"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

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In my experiences at least, resin will stink for a very long time. It took my ODST helmet a month before it wasn't permeating odors, and even now still has a bit of a smell when it's worn. What I find works well is to just seal the stuff. Once you are satisfied with the inside, get a good thick primer paint (I'd imagine waterproof ones would seal better) and hose the inside with it, and let it cure overnight. I did that one my MkV and it just smells faintly of paint, which is a lot better than toxic resins.


I thoughtI did something wrong do are the any other odd things to be expected? And If iharden my weapons can I fill them with rondo or something else?
 
Nothing else I can think of to be wary of.. It has a weird strength to layers ratio? Two layers of fiberglass is good for making it solid, three or more will strengthen it, but not by as much as the difference between 0 -> 1, and 1 -> 2. Especially compared to the weight 3+ layers add. I do personally do three, but I have certain needs that call for it. If you want to wear the helmet, 1 or 2 thin layers of rondo and two layers of fiberglass will be the least straining on your neck.

For weapons it all depends on your needs. I am pretty sure we just discussed it, but yeah, rondo fill is the easiest way to harden a weapon, but be sure not to drop it.
 
Nothing else I can think of to be wary of.. It has a weird strength to layers ratio? Two layers of fiberglass is good for making it solid, three or more will strengthen it, but not by as much as the difference between 0 -> 1, and 1 -> 2. Especially compared to the weight 3+ layers add. I do personally do three, but I have certain needs that call for it. If you want to wear the helmet, 1 or 2 thin layers of rondo and two layers of fiberglass will be the least straining on your neck.

For weapons it all depends on your needs. I am pretty sure we just discussed it, but yeah, rondo fill is the easiest way to harden a weapon, but be sure not to drop it.

Alright thanks, sorry.
 
Hey redshirt! You're a Star Trek fan, aren't you! I'll make sure they put one of your suit on when they put you in the ground...or wall... unless you want flames? Then, I'll take your stuff, lol!

I know I'm going to be asking this late when I get there. How do you peps put the visor in the helmet>?


Raziel,
Sorry to take so long to get back. I love FPS games in general, and Halo in particular, but I suck. My kids (and everyone else) kick my a$$ at every corner. As I'm almost always the first to die, Redshirt was a logical choice for an XBOX handle. I'm actually Redshirt98 there.

I prefer to hot glue in visors. It flexes and can be warmed to remove or reposition the visor without marring the surface. Elmers glue can work as well. The short of this is that I try to avoid using any solvent or epoxy based glues near the visor.

Redshirt
 
Pepakura in an apartment is pretty much impossible. Resin/fiberglass will ruin the house more than bondo. There are no other good ways to harden the cardstock. I'd either find a garage, or maybe look into foam if you can only do it inside.

Bondo is skippable, but it will leave the piece looking polygonal, not a HUGE deal but for perfectionists can look bad. You do need to rondo or fiberglass the inside, and both will stink up the house.
 
Pepakura in an apartment is pretty much impossible. Resin/fiberglass will ruin the house more than bondo. There are no other good ways to harden the cardstock. I'd either find a garage, or maybe look into foam if you can only do it inside.

Bondo is skippable, but it will leave the piece looking polygonal, not a HUGE deal but for perfectionists can look bad. You do need to rondo or fiberglass the inside, and both will stink up the house.

Well im gonna use Smooth Cast 321 not fiberglass resin so the resining is not a problem plus I'm gonna put newspaper and cardboard every where just in case of any spills
Thanks for the answer
 
I have a weapon prop made from corrugated plastic boards and I'm looking for non-toxic alternatives to fill the holes and gaps made from the corrugation. Any ideas?
 
I have a weapon prop made from corrugated plastic boards and I'm looking for non-toxic alternatives to fill the holes and gaps made from the corrugation. Any ideas?

You could probably try aqua-resin, I've never actually used it, but apparently its just non-toxic fiberglass resin. If you can find it, it might be worth a try.
 
I'm looking for something more local and and the nearest supplier ov Aquaresin is way too down south for me to reach.

Besides, I'm looking for filler not reinforcement.
 
Besides, I'm looking for filler not reinforcement.
Ah, ok. I dont know exactly what kind of material you're using, but if the corregation on it is similar to cardboard, you could probably just fill it with hot glue. I do that all the time when I do cardboard scratch builds. It would probably work pretty well.
 
Ah okay, that's what people recommended from what I read but can hot glue smooth the edge if I have 6 slices stacked?
 
Sik! You ignore me so much!

But you can also just use wood... then you don't need to worry about filling in the crevasses. It's a bit harder to cut initially, but the results are pretty good, depending on the situation. Just a random idea to toss into the mix.

For filling, smooth-on has some non toxic products to try as well.
 
Sik! You ignore me so much!

But you can also just use wood... then you don't need to worry about filling in the crevasses. It's a bit harder to cut initially, but the results are pretty good, depending on the situation. Just a random idea to toss into the mix.

For filling, smooth-on has some non toxic products to try as well.


Smooth-on does have things for filling, but its generally pretty expensive and he said he was looking for local stuff. The wood is a really good idea though, I'd bet that getting a thin sheet of plywood or fiberboard then cutting it to cover the corrugation would work quite well. And with hot glue, you don't so much fill the corrugation, its more used to seal off the holes flatly. the glue has such a low viscosity that it will actually sit on top of the holes, then you just use the tip of the gun to flatten it out.
 
I was under the impression he lived near TAP plastics, which is a fantastic resource for such things. Well, be it wood cardboard or chemicals, I do hope we've sparked some inspiration for him! Go team!
 
I have a weapon prop made from corrugated plastic boards and I'm looking for non-toxic alternatives to fill the holes and gaps made from the corrugation. Any ideas?

Cheaper and faster than hot glue would be vinyl or silicone caulking at any home center. Get one that is water clean-up AND, most importantly, is paintable. Water clean-up will let you smooth it with a wet finger as it cures as it will not generally be sandable when cured.

Redshirt
 
Cheaper and faster than hot glue would be vinyl or silicone caulking at any home center. Get one that is water clean-up AND, most importantly, is paintable. Water clean-up will let you smooth it with a wet finger as it cures as it will not generally be sandable when cured.

Redshirt
This is actually a way better idea than hot glue. Also, if you use acrylic caulk instead of vinyl or silicone, it would dry solid and you could easily sand and paint it. Sik if youre ok with a little smell from the caulk, then id probably be your best bet. (its not toxic, it just gives off an odor thats pretty similar to that of vinegar)
 
I was under the impression he lived near TAP plastics, which is a fantastic resource for such things. Well, be it wood cardboard or chemicals, I do hope we've sparked some inspiration for him! Go team!

I don't live close at all, It's just because it's near our school lol

But yeah thanks a lot for the suggestions guys, I'll try to look for those things when I go out.
 
Just a quick question for those who do this process

I don’t have a specific work shop since I live in an apartment but I do have an outside closet. And was planning to do the work outside for the Hardening process I was thinking of keeping the items outside in the closet for a day or so but didn’t want to store it out there for too long do to the humidity

Any recommendations on how long would be a good time for the items before I can store it inside.
 
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