnight drying).
The bottom line is that while there are many different methods to complete a helmet, there is no one way that is best for everyone. You have to experiment and try different methods out to figure out what works best for YOU. In the end, that's all that matters.
Aye, gotcha. I'll probably just play it safe; I'm used to having to take precautions working with the other fiberglass stuff due to those particles
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