"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

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Hello again! Just a quick question of reassurance: I have just discovered the purpose of the "Join/Disjoin Face", and it seems very useful. However, does it have any unintended side effects (Aside from pieces overlapping when their natural curvatures exceed each other)? I just want to make sure before I start printing off pieces.
 
I hate to ask... but where is the join disjoin FACE option? I know of the join disjoin EDGE but not face..
 
just a quick question to anyone who feels like answering, how do i get the the other side of a pepakura piece? what i mean by that is i have a pepakura file for a thigh piece but only for the right side. is there a way with pepakura designer to reverse it to be for the left?
thanks
 
Hello again! Just a quick question of reassurance: I have just discovered the purpose of the "Join/Disjoin Face", and it seems very useful. However, does it have any unintended side effects (Aside from pieces overlapping when their natural curvatures exceed each other)? I just want to make sure before I start printing off pieces.

Nope, no side effects.

just a quick question to anyone who feels like answering, how do i get the the other side of a pepakura piece? what i mean by that is i have a pepakura file for a thigh piece but only for the right side. is there a way with pepakura designer to reverse it to be for the left?
thanks

2D menu/Invert Pattern
 
I think they're the same thing, Katsu. Unless you are referring to the "Join Adjacent Edges" option in the 2D Menu, in which case, I don't even know what that does.
 
I've Been working on a HAZOP helmet and have finished A LOT of it, but last night I decided to work on the bottom of the helmet, and this morning I finished the second to last ring on the bottom, but can't fit my big head throught it. I thought of, after finshing the pepping and hardening ,sanding it until I get my melon to fit. Is it ok to do this? I'm stressing because of all the time I put in and if I had to completely rebuild it I would, but really wouldn't want to. Can anyone PLEASE HELP?!?
 
Most of the halo helmets are designed with "neck seals" which are lips that come in so that in-game you don't see the wearer's chin and stuff. From popular assumption, these neck seals are supposed to be softer material (vinyl, leather) so that you can stick your head through it. Some people don't pep this, myself include, but that is a bad idea... The extra rings on the neck area help to stabilize the shape, so that it will maintain the correct shape while it is wet in resin stage. The best option is to test fit without it pepped, then pep it and cut it out AFTER fiberglass/rondo

pephelmwut.png


My slightly outdated graphic of it. I revise my statement that it SHOULD be pepped, just cut out later and either mold casted into latex, or made from scratch in vinyl, or just not made at all after being cut out, since you don't NEED it to wear, it just will look better with it.

Hope this helps.
 
In addition to that: Fitting your head through the bottom is not everything. I, for example, hit the inside of the visor with my nose in a snugly fitting Mark VI helmet. Make sure stuff like that doesn't happen :)
 
I'm actually making a HAZOP Helm, and I meant to say that after I glue the whole thing together, resin, and then fiberglass it I was THEN going to sand down the rings until I could fit my head in but now I know what to make the neck seal out of and about how far to go, so thanks.
 
Question: If I use Scotch Clear Glue (something that I already have laying around in a very handy small tip applicator) will the glue dissolve and my pep fall to pieces if I resin it? If so, what's a good glue to use? I've been using hot glue but I honestly don't know that I really like using it, because it is rather difficult. I'd appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks!
 
Question: If I use Scotch Clear Glue (something that I already have laying around in a very handy small tip applicator) will the glue dissolve and my pep fall to pieces if I resin it? If so, what's a good glue to use? I've been using hot glue but I honestly don't know that I really like using it, because it is rather difficult. I'd appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks!

I honestly have never used it and wouldn't know and have heard a lot of the members use hot glue. I use stick glue and it works pretty well, and another forum member uses Elmer's white glue so unless anyone says that it will fall apart you're fine and if it's true there are these alternatives. And with the scotch glue be sure you use enough and not just really small amounts. Hope This helps.
 
The only way to be sure, tacitus, is to test it on a small piece beforehand. Just glue two medium sized pieces of cardstock together and then resin them. If they fall apart then it's bad, if they stick together then it's fine! Be sure while it's still wet (wearing gloves of course) to gently pull on them, to simulate the pulling that the shape of the helmet would normally exert on parts.
 
Hello, again. I've been working on my suit build, and have encountered some trouble; my printer broke! Because of this, I now need to use the local library to print. My question is: Is there a way to get the pages of parts onto a USB so they can be printed on a computer without the Pepakura programs? If so, please do not hesitate to respond!
 
Hello, again. I've been working on my suit build, and have encountered some trouble; my printer broke! Because of this, I now need to use the local library to print. My question is: Is there a way to get the pages of parts onto a USB so they can be printed on a computer without the Pepakura programs? If so, please do not hesitate to respond!

If you're allowed to run programs, you can just take Pepakura Designer (or Viewer) with you on your USB stick. Simply unpack the installation file, installing the thing isn't actually necessary.

If you aren't allowed to run programs, you can print into a PDF with a PDF printer (i.e. another piece of software) and take the resulting PDF there to print.

Make sure you don't use their flimsy office paper, because that won't work.
 
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