"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

[Katsu]

1) Just wear clothes you won't miss being ruined. You will inevitably get resin on a shirt or pants, and they now become work pants forever! If you are worried, you could go buy some cheap-o pants and shirt, or just use something you won't miss. When you resin, keep a change nearby, because the clothes you resin in will stink for a few hours after.

2) You do apply resin like a paint after you mix it with the hardener. The first layer on the outside and inside should be JUST resin, but in order to harden the helmet you HAVE to use fiberglass cloth/mat with the resin. The resin is pretty fragile on its own, you will be amazed at the different between just resin and resin + fiberglass.

3) You should paint a thin layer on the outside, and maybe a layer on the inside (it helps, but isn't necessary). If you are feeling ambitious, you could pour rondo in the inside first, and then fiberglass it. The resin will hide all of the detailed areas of the helmet, to make laying the fiberglass mat a lot easier, but it is an extra step, and if you cut the fiberglass small enough you don't have to do the rondo, it will just take longer.

 

[MousieGuy]

Okay, I have another set of questions (Sorry for the bombardment)

1. Is bondo toxic?

2. Should I get fiberglass mat or cloth, will it matter?

3. If I use rondo, should I still use the fiberglass sheets with it aswell?

 

[Katsu]

We are here to help!

1) Yes, not AS toxic as resin, but still bad enough you need a respirator
2) It matters, but it matters for personal preference. I like cloth because it's cleaner and safer to use. A lot of people like to use mat because it lays down on corners easier. They're about the same price, but if your store has a lower price on one over the other (A worthwhile savings, not a few cents).
3) My personal suggestion is to do this:
- 1) pour rondo all on the inside of the helmet. This smooths the inside and fills in the detailed areas of the helmet that fiberglass can't reach.
- 2) lay 2 layers of fiberglass
- 3) Rondo over the fiberglass

This gives you a smooth but strong interior. Some people only rondo, but honestly it's brittle and not strong enough for wearing. Fiberglass is strong, but won't lay easily in detailed helmets, this method gives the best of both worlds, and is one I've seen several veterans use (Where I got the idea from).

 

[MousieGuy]

-Point of reference to any other Australians looking to buy resin and Bondo -

We do have fiberglass resin pretty much in every bunnings and in big supply with MKEP.
Bondo is an American brand and is not sold in bunnings, I searched everywhere.

-Questions-
Because I wasn't able to get the Bondo. I purchased a Multipurpose filler. Edit: (I also found out that it is not toxic.)
I was told it's smooth and suitable enough for the helmet. I just want to confirm that using this is totally fine.
Parafix Multipurpose filler - ready mixed : http://www.parfix.com.au/products/live/114/20.asp

 

[Katsu]

That's like spackle. It might work, you'll have to try it to be sure though.

here is an article on the bondo in australia discussion:
http://www.mp3car.com/fabrication/85733-bondo-in-australia.html

The reason people use "automotive body filler" (the name you should be searching for it under), is that it is "sands like wood, strong as steel" The strength is pretty good for as easy as it is to work with, the spackle you got might not have good strength, but who knows? Gotta try it out to know for sure! Good luck

 

[MousieGuy]

Hmm. Also, I don't know if It's appropriate to post about the primer but I purchased a grey primer to see all my mistakes and sand over them. Is it okay to prime then layer more then prime again? Should there be no problem?

 

[Satchmo III]

Hmm. Also, I don't know if It's appropriate to post about the primer but I purchased a grey primer to see all my mistakes and sand over them. Is it okay to prime then layer more then prime again? Should there be no problem?

After one or two sessions of bondo/sanding or detail work I like to paint with primer. For me this usually means that I paint after I'm all done with work for the day. Then when I come back for the next time session I assess where I'm at and if I lightly sand the piece I can tell where low spots exist because sanding won't remove paint from low spots as easily. The low spots can then be filled in with bondo (or whatever comparable material you have) and sanded after it cures. I find that looking at the flat covered piece keeps me motivated.

If you'll be sanding the paint primer often you'll want a paint that sands fairly easily and won't clog your sand paper too much. You'll have to try out your paint.

