"Help!" for: Misc...
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TheMagicNumber
New Member
Cutting Visor...
Hey Guys & Gals,
I need a little advice for cutting a second visor for the dual visor look on a MK VI Mjolnir helm.
When I cut my last one it didnt give me perfect, clean cuts..it melted a little and I don't want that to happen on the face as it's gonna be in plain view. I'm assuming less cutting speed will do away with this, but do any other members that have done this have any tips?
Thanks
Hey Guys & Gals,
I need a little advice for cutting a second visor for the dual visor look on a MK VI Mjolnir helm.
When I cut my last one it didnt give me perfect, clean cuts..it melted a little and I don't want that to happen on the face as it's gonna be in plain view. I'm assuming less cutting speed will do away with this, but do any other members that have done this have any tips?
Thanks
I've not gotten to that point yet, but from reading other threads it's best to use a toothed cutting blade rather than one of the wheels that often come with the dremel. Those can cause the heat warping/melting you described. But if you were already using a toothed blade then someone more experienced will have to chime in with ideas.
GuitarMaster157
Member
PM Redshirt or Cereal, they'll know what to do.
I am having an issue with figuring out how to light the vents in the detail pieces on the lower parts of the thighs. I did a few searches to try to find any advice on this subject, but I haven't had any luck.
So far, I have quite a few lights on the suit already, which are just LEDs wired to 9Vs. The problem with the knees is that this method won't work, as there isn't any space to use the same "angle" method I've used in the past:
The light on the left was made using a typical method: 1. cut out the light area, 2. glue in semi-opaque surface, 3. wire and aim LED at that surface. However, since the knee grooves are not situated in such a way that you can do this, I'm stumped. Can it be done without buying anything super expensive?
So far, I have quite a few lights on the suit already, which are just LEDs wired to 9Vs. The problem with the knees is that this method won't work, as there isn't any space to use the same "angle" method I've used in the past:
The light on the left was made using a typical method: 1. cut out the light area, 2. glue in semi-opaque surface, 3. wire and aim LED at that surface. However, since the knee grooves are not situated in such a way that you can do this, I'm stumped. Can it be done without buying anything super expensive?
TheMagicNumber
New Member
Thanks Halex.
Sentri
Active Member
not sure how well it would work, but what if you positioned the light higher up on the inside where it will fit, then cut out an area down to the slot, and angle a mirror about 45 degrees to get it to reflect out the front. (no idea if it would actually work or not, have never done it myself)
AGENTREGENT
New Member
Hi guys I'm new here, and I was wondering if anyone could scale some PDF pepakura files for me since i only have a Mac. I'm 5'7" and I'm going to be doing a full Master chief halo 3 build. Also if any of you have PDFs for halo weapons, that'd be great! thanks guys!
Hey AGENTREGENT!
Im still a noob, at this, and I, too, did not understand scaling; however there are absolutely brilliant threads out there that will totally assist you in scaling your very own armour. I mean, how cool would it be to tell everyone you made your very own Master Chief armour all by yourself? =D
Heres the thread I used, and trust me .. its totally elementary! ^.^ After a quick read, youll totally understand.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/25588-How-to-Scale-Your-Armour-Tutorial-V.2
Im still a noob, at this, and I, too, did not understand scaling; however there are absolutely brilliant threads out there that will totally assist you in scaling your very own armour. I mean, how cool would it be to tell everyone you made your very own Master Chief armour all by yourself? =D
Heres the thread I used, and trust me .. its totally elementary! ^.^ After a quick read, youll totally understand.
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/25588-How-to-Scale-Your-Armour-Tutorial-V.2
Sentri
Active Member
Agentregent,
I can see what I can do to help you out. I've got some extra time on my hands, and I'm sure Pepkura wouldn't be too hard to figure out (especially with the linked tutorial, I'm still kinda new with it). I also have a PDF writer on my computer. I could have it to you no later than this weekend.
I, myself, am going with a MC Halo 3 build in order to make Tex from Red Vs Blue, and you are pretty much the same height as me, so it works out pretty well.
~Chaos
Sentri
Active Member
Sorry for the double post, but this is actually a question, not a response. What is the chespest (cost wise) for materials? Foam or cardstock and resin?
