"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

[MjolnirGraphics]

Super-glue vs Hot-Glue

I've built a couple helmets (just the paper) over the years using a variety of paper thicknesses. I think I finally have the time/money to actually try building a full set of armor using the Pep-Fiber-Bondo process.

I keep seeing people saying to use a hot-glue gun for your pep on 110lb paper. In the past I've always just used superglue. It takes some practice but you can get pretty freaking fast (pinch->instant set) at it after a while. I did about 80% of the standard Reach helmet over the course of a weekend.

Is there some reason to use hot-glue over super-glue? I feel like it would be slower going and I'd be at a pretty high risk of burning my fingers (if not over the short term, definitely just from the repeated exposure).

Possible responses I'd expect:
-Maybe hot-glue is better structurally overall?
-Superglue can leave the paper kinda stiff, is this bad?
-Might the superglue residue react negatively towards some of the chemicals used in later steps?

 

[Katsu]

The only reason to use hot glue over super glue or pva glue is that you can undo hot glue. So if you fudge the piece, you can reheat it and redo it, where-as superglue and pva you are sort of boned.

Beyond that, I think hot glue has too many downsides. If you sand into the piece, the hot glue will gum up and fray, it gets webby everywhere, and is dangerous to fingertips. But that ability to undo mistakes is pretty big, so take that into consideration. In the end though, do what works best for you. Good luck!

 

[MjolnirGraphics]

What's PVA?

I've made a half dozen helmets so far, always managed to fix any problems I've had, worst I've had to do is use the exacto to cut the two layers apart, then re-glue. Worse than that, I could just reprint the piece.

Hmmm
Superglue - Drop of glue, position, pinch...done
Hot-glue - get pieces ready, try to squeeze gun into narrow spot, dispense correct amount, set glue gun down, position, pinch (CRAP that's hot)....hold...hold.... done... peel blistered fingertips off paper...

I think I'll stick with the superglue, 1000+ seams on the helmet alone... It does take more skill, but I'm good and fast at it.

 

[Macattack64]

The only reason to use hot glue over super glue or pva glue is that you can undo hot glue. So if you fudge the piece, you can reheat it and redo it, where-as superglue and pva you are sort of boned.

Beyond that, I think hot glue has too many downsides. If you sand into the piece, the hot glue will gum up and fray, it gets webby everywhere, and is dangerous to fingertips. But that ability to undo mistakes is pretty big, so take that into consideration. In the end though, do what works best for you. Good luck!

I find that you are never really boned. There are ALWAYS ways to fix the problems that can occur with pep and fiberglass. I find hot glue to be an extra hassle though and kind of over kill. It will be a pain later in the fiberglass stages because of the extra bumps you'll have the fiberglass later inside the helmet. That means there is a higher risk of getting air bubbles when you try to conform to all the hot glue ridges.

 

[Masone]

Hey.
I think this question already excisted here, but...
I'm trying to make a helmet. In the 2D scale Factor, should the statistics be higher than my head? If yes, how much? Will 290mm height do for a 1.84 dude?
Sorry, if the question is stupid - I'm starting my adventure with Pepakura

 

[Macattack64]

Hey.
I think this question already excisted here, but...
I'm trying to make a helmet. In the 2D scale Factor, should the statistics be higher than my head? If yes, how much? Will 290mm height do for a 1.84 dude?
Sorry, if the question is stupid - I'm starting my adventure with Pepakura

What do you mean for a 1.84 dude? The build height is what it will say. 290mm is how tall the model will be total. My MK VI helmet was 265mm. It fits me perfectly but doesn't fit others.

 

[Masone]

I was asking if the helmet must have my head's height, or I should add a couple cm's.

 

[Katsu]

What's PVA?

I've made a half dozen helmets so far, always managed to fix any problems I've had, worst I've had to do is use the exacto to cut the two layers apart, then re-glue. Worse than that, I could just reprint the piece.

Hmmm
Superglue - Drop of glue, position, pinch...done
Hot-glue - get pieces ready, try to squeeze gun into narrow spot, dispense correct amount, set glue gun down, position, pinch (CRAP that's hot)....hold...hold.... done... peel blistered fingertips off paper...

I think I'll stick with the superglue, 1000+ seams on the helmet alone... It does take more skill, but I'm good and fast at it.

For sure, do what is comfortable to you! Can't wait to see what you create!
Also, PVA glue is white glue, like elmer's. I use a fairly expensive craft version that I've had nothing but success with.

I find that you are never really boned. There are ALWAYS ways to fix the problems that can occur with pep and fiberglass. I find hot glue to be an extra hassle though and kind of over kill. It will be a pain later in the fiberglass stages because of the extra bumps you'll have the fiberglass later inside the helmet. That means there is a higher risk of getting air bubbles when you try to conform to all the hot glue ridges.

Haha, I was being a smidge dramatic. I use PVA and mess up sometimes, you're right that it's never too horrible to fix it, but it's nothing like the total undo you can manage with a hot glue gun. Everything you've said is spot on with why I went with PVA instead. I'd considered superglue but it doesn't work for me, I just end up gluing parts of myself to other things.

I was asking if the helmet must have my head's height, or I should add a couple cm's.

You want to add more than two centimeters to the height, take a look at HaloGoddess' tutorial here:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/31627-HaloGoddess-quot-How-To-Scale-quot-and-More-Tutorial

The gist is, you need extra room for the parts of the helmet that are going to stick up or down further than your head's height (chin part, ridges on the top etc) as well as padding.

