"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

[TheBeard]

Hi, after watching this tutorial here, the instructor (stealth) suggests a product called EpoxAmite 101 as an alternative to fiberglass resin. At the end of the video he suggests hardening the inside of the helmet with fiberglass cloth. I have a few questions about this:

1. Is it safe (The Epoxamaite) (will I need to go outside with a respirator)? I trust his word but a second opinion is always welcome

2. Regardless whether this product or polyester fibreglass resin, would I still have to strengthen the inside with fiberglass? (again to make sure I don't have to go outside or with a respirator)

3. Will bondo be a hazard as well? (this one has probably been asked alot and I apologize for that).

4. I've heard of a hot glue method are the results any better/worse?

5. are there any alternatives to bondo (less toxic)? (again this one has probably been asked alot and I apologize ).

The reason being I live in close proximity to wild animals (squirrels) and my neighbors and I'd rather not have them at risk.

Sorry for all these questions, and I really appreciate any answers!

Hello, I am from Canada(Calgary)and it's cold and snowy right now so regular fiberglass resin was out. After watching, "Theherotutorials" on youtube, I bought Epoxamite 101 and it works great. I used it in my basement with no respirator and it's awesome. Cured nice and rigid, soaked into the card and cloth really well. If your stuck indoors this stuff works great.

 

[zombieprops]

The MSDS says to wear a respirator, so I wouldn't go around telling everyone that you don't need one. In either case, even IF the resin didn't require a respirator, you should always use one when working with fiberglass. Almost all resins have a warning saying that it may cause irritation to your mucus membranes, Just because it doesn't smell bad, doesn't mean it's not damaging you or your families bodies.

 

[Scar405th]

agreed i would also do the chemical things in a well ventilated area and to wear an old pair of leather gloves and safety glasses and the reason for why the old leather gloves is because those this rubber medical gloves tend to deteriorate because of the resin and bondo

 

[Kangabox]

Not sure if this has been posted in the past, but has anyone used Sun Cure Fiberglass Sanding Resin?

http://www.amazon.com/Ding-All-Cure-Sanding-Resin/dp/B004BG0A6S

I'm pretty curious if this is usable at all for the resin process.

 

[zombieprops]

It's totally usable, it says it has an additive to help it cure. Typically with polyester fiberglass resin, a wax additive floats to the surface and seals the resin, so air can't get to it. A lot of people ask why their fiberglass is still a little sticky. Which comes from a resin with no wax. Now that being said, you don't want to use waxed resin for your first couple coats. Otherwise you need to sand it all down and clean it with acetone to remove the wax before adding the next layer. I personally wouldn't use the "Ding All Sun Cure Sanding Resin" because it's really expensive. there's 128 fluid ounces in a gallon. So that stuff works out to 158 bucks, before shipping. If you go to your local marine industrial supply store, you can get fiberglass resin for about 25-30 bucks a gallon. So you could afford to get a gallon of resin, and a small space heater, to be able to do your fiberglass in the colder temperatures.

 

[hobbitdude13]

Hey folks. I've been building my armor without bondo-ing the outer surface. (Side question, do you guys bondo or rondo the outer surface?) As a result, I think my armor looks sub-par compared to what I usually see here on the 405th.

I think this chest looks ok but not you know, showroom-quality. Do you guys think it is possible to bondo over the paint? That way when I decide to bondo the outer surface of my other pieces, the finish will match? Or should I bite the bullet and build another chest? I really need some guidance so any advice would be extremely helpful.

 

[Gilmortar]

I know it looks like I am a "noob" but I assure you, I have been in the prop community for years.

You COULD bondo directly on the paint, but I highly suggest you get yourself some 400 or higher grit sandpaper and go over the paint first...rough it up some and then apply the bondo. You'll get better results that way, and then once you have the bondo sanded down and where you want it, make sure to go over it with a high grit wetordry sand paper, of 1000 grit to really give the paint a good surface to adhere to, and a clean smooth surface for the paint to really gleam...

 

[hobbitdude13]

I know it looks like I am a "noob" but I assure you, I have been in the prop community for years.

You COULD bondo directly on the paint, but I highly suggest you get yourself some 400 or higher grit sandpaper and go over the paint first...rough it up some and then apply the bondo. You'll get better results that way, and then once you have the bondo sanded down and where you want it, make sure to go over it with a high grit wetordry sand paper, of 1000 grit to really give the paint a good surface to adhere to, and a clean smooth surface for the paint to really gleam...

