"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

[SquishyShoes]

Hey guys quick question, I'm fibreglassing in the winter (or am planning on it) and temperatures vary from 0C in the early morning to anywhere between 12 and 16 degrees Celsius at the max during the day. I'm inside my shed, tin walls and what not (which'll probably make it colder, right?), so I'm wondering if I'll need to get a heater going in there or what the go is. In summary:

Most days, the temperature goes from between 4-14 degrees Celsius
I'll be fibreglassing in a tin shed
I'm using polyester resin (Digger's brand)

So, what I'm wondering is do I need a heater to make the room warmer? Do I need to add more catalyst and let it cure for longer?
What should I do? I have a rather tight schedule for trying to get this done and am really stretching my time thin as is.

Thanks guys, Squish.

 

[Darkrider9]

Hey guys quick question, I'm fibreglassing in the winter (or am planning on it) and temperatures vary from 0C in the early morning to anywhere between 12 and 16 degrees Celsius at the max during the day. I'm inside my shed, tin walls and what not (which'll probably make it colder, right?), so I'm wondering if I'll need to get a heater going in there or what the go is. In summary:

Most days, the temperature goes from between 4-14 degrees Celsius
I'll be fibreglassing in a tin shed
I'm using polyester resin (Digger's brand)

So, what I'm wondering is do I need a heater to make the room warmer? Do I need to add more catalyst and let it cure for longer?
What should I do? I have a rather tight schedule for trying to get this done and am really stretching my time thin as is.

Thanks guys, Squish.

It is super important to have it be very warm when you glass/resin things. If you are going to be doing that in as cold temperatures as you said you are probably going to need more than one space heater, more like 4 powerful ones. A heat box is another popular option some use here so I'd look into that.

 

[SquishyShoes]

Thanks for the tip dark, I'll look into hotboxes now. Always happy with the responses/response times of people on this site.
Thanks, Squish

EDIT: I remember reading about these months ago (mind you, I was no where near the resin stage, still pepping and learning) and must've forgotten about them. again, thanks for the heads up.

 

[SpartanGirl]

alright, would the Bondo fiberglass resin kit they have at walmart be enough for the Helmet and the chest plate? or just for the helmet then go buy another pack for just the chest plate? the kit has 3 sq ft of fiberglass mat and about 8 oz of resin, and I cant remember how much hardening agent

EDIT: heres the information from Amazon
"Kit contains 8 oz. polyester resin, .20 oz. methyl ethyl ketone hardener, plastic spreader, 3 sq. ft. fiberglass mat."

 

[Ral Partha]

alright, would the Bondo fiberglass resin kit they have at walmart be enough for the Helmet and the chest plate? or just for the helmet then go buy another pack for just the chest plate? the kit has 3 sq ft of fiberglass mat and about 8 oz of resin, and I cant remember how much hardening agent

EDIT: heres the information from Amazon
"Kit contains 8 oz. polyester resin, .20 oz. methyl ethyl ketone hardener, plastic spreader, 3 sq. ft. fiberglass mat."

You're going to need more than that for your helmet and chest piece. You're better off getting the components separately from Wal-Mart or any auto supply store (like Auto-Zone, Advanced Auto or O'Reilly).

I suggest that for starters, you pick up a quart of fiberglass resin (comes with a tube of hardener), an extra tube of hardener, a pack of fiberglass cloth (easier for beginners to work with than mat) and a few foam brushes. And don't forget a respirator, too.

 

[Spitfire22V]

I agree with Ral Partha. If it helps give you an idea how much material is needed for a full suit, I used almost 4 packs of fiberglass cloth (the ones you find at Wal-Mart, Home Depot, etc) which are 9 square feet each if I remember correctly. I also used about a quart and a half of resin. This was enough for one layer of fiberglass on all pieces of a full suit.

While they say that the tube of hardener is enough for the entire quart, it doesn't hurt to pick up another. For some reason, I didn't have enough for the first quart, had to buy another.

