"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

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If im correct fiberglass matting does not interact chemicaly with the resin...
Yup, you're correct. The resin gets into the fiberglass and around it. When the resin hardens, it hardens between and around the strong fibers, thus making them harder and stronger. It doesn't really make the resin stronger, it just makes it more difficult to warp and break since the fiberglass is stuck in the resin. It is similar to the use of rebar in concrete.
 
I got a question guys. How would you go about fiberglassing the inside of a halo weapon? See, fiberglassing the inside of armor is one thing because the inside is exposed. But with a weapon, all you see once it's put together is the outside. So any suggestions on how to make the inside of a pepakura halo weapon hard and sturdy? Cause I can't really seem to figure it out.
 
You would have either split it down the center, fiberglass the two of them, trim them, flat sand them, and then glue them back together. Or make it, and mold it without fiberglassing it. Then cast them in two halves out of fiberglass. Or, sandwich the molds together, slush cast some resin and fill it with a rigid foam.
 
As stated above. Or you could just slush cast with a fibre filled bondo, then fill in with the spray foam. Any of these will work...you just need to decide what is best for you. Hope this helps, and let us know how it works out.





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Yeah my wife and I were thinking the exact same thing. As in splitting the weapon in half, fiberglassing the inside, and then gluing it back together again. I appreciate the advice guys. I'll be sure to try to put up a thread here with my progress on it when I get a chance.
 
hello 405th,
I've bought a resin and a elmers wood filler.
can I go with a crystal resin and a wood filler?

Not sure what the crystal resin is. But wood filler is ok. I wouldn't use it for the final product because it's too soft in my opinion, but I think it would be ok for the one-off that is to be molded.
 
Yeah my wife and I were thinking the exact same thing. As in splitting the weapon in half, fiberglassing the inside, and then gluing it back together again. I appreciate the advice guys. I'll be sure to try to put up a thread here with my progress on it when I get a chance.

I'd avoid splitting it if possible as the chances of them not matching up well is very high. For my AR I did a few coats of resin on the exterior, then slush cast it with Rondo, and filled it with Foam. It's not iron clad like a fiberglass piece is, but once you jet it with expanding foam it'll withstand damage pretty well.
 
All depends on what it is really. I wouldn't fill anything that doesn't have any support around it with expanding foam. I strictly use expanding foam in molds, since the mold support jacket keeps it from bulging or cracking. As long as you give your prop a decent coat of resin, splitting it and joining it back up wont be an issue at all. However, I would just bite the bullet and mold it, since I hate the thought of having to start over from scratch if anything happens to my stuff at cons.
 
Hi, I am Switches, and this is my first time with fiberglass resin and bondo. I am from Canada and Home Depot didn't have all the stuff I needed. It seems like I need to go to Canadian Tire to get the resin and bondo.

There are tons of bondo products. Which one should I get? Can I get the cheapest one? Here is the CanTire Link: http://www.canadiantire.ca/home.jsp?site=WebStore

Do I have to buy bondo anyways? Why do I need bondo for? Can I simply use Fiberglass Resin just to harden my papercraft models? Can I simply paint over a fiberglassed model?

Is this respirator good enough: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/3m-sanding-and-fiberglass-insulation-respirator-2-pack/908085

Also, it's currently cold out. Do I have to do fiberglassing when the weather is warm? How warm does the weather have to be?

How much fiberglass cloth do I need. I need it to make three ak47 magazines, one ak47 1:1 scale model, and one Metro 2033 Ranger Helmet.
Here is a link to the fiberglass cloth: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/bondo-fiberglass-cloth/935046
How many of those do I need?

Can I have a 405th approved video for mixing/applying fiberglass/body filler for helmets and weapon props?

I have cardstock, safety goggles, rubber gloves, hobby knife, sand paper, hot glue gun, Popsicle sticks, and paintbrush.

What kind of paint do I need to get? Is regular acrylic paint good enough?

Is this acetone good enough: http://www.homedepot.ca/product/acetone-946-ml/912202

Do I need a "DREMEL MULTIPRO MODEL 395 WITH CASE AND ACCESSORIES"? I'm scared... I need such dangerous tools? I don't want to chop off my fingers. D:

I read this list: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/14613-Complete-Noob-List

Please and thank you. I am in the 405th's care for my project. You can see my project thread by clicking this link: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/39275-Metro-2033-Ranger-Project?p=656563#post656563

Please support my project, thanks. :)
 
Hiya I just pepped my first Helm, and going to resin and rondo in the next few days. I just have a few concerns.

1: in some of the tutorial videos I've watched some of they guys warn of resin not curing fully in cold temps, as at the moment in uk it's a bit snowy. Should I hold off till it gets not so cold, or can I help it along with a heater or something?

2: I've seen some tutorials where it's suggested I resin in sections to avoid warping. I understand why that is for big chest pieces, but should I practice this on smaller pieces aswell like helms, shoulder...etc?
 
