"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

[Mr ZQuazz]

It will shatter. I think only high end expensive ones come with anti shatter layers and even then the form factor is too small and there's no way to brace it properly to ensure it distributes impact well.

Also, the 405th I believe greatly discourages anything related to firearms at all. If you want the effect you'll get better results simulating it with a dremel/ice pick better because of the fragile nature of motorcycle visors. But yeah, no guns. I don't mean to be a wet blanket but it's a massive safety issue (and wouldn't work anyways)

Katsu's right; we cannot condone that type of planning. The use of real fire arms, airsoft guns or paintball guns on your armor is highly discouraged and a topic you should try to avoid.

Sorry guys, I didn't know but thanks for the heads up.

 

[RobotChicken]

I've seen window decals with cracked glass effect (sometimes with a fake baseball in the center, sometimes without) and maybe you could apply something like that on the inside or outside of your visor for replicating the "look" of a damaged visor without actually damaging a visor?

 

[WolfyGuy47]

Hey man cool I'm also South African

 

[RedGhost]

Hey guys. Can I use textile hardener for replacement for resin and fiberglass. Like first an layer directly on top of it, then one inside and then sheets of textile with the stuff on it on the inside.

Does it work or is it to weak?
Also, will it warp my model?

 

[kadet]

Hey guys. Can I use textile hardener for replacement for resin and fiberglass. Like first an layer directly on top of it, then one inside and then sheets of textile with the stuff on it on the inside.

Does it work or is it to weak?
Also, will it warp my model?

This method is not commenly used, but it's defenitly not weak stuff. It can be used on paper, but you'll take risks on messing up your construction because this stuff will make your props look like they're made out of some sort of shiny stone and there's no guarantee that you'll be able to get it flat again. Also, using fiberglass to put on the inside of your pieces will be much more flexible than textile, as textile is more often used in abstract and unpredictable artforms. Building props represents more likely an archive of constructive materials like bondo, resin, fiberglass,.. Maybe I could be wrong, there are not a lot of builders that use this method. To give you an image, here's a gallery with artwork that was created with textile hardener: http://www.powertexart.us/index_files/Page1741.htm

 

[RedGhost]

A thank you! Also, is it possible to do like thinned kit on a paintbrush, smear it on it and maybe push some textile in the inside in the wet kit, and when dried, put textile hardener on that?

 

[kadet]

A thank you! Also, is it possible to do like thinned kit on a paintbrush, smear it on it and maybe push some textile in the inside in the wet kit, and when dried, put textile hardener on that?

What exactly do you mean with "thinned kit"? If you are using textile (or fiberglass for that matter) for your very first pep, you'll always have the risk that your inside will become a mess, as it does not always cover every corner/layer and is often very sticky to apply. I do recommend that you use the fiberglass/resin method if you really want to work with colth inside your peps, but there are alternatives to working with sorts of cloth to secure the inside. The one I prefer is working with Rondo, and just give it a good coat on the inside, making sure all parts are hardened equally. For more info on that, you should defenilty check out Cereal Kill3er's videos on this forum or on his Youtube channel:

 

[RedGhost]

Fiberglass and resin aren't available here. Kit is something that looks like this: http://www.bison.nl/nl-nl/producten/663-kit-benodigdheden/product/830-click-gun/
(sorry, the website is in dutch) It is used to make things very study and water tight. Also, it is smooth and easy to apply. Thinned means I mix it with a little bit water so it is easyer to apply. I don't really need the cloth, but I buyed 14 euro on an can of 1 liter textile hardener and i'll be happy to use it if it makes my project a lot stronger. Thank you.

 

[Gamertag]

Hey guys. I was just wondering, after you have fiberglassed the inside of the helmet, what do you cover it up with after so it isnt rough when you wear it?

 

[Carpathia]

Hey guys. I was just wondering, after you have fiberglassed the inside of the helmet, what do you cover it up with after so it isnt rough when you wear it?

Padding...

(If I had a nickle for every time I've shown off this picture...)

 

[Katsu]

I'd like to add a thin layer of rondo is pretty helpful too for covering burrs and in general smoothing the inside.

 

[Carpathia]

I'd like to add a thin layer of rondo is pretty helpful too for covering burrs and in general smoothing the inside.

See, I do the rondo first; for two reasons. One, it fills all the little gaps and crevices that fiberglass won't get into. Two, it offers a nice smooth and rounded surface to apply the fiberglass (reducing the amount of sharp edges in the first place). If you were to do that, then add another layer of rondo on top, you'd have one heavy helmet.

