"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura
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Nintendude
Well-Known Member
To Scale use Pep Designer to just view and print use Pep Viewer and as for paper anything over 110g/m² weight cardstock paper is the best choice.
There are no separate files for the two. Something is wrong there.
Yep. But I'd not go higher than 200 g/m². I've tried 250 once, but that stuff is so thick (half a millimetre in fact) that you can hardly fold it. And if you manage to, that half millimetre will be standing over at every glueline later on.
Ral Partha
Sr Member
This means is that the file is locked. Unless you have the password from the author of the file, it will be opened only in Viewer, thus you cannot edit it.
WOOOOOWWWW....thats....bad, ok well thanks to the help
You can print them on multiple pages and then glue the pages or the parts of the parts together. Isn't that obvious?
However, the chest piece is probably the most difficult of them all. I'd recomment you start with a hand piece (seriously!) and then work your way up one arm. Always do a whole extremity before starting the pieces for the opposite one, in case the armour pieces somehow don't work well together. Once you have your arm pepped, you can think about where to go from there.
Ral Partha
Sr Member
Use the Join/Disjoin Faces feature to divide the piece into smaller parts
Nick421121
New Member
How much does the designer cost? And how come the viewer does scale?
Ral Partha
Sr Member
$39
It doesn't. The Pepakura Viewer is just that: a viewer. Iit allows you to view and print .pdo files and nothing else.
I was wondering if anyone knows how to get pepakura 3 to not chop off the bottom of each page? the parts all fit in the layout but when I print it says that a part of the development may not fit into printable area. I would prefer not having to adjust the scale and then rearrange the parts if possible.
Thanks
Thanks
Hi, Im a Noob here
Just starting my very first project (Either Emile's Kukri or the UNSC Combat Knife) and Im wondering if 160gsm Cardstock would be ok for it, and the fact that are there any alternatives to fibreglass, aquaglass and resin?
Thanks for ya Help
If by "gsm" you mean "g/m²", then yes, that would be ok. 200 g/m² would be even better though.
Rondo is another alternative to pure resin, but no less toxic and messy. And then there's the hot glue method, that is also messy, but not toxic. However, it does have serious drawbacks when it comes to temperature resistance and stability under pressure, especially when combined.
For props like weapons you may also have to consider other means to fill the model, like foam or something. But I'm not really into making weapons yet, so I can't help you there. The stickies, however, will provide help on all of these methods. All you need to do is read them.
First of all, scale adjustments aren't there to make pieces fit on the page. They are there to make the finished model fit onto you.
To solve your problem, I'd suggest you switch the paper size to A4, letter or whatever you're using. You'll probably have to rearrange all the pieces afterwards, but you'll have to do that anyways once you've properly scaled it. Remember: If you're feeling lazy and decide to skip the scaling, it is highly unlikely that you'll get a model you can wear later on.
And I'd advise to dive into the stickies as well.
Actually the scale adjustments do help the large pieces fit on the page. I am printing weapon files instead of armor pieces so I am not worried about fit, but I would rather not mess withe the scale much. I don't think paper size is the issue. As far as I know each box of the grid on the parts layout side of pepakura is the printable area of the size paper you choose, and for me that is true for the top and sides of the page but the bottom side gets cut off if the parts are too close to the bottom edge of a page on the layout.
Of course they help, because by changing the size of the finished model, you also change the size of the parts. But it's not what they're there for. Armour must be scaled to a size that fits you, and weapons mustn't be scaled at all because they're in a 1:1 scale in the file.
The grid doesn't exactly hit the corners of the printable area, except for the top left corner. Most of the other grid positions are significantly off when I try to snap pieces to them. However, placing parts in the border area of the page where your printer can't print is impossible, because what you see in the page layout window aren't the whole pages. You can define a border in the print settings and Pepakura Designer will cut that away when displaying the pages. The worst thing you can do therefore is place pieces on multiple pages (except at the top and left of the first page, there you can actually leave the printable area - for all other places, new pages are added)
Jester1014
Well-Known Member
I just hit no when It asks me to resize parts to fit. And If it's cuttin your parts off at the bottom, My printer was doin the same when I printed out my Reach AR. Each part that was cut off due to printer I just relocated them using the click and move, I moved them to pages that weren't being used on the right side of the screen. I hope that helps you. When you go to print just count which pages they are, so you dont' waste too much cardstock.
I am attempting to print L3X BLU3R1V3R's Halo: Reach sniper rifle, but as it stands now without any modifications to the file provided, the bottom edge of every page is cut off by about 1/4". I imagine that I can't be the first to experience this; I was just asking if there was a way to adjust the settings so it will print properly.
Yes this is what happens to me. I usually adjust each piece so there is a buffer between the parts and the bottom edge of the page, but in the file I am attempting to print there are parts too large to be adjusted.
What paper size do you have and what paper size did you select in the print settings?
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