I've noticed you've been asking a lot of pre-work questions and know that you are always welcome to ask them, MousieGuy, but as a general note and suggestion, some of the fun of this hobby is just getting in there and trying things out. If you have an idea, experiment with it. Whether or not something works, you'll appreciate the lesson more if its learned by doing. Many people here do this and are kind enough to report their findings (good or bad) in their build threads so that others may read about them. It's always okay to make mistakes...typically they can be fixed and if not you'll know what not to do the next time around. Don't let hesitation stop you from proceeding.

 

[MousieGuy]

After one or two sessions of bondo/sanding or detail work I like to paint with primer. For me this usually means that I paint after I'm all done with work for the day. Then when I come back for the next time session I assess where I'm at and if I lightly sand the piece I can tell where low spots exist because sanding won't remove paint from low spots as easily. The low spots can then be filled in with bondo (or whatever comparable material you have) and sanded after it cures. I find that looking at the flat covered piece keeps me motivated.

If you'll be sanding the paint primer often you'll want a paint that sands fairly easily and won't clog your sand paper too much. You'll have to try out your paint.

I've noticed you've been asking a lot of pre-work questions and know that you are always welcome to ask them, MousieGuy, but as a general note and suggestion, some of the fun of this hobby is just getting in there and trying things out. If you have an idea, experiment with it. Whether or not something works, you'll appreciate the lesson more if its learned by doing. Many people here do this and are kind enough to report their findings (good or bad) in their build threads so that others may read about them. It's always okay to make mistakes...typically they can be fixed and if not you'll know what not to do the next time around. Don't let hesitation stop you from proceeding.

I get what you're saying. I have also been generally slow with the work. I just want to make sure I do it right on time so that I can get the helmet signed by RoosterTeeth next month. I guess it's all part of the fun to try though ;D

 

[Disturbed Shifty]

I decided to look up fiber glass supplies on Amazon. I came across a 50 yard roll of two inch, six ounce fiber glass cloth and then it suggested I bundle it with AeroMarine 300/21 Epoxy Resin 1.5 Gallon. What I was wondering is if this would be a good buy, in terms of price and if it is the right material?

 

[CoolC]

That's quite expensive if you ask me. I got mine from US Composite.

For fiberglass roll. Scroll all the way to the bottom screen here.
http://www.uscomposites.com/cloth.html

And for resin, I bought 2 1 gallon can of General Purpose Resin.

http://www.uscomposites.com/polyesters.html

Both added are a fraction of the cost of what you can get from Amazon.

 

[Disturbed Shifty]

That's quite expensive if you ask me. I got mine from US Composite.

For fiberglass roll. Scroll all the way to the bottom screen here.
http://www.uscomposites.com/cloth.html

And for resin, I bought 2 1 gallon can of General Purpose Resin.

http://www.uscomposites.com/polyesters.html

Both added are a fraction of the cost of what you can get from Amazon.

Sweet. Glad I asked before committing to buying. I will look into that once I get to a computer. (On my phone right now.)

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus

 

[Katsu]

Are you located in the states? Have you checked out nearby retailers yet, because some of the shipping rates can get pretty high online.

 

[Disturbed Shifty]

Are you located in the states? Have you checked out nearby retailers yet, because some of the shipping rates can get pretty high online.

Yeah I am actually, Colorado to be exact. And I haven't check local retailers yet. My experience with buying things like this is that they are USUALLY cheaper online. So that is why I am looking into online pricing first so I have a baseline to compare it too. I am trying to do as much homework on this before actually starting a set of armor. So any info is a big plus.

 

[MousieGuy]

Sorry for the questions but, I'd like to know whether the fiberglass mat and Resin is toxic when dry. I'll be moving the helmet around alot and I want to know whether I should box it up, or if it's okay to bring it with me by hand.

 

[SkullBoy13]

Hey guys... I just wanted to ask, what does resin normally smells like? cause before i got the proper resin, i was using wood varnish(only thing it does is waterproof the pep) and it had no smell... now i got some new kind of resin it really smelled a lot, even when it cures.. What should i do with the smell? is that normal?

