"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

[mkshane81]

I'm hoping this goes here!


I've recently picked up a Pep file for a 'Sliced' reach Battle Rifle.

I'm understand most of it, I cut out the templates and put them onto card/foam right? Then glue them all together?

What about the opposite side, Do I flip the details and repeat cutting them out? If so, How do I 'flip' them? Hope you understand what I'm trying to say

Traditionally, when it comes to sliced files, they are set up to where you can use basic cardbaord for each layer. Once you cut out all of the layers that have the print side up (from your pepakura printout), flip them over to print side down, and cut out a second set. I hope that helps to answer your question.

-Matt

 

[Zagoner]

Traditionally, when it comes to sliced files, they are set up to where you can use basic cardbaord for each layer. Once you cut out all of the layers that have the print side up (from your pepakura printout), flip them over to print side down, and cut out a second set. I hope that helps to answer your question.

-Matt

Thankyou, I'm happy since I wont have to print of double amount of sheets

 

[Jason 078]

Here is a strange question for those who might be in the know about this sort of thing...

Has anyone ever thought about using a rotary paper scoring tool for the score lines in the pepakura? Perhaps even a rotary perforation tool? I am currently using the pen method, but it doesn't score the lines evenly. On some of the smaller lines, it doesn't score them deep enough, especially on the sides. It would also seem easier and a little safer than using the back of the exacto blade to score as it wouldn't cut the paper off.

Just curious. And thanks!

 

[Jake D]

Jason, I tried using a perforation tool for a few sheets but it was much more difficult to get precise scoring than a pen. I even used some small rollers from a pastry chef's tool kit for embossing/scoring marzipan. That one was a little better for the intricate details, but overall a pen holds a cleaner line. For anything smaller than an inch, I free hand it. Anything longer and I line it up along a ruler.

Are you using a really thick paper? A nice ballpoint gets clean lines that fold for valley/mountain without issue for me on 110lb. I've got a red Bic (metal housing) and a black Pilot G-2 for my Valley/mountains. Both of them roll really well. When I started I tried using just the basic Bic 'logo' pens, single cap, some business logo. They didn't roll smoothly, and sometimes caught the page and stuttered.

 

[Jason 078]

That's been my biggest problem. would you suggest something along the lines of a 0.8mm or 1mm fine point pens? I use retractable and buy bulk (though I go for the nicer bulk pens). Could you PM me a link to a good pen or pen set? Oh, and I typically go red for mountain and blue for valley (I know Doppler shift better than pepakura, so this way I don't get confused).

Are you using a really thick paper? A nice ballpoint gets clean lines that fold for valley/mountain without issue for me on 110lb. I've got a red Bic (metal housing) and a black Pilot G-2 for my Valley/mountains. Both of them roll really well. When I started I tried using just the basic Bic 'logo' pens, single cap, some business logo. They didn't roll smoothly, and sometimes caught the page and stuttered.

 

[Quazar355]

I've been looking around the forums for anything specifically on scaling pep helmets and I haven't found anything very expansive. Could someone explain to me how I should go about scaling and what a general good size is for reference. I have made a helmet before (has yet to me completed) and it was too small and I really don't want to make the same mistake again. Any help would greatly be appreciated.

 

[GuitarMaster157]

Quazar, it's really just a trial and error process, there's no perfect way to go about doing it. Pepping is the most tedious process.

 

[darkspartan38]

I'm wondering if someone could make a pepakura file for me or show me a download link for it if its already made. I am looking for files for commander shepards destroyed n7 armor from the end of the game and it looks like this:

 

[hobbitdude13]

Hey guys, I've got a sliced MA5C file here by L3X BLU3R1V3R and does anybody know what thickness of slices i should use?

 

[spartansonny]

lex designed his sliced files for standard cardboard thickness, like packing boxes. nothing crazy thick / heavy duty nor super thin like cereal boxes

 

[hobbitdude13]

Thank you sonny. Feel better, good sir.

