Satchmo III
Well-Known Member
Yep...and the snozberries taste like snozberries.
"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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Yep...and the snozberries taste like snozberries.
Pretty much, yeah. Results will vary, as will the way you work with them, but in principle they should all be ok to use.
Epoxy is simply a different kind of resin. I suggest you read up on it, use the Wikipedia or search the forums with Google.
Duckster18
Jr Member
I believe so yes. It also makes the armor alot heavier on the body. That's why a majority of people do fiberglassing. It's very lightweight
WeirdSauce
New Member
I get fiberglassing the inside and all, but the. I see people talking about rondo/bondo. (Do I buy just fiberglass resin or other types to mix with it?) Does that go on the outside? And what makes the outside smooth/reinforced to be sanded? I've spent an hour just looking over stuff and want to move on with my pepakura forearm. Sorry with the bombardment of questions... first time posting. >>
recon313
Jr Member
but it still ok to use it is`nt it as i want make my armor stronger so that it would not be break easily
Constrictor
Active Member
Have some problem with model with no support to hold the shape of model. How can you guys maintain it when apply first layer of rondo/resin or whatever.
Thanks for your time, Constrictor
Thanks for your time, Constrictor
recon313
Jr Member
I think you can use something else beside paper support you can use some stuff like botol`s or bucket just to hold the shape of the model or you can make your own support with paper too no need to be need just to support it only to hold the shapeHave some problem with model with no support to hold the shape of model. How can you guys maintain it when apply first layer of rondo/resin or whatever.
Thanks for your time, Constrictor
Hi guys I wanted to set some things straight. But first of all sorry for my english
When I'm done with scissors & glue I add a layer of resin on the inside of the mask first and then a layer of resin with faber glass? After that a thick layer of resin on the outside?
I have read a bit on this forum and just wanted to get a simple answer what goes first etc.
A summary of some sort
Here are some photos of the mask im working on
When I'm done with scissors & glue I add a layer of resin on the inside of the mask first and then a layer of resin with faber glass? After that a thick layer of resin on the outside?
I have read a bit on this forum and just wanted to get a simple answer what goes first etc.
A summary of some sort
Here are some photos of the mask im working on
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
1. Resin on the outside (to slightly strengthen the piece).
2. Fiberglass on the inside (the actual hardening process).
3. Bondo on the outside (to smooth out edges).
That's really all there is to it. You can do however many layers of resin and fiberglass as you want. Many people will say to do several, but from personal experience, you can do only 1 of each if you want, assuming your cardboard model is sturdy enough.
And your English is much better than most Americans, so don't worry about that.
2. Fiberglass on the inside (the actual hardening process).
3. Bondo on the outside (to smooth out edges).
That's really all there is to it. You can do however many layers of resin and fiberglass as you want. Many people will say to do several, but from personal experience, you can do only 1 of each if you want, assuming your cardboard model is sturdy enough.
And your English is much better than most Americans, so don't worry about that.
HallowedKhaos013
New Member
ok let me get this straight, after making sure that all my safety equipment is in working condition i need to resin the pep let it set for a day, then resin again and fiberglass the INSIDE ONLY, then bondo the inside and outside let it cure then sand it down, and repeat this process a few more times i'm sorry about all the questions but I really want to get this right.
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
Close.
First, you don't necessarily have to wait a day for the resin to dry, just until it's completely cured. The cure time will depend primarily on the temperature of where you're working, as well as if you mixed in the correct amount of catalyst into the resin. (Follow the instructions that came with it!) It shouldn't take more than a few hours to be cure enough to continue work on it though.
Not sure what you man by "resin again". You can do several layers of resin only, both inside or outside, if you want. However, the minimum is to resin the outside with at least one layer. Applying fiberglass requires brushing on resin into the fiberglass cloth to soak it. If you're unfamiliar with how to fiberglass, simply Google it or look up tutorials on YouTube to learn how. Many people will advocate doing several layers of fiberglass; I successfully only did one layer for my entire suit and it's plenty strong.
Technically, after the fiberglass cures, the piece is hardened and you can paint if you want. However, most people tend to want to smooth out the edges of the paper model so it looks more like a single metal piece instead of an obviously cardboard model. Bondo is applied to places you want to smooth and/or round out, and is only applied on the outside. You put it on in thin coats, and sand smooth, repeating this process of Bondo + sand until the piece is to your liking. Again, if you don't know how to Bondo, Google and YouTube are your friends.
Now, an alternative hardening method is Rondo, which is a mix of Bondo and Resin (hence the name). This IS applied to the inside if you go that route, just as fiberglass would be.
If you'd like, download and read the All-in-One New Member guide linked in my sig. It covers the entire armor-making process.