Ok that gives me a little bit of hope. I am on a limited budget (but have plenty of bondo, 5 gallons worth), and I want to reuse whatever pieces I can. So, just plain bondo? Not rondo? I hate to sound retarded but I want this be as perfect as I can get it.

 

[zombieprops]

You can go straight bondo, Just sand your armor a bit like Gilmore of OK said. I like to cut my bondo a little with resin. Not enough to really call it rondo, but just enough to reduce air bubbles. Also get yourself some bondo spot glazing putty. You'll need that for the final touch ups.

 

[TheBeard]

Hello everyone, I would like to apologise for the carelessness of my earlier post. At the time of that post I had just recently bought and tried that particular product for the first time and was super excited about it. I have since then, done more research on it and started using the appropriete protective equipment. I hope I haven't misrepresented myself as a careless individual and I hope I haven't offended anyone. It was and is not my intent to post false information and hope that you can forgive my mistake.
Thank you

 

[BuildsByBaz]

Hello everyone, I would like to apologise for the carelessness of my earlier post. At the time of that post I had just recently bought and tried that particular product for the first time and was super excited about it. I have since then, done more research on it and started using the appropriete protective equipment. I hope I haven't misrepresented myself as a careless individual and I hope I haven't offended anyone. It was and is not my intent to post false information and hope that you can forgive my mistake.
Thank you

It takes a big person to admit fault. My respect to you man.

Baz.

 

[Leventel]

HEY 405th!
I am currently in the Bondo stage of my armour building, and I have a few questions relating to my project.

1) Do you bondo the entire helmet first, and then cut out the visor section (for installation) O R do you cut out the visor section, place stageholders so it doesnt fail or warp, and then bondo?

2) How do you add battle damage to the helmet? Like .. I was thinking of making a few nicks soo it looks like its been in a fight, however at what part do you do that? During bondo (when its semi-wet) or after it dries (using some kind of hard/sharp object)

And lastly ..

3) I fiberglassed my helmet earlier today (4pm-ish Feb 2nd), and was wondering if its alright to bondo it the next day? (seems like a silly question since everything is already dry.. just clarifying).

 

[hobbitdude13]

As long as its cured you can probably go ahead and bondo. I wouldn't cut out the visor hole until you've bondod it. That way there is zero chance of warping.

 

[zombieprops]

Yeah, cut out the visor after the bondo is done. Even though it's been resined, the heat from the bondo curing could warp it. Also, don't just go and bondo the whole thing. Do it in stages and that will help you keep the details without all the extra work.

 

[Leventel]

How do you cut out the visor section after its been bondo, resined, AND fiberglassed? 0.0 I feel that'll be the most strenuous part of the entire build

 

[hobbitdude13]

A Dremel tool with a cutting disc is what I use. If you have the money, go for the reinforced cutting wheels, they last longer.

 

[1337]

This question may have been asked before, but hear goes. My mom does not want me working with fiberglass resin because it stinks and is toxic. i heard that Aqua-glass resin is safer, but i live in Alabama and i can't find it. can you use Rustoleum leakseal spray rubber to seal the armor, and then bondo it? please help

Edit

Never mind. i just did a little more looking and found a guy in Atlanta that sells the Aqua Resin. i still have a question. when hardening my armor, do i need to add the fibers (the glass) to the liquid resin or can i just apply the liquid/powder mix as the hardener?:cool

 

[Leventel]

When fiberglassing the inside, you first 'wet' the area youre going to put the fiberglass on (just a small bit), next you place the fiberglass over the wet area, and then with a paintbrush, you dab the middle area of the fiberglass, leading outward til you reach the edges of the fiberglass.

I dont know if that answers your question =X

 

[zombieprops]

Back when I first started fiberglassing, I found this guys videos, they're pretty useful. You can fast forward to 1:17 because it covers waxing his mold and whatnot which you don't need to worry about. Even though it's a different application, the process is the same.

 

[Maverick Hunter]

It's not really resin, fiberglass, or bondo, but it's close enough I figured someone here might know. I recently picked up a pound of Apoxie sculpt. I was wondering, typically how far that gets in terms of space coverage (ie, how much space is it good for covering). I'm using it to texture a Skyrim Dragon Priest mask.