"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

[EVAkura]

I will try that thank you very much
but what about that fiber glass self adhesive tape ? is it the same fiber glass you guys use or not ?

here's a picture of it
http://img.hisupplier.com/var/userImages/old/mansontools/mansontools$85161422.jpg

That is not the same stuff... that would be for wallboard joints. It would work fine, especially if used in a couple of layers, but to answer your question, it is not the same kind generally used.

 

[ianaconda]

oh i know its not the same but i can use it from inside right ?
and it is toxic ? so i can use it indoor with mask or not

 

[EVAkura]

Yes, you can use it on the inside of the helmet. I would suggest cutting it into little pieces and strips (various sizes, not much more than 2cm wide and 6cm long)

Also, fiberglass is not toxic. It is safe to use indoors. I would suggest wearing a respirator or at least a paper filter mask to help prevent any fibers while cutting or sanding from going into your lungs. It would be about the same as hanging insulation in an attic. Non toxic, but definitely an irritant.

 

[ianaconda]

Thank you very much you have been a great informer

 

[ianaconda]

look guys i'm really sorry about asking all that again and again i just destroyed my second helmet after a week of work and all that because i want it to be hard enough ! but i ant find resin here in egypt and i cant get it from internet too so please tell me how to make my helmet ready for the car filler i make it with the cardboard a hard one and i have this exactly stuff (white glue - hot glue - fiber glass self adhesive tape ) so please tell me what to do to get my helmet hard enough for my car filler level and is that fiber glass self adhesive tape need any thing with it or just it from inside ?
i hope you guys tellme the exact levels one by one coz i dont want to destroy my next helmet
thanks a lot guys

 

[EVAkura]

look guys i'm really sorry about asking all that again and again i just destroyed my second helmet after a week of work and all that because i want it to be hard enough ! but i ant find resin here in egypt and i cant get it from internet too so please tell me how to make my helmet ready for the car filler i make it with the cardboard a hard one and i have this exactly stuff (white glue - hot glue - fiber glass self adhesive tape ) so please tell me what to do to get my helmet hard enough for my car filler level and is that fiber glass self adhesive tape need any thing with it or just it from inside ?
i hope you guys tellme the exact levels one by one coz i dont want to destroy my next helmet
thanks a lot guys

Yikes! Sorry to hear about that. No problem asking more questions, as you are obviously still having problems. A bit more info is needed though.

How did your helmet get destroyed?

When you say cardboard, can you show us a sample of what you are talking about or at least answer the following questions (both would be optimum)? Is it corrugated? How many mm thick is it? Is it coated with anything (example: does it have a shiny surface on one or both sides?) What color is it (oddly enough, answering that could possibly help)?

Also, the fiberglass self adhesive tape would have to be used in conjunction with something in order for it to become usefull, otherwise, omit it from your build. Coating it with either PVA or body filler would be the way to go if you decide to use it. To use the body filler on the inside would be difficult unless you find a way to thin it (hence, why it is mixed with epoxy to create Rondo... which is just a runny mix of the two to aid in filling crevices and such).

 

[HALOSPRTAN]

I have also seen people used a combination of white glue and water called modge podge to harden paper/cardboard. its not hugely structurally sound, but it can help with the process.

 

[ianaconda]

Thanks guys i really appreciate what you're doing for me and all the guys in here
i used a regular cardboard from boxes and pizza boxes and yes its corrugated and i don't know exactly how mm thick it is but it the regular one i tried the one side color cardboard before and when i used the water and pva the hot glue went out from the colored side because it was so soft so i destroyed my first helmet and on the other one i tried the newspaper with the pva and this make the helmet without any details and i can't sand it so it worth nothing
here what i do
1-i use a normal boxes with hot glue (glue gun) to do the helmet
2-i use the bva with water to harden it to start use the body filler to get that soft look to starting spray it
but i cant reach that level so please i want help to make the helmet hard enough and ready for body filler and sanding and after this ready for colors spray
and i won't use the fiber glass tape because i dont have any epoxy or resin so what can i do ?
Thanks

 

[Sniper95]

