"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

[Katsu]

The issue is, though, that the higher side does not have much bondo on it at all... There is only a very thin layer of bondo on that bottom portion of the helmet, so nothing to really sand or dremel away. I could build up the other side with bondo, but as you said it would be subject to cracking if dropped later. I've never used rondo before, nor heard of it much at this point. From what I read you use bondo and mix in fiberglass resin? Must it be fiberglass resin because I still have some left over smooth-cast 321 from strengthening my pepped piece.

Much appreciated.

What you could do is pour rondo/bondo on the inside to build up the inside. Then cover that part with fiberglass to reinforce it. Then you can grind away the outside and have a good buffer zone to work with.

Rondo is a 50/50 bondo/resin or 75/25 mix. You can either add both hardners, or just the red one (I do both to be extra sure). You would have to box off the outer rim to make sure it doesn't leak out, but it's not too bad.

 

[Renraku]

Another trick to using "Rondo" is to use simple playing cards with hot a glue gun. The playing cards form your "Mold" since the Rondo/Bondo wont stick to the cards. I used this technique on my helmet to form complex shapes that would have otherwise been very difficult to get. Check out my build for details and pictures of what I am talking about.

Also straight bondo is chalky and hard to get smooth , so if you use the "Rondo" technique then you will do less sanding. Also when the Rondo is hardening you can curve it like clay to sculpt it, which saves you even more time. Just be careful not to cut off too much at one because it can tear a chunk off

Renraku

 

[Katsu]

Haha I was implying the card method, but they'd mentioned before having seen the Cereal videos that demonstrate it, so I didn't know if I should plug it again. It's a very good method that can be used to great results.

 

[RTWHOCKEY]

Alright, major resin problem. Over the last 3 months I've had 3 cans of resin and all 3 seem to contain resin that, no matter how much hardener I put in it, does not cure. The only way i can get it to cure is to blast it with a heat gun for a while and a lot of times that causes my resin to singe and catch on fire (not fun). And even when it doesn't catch fire, the fiberglass is very weak and often times still tacky. Perhaps it's the oddly high humidity I've been getting lately here in Arizona (30-40%), or maybe it's the insane 105 (F) heat, but my room is starting to get piled up with pep'd helmets I can't resin or fiberglass. Help??

 

[RobotChicken]

I'm guessing you weren't making a Johnny Storm costume...? jk

 

[Frankyboy440]

Thanks Vandoore and Katsu I'll go with the fine putty

 

[Katsu]

Alright, major resin problem. Over the last 3 months I've had 3 cans of resin and all 3 seem to contain resin that, no matter how much hardener I put in it, does not cure. The only way i can get it to cure is to blast it with a heat gun for a while and a lot of times that causes my resin to singe and catch on fire (not fun). And even when it doesn't catch fire, the fiberglass is very weak and often times still tacky. Perhaps it's the oddly high humidity I've been getting lately here in Arizona (30-40%), or maybe it's the insane 105 (F) heat, but my room is starting to get piled up with pep'd helmets I can't resin or fiberglass. Help??

Can you post a picture of the can of resin, and the bottle of hardener so we can verify you're using the right hardener for the type of resin you have?

 

[Acerix]

Can you post a picture of the can of resin, and the bottle of hardener so we can verify you're using the right hardener for the type of resin you have?

I use this aand

this for my hardeners. I find it all on eBay or at home depot.

 

[Carpathia]

I've had the same problem in the past. I find that if I shake up the resin can before use, it helps a little. It's possible that the resin has been sitting around for a while (whether on the shelf in the store or at your home or both) and everything settles after a time; so try shaking/stirring the resin up before pouring it out.

It could also be the humidity as you stated; in which case there's not much you can do but blast it with heat later on.

 

[RTWHOCKEY]

Can you post a picture of the can of resin, and the bottle of hardener so we can verify you're using the right hardener for the type of resin you have?

It's just the bondo brand resin and the hardener that comes with it.

I've had the same problem in the past. I find that if I shake up the resin can before use, it helps a little. It's possible that the resin has been sitting around for a while (whether on the shelf in the store or at your home or both) and everything settles after a time; so try shaking/stirring the resin up before pouring it out.

