"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura
- Thread starter 23Magnum
- Start date
- Status
xFTBx Wolfman
New Member
I'm havving trouble with the pepakura program with printing and scaling.
Whenever I try to print a pop up usually pops up saying the scaling is wrong. I click to rescale and it usually just quirks around until it prints. When it prints, I can tell putting it together would look bad because it's smaller.
Whenever I try to print a pop up usually pops up saying the scaling is wrong. I click to rescale and it usually just quirks around until it prints. When it prints, I can tell putting it together would look bad because it's smaller.
Ral Partha
Sr Member
You probably haven't selected the right paper format in Pepakura Designer.
geijin
Member
My guess is its still trying to print on A4 paper. I'm having the same problem. I'm trying to reprint a couple sheets for an ODST helmet I started a year ago, and its acting up on me now.
Crazymanongames
New Member
Ok I quite literally just joined the site so I am über noob! Anyways, I'm running on a mac and want to make my own set of Mjolnir armor. Unfortunately, as far as I know pepakura is not compatible with mac's. Anyone with a Mac version or any info please help? Thanks.
Then your first step should be to read the stickies, that'll also lead you to Adam's introductory video, which will probably help you (not with your question, though ;-)).
The answer to that question (in case you haven't already found it using the search function; There have been quite a few fruit lovers who asked it) is: There is no good way to use Pepakura Designer on Mac. You can use Bootcamp, you can get a PC and that's basically it. Tamasoft doesn't have a Mac version, so nobody here will either.
Please do take some time to read the stickies. I'm pretty sure that the edge IDs (that's what they're called) are explained in one of the numerous pepakura tutorials. You have to zoom in a little to see them and if they don't show, you need to activate them yourself.
Also, normal paper is way too thin. Don't even try using that for pepping, because your chances of getting an unwarped model are pretty slim even without putting on reinforcement.
Crazymanongames
New Member
Thanks man, Have a good one.
L1F73RCH1CK
New Member
I have a question. I searched online and here and haven't seen the answer so sorry if this is a repeat. I tried to print RoadWarrior's HD assault rifle that I found on the 405th wiki and the printer wouldn't print it, and as I can best described crashed as a result. I printed the non-HD assualt rifle minutes later with no problem. Is this just an issue with this printer, and if so, what would be a recommended printer for printing the large HD pep files?
Hi All,
My first post although i have been reading the forums for a while now. I apologise if i am putting this in the wrong forum but here goes ...
I am working on the iron man mark 3 armour using pep and 280gsm card stock. I have no problems with the cutting out, gluing etc. (i have already done the left shin and left thigh, now owrking on the left bicep) i am using hot glue.
I know i have to support struts to keep the shape before resining.
My main concern is the method of fibre glassing.
I have read various methods from resining both inside and outside ... then fibre glassing the inside ... then the outside ... or sanding the outside ... using bondo ... and so on and so forth.
I understand that resining will give it some strength which will allow me to resin it again and add fibre glass. So do i just fibre glass the inside and the outside? Or do i have to sand away the card? Are you essentially creating a mold out of card and using that for the fibre glass?
It seems to me that the best way would be to resin the inside & outside. Then fibre glass the inside. Then the outside ... essentially sandwhiching the card between the two layers of fibre glass. Is there a reason why this is not a good idea? Or is this an acceptable method?
I realise that i will have to use bondo (or UK equivalent) afterwards to smooth off the armour and then sand it like a happy sanding imp ... but is that the only purpose for bondo? Or does it strengthen the armour?
This armour will be used for a larp and needs to be strong enough to withstand beign hit with foam weapons not to mention the strain of me running around in it. Hopefully i wont fall over but if i do will it be strong enough?
Finally i am concerned with the resin soaking the card too much that it warps. Is there any way to waterproof the card to prevent this?
Has anyone ever used plasti-drip? http://www.plastidip.co.uk/eStore/index.cfm?type=Domestic_Solutions/Plastidip&stage=1
I would appreciate any help as i only have until the end of october to complete my suit, and i still have to figure out the best way of attaching it to my body.
Once again apologies if this is in the wrong place or if these questions have been asked before.
Peace,
Q.
My first post although i have been reading the forums for a while now. I apologise if i am putting this in the wrong forum but here goes ...
I am working on the iron man mark 3 armour using pep and 280gsm card stock. I have no problems with the cutting out, gluing etc. (i have already done the left shin and left thigh, now owrking on the left bicep) i am using hot glue.
I know i have to support struts to keep the shape before resining.
My main concern is the method of fibre glassing.
I have read various methods from resining both inside and outside ... then fibre glassing the inside ... then the outside ... or sanding the outside ... using bondo ... and so on and so forth.
I understand that resining will give it some strength which will allow me to resin it again and add fibre glass. So do i just fibre glass the inside and the outside? Or do i have to sand away the card? Are you essentially creating a mold out of card and using that for the fibre glass?
It seems to me that the best way would be to resin the inside & outside. Then fibre glass the inside. Then the outside ... essentially sandwhiching the card between the two layers of fibre glass. Is there a reason why this is not a good idea? Or is this an acceptable method?
I realise that i will have to use bondo (or UK equivalent) afterwards to smooth off the armour and then sand it like a happy sanding imp ... but is that the only purpose for bondo? Or does it strengthen the armour?
This armour will be used for a larp and needs to be strong enough to withstand beign hit with foam weapons not to mention the strain of me running around in it. Hopefully i wont fall over but if i do will it be strong enough?
Finally i am concerned with the resin soaking the card too much that it warps. Is there any way to waterproof the card to prevent this?
Has anyone ever used plasti-drip? http://www.plastidip.co.uk/eStore/index.cfm?type=Domestic_Solutions/Plastidip&stage=1
I would appreciate any help as i only have until the end of october to complete my suit, and i still have to figure out the best way of attaching it to my body.
Once again apologies if this is in the wrong place or if these questions have been asked before.
Peace,
Q.
You will want to resin the outside (2-3 layers of resin). You don't have to resin the inside, but it adds strength. Fiberglass ONLY the inside. You will loose a TON of detail by glassing the outside.
The stickies in the Pepakura sub-forum (located in Creation discussion) will help a LOT. Take a few hours and crash through them. I know they are hard to read because of the forum move, but the information is still there.
Thanks for the info Hickeydog 
So after fibreglassing the inside and resining the outside, do i need to sand down the outside until i sand away the paper or just until i have the surfaces smooth?
I am assuming that the Bondo will be to smooth it out further and fill in cracks, just as you would if you were working on the body of a car?
Once again thanks for the directions
Peace,
Q.
So after fibreglassing the inside and resining the outside, do i need to sand down the outside until i sand away the paper or just until i have the surfaces smooth?
I am assuming that the Bondo will be to smooth it out further and fill in cracks, just as you would if you were working on the body of a car?
Once again thanks for the directions
Peace,
Q.
TKAmaterasu
Member
I have two questions.
One: Would wood glue work? Or is it just PVA?
two: On Kat's helmet. there are these holes, are they to be cut out?
One: Would wood glue work? Or is it just PVA?
two: On Kat's helmet. there are these holes, are they to be cut out?
TKAmaterasu
Member
I have one question. I don't think me and my brother can afford resin etc....would papier mache work, if you used a LOT of it?
- Status