 

[Harri51]

I have a pretty basic question I have used many papers for modeling but for something like this I am not sure on what is the "best" paper to start with. I was thinking card stock but I know there are more kinds of paper out there.

 

[hobbitdude13]

I have a pretty basic question I have used many papers for modeling but for something like this I am not sure on what is the "best" paper to start with. I was thinking card stock but I know there are more kinds of paper out there.

Card stock at 110 weight is the standard pepakura paper. Its pretty easy to find at like staples or office depot. Its what I've always used and it works great

 

[Harri51]

Thank hobbitdude. I was looking around and most tutorials seemed to point to card stock and I had success with my project in college as well but got to ask up before I just jump in.

 

[necro65]

Hi! I'm trying to find files to build a mark vi master chief armor with a v helmet. Is this a thing yet in pepakura and if so how do I find them or can some one post a link? Thank you very much in advance for helping a lost noob out

 

[dean the her0]

Hi! I'm trying to find files to build a mark vi master chief armor with a v helmet. Is this a thing yet in pepakura and if so how do I find them or can some one post a link? Thank you very much in advance for helping a lost noob out

http://halocostuming.wikia.com/wiki/Pepakura_File_Index

i hope this helps even though its 4 months on lol

 

[Katsu]

I forget what I'm supposed to do with these red lines... I saw some posts on these forums but they're from like 4 years ago, or dead links because of the downtime, and I don't think they apply to the newer versions of pep, and I should probably just be fixing it in 3ds max:

Any insight would be awesome, I'm newer to 3d modeling than I'd like to be, but doing my best. It's going to be a low def sizing tester for the mk5 helmet!!

 

[Satchmo III]

I forget what I'm supposed to do with these red lines... I saw some posts on these forums but they're from like 4 years ago, or dead links because of the downtime, and I don't think they apply to the newer versions of pep, and I should probably just be fixing it in 3ds max:

Any insight would be awesome, I'm newer to 3d modeling than I'd like to be, but doing my best. It's going to be a low def sizing tester for the mk5 helmet!!

Every face (triangle or quadrangle that is filled) in a model mesh has two sides (one that is inner and one that is outer). It can be difficult to tell in a modeling program if all the faces are directed the same way. When imported into Pepakura Viewer or Designer it's easy to tell...some faces will be white (this is the outer face) and some faces will be darker (this is the inner face). You want all the faces directed outwards so they are white when imported into Pepakura.

The red-lines in this model are due to the faces that are directed opposite the other faces. I'm not very familiar with the Maya or 3DS programs but you should be able to find some function that will make all faces direct the same way after selecting all of the mesh. In Blender this is called normalizing the faces, or flipping the normals to point in the same direction.

Other causes for red-lines in Pepakura Viewer/Designer are open edges (when the edge of a face is adjacent to open space) and if duplicate lines are on top of one another (the duplicates would need to be deleted). It doesn't looks like duplicates is an issue with your mesh.

Hope this helps. Good luck slogging through the learning process...the first model I dinked around with was the same helmet and it's become pretty rewarding to be able to contribute to the community with modeling and it makes your own projects more personal and worthwhile to start with your own meshes.

 

[RobotChicken]

Hi, please don't get mad for re-posting in a different thread, but I think I may have put my questions in the wrong area.

1. I'm on a Mac system and no way in h**l I'm putting Windows on my machine. Thankfully, the Pepakura File Index at Halo Costuming Wiki includes Mark VI pdf files for Mac users (but only of Normal Build files, no High Detail - dang it) and for this I'm VERY grateful (thank you so much "Slyfo" and "robogenisis"). But, there are multiple versions of some pieces and no photos to show what each pdf looks like when assembled. Do I really need to prototype each one just to see if it's the one to build "for real" or are there photos of the pdf buildups?