This is my first armor build, and I am having a massive issue with Aqua Resin. I have tried to make two parts now and have successfully wasted about $15 in materials. The problem I am having is that my glue points are popping apart when I do my first layer of resin, while the part is setting. The steps I have followed are:
1) Pepakura, scale, cut, glue.
2) Waterproof using Krylon acrylic spray (2-3 coats until the part feels waxy)
3) Mix a 3:1 Aqua Resin material, and apply with a brush in a fairly thin coat
4) Set in a low stress position to dry and set
5) Come back in 30 - 40 minutes with a broken part.

these are the broken sections

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1VJpisDjPGT08FtvRWKdt1a0J9uszFUeH87xiqXVOJac/edit?usp=sharing

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1r2zxtKEqh72Mdd2fIzmo9-OqfqeShL9KdiLgRHofvpI/edit?usp=sharing

Any help?

 

[glasscutter]

What are you using for glue? Being water based I wouldn't think it would dissolve any glue types. That might be from the Krylon acrylic spray.

Are you doing the ratio based on weight or volume?

Also what part is powder and which is liquid?

I have been experimenting with Aqua-Resin in my Mark V build. There might be something that helps you also. The link is below.

 

[EVAkura]

Thanks guys i really appreciate what you're doing for me and all the guys in here
i used a regular cardboard from boxes and pizza boxes and yes its corrugated and i don't know exactly how mm thick it is but it the regular one i tried the one side color cardboard before and when i used the water and pva the hot glue went out from the colored side because it was so soft so i destroyed my first helmet and on the other one i tried the newspaper with the pva and this make the helmet without any details and i can't sand it so it worth nothing
here what i do
1-i use a normal boxes with hot glue (glue gun) to do the helmet
2-i use the bva with water to harden it to start use the body filler to get that soft look to starting spray it
but i cant reach that level so please i want help to make the helmet hard enough and ready for body filler and sanding and after this ready for colors spray
and i won't use the fiber glass tape because i dont have any epoxy or resin so what can i do ?
Thanks

That info you provided helps a lot. My recommendation is this. Skip the PVA and wood glue. With the method you are using, it is not needed and also will cause more damage than help... as you have noticed.

Using your self adhesive fiberglass, carefully cut out pieces and attach them to the outside of your cardboard helmet. Do this to the point where every part of your helmet is covered and make sure there are zero overlaps or gaps. It will also help immensely if you use it to overlap the seams where cardboard pieces are connected. I won't lie, this will take some time and patience.

Once this is done, apply a VERY thin coat of body filler over the fiberglass. Just enough to fill in the squares of the fiberglass and maybe just a hair over. This will be your baseline - a point and indicator of your limit to sanding. Do not sand past this point or you will run into trouble. The fiberglass in conjunction with the body filler will act as your hardener. Since you are not using cardstock, you really don't need too much more strengthening. The corrugated cardboard with hot glue should be pretty strong, and using the fiberglass with body filler should be stronger than PVA. Be careful not to stress it too much as it can crack (PVA would do the same), but the fiberglass should help reduce that possibility, and will limit the size of the crack should it happen. Once you have done all of that, you can proceed as normal. Add thin layers of body filler and sand to fine tune the shape.

This is my first armor build, and I am having a massive issue with Aqua Resin. I have tried to make two parts now and have successfully wasted about $15 in materials. The problem I am having is that my glue points are popping apart when I do my first layer of resin, while the part is setting. The steps I have followed are:
1) Pepakura, scale, cut, glue.
2) Waterproof using Krylon acrylic spray (2-3 coats until the part feels waxy)
3) Mix a 3:1 Aqua Resin material, and apply with a brush in a fairly thin coat
4) Set in a low stress position to dry and set
5) Come back in 30 - 40 minutes with a broken part.

Any help?

For these questions regarding Aqua Resin, I highly recommend you contact Glasscutter and maybe he can offer some assistance. Added benefit is he too is in Washington State

EDIT: Go figure, he beat me to it! I swear, he has a notification sent to his cell phone whenever "Aqua Resin" is mentioned here!!!!

 

[ianaconda]

That info you provided helps a lot. My recommendation is this. Skip the PVA and wood glue. With the method you are using, it is not needed and also will cause more damage than help... as you have noticed.

