Roadkiller
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"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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Hello 405th i am having a little bit of trouble with my helmet i have peped it and have now chosen the wood glue method to make it hard since my parents wouldn't let me use any toxic chemicals. But i have had some problems my helmet warped a bit ( not alot ) but i am still a little concerned. Is there anything i can do to fix that and then also i have bought rondo or body filler to smooth out my helmet but i am not sure if rondo sticks to the helmet when u use the wood glue method. Does anyone know one how to use rondo and two how to fix ur helmet from warps.
Also i skipped the fiberglassing process when using the wood glue method and instead did many layers of wood glue and paper mache. It is still very very strong but i am not sure if this was a wise move
Also i skipped the fiberglassing process when using the wood glue method and instead did many layers of wood glue and paper mache. It is still very very strong but i am not sure if this was a wise move
Impossible to say without a picture. Small things you can probably fix with putty and some sanding, but if the whole model is warped or lopsided, starting over and not warping it again is the faster solution.
Rondo (=Bondo+Resin) and Bondo (the body filler) aren't the same thing and Rondo is not a product you can buy. If you have Bondo, then that's based on polyester resin as well and your parents won't allow you to use it either. But at least it should stick to the model.
There are a lot of good video tutorials about using Bondo (and basically any other putty) on Youtube.
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
If I'm not mistaken, wood glues tend to be water-based, which could definitely cause warping if applied too heavily at once.
You most likely can't fix any warps in the Pep itself at this stage due to the glue. But if the warps are minor enough, Bondo should be able to smooth them out.
However, I think your real problem is not using fiberglass. With wood glue, you really cannot achieve a suitably hardened structure without some kind of reinforcing structure (which in this case is the fiberglass). The entire point of the wood glue method is to achieve similar results as "regular" fiberglassing (i.e. using fiberglass cloth material and a filler matrix, which is the resin), while using a non-toxic matrix (wood glue).
Yes, Rondo should stick to the helmet, but I'm not sure you fully understand what Rondo is. It is a mixture of Resin and Bondo, and cannot be store bought. As you can see, it requires the use of Resin, which you are not allowed to use. However, I hope you realize that Bondo is just as toxic as the resin!
I don't mean to offend, but you're really not going to get satisfactory results unless you use the tried-and-true methods that tend to involve toxic materials. I'd suggest reconsidering this hobby until you can manage to use the proper materials.
Or, look into using EVA foam mats, like many people are doing these days.
(Edit: Ventrue, you typed faster than me this time!
)
You most likely can't fix any warps in the Pep itself at this stage due to the glue. But if the warps are minor enough, Bondo should be able to smooth them out.
However, I think your real problem is not using fiberglass. With wood glue, you really cannot achieve a suitably hardened structure without some kind of reinforcing structure (which in this case is the fiberglass). The entire point of the wood glue method is to achieve similar results as "regular" fiberglassing (i.e. using fiberglass cloth material and a filler matrix, which is the resin), while using a non-toxic matrix (wood glue).
Yes, Rondo should stick to the helmet, but I'm not sure you fully understand what Rondo is. It is a mixture of Resin and Bondo, and cannot be store bought. As you can see, it requires the use of Resin, which you are not allowed to use. However, I hope you realize that Bondo is just as toxic as the resin!
I don't mean to offend, but you're really not going to get satisfactory results unless you use the tried-and-true methods that tend to involve toxic materials. I'd suggest reconsidering this hobby until you can manage to use the proper materials.
Or, look into using EVA foam mats, like many people are doing these days.
(Edit: Ventrue, you typed faster than me this time!
)Spartan017
Jr Member
Can somebody just give me the basics for fiberglassing, like all the steps and everything? And how much will all the materials cost?
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
Or, you could simply Google how to, or look on YouTube for tutorials....
There's no hand holding or silver platters here. If you want to succeed, you have to be willing to at least do some research and work.
If I'm not mistaken, wood glues tend to be water-based, which could definitely cause warping if applied too heavily at once.
You most likely can't fix any warps in the Pep itself at this stage due to the glue. But if the warps are minor enough, Bondo should be able to smooth them out.
However, I think your real problem is not using fiberglass. With wood glue, you really cannot achieve a suitably hardened structure without some kind of reinforcing structure (which in this case is the fiberglass). The entire point of the wood glue method is to achieve similar results as "regular" fiberglassing (i.e. using fiberglass cloth material and a filler matrix, which is the resin), while using a non-toxic matrix (wood glue).
Yes, Rondo should stick to the helmet, but I'm not sure you fully understand what Rondo is. It is a mixture of Resin and Bondo, and cannot be store bought. As you can see, it requires the use of Resin, which you are not allowed to use. However, I hope you realize that Bondo is just as toxic as the resin!
I don't mean to offend, but you're really not going to get satisfactory results unless you use the tried-and-true methods that tend to involve toxic materials. I'd suggest reconsidering this hobby until you can manage to use the proper materials.