Toymakerkarl
New Member
I am doing another Mk. VI Spartan armor build, this time full Pepakura , including helmet. I am conducting a little experiment using water-based Polycrylic Protective Finish, Clear Satin, from Minwax, instead of fiberglass resin. I will, however, be slush casting Smooth Cast 320 on the inside of each piece. I have been offered a couple of bags of the nylon fibers that is mixed into concrete. I was thinking about using them instead of fiberglass. So far, I have begun the coating process on both of the hand armor pieces. They are drying now. I was curious if anyone else has ever done anything like the polycrylic or other polyurethane coatings instead of fiberglass resin.
Spitfire22V
Well-Known Member
I tried using Minwax Polycrylic on my first helmet. Yes, it worked, just not as well as resin when I made a second helmet. I think this is mainly because the Polycrylic is not as "sticky" as resin, so the cloth wouldn't conform to complex curves and shapes inside the Pep parts, leaving large air voids. However, this could also partly be attributed to the carbon fiber cloth I was using, which wasn't as well "behaved" as the fiberglass I used later.
Basically, I would say go for it, as long as you're aware for the potential for the cloth to "lift" from the surface before the Polycrylic dries. You might be able to avoid this by using smaller pieces of cloth, and working slowly, ensuring the cloth dries before moving on.
Lastly, don't forget that Polycrylic is water-based (if I'm not mistaken), and as such will have a good chance that it will warp any Pep pieces if you don't seal the cardboard off. Ironically, this is best done with resin. I did not have this problem when I used it because I had resined the outside of the helmet first. I know what you're thinking: why use Polycrylic if I already had resin? I'm pretty sure it's non-toxic (since it's water-based), so I was able to glass indoors and not have to worry about fumes. Also, it's easier to apply since there's no mixing with a catalyst; just brush it on.
Good luck.
Toymakerkarl
New Member
With the upper arms and the boots from my last Mk. VI build, I used fiberglass resin inside and out, then I cut the fiberglass into 1"x1" squares and used Cyanoacetate or "crazy glue" on the corners and center of the fiberglass squares to hold them in place before I applied resin, then a thin layer of Smooth Cast 321. It would be nice if there was a "resin in a can" product that you could just spray on. I read the Minwax can and it says to sand with 220 grit and apply 2-3 layers for furniture. The pep became a bit moist from the first coat, but that is why I tried it on the hand armor first, nothing bigger. I have seen the guys down at a boat yard here in Pensacola, FL doing boat repair. They have two spray guns working. One has fiberglass resin, the other has the hardening catalyst. That would be cool in can form.
Satchmo III
Well-Known Member
Rondo isn't necessarily needed at all. Some people choose to slosh the mixture (bondo and resin) around the inside of paper models in order to strengthen them in lieu of other hardening techniques like installing fiberglass.
Rondo can also be used for other applications such as building up areas on the exterior of models for detail work. Since rondo is more viscous than bondo it can be poured in temporary forms that , once removed, leave a raised area of hardened rondo that can be sanded and detailed.
I've used rondo to raise areas to screw to for installing mounting hardware for face-shields (http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...ld-work-log-(Satchmo-III)?p=551666#post551666). It can also be used to fill in gaps (such as between a face-shield and its opening).
Try not to get in the mind that a certain material can only be used a certain way. Expand and experiment to get the best out of what you are using. There are always different ways to do things and it's always cool to share new ideas with the community. Remember to always work with proper safety equipment.
recon313
Jr Member
thx for the information
HappySalesman
New Member
So... I'm having some troubles. I'm at the bondo stage for my samus helmet, and i'm having trouble rounding out all of the edges. Here's some reference pics so you can see what i'm talking about.
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad200/p8ntballsniper87/DSC01387.jpg
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad200/p8ntballsniper87/DSC01388-1.jpg
As you can see, there're still several spots where you can see the squares from the folds in the paper, and obviously the two bulbous sections on the side still have square corners. I've been trying to find some tutorials for the bondo/sand part of this, but all I can seem to find are tutorials that say "mix the bondo, then using your spatula/spreader, apply it to the part"
Does anyone have an advice, or know of a tutorial that can help me with the issue I'm having?
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad200/p8ntballsniper87/DSC01387.jpg
http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad200/p8ntballsniper87/DSC01388-1.jpg
As you can see, there're still several spots where you can see the squares from the folds in the paper, and obviously the two bulbous sections on the side still have square corners. I've been trying to find some tutorials for the bondo/sand part of this, but all I can seem to find are tutorials that say "mix the bondo, then using your spatula/spreader, apply it to the part"
Does anyone have an advice, or know of a tutorial that can help me with the issue I'm having?
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