 

[SpartanGirl]

I agree with Ral Partha. If it helps give you an idea how much material is needed for a full suit, I used almost 4 packs of fiberglass cloth (the ones you find at Wal-Mart, Home Depot, etc) which are 9 square feet each if I remember correctly. I also used about a quart and a half of resin. This was enough for one layer of fiberglass on all pieces of a full suit.

While they say that the tube of hardener is enough for the entire quart, it doesn't hurt to pick up another. For some reason, I didn't have enough for the first quart, had to buy another.

alright, thank you. I had heard someone say somewhere the starter kit was enough but I had a feeling that wasn't the case, so I figured id ask

 

[bamills]

You're going to need more than that for your helmet and chest piece. You're better off getting the components separately from Wal-Mart or any auto supply store (like Auto-Zone, Advanced Auto or O'Reilly).

I suggest that for starters, you pick up a quart of fiberglass resin (comes with a tube of hardener), an extra tube of hardener, a pack of fiberglass cloth (easier for beginners to work with than mat) and a few foam brushes. And don't forget a respirator, too.

I personally hate the foam brushes, Walmart has 1$ single paint brushes 1" that work great for me. Just pick up a can of acetone, and soak them after each use to avoid resin clumps in the bristles.

 

[bamills]

Quick question can you use Rondo on top of armor? And if so, which is the best way to apply it?

*edit I got lucky when reading random pages of the thread and found my answer on page 12.

 

[Dark Star]

Hey all, I think I might have a new question here, I got some spare resin from a fiberglass factory, you don't mix in any hardener, and it's only heat activated. (They also told me it can give you third degree burns, needless to say I've been careful, and thankfully it didn't burn my cardstock-test-subject.) So my question is have any of you guys worked with this stuff and did it turn out well for your project?

EDIT: Description: this stuff is gray, apparently comes in colors, is slightly thinner than resin, needs no hardener, and is used in the actual production of fiberglass.
Thx for your time!

EDIT 2: I used some of it today, without the fiberglass mat in it this stuff has almost a rubbery nature to it, it bends a little before it snaps. It's an interesting combination, I haven't tried it with mat yet. I wouldn't definitely appreciate thoughts comments and opinions on this. If I haven't clarified anything by all means, please ask.

 

[NeoKeth]

I'm having some trouble finding something comparable to "Aqua Resin" to make my peps rigid before the Fiberglass/Rondo phase.
http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/alumilite-mini-casting-kit-579714/
this stuff is cheaper yet:
http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/easycast-casting-epoxy-840645/

I don't mean to spam (which is why I only posted PART of my original post) but I can't seem to find an answer to this question anywhere and I haven't received a reply?

Hey all, I think I might have a new question here, I got some spare resin from a fiberglass factory, you don't mix in any hardener, and it's only heat activated. (They also told me it can give you third degree burns, needless to say I've been careful, and thankfully it didn't burn my cardstock-test-subject.) So my question is have any of you guys worked with this stuff and did it turn out well for your project?

EDIT: Description: this stuff is gray, apparently comes in colors, is slightly thinner than resin, needs no hardener, and is used in the actual production of fiberglass.
Thx for your time!

I had thought I had heard of someone using something similar two years ago, though I don't know exactly how it went. I remember them saying it worked though. But DON'T take my 100% advice on it and just jump into using it. Remember that Resin gives off heat as it reacts with hardener anyways, and will likely heat up even more on it's own once you begin to apply your heat to it so CAUTION is DEFINITELY REQUIRED! Let's get some other opinions?

 

[ventrue]

I'm having some trouble finding something comparable to "Aqua Resin" to make my peps rigid before the Fiberglass/Rondo phase.

"Before" the fibreglass/Rondo phase? Why?

Aqua Resin is something you would usually use because you want to avoid using hazardous chemicals (like polyester resin, which you use to make Rondo). If you are already planning to use them, you can just as well brush some resin onto the model. That's what all the tutorials recommend and it works.

Anyone know of anything comparable in Michigan? (There's no place nearby that sells that stuff and I'm not paying for shipping and the website looks too shady for my credit card.)