I like the thought of foam because I can work on this year round (I'm in Michigan), but papercrafting seems a bit easier to work with. Cost is also a major issue with me. I'd like to keep this whole thing under 300 if possible, which might be possible since I already own entire undersuit, and helmet (thanks to Rlux customs).
I guess the actual more accurate question would be what would work better for a total noob like myself? I'm actually looking for a backup plan in case the original falls through.
I like the thought of foam because I can work on this year round (I'm in Michigan), but papercrafting seems a bit easier to work with. Cost is also a major issue with me. I'd like to keep this whole thing under 300 if possible, which might be possible since I already own entire undersuit, and helmet (thanks to Rlux customs).
I guess the actual more accurate question would be what would work better for a total noob like myself? I'm actually looking for a backup plan in case the original falls through.
ChaosDynasty, While I don't know anything about Cardstock and Resin builds and their costs, I've got some experience with foam and can tell you that the entry costs to get everything you'll need for building foam costumes can get a little up there. For example, picking up the tools will make a considerable dent in a 300$ budget. My hot glue gun kit cost 25$, heat gun 15$ and my dremel was 50$. Not to mention the cost of Exacto blades, which if you use them, I'd suggest ordering them online in bulk packs of 100 for 25$, but I think there are alternatives tools for cutting foam. The foam itself can be pretty cheap though depending on where you live, Harbor Freight stores have 4 packs of EVA foam tiles usually for 15$ but can be on sale for less. I would also recommend buying various thicknesses of craft foam for detailing your builds, these usually cost 1$ per sheet and there are even rolls of 2mm thick foam for 8$ which is what I use. You can usually find this at hobbyshops like Michael's and Hobbylobby. Attaching craft foam requires a spray adhesive for a cleaner, smoother result, which can cost anywhere for 8$ to 12$. Lastly, Plastidip and paint, Plastidip is used for hardening foam costumes and the spray version costs around 6$ a can, while of course paint prices vary. So overall a foam build could cost around the 350$ range and perhaps up, excluding the cost of extra tools and materials and visor construction costs.
I think foam is a great building method though, the entire build will last longer than the average cardstock and resin build and doesn't have nearly the amount of toxic and hazardous fumes and the like. Getting the hang of building with foam isn't all that hard either and it's actually quite fun, barring hot glue burns and such, so be careful! I hope this helps you get an idea of everything that goes into a foam build and help you plan your build!
I think foam is a great building method though, the entire build will last longer than the average cardstock and resin build and doesn't have nearly the amount of toxic and hazardous fumes and the like. Getting the hang of building with foam isn't all that hard either and it's actually quite fun, barring hot glue burns and such, so be careful! I hope this helps you get an idea of everything that goes into a foam build and help you plan your build!
Obligatory apology for re-asking a potentially hashed out question--I've been searching all day and can't find a good answer:
What's proper etiquette for using .pdo models? I'm looking into doing some 3D Printing (likely miniatures at first, maybe up to armor pieces later), and know that I can export .pdo's as .obj's and then modify them from there. I could also see how this would be frowned upon by the people that have put so much effort and time into these models, and I definitely don't want to commit any faux pas... Any advice?
What's proper etiquette for using .pdo models? I'm looking into doing some 3D Printing (likely miniatures at first, maybe up to armor pieces later), and know that I can export .pdo's as .obj's and then modify them from there. I could also see how this would be frowned upon by the people that have put so much effort and time into these models, and I definitely don't want to commit any faux pas... Any advice?
GhostAvenger
New Member
I'm also looking at 3d printing armor parts in the future. I haven't seen any guidance on modifying models for the purpose of 3d printing.
I would presume it is okay to split the model to fit on your printer I don't know about making any changes to the model itself. (no reposting and claiming it as your own work of course)
Necrogenesis
Member
You upload them to photobucket or another image dump then link the image in the script here like this
Necrogenesis
Member
Lawls. Be happy they give us space for a 100 messages let alone pics! 
Carpathia
Sr Member
Yeah, clicking on that photos tab, then pasting the URL of the image will automatically set up the format that Necrogenesis mentioned. I still find myself typing it manually, though.
BlueFreeze128
Member
Hey! I'm just looking for an alternative and I've looked through at least 10 pages and i didn't find an answer to my question but is there another way to make the details on my helmet not using a dremel? anything else that won't cost me $100. Thanks!
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