"Help!" for: Foam
- Thread starter Carpathia
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Welcome to 405th and your in the right place for help with foam 
Just follow the links in my signature and I've got some tutorials there for help with foam, you can also find Drack on here, he's got some tutorials and a general search of YouTube should turn up some results.
Good luck
Just follow the links in my signature and I've got some tutorials there for help with foam, you can also find Drack on here, he's got some tutorials and a general search of YouTube should turn up some results.
Good luck
Hello, I am also new to foam. I have been watching tutorials and have a good idea of how to start my project. I have got my hands on foam templates for the specific armor pieces that I would like to make. My next step is getting the supplies. What stores (not webstores) carry the 1/4 in EVA foam products and foamies? I will be visiting Joann Fabrics to check for these materials. Also what different thicknesses should I purchase? I assume that i should have the base of my armor be 1/4 in thick EVA and the detail work with thinner foam. If anyone could answer my questions i would greatly appreciate it.
Jason 078
Well-Known Member
Most people use the gym-floor style mats. They are typically at Harbor Freight, but Fred Meyer and Wal-Mart also carry them. They are usually 3'x3' interlocking mats. Some people also use the lighter workout mat style, but those won't stand up to the same abuse and should be used for flexible parts only (typically joints).
Quazar355, like Jason-078 said, Harbor Freight carry EVA foam mats in packs of four and they're 1/2 inch thick. Harbor Freight would seem to have the best deals at 15$ per pack or less compared to the average 20$ packs sold else where. As for the foamies (or craft foam), I use 2mm, 3mm and 5mm thick sheets which work well for a variety of purposes when detailing my armor. I buy the 3mm and 5mm sheets for 1$ each at Hobbylobby and I buy 2mm craft foam in rolls at Michael's for 8$.
I hope this helps you get a good start your foam build!
I hope this helps you get a good start your foam build!
Aescapulius
New Member
I've been looking at foam sealants and think I've found a brushable waterproofer from Crommelin that I'm considering in place of Plastidip, mainly because of its cost and availability, and wanted to know if anyone saw any potential issues or dangers before I went out and purchased it?
Obviously I plan on doing some tests to see how it takes paint and its flexibility, but if someone wants to volunteer any info or previous experience, that'd be awesome!
Obviously I plan on doing some tests to see how it takes paint and its flexibility, but if someone wants to volunteer any info or previous experience, that'd be awesome!
A mannequin can be useful but maybe not entirely necessary, I plan on building a duct tape dummy to help me build the abdominal portions of my costume since it's hard to gauge the distances from the bottom of my chest piece to top of my cod piece without difficulties. I say it wouldn't hurt to have one.
If you decide to go with some kind of mannequin or dummy, this might help you get started.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/19547-Duct-Tape-Dummy-Tutorial?highlight=duct+tape+dummy
If you decide to go with some kind of mannequin or dummy, this might help you get started.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/19547-Duct-Tape-Dummy-Tutorial?highlight=duct+tape+dummy
Seth Knight
Well-Known Member
Alright, time for an over asked question. How thick should the foam be for a Mass Effect N7 armor build? I'm not doing it, my brother is hoping to sometime down the road and I don't want to steer him wrong, also, besides craft foam (foamies) which is the best for helmets? (just because I'm planning to make a Bane mask, and the half inch stuff I have is a PAIN to work with.).
Thanks for looking.
-Seth
Thanks for looking.
-Seth
Not sure there's a right answer coz its mostly personal preference.
Tbh I've used 12, 10 & 8mm foam. If its the ability to create detail easily then 8mm but though its easy to work with its not very strong, so is say use 10mm for strength and a good base for the shape then build up with craft foam and a dremel for detail.
Tbh I've used 12, 10 & 8mm foam. If its the ability to create detail easily then 8mm but though its easy to work with its not very strong, so is say use 10mm for strength and a good base for the shape then build up with craft foam and a dremel for detail.
Seth Knight
Well-Known Member
But mostly stay under the dreaded 2 inch (13 mm stuff)? I really wish I had more variety in my area, for the most part i can only find Goldmember gym mats for foam (it's why I really haven't gotten into it). So, mostly use 10 mm? Anyway, thanks for the reply DBmike.
-Seth
-Seth
Yh probably use 10mm but if you can live with it being more flexible then use 8mm. Saying that if use 8mm and also craft foam, once you PlastiDip it and paint it, it'll probably become a bit more rigid. I'm thinking about covering this stuff in my next video because its a question that comes up a fair bit.
Tigersgrace
Member
So i have a really weird question. Has anyone ever tried to glue cardstock paper to the outside of foam and then resin it, instead of plastidiping? I'm just starting to use foam for my MKV suit (much thanks to DBmike and Roxyroo for inspiration!). Is this a viable option?
I wouldn't recommend it. The resin will likely eat away at it, the heat alone may well melt through it.
I could be wrong. You should do a test piece and get back to us with the results.
Have you seen the method of plastic coating foam? It is foam friendly (obviously) and gives you a nice hard shell as resin might.
And glad I've been able to help/inspire you buddy
I could be wrong. You should do a test piece and get back to us with the results.
Have you seen the method of plastic coating foam? It is foam friendly (obviously) and gives you a nice hard shell as resin might.
And glad I've been able to help/inspire you buddy
Tigersgrace
Member
I wouldn't recommend it. The resin will likely eat away at it, the heat alone may well melt through it.
I could be wrong. You should do a test piece and get back to us with the results.
Have you seen the method of plastic coating foam? It is foam friendly (obviously) and gives you a nice hard shell as resin might.
And glad I've been able to help/inspire you buddy
Do you have a link for plastic coating foam? I was looking for it and all i can find is the glue and plasti-dip method. I will do a test piece today and post a pic on here to show the outcome.
zombienoms
New Member
Smooth On Products for plastic coating
I'm looking to plastic coat my armor, I've looked into the process and I was going to use a PVA base and then smooth on products for the plastic outer layer (method from xrobots). My question comes from the smooth on itself. Xrobots uses 65D, but smooth on 300 is more easily available. Can I use 300 instead of 65D and not have major issue? I hear that 300 is more brittle or hard but I figured a few coats might help. I want to wear the armor around, sit and move without worrying it's going to snap.
Can I coat using smooth on 300 instead of 65D or is it best to go through the effort to get 65d?
I'm looking to plastic coat my armor, I've looked into the process and I was going to use a PVA base and then smooth on products for the plastic outer layer (method from xrobots). My question comes from the smooth on itself. Xrobots uses 65D, but smooth on 300 is more easily available. Can I use 300 instead of 65D and not have major issue? I hear that 300 is more brittle or hard but I figured a few coats might help. I want to wear the armor around, sit and move without worrying it's going to snap.
Can I coat using smooth on 300 instead of 65D or is it best to go through the effort to get 65d?
Look forward to seeing those results mate, here's the link to Xrobots for the plastic coating
http://www.xrobots.co.uk/coating/
Zombienoms- sadly I can't answer you but I know that if you message James on YouTube, his website or by finding him on RPF he will answer you.
Tigersgrace
Member
Thanks mike! that was very informative...i should be able to do that test piece when the kids take their naps....i hope it doesnt melt...lol
also for the PVA glue, could i just use a glue stick and rub the piece down?
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