Probably safer these days than your favourite gaming network

I had some email contact with them recently and they said they were working on a new page, in case that puts your mind at ease.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/alumilite-mini-casting-kit-579714/

Googeling "aluminite" brought me to their web page and more specifically to this product page, which contains a link to the MSDSs of all the chemicals in the kit. To sum it up: It's a polyurethane resin, harmful and chemically similar to SmoothCast, but not to Aqua Resin. Read the MSDS for more details.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/easycast-casting-epoxy-840645/

The name already says that it's an epoxy resin. Also harmful (the description even says it) and not similar to Aqua Resin. Seems to be this product, MSDSs are avaliable here for both parts.

You can probably use both of these products, lots of people on the forums use urethane resins and some, including myself, also use epoxies. But neither of them is an equivalent of Aqua Resin.

 

[NeoKeth]

"Before" the fibreglass/Rondo phase? Why?

Aqua Resin is something you would usually use because you want to avoid using hazardous chemicals (like polyester resin, which you use to make Rondo). If you are already planning to use them, you can just as well brush some resin onto the model. That's what all the tutorials recommend and it works.



Probably safer these days than your favourite gaming network

I had some email contact with them recently and they said they were working on a new page, in case that puts your mind at ease.



Googeling "aluminite" brought me to their web page and more specifically to this product page, which contains a link to the MSDSs of all the chemicals in the kit. To sum it up: It's a polyurethane resin, harmful and chemically similar to SmoothCast, but not to Aqua Resin. Read the MSDS for more details.



The name already says that it's an epoxy resin. Also harmful (the description even says it) and not similar to Aqua Resin. Seems to be this product, MSDSs are avaliable here for both parts.

You can probably use both of these products, lots of people on the forums use urethane resins and some, including myself, also use epoxies. But neither of them is an equivalent of Aqua Resin.

I'm not at all worried about the hazardous materials. I'm just trying to find something that would do the job right to stiffen the peices once I have all the peps assembled and before fiber-glassing. I thought just brushing on resin would put too much weight on the peps and make it warp, but I'll take your advice and try just that.

 

[ventrue]

I'm not at all worried about the hazardous materials. I'm just trying to find something that would do the job right to stiffen the peices once I have all the peps assembled and before fiber-glassing. I thought just brushing on resin would put too much weight on the peps and make it warp, but I'll take your advice and try just that.

Well, don't over do it. Depending on what kind of cardstock you used to build the model, the resin may well damage it, but that would happen with any resin.

 

[NeoKeth]

Well, don't over do it. Depending on what kind of cardstock you used to build the model, the resin may well damage it, but that would happen with any resin.

I'm using normal 110 lb cardstock.

 

[bamills]

head over to your local walmart, go back to automotive, near the bondo, they have cans of auto resin with hardner for about 11$ just use that once your done pepping it, just be careful sometimes it heats up the hot glue and stuff comes apart =/ but after a few hours it makes the model firmer than just the paper, do a couple coats if you want it nice and hard.

 

[NeoKeth]

head over to your local walmart, go back to automotive, near the bondo, they have cans of auto resin with hardner for about 11$ just use that once your done pepping it, just be careful sometimes it heats up the hot glue and stuff comes apart =/ but after a few hours it makes the model firmer than just the paper, do a couple coats if you want it nice and hard.

Automotive resin? You mean fiberglass resin?

 

[cian2d2]

Hi have resined, fiberglassed and primed my recon helmet so i have a few questions
1. is bondo the same as isopon?
2. do I have to sand after i prime or can i leave it?

 

[Dizzerak]

Hi have resined, fiberglassed and primed my recon helmet so i have a few questions
1. is bondo the same as isopon?
2. do I have to sand after i prime or can i leave it?

1. Bondo is an autobody filler. From what I've seen, Isopon is the same type of stuff.
2. It's really up to you. Most seem to use the primer to see spots where they missed in the initial sanding.

 

[Dark Star]

Got a quickie, short and sweet, what respiratory devices do you need working with resin? I assume a dust mask won't do anything, does anyone know offhand what kind of filter you need?
Thx for your time! ;D