Using your self adhesive fiberglass, carefully cut out pieces and attach them to the outside of your cardboard helmet. Do this to the point where every part of your helmet is covered and make sure there are zero overlaps or gaps. It will also help immensely if you use it to overlap the seams where cardboard pieces are connected. I won't lie, this will take some time and patience.

Once this is done, apply a VERY thin coat of body filler over the fiberglass. Just enough to fill in the squares of the fiberglass and maybe just a hair over. This will be your baseline - a point and indicator of your limit to sanding. Do not sand past this point or you will run into trouble. The fiberglass in conjunction with the body filler will act as your hardener. Since you are not using cardstock, you really don't need too much more strengthening. The corrugated cardboard with hot glue should be pretty strong, and using the fiberglass with body filler should be stronger than PVA. Be careful not to stress it too much as it can crack (PVA would do the same), but the fiberglass should help reduce that possibility, and will limit the size of the crack should it happen. Once you have done all of that, you can proceed as normal. Add thin layers of body filler and sand to fine tune the shape.




For these questions regarding Aqua Resin, I highly recommend you contact Glasscutter and maybe he can offer some assistance. Added benefit is he too is in Washington State

EDIT: Go figure, he beat me to it! I swear, he has a notification sent to his cell phone whenever "Aqua Resin" is mentioned here!!!!

Thank you very much i will try this again tomorrow but did i need anything stick the fiberglass ? or just itself will be fine ?

 

[EVAkura]

Thank you very much i will try this again tomorrow but did i need anything stick the fiberglass ? or just itself will be fine ?

If you find that it does not stick well, use superglue. DO NOT USE HOT GLUE!!!!

 

[Sniper95]

What are you using for glue? Being water based I wouldn't think it would dissolve any glue types. That might be from the Krylon acrylic spray.

Are you doing the ratio based on weight or volume?

Also what part is powder and which is liquid?

I have been experimenting with Aqua-Resin in my Mark V build. There might be something that helps you also. The link is below.

I am using a glue stick for glue, yes I agree that is probably my problem.

I am using a weight based ratio of 1 gram liquid to 3 grams powder.

My plan for fixing the seam busting is before I waterproof with the Krylon spray I run a line of hot glue down the flaps, then smear it around with a popsicle stick to seal the gaps.

 

[glasscutter]

I am using a glue stick for glue, yes I agree that is probably my problem.

I am using a weight based ratio of 1 gram liquid to 3 grams powder.

My plan for fixing the seam busting is before I waterproof with the Krylon spray I run a line of hot glue down the flaps, then smear it around with a popsicle stick to seal the gaps.

You might want to try using Mod Podge as a sealer instead of acrylic spray. Mod Podge brushes on instead of spraying, but can be washed off the brush with soap and water. It is water based so make the first few coats very light to avoid warping the cardstock. If sticking with acrylic sealer then a glue change might work. I used Aleene's Fast Grab Tacky Glue and had no problems with separation when using acrylic sealer and Aqua-Resin.

Edit Add: Watch out for putting hot glue on all the seams. I haven't used it, but some people have posted hot glue is a pain when trying to sand smooth.

 

[Sniper95]

Edit Add: Watch out for putting hot glue on all the seams. I haven't used it, but some people have posted hot glue is a pain when trying to sand smooth.

I will only be applying the glue to the inside of the seams so there will be no issues with sanding.

 

[ianaconda]

If you find that it does not stick well, use superglue. DO NOT USE HOT GLUE!!!!

Can i use UHU or (whiteglue-pva)

 

[EVAkura]

Can i use UHU or (whiteglue-pva)

You can try, but I am concerned that the PVA may make the adhesive no longer stick. It is worth a shot, but if you can find brush-on or gel superglue, I would think that will work better. You would not need more that just a bit here and there to get the tricky parts to stick... mainly crevices and peaks.

 

[ianaconda]

ok i will try it
and about the 2m x 6m lyers of fiber glass tape did i attahe it besides each other or on each other like plus + or x letter ?

 

[EVAkura]

ok i will try it
and about the 2m x 6m lyers of fiber glass tape did i attahe it besides each other or on each other like plus + or x letter ?

I am thinking no overlap, just side by side. If you want to go the extra mile, do a second layer going crosshatch (letter X), but I think that would be overkill. Also, I meant 2cm X 6cm, not meters