"Help!" for: Painting

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What's the best way to get the best edges for the striped down the ODST helmet? I would think that using painters tape wouldn't get a good edge since those helmets are curved.
 
What's the best way to get the best edges for the striped down the ODST helmet? I would think that using painters tape wouldn't get a good edge since those helmets are curved.

I used blue painter's tape for my ODST helmet stripe with no problem.
 
Thanks carpathiavh. :)

Another questionnn: Does anyone have the font for little text details on the ODST armor pieces? Like the font on the chest plate for where it says 'UNSC' and the names. Or do most people hand paint them? I'm a little afraid to hand paint so I'd rather exacto knife a stencil from printed paper.
 
Thanks carpathiavh. :)

Another questionnn: Does anyone have the font for little text details on the ODST armor pieces? Like the font on the chest plate for where it says 'UNSC' and the names. Or do most people hand paint them? I'm a little afraid to hand paint so I'd rather exacto knife a stencil from printed paper.

That's an excellent question, I'm also curious what font people are using to print out those little text bits.
 
im sure this has been asked but im running a little late for work but my suit is completed but when my pieces bump together they kinda sorta chip or scratch....i used 3 layers of clear coat. should i have used more?
 
im sure this has been asked but im running a little late for work but my suit is completed but when my pieces bump together they kinda sorta chip or scratch....i used 3 layers of clear coat. should i have used more?

If you are going for a used/battle damage look, there is no need to used that much clear coat.

I used only 1 "satin" clear coat for my son's suit and it was plenty. It dulls the color and protect the color very well.
 
Yeah, it doesn't really matter how many clear coats you add, if your armor is bumping/rubbing against itself, there will be scratches and chips. There's not much you can do about it other than the occasional repair.
 
In reference to the text question, there are a couple of places im sure google can find that has the text type and files for download. Ill have a look around myself after work and let you guys know what I find.... Ill see if i can add the files or the link in here somewhere



ok well, didnt find much in the way of exact halo styled text but perfection is a matter of personal preference is it not? The latest version of Microsoft Word can have txt files added to it for fonts that contain game and movie based txts try there.
 
hey all i'm looking for a video to learn how to paint a rusted metal effect

is someone have it :)

thx a lot

Unfortunately I'm at my parents for the summer and I've left my paints at home, but I can still help.

You want to start with your nice cleanly painted metal and start to build the rust straight on to it... You start with a purple layer ( Yes that's right purple! ) I tens to use an acrylic paint through an airbrush for the fist stages of the but a brush would work just as well just water it down a little. To mask the areas off I use a combination of Masking tape ( painters tape ) and Vaseline, making a square or rectangle with the tape and then a random shape with the Vaseline - You only need to do this if you're using an airbrush of course - to give that random look of rust creeping over the metal.

Once your purple layer is dry build up a dark red layer using a squirting action with an airbrush you can use a stippling brush to get the same effect - I use a colour called "gore red" from a company called the Games Workshop. Unhelpfully I've just discovered that at some point in the last 3 months they re-named everything... wonderful However, the colour I'm referring to is now called Wazdakka Red. Don't ask. http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/armySubUnitCats.jsp?catId=cat800003a&rootCatGameStyle=
I'm sure you'll be able to find an equivalent at your local hobby shop. They may even sell these.
As that coat is drying I stipple on a coat of Orange using a course brush - again GW paints, and also the brush come to think of it - working from the outside in on all the separate areas. for a more uniform effect wait for the red to dry - these paints dry in minutes rather than hours as well - and leave the very edge alone as you apply each successive layer. Follow that with a coat of lighter orange, and then one of even lighter orange and finally a 1:1 mix of light orange and bright yellow.
Once all of these are completely dry I apply a wash of light brown over the whole area, but Only the rusted areas. this is essentially a light brown paint watered down to the point of being coloured water, this can then be built up in random patches i order to darken parts of the now rusty metal, it can also be dripped into the centre of a rust patch to give a seriously uneven weathered look.
You then want to protect your fantastical sexy rust with a generous seal of either plasti-Dip clear coat or the equivalent. I tend to use matt finish on weapons as most gun metal tends not to shine but that would be your call.
I know It's not a video but hopefully it'll be of use to you.
Feel free to PM me any questions if you have them, and let me know how you get on.
Stu.
 