Yes and Yes...
Use a heater, capture the heat inside a cardboard box or whatever you can find. Just find a box big enough to use for whatever you are modeling. Use a heat source, portable heat lamp, space heater..etc..
Using resin in small areas on you builds is a wise move..yeah it can warp your model if you resin all at once. Take your time with the first coat of resin and do small patches.
 
Hi, after watching this tutorial here, the instructor (stealth) suggests a product called EpoxAmite 101 as an alternative to fiberglass resin. At the end of the video he suggests hardening the inside of the helmet with fiberglass cloth. I have a few questions about this:

1. Is it safe (The Epoxamaite) (will I need to go outside with a respirator)? I trust his word but a second opinion is always welcome

2. Regardless whether this product or polyester fibreglass resin, would I still have to strengthen the inside with fiberglass? (again to make sure I don't have to go outside or with a respirator)

3. Will bondo be a hazard as well? (this one has probably been asked alot and I apologize for that).

4. I've heard of a hot glue method are the results any better/worse?

5. are there any alternatives to bondo (less toxic)? (again this one has probably been asked alot and I apologize ).

The reason being I live in close proximity to wild animals (squirrels) and my neighbors and I'd rather not have them at risk.

Sorry for all these questions, and I really appreciate any answers!
 
Hi, after watching this tutorial here, the instructor (stealth) suggests a product called EpoxAmite 101 as an alternative to fiberglass resin. At the end of the video he suggests hardening the inside of the helmet with fiberglass cloth. I have a few questions about this:

1. Is it safe (The Epoxamaite) (will I need to go outside with a respirator)? I trust his word but a second opinion is always welcome

2. Regardless whether this product or polyester fibreglass resin, would I still have to strengthen the inside with fiberglass? (again to make sure I don't have to go outside or with a respirator)

3. Will bondo be a hazard as well? (this one has probably been asked alot and I apologize for that).

4. I've heard of a hot glue method are the results any better/worse?

5. are there any alternatives to bondo (less toxic)? (again this one has probably been asked alot and I apologize ).

The reason being I live in close proximity to wild animals (squirrels) and my neighbors and I'd rather not have them at risk.

Sorry for all these questions, and I really appreciate any answers!


Epoxamite, is a laminating resin made by smooth-on the MSDS can be viewed here www.smooth-on.com/msds/files/EPOXAMITE_102_COMP.pdf

I wouldn't use the hot glue method, since I've only seen it done once and result weren't what I would call stellar.

There's not really any strong alternatives for filler, wood filler is sometimes used, I've even seen people use dry wall compound, but I would never use either of them for a final product. If you're going to mold it, they should be fine though.

As long as you're not feeding the squirrels bondo or fiberglass. They'll be fine.
 
Epoxamite, is a laminating resin made by smooth-on the MSDS can be viewed here www.smooth-on.com/msds/files/EPOXAMITE_102_COMP.pdf

I wouldn't use the hot glue method, since I've only seen it done once and result weren't what I would call stellar.

There's not really any strong alternatives for filler, wood filler is sometimes used, I've even seen people use dry wall compound, but I would never use either of them for a final product. If you're going to mold it, they should be fine though.

As long as you're not feeding the squirrels bondo or fiberglass. They'll be fine.

Thanks!, I found out that the Walmart near my place sells fiberglass mat, resin and auto body filler for pretty cheap so, at least for convince sake I'll do that route, plus with what I save I can get all the safety gear and what not.
 
I got a method I call rondoglassing, make a batch of rondo (bondo and resgin) followed by the standard swishing once an even coat it on place in fiberglass. Allow to set, once set coat with resin2x. This is a clean, less mess way of doin all parts. A foam brush is a huge help
 
I got a method I call rondoglassing, make a batch of rondo (bondo and resgin) followed by the standard swishing once an even coat it on place in fiberglass. Allow to set, once set coat with resin2x. This is a clean, less mess way of doin all parts. A foam brush is a huge help

Wait, so you're placing the rondo in first and then while its 'wet' place in the fiberglass? Do you think that this could work for the 'brim' part of the MKV/MKVI helmets?
 
Typically before you do fiberglassing on anything that has any ridges or sharp edges, you do what is called a mud coat where you take your fiberglass resin, and mix it with cabosil or milled fibers, or micro balloons, they have many different names, and technically are all different, but they do the same thing. They thicken your fiberglass resin so you can brush in a coat. It does two things, one is making the whole thing a little bit thicker. The other, is making all your hard edges, somewhat rounded and makes it easier for your fiberglass to lay in all the nooks and crannies. Doing a coat of "rondo" before fiberglassing, is basically the same thing I just described. So yes, do your rondo, and then fiberglass. Just watch out because you may make it way thicker than you really want it to be.
 
I am working on the halo 4 recruit helmet. However its my first helmet I plan to finish (since all the others were too small) would fiber glass, resin or bondo help fill in some areas that have a small opening left by pieces no being fully connected? (they're not big holes just small openings) im hopeing i won't have to rebuild the helmet.
 
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