IPv6 Subnet
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Ok thanks also, I have another qeustion, can i just put a less amount of catalyst drops into the fiberglass resin so it will cure slower, because I only have 5 brushes right now to fiberglass resin everything.
"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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IPv6 Subnet
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o woops lol i didnt see that comment and i thought what i said got deleted sorry and thanks for everything
IPv6 Subnet
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Ok one more qeustion, how should i let the resin cure. Some people say a day and then some people say 10 minutes. Should I not do all of the fiberglass resin and paint in the same day or fiberglass resin then paint the next day.
Read the instructions of the particular product you have.
Shadow 2r5
Jr Member
For eye protection, can you use swimming goggles? They create a seal around your eyes, so I presume the fumes wouldn't affect your eyes. Also, would those $30 Walmart respirators suffice?
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
I don't know about others, but I don't use eye protection against fumes/vapors when I'm resining or Bondo-ing. I use standard protective glasses when sanding, but especially when cutting fiberglass. These can be purchased for a few bucks from a local store or even pharmacy maybe. I wouldn't use swimming goggles as eye protection btw...
Secondly, we don't know what specific "$30 WalMart respirator" you're talking about. A photo or a link would help, but if it has cartridge filters against organic vapors, you're good to go.
Vapours shouldn't be a problem. They do irritate your eyes, but the concentration is barely high enough to feel the effect on your eyes at all, let alone suffer permanent damage. If the concentration gets high enough to actually hurt, chances are that your respirator has long failed as well, because the filters aren't rated for such concentrations. The more sophisticated respiratory protection that would be necessary would come with a full-face respirator and solve your eye problem.
Swimming googles would protect well against spills, vapours and dust, but probably not (at least not officially) against impacts. Impact protection is something you definitely want when working with power tools - we all know how certain Dremel accessories tend to shatter and fly in all directions.
Safety googles are probably the cheapest part of your safety equipment, there are really good ones that protect against impacts, dust, vapours and liquids, are respirator compatible and even look cool for around 10€. Worthwhile investment, I'd say.
As for the respirator: What Spitfire said.
Here's more info on safety, you'll be answer the respirator question on your own if you read it: http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/33426-Prop-Making-Safety-Guide
Hi guys,
I'ma first time poster for the site, but i've come here on several occastions for information. And i've had a question on my mind. Hopefully someone will let me know
Basically I know to get the best results I should fiberglass my prep. But what I wanted to know is, can I epoxy my prep as either an alternative or atleast to aid in some strengthening? Basically I wanna make sure my prep is as strong as possible because i'ma soon add details to it and I don't want it to collaspe. Also eventually i'ma use it to make a mold for casting. So I want it to be as strong as possible for this. Thanks for any help It's much appreciated.
I'ma first time poster for the site, but i've come here on several occastions for information. And i've had a question on my mind. Hopefully someone will let me know
Basically I know to get the best results I should fiberglass my prep. But what I wanted to know is, can I epoxy my prep as either an alternative or atleast to aid in some strengthening? Basically I wanna make sure my prep is as strong as possible because i'ma soon add details to it and I don't want it to collaspe. Also eventually i'ma use it to make a mold for casting. So I want it to be as strong as possible for this. Thanks for any help
It's much appreciated.Try googling your questions, I found http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bondo_(putty) in less than 5 seconds, and it answers it more satisfactorily than most of us can.
Basically I know to get the best results I should fiberglass my prep. But what I wanted to know is, can I epoxy my prep as either an alternative or atleast to aid in some strengthening? Basically I wanna make sure my prep is as strong as possible because i'ma soon add details to it and I don't want it to collaspe. Also eventually i'ma use it to make a mold for casting. So I want it to be as strong as possible for this. Thanks for any help
You can use epoxy resin instead of polyester resin, but you still need to use fibres.
Also, the word you want to use is "pep", which is short for "Pepakura".
Frankyboy440
Jr Member
Hi.
I just wanted to know if anyone knew where to buy some non-toxic resin/fiberglass reinforcement in Sweden or something similar to smooth-cast 300.
just so that i don't have to buy aqua-resin or smooth-cast 300 and get it shipped over here.
I just wanted to know if anyone knew where to buy some non-toxic resin/fiberglass reinforcement in Sweden or something similar to smooth-cast 300.
just so that i don't have to buy aqua-resin or smooth-cast 300 and get it shipped over here.
SmoothCast is a polyurethane resin and is NOT non-toxic, neither are urethane resins you can find over here.
A European alternative to Aqua-Resin would be Acrystal. Seems to originate in France, but they have a lot of distributors all over Europe, including one for Scandinavia based in Stockholm: http://www.ellsworth.se/hem/produkter/Formgjutning_och_prototyper/Akrylpolymer.aspx.
Frankyboy440
Jr Member
thanks wery much
this Acrystal Prima looks interesting.
and thanks for telling me that smoothcast is toxic, i just saw people using it without respirator on youtube and their videos on the website.
do you think that the 3.5kg kit with Acrystal Prima+Basic Crystal is enough to cover the whole suit?
this Acrystal Prima looks interesting.
and thanks for telling me that smoothcast is toxic, i just saw people using it without respirator on youtube and their videos on the website.
do you think that the 3.5kg kit with Acrystal Prima+Basic Crystal is enough to cover the whole suit?
I don't know. Maybe for hardening only, but probably not if you want to use it as a putty as well.
Keep in mind that this is not going to work properly without fibreglass.
Master Chives
New Member
Ok I've resined almost every MK VI piece except for the chest piece. I made the mistake of pepping it in one piece. I was wondering if anyone had a link to a thread that could tell me how to cut it into two pieces so it is wearable. Or should I resin it first and then cut it into two pieces? Please help.
Frankyboy440
Jr Member
ok thanks. I will buy two 3.5 kits that should work.
I have some fiberglass at home that looks like this
but I was wondering if this is better
I have some fiberglass at home that looks like this
but I was wondering if this is better
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
Ok I've resined almost every MK VI piece except for the chest piece. I made the mistake of pepping it in one piece. I was wondering if anyone had a link to a thread that could tell me how to cut it into two pieces so it is wearable. Or should I resin it first and then cut it into two pieces? Please help.
Making it one piece isn't a mistake, it's how it's supposed to be done. While not the end-all, be-all method of doing it, I document how I split my chest piece in my build thread with help/advice from others, starting on Page 20:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/31247-Spitfire22V-s-LD-Mark-VI-build-Now-Completed/page20
HIGHLY recommended to split the chest AFTER hardening to ensure the pieces line up correctly. It's working great for me so far.
While it's mostly personal preference, I suggest using the uniform fiberglass cloth; this one:
ok thanks. I will buy two 3.5 kits that should work.
I have some fiberglass at home that looks like this
Frankyboy440
Jr Member
ok thanks
If I remember correctly, the fibreglass they sell for use with these acrylic resins has a special coating or something. You should look into that before placing your order.
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