Thanks carpathiavh. :)

Another questionnn: Does anyone have the font for little text details on the ODST armor pieces? Like the font on the chest plate for where it says 'UNSC' and the names. Or do most people hand paint them? I'm a little afraid to hand paint so I'd rather exacto knife a stencil from printed paper.


I've just sent you and Therabbit a selection of Halo fonts that might be of some use to you. There is also instructions on installing them in one of the folders.
Hope it's what you were after.
Stu.
 
I'm about to start painting, and could use some advice. I know it's best to use paint and primer of the same brand, first of all, but I just want to have some questions answered. I started painting a "test dummy" so I wouldn't accidentally ruin a suit piece. I painted Rustoleum primer, and it turned out great. Then, I used very generic, $1.50 paint my parents got for me for my birthday. One color worked fairly well (blue), while another color (white) didn't work well at all, and instead was quite runny and didn't seem to do any actual painting.

Would this be because the generic paint wasn't working well with the rustoleum (I'm probably going to get rustoleum paint anyways), or was it perhaps because I only applied one thorough coat of primer? Or was it because of the crappy, generic paint itself, and its inability to adhere to the primer?

Some expert input would be of incredible usefulness, so please share your thoughts!
 
I'm about to start painting, and could use some advice. I know it's best to use paint and primer of the same brand, first of all, but I just want to have some questions answered. I started painting a "test dummy" so I wouldn't accidentally ruin a suit piece. I painted Rustoleum primer, and it turned out great. Then, I used very generic, $1.50 paint my parents got for me for my birthday. One color worked fairly well (blue), while another color (white) didn't work well at all, and instead was quite runny and didn't seem to do any actual painting.

Would this be because the generic paint wasn't working well with the rustoleum (I'm probably going to get rustoleum paint anyways), or was it perhaps because I only applied one thorough coat of primer? Or was it because of the crappy, generic paint itself, and its inability to adhere to the primer?

Some expert input would be of incredible usefulness, so please share your thoughts!

You could be running into a number of problems with your white paint. There are three possibilities that I can think of off the top of my head. The first is, yeah, that it's cheap paint and you get what you pay for. The second is the possibility that you didn't shake the can up enough (just a theory on my part); if the paint can has been sitting around for a while and has separated, then it needs to be shaken up quite vigorously for a few minutes to get it all mixed back up. The third possibility, and this is kind of a combination of things, is if the paint wasn't shaken properly and you applied it too thickly, you would get an abnormal amount of runs with not a lot of paint cover.

The most likely possibility is the fact that it's cheap paint. I almost always have trouble with the bargain paint, which is why I spring the extra few bucks and get the Krylon (Rustoleum is very good paint too, and I do use a dark grey Rustoleum primer in my paint jobs, but overall, I prefer Krylon).

Hope this helps.
 
You could always try testing the paint on something. I made a piece of Halo thigh armour, and try paint on that. But like carpathiavh99, I go the extra few dollars and buy specific paint.
 
Got another paint-related question: I plan on having hinges on some of my suit pieces on the OUTSIDE rather than the inside for aesthetic purposes. My question is whether they should be applied before or after painting. My idea is attaching them before painting and painting over them (the hinges will be a different color from the actual armor, mind you). Keep in mind that they are metal hinges, so I question whether this is a good idea or not. Any advice?
 
Got another paint-related question: I plan on having hinges on some of my suit pieces on the OUTSIDE rather than the inside for aesthetic purposes. My question is whether they should be applied before or after painting. My idea is attaching them before painting and painting over them (the hinges will be a different color from the actual armor, mind you). Keep in mind that they are metal hinges, so I question whether this is a good idea or not. Any advice?

Either way, if the hinges will be painted a different color than the base armor, it really doesn't matter. However, if you attach the hinge before you paint, you run no risk of damaging the base paint job while attaching the hinge.
 
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