2. The pdf files are already "scaled", but to what size? Again, do I need to prototype each one to see its size and then scale it appropriately when re-sending to the printer for a final build? This will be for my 9 yr old (neither of us have ever played Halo, so yeah I'm quite the "noob" in this regard but he loves the look of Master Chief and wants a costume, and dad knows how to build costumes - with working electronics and such, like my studio-quality Borg outfit from STNG). So if the pdf files are scaled for an adult after assembling (which it looks like they are) then I'll need to reduce them on the printer. It just would have been nice to include some assembled dimensions of the finished cardstock assemblies within each pdf file to help pre-calculate the scaling. (I realize their size will change slightly when adding foam padding and automotive filler contouring.)

3. Lastly, there are no pdf files for weapons. Would somebody with Pepakura be gracious enough to scale for a 9 yr old the weapon(s) Master Chief typically uses (looks like UNSC MA5B Assault Rifle or UNSC Spartan Laser?) and send me the unfolded pattern in pdf format?

Thank you much!

 

[MissingSpartan7]

Hi, please don't get mad for re-posting in a different thread, but I think I may have put my questions in the wrong area.

1. I'm on a Mac system and no way in h**l I'm putting Windows on my machine. Thankfully, the Pepakura File Index at Halo Costuming Wiki includes Mark VI pdf files for Mac users (but only of Normal Build files, no High Detail - dang it) and for this I'm VERY grateful (thank you so much "Slyfo" and "robogenisis"). But, there are multiple versions of some pieces and no photos to show what each pdf looks like when assembled. Do I really need to prototype each one just to see if it's the one to build "for real" or are there photos of the pdf buildups?

2. The pdf files are already "scaled", but to what size? Again, do I need to prototype each one to see its size and then scale it appropriately when re-sending to the printer for a final build? This will be for my 9 yr old (neither of us have ever played Halo, so yeah I'm quite the "noob" in this regard but he loves the look of Master Chief and wants a costume, and dad knows how to build costumes - with working electronics and such, like my studio-quality Borg outfit from STNG). So if the pdf files are scaled for an adult after assembling (which it looks like they are) then I'll need to reduce them on the printer. It just would have been nice to include some assembled dimensions of the finished cardstock assemblies within each pdf file to help pre-calculate the scaling. (I realize their size will change slightly when adding foam padding and automotive filler contouring.)

3. Lastly, there are no pdf files for weapons. Would somebody with Pepakura be gracious enough to scale for a 9 yr old the weapon(s) Master Chief typically uses (looks like UNSC MA5B Assault Rifle or UNSC Spartan Laser?) and send me the unfolded pattern in pdf format?

Thank you much!

I am aware of the other thread you posted this in, and yes, that may have been in the wrong area. (If you so choose, click "Edit post", then "Go advanced", and up the top should have an option to delete the post.)
This thread would be much better suited to answer your questions.

First-off, I haven't seen or heard from either Slyfo or Robogenisis in the entire time I've been on the forum. I think they have moved on long ago.

1. So, you're on a Mac and won't see reason or logic to install Windows. Okay, fine - I can deal with that. It just makes things slightly more difficult. Find a friend with windows, or if you can't - your local public library will probably have Windows computers for people to print things from - so just put the Pepakura programs, and any files, on a USB or portable hard drive - and use that machine. You should probably install Pep Designer straight to the USB/HDD, as you will need it to rescale the files. Even if you don't have a key for it, you should still be able to export/print to a PDF.

2. Assuming you don't ignore the above, you should now be able to change the scale of the .pdo files, rather than trying to rescale the PDFs during printing.
There are multiple threads and guides around the forums on how to correctly scale pepakura files to fit you (or your son) correctly.

3. There are no PDFs for weapons, because it is much easier to work with pepakura Designer, than to use PDFs. Also, weapons are a bit more difficult to scale, as it comes down to your own preference, rather than "does it fit me or not". Ideally, the best you can do is make it look 'proportionally correct' to the rest of the armour.

Best of luck on your (son's) build. Hope this helps.
MS7