 

[TheRabbit]

Add a couple centimeters. You'll want room inside for reinforcement and padding, so making it form fitting to your head will make it too tight in the end once you've done all the finishing touches to it. I'm a little bit taller than 1.84 (6'2" or 1.88m) and I made my helmet 275mm. Maybe I have a disproportionately small head.

 

[Masone]

Add a couple centimeters. You'll want room inside for reinforcement and padding, so making it form fitting to your head will make it too tight in the end once you've done all the finishing touches to it. I'm a little bit taller than 1.84 (6'2" or 1.88m) and I made my helmet 275mm. Maybe I have a disproportionately small head.

Thanks for the tip.
My head is about 26,5 cm high, so I think 29 will be enough...

 

[VeeEight]

I feel like I am in over my head. Very confused and some what lost in proper scaling, being female, I am worried about chest plate problems, and i have read so many peoples problems with improper scales.

 

[TheRabbit]

I feel like I am in over my head. Very confused and some what lost in proper scaling, being female, I am worried about chest plate problems, and i have read so many peoples problems with improper scales.

I used HaloGoddess' tutorial here. I read through a bunch of different ones, but that one seemed to make the most sense.

Pepakura also has a function in the edit menu that allows you to measure the actual distance between 2 points on the model. So for example, I measured the distance between my shoulder tips, then I scaled the chest to approximately the right size, and used the measurement tool to measure between the two points that would be resting on my shoulders. I adjusted the scale just slightly from there and it was perfect.

Having just done the process, and had my chest come out to exactly the right size, I can help you further if you have any questions

 

[VeeEight]

I used HaloGoddess' tutorial here. I read through a bunch of different ones, but that one seemed to make the most sense.

Pepakura also has a function in the edit menu that allows you to measure the actual distance between 2 points on the model. So for example, I measured the distance between my shoulder tips, then I scaled the chest to approximately the right size, and used the measurement tool to measure between the two points that would be resting on my shoulders. I adjusted the scale just slightly from there and it was perfect.

Having just done the process, and had my chest come out to exactly the right size, I can help you further if you have any questions

This is a huge help...laymen's terms definitely work so much better.

 

[aurias]

Anyone know of a CQC helmet pep with the visor and uplink module attachments? I have the two on the 405th 4shared database, they are very good peps, but no attachments.

Thanks!

 

[Katsu]

Anyone know of a CQC helmet pep with the visor and uplink module attachments? I have the two on the 405th 4shared database, they are very good peps, but no attachments.

Thanks!

By visor, do you mean the Up-Armor? It's the third armor permutation of the CQC (If you count the "default" one too), with the thing over the top of the helmet and the box on the right ear?
If yes, then that IS in the http://405th.4shared.com db. It's under Reach -> Helmet -> Attachment -> UA -> UA [CQ] (Reach CQC helmet attach MS7).pdo

Some of the other ones in that folder might work as well, but that one is labeled to be for CQC so give it a try!

As for the HUL, it's in that Attachment folder, just leaf through the HUL folders and pick one you like.

Most helmets are meant to have the attachments seperate, so you can do what you want with them!

 

[Gray]

Does anybody know where to get a HD MarkVI Boot Peppakura file from? I've looked at the page on google that has a lot of different pepp files, but the HD Boots are taken down, where would I find those? They are called the 2-piece Right Boot by ROBOGENESIS And the left boot aswell.

 

[Katsu]

Does anybody know where to get a HD MarkVI Boot Peppakura file from? I've looked at the page on google that has a lot of different pepp files, but the HD Boots are taken down, where would I find those? They are called the 2-piece Right Boot by ROBOGENESIS And the left boot aswell.

If you look at my signature, I include a link to the full up to date database of most known halo pep files. You will find pretty much anything you're looking for there, so give it a look! If you don't find what you are looking for there, post again here and I'll render what other help you need.

Not to rag on the wikia, but it is massively out of date, and lacks most of the new files. I've tried a few times to edit it and had my fixes removed, so someone there wants it to remain as is. The 4shared database is very expansive, well organized, and super up to date, so check it out!

 

[Gray]

If you look at my signature, I include a link to the full up to date database of most known halo pep files. You will find pretty much anything you're looking for there, so give it a look! If you don't find what you are looking for there, post again here and I'll render what other help you need.

Not to rag on the wikia, but it is massively out of date, and lacks most of the new files. I've tried a few times to edit it and had my fixes removed, so someone there wants it to remain as is. The 4shared database is very expansive, well organized, and super up to date, so check it out!

Wow,thank you so much that really helps!

Oh! And you'll see in my Halo 3 MarkVI build in my signature, I've made my thigh piece WAY too big, the height is fine, but the depth and width are bigger, how could I fix this?

 

[Katsu]

I'd just pad it if the height is good. You can't squeeze the file without getting a 3d modelling editor, easily at least. There is a very rudimentary 3d editor in pep designer, but it's pretty much for fixing tiny things.

 

[Macattack64]

Wow,thank you so much that really helps!

Oh! And you'll see in my Halo 3 MarkVI build in my signature, I've made my thigh piece WAY too big, the height is fine, but the depth and width are bigger, how could I fix this?

Sometimes you can sacrifice a little bit of the height just to make it thinner. You can also modify some of the pieces to make it thinner. For example, cutting a segment out of the inner thigh to pinch the model together.