It could also be the humidity as you stated; in which case there's not much you can do but blast it with heat later on.

Thanks for the tips, I'll try shaking up my resin next time I use it.

Another thing I've found is that the resin cures just fine when mixed with bondo and made into rondo.

 

[Marty Falco]

Hey to anyone who can quickly answer this question, if you've happened to see Cereal Killer's armor build (one of the best helmets ever made on 405th), I'm trying to find out the differences/ pros and cons between Bondo and simple filler. He uses both but I can't tell the difference between the two and their different purposes. You can check out his entire thread here: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/36171-CEREAL-S-Spartan-Mk-VI-**Comprehensive-WIP**

There are multitudes of pictures in his thread and on his youtube channel, he uses lots of bondo AND filler. If anyone could help out that would be great. All I have is bondo currently and I'm working on a Belakor recon helmet if that adds any insight.

 

[Katsu]

By simple filler do you mean the bright red spot putty he uses, versus the bondo body filler?

If that's the case, the spot putty is used to fill little cuts made by coarse sanding, as well as the pock mark holes made by the curing bondo body filler. The bondo is used to fill in the large gaps made by the polygons.
A note on nomenclature: Bondo is a brand name, one of their products is a filler. When we say bondo on this site we usually refer to Bondo Automotive Body Filler. I know he uses Body Filler and Spot Putty, if there is another material he uses that I don't remember, you'll need to give me the page number it's used on, as that thread has a ton of pages..

 

[recon313]

guys are there's any way/ tutorial for bondoing small2 part.I'm kinda stuck on this part.

 

[Silver Gooch]

Hello all, I'm fixing on starting my next Iron Man Mark 7 Helmet Build and I wanted a little advice as to what the better option is. Shall I spend the $25 and get the trial size of the Smooth-Cast 321 Resin (which comes out to $40 with shipping), should I get the gallon kit (which is roughly $95 but I'm unsure of the shipping charges), or is there a better route? I was mainly planning on doing this helmet but I may end up doing other pieces/helmets later. What is my best option?

 

[recon313]

guys are there's any way/ tutorial for bondoing small2 part.I'm kinda stuck on this part.

Found it with spot putty but i've been trying to find spot putty but there no shop selling i'm looking for alternate like tamiya basic putty or light curing putty is the right putty?

 

[kadet]

Yup. Use the body fill and start smearing it on. I like to use Rondo (Resin and body filler mixed) mixed a little thick, and I apply 2-3 layers of it before I start sanding. I'll end up putting another layer on once I have it sanded to fill in the holes, and then give it a final sanding.

So, you apply a Rondo coat on the outside with a brush ? I thought the Rondo mixture was ment to go on the inside only..

 

[Katsu]

Rondo can be used in or out. USUALLY it's meant for interior work. But a lot of people use it (with good success) to build out areas, as it will give a much stronger bulk than bondo which is brittle alone. Boxing off an area and filling it with rondo to create outward details is a good technique to learn for sure.

 

[Mr ZQuazz]

Hey guys, I haven't been on in a while but I had this idea and I was wondering if anyone has tried it or if you guys think it would work. I have pepped the recruit helmet from Reach and I was going to make it normally. What I was wondering is if a motorcycle visor will shatter if I shot it with a handgun. I want to make this visor similar to the first cutscene of the game. I don't want to order a visor and try to shoot it and it just shatter or crack where I couldn't install it into the helmet. I don't plan on wearing the helmet, I made it just to have it.

 

[Katsu]

It will shatter. I think only high end expensive ones come with anti shatter layers and even then the form factor is too small and there's no way to brace it properly to ensure it distributes impact well.

Also, the 405th I believe greatly discourages anything related to firearms at all. If you want the effect you'll get better results simulating it with a dremel/ice pick better because of the fragile nature of motorcycle visors. But yeah, no guns. I don't mean to be a wet blanket but it's a massive safety issue (and wouldn't work anyways)

 

[Carpathia]

Katsu's right; we cannot condone that type of planning. The use of real fire arms, airsoft guns or paintball guns on your armor is highly discouraged and a topic you should try to avoid.