"Help!" for: Painting

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I am painting my M6 SOCOM, and I am trying to figure out which colors would be good to paint the weapon, magazines and bullet in the top of each magazine, both bullet and casing. Any ideas ?


Page 318 of the HALO Encyclopedia shows a brass case with a full metal jacket bullet in brass or copper color. Overall, the round closely resembles the modern .45 cal ball ammo. Ball being the rounded tip full metal jacket. Both colors are well represented by Testors Metalizer paints at Hobby Town--Just realized you're local! PM me.

Redshirt
 
Hi,I am in the process of making a AoT salem mask (gooberz pdo) and for the color scheme on it i wanted to do this http://www.google.com/url?source=im...AoQ8wc&usg=AFQjCNHr7r644aPwSbRh3gRHRDvI_VbIRA


http://www.google.com/url?source=im...AoQ8wc&usg=AFQjCNH3wX3VbPRGTDRndIOu3IDieO8Y8g

But the thing is i'm not a painter,im not good at drawing anything haha.so i was wondering if someone would know where i could find a stencil for it? i mainly just need the teeth and smile,i can work with the rest.Also if there isn't a stencil maybe someone could make one if they don't mind taking the time? Any help would be greatly appreciated


And i'm sorry if this has already been asked but i searched around for awhile and didn't find anything.Thank you.(I don't really know how to post pictures on here because im not very good with forums but please critique me if i failed :))
 
I am not sure exactly what you mean when you say scratch, but if you mean you want the "metal" to show through the white then i can help you with that.
Step 1: Take some mustard from the kitchan, or toothpaste from bathroom.
Step 2: With whatever kind of paste you chose ( i am gonna referter to mustarrd throught this awsner) bring your armor inside, over the kitchen sink.
Step 3: You should have already painted your armor the "metal" color, but not your armor color
Step 4: Take your Mustard, and open the cap.
Step 5: Start put lines of mustard onto your armor of where you want the silver to show through the color of your armor (usually around edges, and high points)
Step 6: Paint your armor however you want to after you put on the mustard (leave the mustard on until you are done painting!)
Step 7: after everything is dry, take a cloth, or paper towl or whatever, and start to wipe off the mustard. it will take a few passes because the mustard will squirt out and other stuff...
Step 8: Make sure you have gotten all the mustard off, and then where the Mustard just was, the silver paint will be showing through!
Step 9 (Not needed): Mix black, grey, and white water based paint (like the apple barrel brand) together in a bowl, add some water, and then take a brush, and just slather it on thickly and quickly. then, quickly wipe it all off with a paper towl, it should leave dark streaks and shadowing..
Step 10: Seal your armor with clear coat!

Hope this helped!

thanks alot this method helped me alot with me Mjolnir mark v helmet...
 
Question: When you black wash, do you have to use dark primer, or can you use black paint. Also, for the first layer of primer, does the primer have to be dark as well, or does it matter?
 
Ok, I'll start by answering your last question first. The color of base primer you use depends on the final color you wish. For lighter colors, a white or light gray primer is recommended; for darker colors (and depending on how dark you really want that final color) you can use a darker primer, but really for darker colors primer color is less of a concern.

Now, on to black washing. There are many differnt mediums you can use for black washing. I think you can use primer (never tested this, if I'm wrong someone step up), you can use black paint; I use black leather dye. What matters in the technique. My technique is to apply two generous coats of clear coat, let that dry/cure over night, then get two rags (one for paint thinner and one for the dye), soak one rag in thinner and wipe some onto a section of the armor, then with the other rag wipe some of the black dye onto the section and quickly wipe the dye off with the thinner-coated rag. This leaves behind a dark residue that gets into cracks, corners and crevices. There are other methods, such as spraying some black paint into a corner and quickly wiping it off, that are just as effective, but with which I am unfamiliar.

Hope this helps a bit.
 
The black washing I use can't be done with primer, as I don't trust primer's interaction with thinner.
You mix about 3 to 10 paint to THINNER in a cup, soak a wide brush in it and brush it over the entire thing. If you want, you can then wipe lightly with a paper towel, or leave it looking grimey and a bit darker. I usually do two layers of this. The thinner makes the paint light and runny enough that is only sticks to crevasses, but you have to be careful because it will also have a tendency to run downwards and get some pools on the bottom of the piece. I did this method for my M6G in my sig.

Different ways! I do mine with Tamiya paints, so that can be a difference too.
 
Thanks, that helps a bit. I may use the black paint method, but I don't know for sure. Katsu, did you mean 3-10 parts paint THINNER to primer, or actual paint? That confused me.
 
You mix a little bit of paint with a lot of thinner. My typo, I'll fix it in the original post, but am making note that I fudged it for posterity's sake.
 
So in an attempt to get a wider pool of input, I'm branching out of my WIP thread with my paint problem. I don't have a whole lot of experience with this and I'm wondering if someone else has a fix for this issue. Also not sure if this is the right place to put this...

So, just when I thought things were going well, and I was going to avoid any huge disaster on this... of course something goes wrong. I somehow managed to get all sorts of paint underneath the tape and it looks like a four year old was trying to color in the lines. D: I also haven't decided if I like the "faded/see-throughish" look of the dark blue either, I think that could be fixed with another coat of paint though.
I'm just not really sure how to go about fixing all the not clean lines... I thought about just making my deigns wider to fix all the "smudges", but I don't want to do that if the same thing is just going to happen again. A friend suggested just taping off everything and spray painting it, but that means a lot more work and buying more paint and my funds are limited for the next month or so. Does anyone have any tips to maybe make this work better? Or maybe a different technique?

Help.jpg
 
If you were using a liquid-y fabric paint, it will seep through parts, especially when it's put on fairly thick. That looks like what happened.
 
If you were using a liquid-y fabric paint, it will seep through parts, especially when it's put on fairly thick. That looks like what happened.
Yeah, I'm starting to think I just got impatient with it last night, and freaked out a little bit when the first layer of paint didn't show up on it at all. I've decided to go ahead and expand the design and try again. And this time be better about waiting for layers to dry, I think not doing it at midnight is probably a better idea too ><
 
You can. It will be ugly, and crack as you wear it.

When you are happy with the look of your foam armor, you want to use plasti-dip to harden it, and then you can paint it.
 
Is there a good way to paint your armor that doesn't include spray paint? its not really an option for me, but i don't wanna brush it on and have brush marks. Does anyone know if those foam sponge ones are any better?
 
I've heard it you appropriately liquefy down the paint and use those foam brushes it can come out fairly even. It's still won't be nearly as smooth as sprayed on though.
 
Question: When splitting pieces (like the forearms and the torso), is it better to paint before the split or after? I would imagine after, in order to paint the actual cuts, but I have seen armors that were painted before split work, so some input would be great.
 
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