"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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GrinningDemon
New Member
Okay I might have missed it but do you guys know how much the Aqua Resin Trial Kit from theEngineerguy's site will cover. I'm doing a few helmets from Halo and the lady I talked to that works there said someone from the 405th said 1 kit would do a full suit but looking at the kit I don't see how that little bit would cover a full suit. Please PM me the anwser so I don't miss it again I'm trying to get this ordered so I can finish my first few builds soon. Thanks
Skullcandy Girl recommended two trial kits for a full suit in the Backyard FX video she did. But since the video is a bit on the optimistic side (and completely disregards putty) and you might have a few failures, it certainly can't hurt to have a third one. And since you're buying that much of it, you might also check if a non-trial kit isn't cheaper.
And no, I'm not PMing you.
Master Chives
New Member
Thank you very much!
TheGimpMaster01
New Member
Hi guys,
I'm still new to the forums, so sorry if I appear to be a huge noob. It's because I am
I have finished a mix of LD/HD parts for the halo armor. The only left to finish is the fiberglassing the helmet and pepping the chestpiece. Everything else has been fiberglassed as of right now. I am just wondering what the process for applying Bondo Automotive Body Filler is. Or if someone could link a useful topic?
Thank you!
I'm still new to the forums, so sorry if I appear to be a huge noob. It's because I am
I have finished a mix of LD/HD parts for the halo armor. The only left to finish is the fiberglassing the helmet and pepping the chestpiece. Everything else has been fiberglassed as of right now. I am just wondering what the process for applying Bondo Automotive Body Filler is. Or if someone could link a useful topic?
Thank you!
Hi guys,
I'm still new to the forums, so sorry if I appear to be a huge noob. It's because I am
I have finished a mix of LD/HD parts for the halo armor. The only left to finish is the fiberglassing the helmet and pepping the chestpiece. Everything else has been fiberglassed as of right now. I am just wondering what the process for applying Bondo Automotive Body Filler is. Or if someone could link a useful topic?
Thank you!
I suggest that you look at some of the WIPs how people bondo their pieces. Generally, you do not apply bondo on all your armor. Bondo is used to smooth surface. For example, the back of the helmet is usually round. Your pepped and resined helmet may look angular because of how you pep. You need to apply bondo, sparingly on that area. Sand it down and check the surface. It will help if you spray a light coat of primer. If it still does not look smooth and round, apply bondo again, sand again. You many need to do this several times.
I have a few photos on the ODST helmet that I started bondo. Hope this helps.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/29855-ODST-for-my-kids-WIP?p=535586#post535586
TheGimpMaster01
New Member
Thanks! I'm looking at your thread right now. Good to know that I need only apply that stuff sparingly. I had in mind that it was going to be similar to caulking holes in walls, but obviously not!
Frankyboy440
Jr Member
i watched a video on youtube were someone told that the smoothcast he used (321 and 320) could be used inside a house and wasn't toxic
just so you know
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Don't believe everything you see on Youtube.
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Not true. Anytime you add chemicals together and anytime you get chain reaction (Chemical 101), there is a chance it is toxic. Smoothcast being "plastic" is, I believe, in the toxic category. I haven't used Smoothcast, but I would never bring it inside the house.
Ventrue's words of wisdom.
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Frankyboy440
Jr Member
OK thanks.
Asriel 119
New Member
Hi all,
Just a quick question about resining. How the frak do you get the brushes clean?! I'm in the UK, and using David's Fastglas resin from Halfords. I don't know what base it is, but it came in a pack with fibreglass so I'm assuming it's the same as what everyone else on the forum refers to as just 'fibreglass resin'. Tried using white spirit and scrubbing the brush for a good 10 minutes, but to no avail. A swift answer would be awesome, seeing as I'm running out of paintbrushes!!
Thanks,
Asriel
Just a quick question about resining. How the frak do you get the brushes clean?! I'm in the UK, and using David's Fastglas resin from Halfords. I don't know what base it is, but it came in a pack with fibreglass so I'm assuming it's the same as what everyone else on the forum refers to as just 'fibreglass resin'. Tried using white spirit and scrubbing the brush for a good 10 minutes, but to no avail. A swift answer would be awesome, seeing as I'm running out of paintbrushes!!
Thanks,
Asriel
Carpathia
Sr Member
I personally don't know if there is a way to effectively clean a brush after using resin. Most people here just use disposable brushes. I use 1" chip brushes that I can get about 36 for $6. I'm not sure of the UK equivalent, but you may be able to find some or ask for the like in a hardware store.
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
If you squeeze out as much excess resin in the brush and soak it in acetone for some time immediately after use, there's a chance you can reuse, though it will not be as good as a new brush. I've done this in a pinch, but I wouldn't depend on it. It's best to buy lots of cheap brushes and use a new one every time you fiberglass. Look for acid brushes, they sell for < $1 and you can get them in bulk.
http://www.airgas.com/browse/productDetail.aspx?Category=50&product=RAD64000456
http://www.solobrushes.com/Family.asp?FamilyID=162&Cat1ID=11
(Yes, that's ~$20 for 144 of them)
ACETONE WILL ,It's what i use to clean my rollers when glassing
Acetone will take off resin if you soak the brush straight after use, once its hardened it wont work. However you will have to leave the brush soaked in acetone or it will just harden again if left to dry and you'll still end up having to throw the brush away. What i do is i have a plastic cup i put enough acetone in to submerge the bristles of the brush and leave the brush soaked in it til the next day when i use it. It stays soft and reusable. Just do this everytime to get the most out of your brushes. Make sure to change out the acetone each time though as it will have resin in it which it took off the brush so soaking the brush in it again can make it harden back on. Keep the solution clean and it will be fine. Also make sure the level is topped up, if it gets too low it will dry out and the resin in the solution will stick on the brush and make it completely unusable. Im still on the same brush now for the past 3 days and its still fine. Running out of acetone though
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
Kind of...
First, resin on the outside to strengthen the Pep enough to support the fiberglass.
Then, fiberglass on the inside, where you obviously have to use resin also.
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
OK so i know your meant to use resin oustside,
I can't atm due to bad weather
If I do it inside my garage, (no sun) how do I speed up the catalyst reaction so it hardens quicker?
Would a hairdryer be ok?
The Sun doesn't have much to do with it. Properly mixed resin will cure whether in the shade, on a cloudy day, or indoors. Usually, I find that resin cures fast enough if you mix it at the proper ratio, but if you really want it to cure faster, adding a few more drops of catalyst than the recommended ratio will do it. So will a heat-gun, but be careful since it can lead to warping.
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