"Help!" for: Misc...

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Hi! I'm currently on the visor mounting stage and i'm doing a mix of Blackula's and Vshore's tutorials but I don't know what kind of drill I should use, I have one it's just my family uses it morefor drilling into walls and I don't know if I need a special drill bit for it, any helpp would be great thanks!
 
Are you worried about what drill to use for drilling a hole into the visor? I just used a normal drill and bit (the same one I drill holes in the wall when doing home maintenance) for my own visor, no problems at all.
 
Really? Ok thank you so much! I was worried about drilling the hole into the visor because I don't want to shatter the visor by doing so lol thanks again!
 
Not sure if this is the right thread, but the molding one seemed to be more for casting, not vacuum forming. But anyway, anyone have any tips on vacuum forming acrylic and poly carbonate? This would be done at home in a gas oven, with a shop vac and a homemade vacuum forming rig. The polycarbonate would be 0.09 inches thick, and the acrylic would be 0.125 (1/8th) inches thick. I'm just looking for temperatures and tricks that can increase part quality.
 
There was actually a discussion about this earlier this week:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/39945-Vacuum-forming-and-mould-making-question

The short answer is, bake the acrylic for 1-2 hours at around 100 degrees before heating it to vacuum forming temperatures. The acrylic is hydroscopic and sucks water in from the air which is why it's so difficult to vacuum form. If you don't it will bubble and boil like this:
odst02.jpg

(It's supposed to be transparent smoke color, you can see the mesh of my machine on the edges of the plastic where it didn't get hot enough to boil out)

As for vac temps, I never use real numbers, I personally go by feel and look, when it droops to a certain degree and bounces enough when you push on it. Definitely run a few practice pulls on polystyrene, PETG or some other cheap-o plastic to make sure the buck is good to go.
 
Not sure if anyone asked this before. how do other people make the air tube thing on the mjolnier helmet? the ones on the sides/front of the helmet. I'm having a bit of trouble with it myself.
 
How can i bind small pices like hip plates or stomach to a belt or something, to make it easier to get them easy to dress up... Or if you have any kind o ideas on how to dress ups easier ( IM SPEAKING ABOUT Halo 3 ODST)
 
Not sure if anyone asked this before. how do other people make the air tube thing on the mjolnier helmet? the ones on the sides/front of the helmet. I'm having a bit of trouble with it myself.

Most people I've seen use split wire loom in the 1 1/2" to 2" range. You might be able to find some corrugated tubing or something that would work as well or better though.
 
Really? Ok thank you so much! I was worried about drilling the hole into the visor because I don't want to shatter the visor by doing so lol thanks again!

I'd like to add my 2 cents on this from prior experience with drilling plastic, and in this case especially due to the mirror finish. I would put masking tape over where you're going to drill. It will provide a "rough" surface for the bit instead of the "slippery" smooth surface (so the bit doesn't wander when starting), it will help against a hole with rough edges (burs), will protect the surrounding area in the event the drill does initially wander (it will mark up the tape instead of the visor), and will be easier to mark the hole location. I remember reading somewhere here, can't remember where, that particular tape must be used as some will ruin the mirror finish.
 
hey guys, I am about half way through my t-45d power armor helmet from fallout. Does anyone have ideas for what I can use for the lenses because the lense spots are much bigger then any sunglasses or anything I have.
 
Hey all, This questions is about taking credit for pieces of work.

Basically I've ripped a game model, a gun, and have been editing it so it is fit for use on pepakura. Merging vertices, removing tirangles, making it a continuous object.
Can I take credit for 'producing' that model?
I haven't built it from the ground up like you would regularly do, but I have added and edited the model to a large extent. does that allow me to put my name on it?
 
Hey all, This questions is about taking credit for pieces of work.

Basically I've ripped a game model, a gun, and have been editing it so it is fit for use on pepakura. Merging vertices, removing tirangles, making it a continuous object.
Can I take credit for 'producing' that model?
I haven't built it from the ground up like you would regularly do, but I have added and edited the model to a large extent. does that allow me to put my name on it?

I would say that you could take credit for "modifying" it rather than producing it. Always give credits to the original modeler (in your case the producers of the game). I've done the same thing with the M6G pistol I released. It was originally modeled by a modeler in the Sketchup 3D Warehouse, and I've given credit accordingly.
 
does anyone know where i can find a version of sketchup that doesnt have the 8 hour trial time? i dont really want to buy it and i know there was a version at some point that was just shareware.

thankyou in advance,
-- edgy pyro
 
Sketchup was free-er when it was owned by google, but since they offloaded it, it seems to be this pay junk. From what I understand there is a stripped down free version, and then the paid full version.

Worst case, you could poke around for an oldversion.
 
im new and i thought jorge's grenadier helmet would be awesome, but i cant find any good download files for pepakura only one is brandon miller or something and it wont let me download it for some reason so links or any help would be appreciated
 
I see three different ones, Forged Reclaimer, Brandon McClain, and Jason02.

They're on the 4shared database, there's a link in my signature for it.
 
hey guys so i finally was able to print my reach helmet and thank you all for your help. :p when i was printing something came up that the tutourials didnt mention. when printing it said should i let pepakura format my printing or document and i clicked yes. my concern is that clicking yes it allowed my armor to be printed with the scaling and measurements? sorry for all the noobtacular questions :p
 
I always choose No for that question. I don't know if it actually rescales or anything, but I never see anything bad when I choose No.

The error message is for when pieces are hanging "off the edge" of the margins, or overlapping, but so long as you do a quick spot check to make sure that's not the case, it should be fine.
 
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