 

[Katsu]

Sorry for the questions but, I'd like to know whether the fiberglass mat and Resin is toxic when dry. I'll be moving the helmet around alot and I want to know whether I should box it up, or if it's okay to bring it with me by hand.

The resin is toxic all the time, throughout the entire process. The mat is never toxic, just dangerous because it can flake out, and you can breath in glass shards, which is obviously not fun.

Once the resin is fully dried/cured/hardened, though, it is safe to touch, the fumes are the only really dangerous part once it's dried. But I wouldn't have it touch my face for a long period of time dry or not.

To be safe, I strongly suggest buying a box of latex or nitrile gloves, they run about $10 for 100-150. The wet resin is dangerous to touch, and doesn't wash off, so the gloves will protect you, as it is VERY hard to handle the stuff without getting it on your hands.

Hey guys... I just wanted to ask, what does resin normally smells like? cause before i got the proper resin, i was using wood varnish(only thing it does is waterproof the pep) and it had no smell... now i got some new kind of resin it really smelled a lot, even when it cures.. What should i do with the smell? is that normal?

Resin will reek like the high heavens, that's why it's so physically strong and good. I've aired out my helmet for a good couple months and it still has a faint stink to it. If you want to fast track the odor elimination, I like to spray a heavy coat of a thick primer paint on the inside of the helmet. The outside will be getting a lot of paint anyways. But a thick primer will seal the resin off.

You should never be able to smell the resin while it's wet, because you SHOULD be wearing a respirator to protect you from the carcinogenic part of it. Once it's cured, it's "safer", but I would definitely seal it off.

 

[SkullBoy13]

Resin will reek like the high heavens, that's why it's so physically strong and good. I've aired out my helmet for a good couple months and it still has a faint stink to it. If you want to fast track the odor elimination, I like to spray a heavy coat of a thick primer paint on the inside of the helmet. The outside will be getting a lot of paint anyways. But a thick primer will seal the resin off.

You should never be able to smell the resin while it's wet, because you SHOULD be wearing a respirator to protect you from the carcinogenic part of it. Once it's cured, it's "safer", but I would definitely seal it off.

so how long would it take if I was't going to use some primer? and another question, when I was fiberglassing my helm, the fiberglass was kinda sticking on the brush like a spider web or something like that, is that okay?

I am wearing a respirator when I'm resining, well its kinda hard not to smell it afterwards... but I'm always making sure nothing bad happens to me while resining

 

[Katsu]

so how long would it take if I was't going to use some primer? and another question, when I was fiberglassing my helm, the fiberglass was kinda sticking on the brush like a spider web or something like that, is that okay?

I am wearing a respirator when I'm resining, well its kinda hard not to smell it afterwards... but I'm always making sure nothing bad happens to me while resining

The resin... I don't know if it will ever get fully clean smelling. If you don't wanna paint you could do a layer of rondo, which smells a lot less badly than just resin.

The fiberglass mat will stick to the brush, especially if it's fiberglass mat. Cloth is tightly woven so it doesn't fray as easily. It's fine either way, you should be using disposable brushes regardless.

I wanted to be sure you were wearing the mask during resin! Afterwards, there's not much to do about it except at least let it air out for one day, so it's not super overpowering.

 

[SkullBoy13]

The resin... I don't know if it will ever get fully clean smelling. If you don't wanna paint you could do a layer of rondo, which smells a lot less badly than just resin.

The fiberglass mat will stick to the brush, especially if it's fiberglass mat. Cloth is tightly woven so it doesn't fray as easily. It's fine either way, you should be using disposable brushes regardless.

I wanted to be sure you were wearing the mask during resin! Afterwards, there's not much to do about it except at least let it air out for one day, so it's not super overpowering.

Okay dude got it thanks alot!!!

 

[BiffyBob]

I saw a video on youtube a while back and it said that you could put a layer of spray glue down first inside the helmet to help keep your fiberglass in place before you resin it. Does this have any affect on the rigidity of the fiberglass or it adhering to the helmet? I just dont know what the glue would due because its another layer between the cardstock and the resin.