Or, look into using EVA foam mats, like many people are doing these days.
(Edit: Ventrue, you typed faster than me this time!
i am a bit offended by your comment this is my very first attempt if i did not make that clear. Also i am using what i can which isn't much and i would just like to make that clear. I understand that he didn't mean to offend me but i will respect him and i am considering starting over. This time using heaver card stock and maybe ill try resin and fiberglass if my parents allow me.
Epoxy is also unhealthy, just in a different way. You can use Aqua Resin, that's pretty much harmless, and from what I read somewhere (I think here, not sure though) you can also turn it into a putty.
I myself am also using a one-part modelling putty sold by Revell sometimes, but that contains solvents as well and I'm honestly not sure how unhealthy it is compared to Bondo. It certainly smells really awful. I also don't know how good it adheres to a wearable model, since it's not intended for models that are actually used for anything but sit on a shelf.
(Edit: Ventrue, you typed faster than me this time!
Haha, must be the adrenaline, I just played ME2 :-D
King Ham (yeah, it's that obvious), just use the reading skills you mentioned earlier. There are numerous stickies about fibreglassing, alternatives to it, the materials needed for it, about how much this is going to cost and pretty much about everything else, too. You just have to read them.
I don't think anything in Spitfire's post was supposed to offend you.
Thank You!!!!!!
Ok like i have said before i am now starting over on my master chief build i am almost done peping my new helmet and i am getting ready to order the resin body filler and fiberglass cloth i have found a few sources mostly on the ace hardware website that sell fiberglass cloth for 7.49 I have read some reviews on it and most of them the purpose was to make daft punk helmets or boat repair etc. then i also found fiberglassing resin for that fiber glass for 11.99 hardener included. But i have never fiberglassed anything, or used resin ( i have already purchased a resporator ) and have gone over safety stuff so now what should i do i haven't got body filler yet because i am a little nervous about that.
So ya i am basically looking for beginners advice on what to look out for when applying these. I already know the basics but niow i am looking for like the other things i have to look out for especially warping how do i solve this
So ya i am basically looking for beginners advice on what to look out for when applying these. I already know the basics but niow i am looking for like the other things i have to look out for especially warping how do i solve this
Ral Partha
Sr Member
You should start by reading the fiberglassing stickies in the pep forum. They will tell you what kind to use and how to apply them (with pictures) to your pep.
Hopefully one that's made from rubber and has filter cartridges with black labels?
Don't worry it does i made sure and i found two kinds of resin but am not sure what to use one is polyester resin and the other isn't but thae one that isn't is less expensive so does polyester resin and regular resin make a difference
( if it says fiberglass respirator is that good it isn't like the one that looks like a gas mask its just a cover for your nose and mouth.)
But it does asy its for fiberglass and sanding. if this isn't the correct one could someone send me a link for the correct one.
( if it says fiberglass respirator is that good it isn't like the one that looks like a gas mask its just a cover for your nose and mouth.)
But it does asy its for fiberglass and sanding. if this isn't the correct one could someone send me a link for the correct one.
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
Does it look like this?
If not, it wont work properly to filter the resin and Bondo fumes.
I'd guess you got something like this:
Even though it may say for "fiberglass", it may mean that it's a particulate filter for tiny dust particles created when sanding fiberglass. Because fiberglass cloth itself isn't harmful. What IS harmful are the vapors from the resin used to apply/harden it, and those dust particles.
If not, it wont work properly to filter the resin and Bondo fumes.
I'd guess you got something like this:
Even though it may say for "fiberglass", it may mean that it's a particulate filter for tiny dust particles created when sanding fiberglass. Because fiberglass cloth itself isn't harmful. What IS harmful are the vapors from the resin used to apply/harden it, and those dust particles.
Just wanted to make sure. Read Spitfire's post for more info.
The "regular" "fibreglass" resin is polyester resin, and it's usually the cheapest one around. Nobody can say anything about the other one without knowing what it is, and I honestly have no idea what it could be if it's less expensive than polyester resin. Maybe you're looking at different quantities.
Also: If you love your audience, please use punctuation marks, at least after every sentence.
Erm, I finished a Kukri recently, and my only gripe was the brush stroke creatung small canyons that were formed in diffferent layers, Some with are pretty deep which sanding would only compromise it's integrity.
Is there some sort of putty or filler for those grooves? Thanks in advance
Is there some sort of putty or filler for those grooves? Thanks in advance
Darkrider9
Well-Known Member
Not sure if I read that right but spot putty or bondo sounds like it would work.
Now for my question:
I resined a few pieces today and its been a few hours and after looking at the peps the first one I did is dry but the ones I resined after it seem to be completely wet. I am positive I added enough hardener and I find it unlikely that there would be such a drastic change between two pieces like this. I was thinking that I may have not mixed the resin well enough, but I doubt it as it started to harden inside the cup after a while.
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