Although if you did the glassing first, then, sure, add the rondo; it will only add strength to your helmet (though you may find a few air pockets in the more detailed parts of your helmet).

 

[Gamertag]

See, I do the rondo first; for two reasons. One, it fills all the little gaps and crevices that fiberglass won't get into. Two, it offers a nice smooth and rounded surface to apply the fiberglass (reducing the amount of sharp edges in the first place). If you were to do that, then add another layer of rondo on top, you'd have one heavy helmet.

Although if you did the glassing first, then, sure, add the rondo; it will only add strength to your helmet (though you may find a few air pockets in the more detailed parts of your helmet).

So do I Fiberglass then rondo or vice versa?

Also, what is the difference between wet sand and normal sand?

 

[Carpathia]

The order is up to you. I find it easier to rondo first, then fiberglass.

The difference between wet sand and normal sand (aka dry sand) is just what it sounds like. When wet sanding you use water or some sort of solvent to prevent build-up on the sand paper that can cause deep marring in the surface. When dry sanding, you just sand with sand paper. There's almost no benefit to wet sanding with these costumes, because the surface achieved from dry sanding is more than smooth enough to look good (unless you are an uber-perfectionist and want the smoothest surface possible that only you will be able to tell the difference).

 

[Zagoner]

Does anyone know if these products would work? I'm in the UK and am having a bit of quest finding some good stuff what doesn't have ridiculous shipping costs.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_161949_langId_-1_categoryId_165625

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_183753_langId_-1_categoryId_165625

 

[Carpathia]

From the looks of it, it should be fine. Although, the glass mat will be a bit stiff for smaller pieces like helmets and the like. You'll either need to find something that is less dense, or cut this stuff up into small pieces.

 

[Katsu]

See, I do the rondo first; for two reasons. One, it fills all the little gaps and crevices that fiberglass won't get into. Two, it offers a nice smooth and rounded surface to apply the fiberglass (reducing the amount of sharp edges in the first place). If you were to do that, then add another layer of rondo on top, you'd have one heavy helmet.

Although if you did the glassing first, then, sure, add the rondo; it will only add strength to your helmet (though you may find a few air pockets in the more detailed parts of your helmet).

I meant to say from outside in: Paper -> buffer Rondo -> Fiberglass x2/3 -> very thin layer rondo

It's a bit more weight, but if you mix it with a higher concentration of resin you get get a pretty thin slush going to cover the burrs. I ALWAYS do the buffer layer of course!

That inner layer of rondo makes it nicer to handle if you ever need to handle the helmet without padding (before installing padding, swapping out new padding, or when you are grabbing it and the fingers hit the spaces between pads)

 

[Zagoner]

From the looks of it, it should be fine. Although, the glass mat will be a bit stiff for smaller pieces like helmets and the like. You'll either need to find something that is less dense, or cut this stuff up into small pieces.

Brilliant Thanks! I could probably cut up the mat into smaller pieces to cover the inside.

 

[kadet]

Fiberglass and resin aren't available here. Kit is something that looks like this: http://www.bison.nl/nl-nl/producten/663-kit-benodigdheden/product/830-click-gun/
(sorry, the website is in dutch) It is used to make things very study and water tight. Also, it is smooth and easy to apply. Thinned means I mix it with a little bit water so it is easyer to apply. I don't really need the cloth, but I buyed 14 euro on an can of 1 liter textile hardener and i'll be happy to use it if it makes my project a lot stronger. Thank you.

Aha! So you speak dutch, well that explains the misunderstanding, couldn't really make anything of it at first. If you want you can private message me in your native language so we can discuss further. If you look at my profile you'll see I'm from Belgium (So I speak dutch too, DUH lol). But please keep using correct and refined english when talking out here in the open! Members don't feel attracted to foreign conversations they can't understand, and since communication is key I'd say we stick to english to keep everybody involved. Talk to you soon.

 

[Ghost Bear 027]

Wet sanding. Typically that is done with extraordinarily fine sandpaper grit, like 600 grit or even smaller. This gives a REALLY REALLY smooth finish. It is used on auto body repair and on the cars paint to smooth out imperfections but still maintain sheen , if I recall my high school auto shop information correctly. As stated by Carpathiavh, it is probably well past what is necessary, unless you're a perfectionist. I will oooo and ahhhh at your work if you do it though, so I'm not judging. I need more perfectionism myself