Melissa Hogan
New Member
You're a pretty cool guy and the Halo helmet is pretty cool as well.
Hughs Odst Build
- Thread starter Hugh Holder
- Start date
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Hugh Holder
Well-Known Member
Finished one side!
Lol, thanks for the reference images. I'm watching your sister kick your butt in Street Fighter UNO right now ^_^
Well, I finally got my supplies delivered to me. Everything is finally thawing out here, hopefully we won't get another Ice storm.
I started right away on getting one jacket half done. That didn't take long, I got through two episodes of River Monsters while I worked. Too many distractions, that stuff is crazy.
I am very happy with how this is looking. I removed the clay wall and the silicone left a nice clean flat surface perfectly flush with the helmet. I did need to use a razor and cut the little silicone excess but not a lot of material was wasted. It follows a nice straight line down the middle. I just had to use a bit of water and sculpting tools to remove some excess clay stuck in the line work.
After making markings for where drill for the bolts, I applied a thin layer of wax and began the other side. Now I only need about 5 or 6 more layers then I'll be putting the other jacket half together.
I had some time to sit down and put the vents together and harden them. I will be building a wall and casting these as well, and plan on including them with the helmet kits for my friends. They will cast in ONYX in case my friends don't feel like painting them. Thats the only part that I'll be providing though, since the other features can be easily cut from styrene sheets or foam.
Lol, thanks for the reference images. I'm watching your sister kick your butt in Street Fighter UNO right now ^_^
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Well, I finally got my supplies delivered to me. Everything is finally thawing out here, hopefully we won't get another Ice storm.
I started right away on getting one jacket half done. That didn't take long, I got through two episodes of River Monsters while I worked. Too many distractions, that stuff is crazy.
I am very happy with how this is looking. I removed the clay wall and the silicone left a nice clean flat surface perfectly flush with the helmet. I did need to use a razor and cut the little silicone excess but not a lot of material was wasted. It follows a nice straight line down the middle. I just had to use a bit of water and sculpting tools to remove some excess clay stuck in the line work.
After making markings for where drill for the bolts, I applied a thin layer of wax and began the other side. Now I only need about 5 or 6 more layers then I'll be putting the other jacket half together.
I had some time to sit down and put the vents together and harden them. I will be building a wall and casting these as well, and plan on including them with the helmet kits for my friends. They will cast in ONYX in case my friends don't feel like painting them. Thats the only part that I'll be providing though, since the other features can be easily cut from styrene sheets or foam.
kenster1000
Jr Member
Great work Hugh, I can't believe how well the build is going. I cannot wait to see when you have the entire suit done. Great work so far and keep up the amazing work.
Andrew:
Andrew:
ACDCrockr209
Well-Known Member
Hugh, that mold is comming out nicely!
Heh, River Monsters is a good show!
-Pony
Heh, River Monsters is a good show!
-Pony
Captain Recon
Jr Member
Any chance you could show me how you managed to put together the section parts for the ODST? I'm trying to get it to work for the Scout and Recon helmets, with little success.
Hugh Holder
Well-Known Member
Thanks Andrew, I can't wait to finish it either! It's been a long stretch, but I believe once it starts warming up again and I can start painting I'll be finishing the armor pretty quickly.
Thanks! I'm guessing you mean the silicone thickener? I put 11 layers on each side. Maybe excessive, but whatever.
Thanks man! Yes it was, but I already burned through the whole season
Hows your ODST build going? I haven't seen you post any progress on the forums.I sure can! In a nutshell, it involved me basically modeling the helmet any way you would normally. I included the edge loops where the parts looked like separate pieces. To make the part modular I used a face select paintbrush in Maya to select the set of faces that I want to extract. After I extract the faces I select the border edges and extrude inward.
Then I do the same for the sets of faces around it, except I snap the verts to fit flush with the neighboring part.
Since I know that probably sounds really confusing I can show you over skype or I can try to put together a video showing my modeling process?
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Well, I got the other half done today. I'm just letting it cure overnight then tomorrow I will be drilling holes for the bolts to fit through. Then I plan on doing the first helmet pull!
I'm trying out the ONYX now for the vent mould I'll post another pic in a bit of how it turns out!
Well, I got the other half done today. I'm just letting it cure overnight then tomorrow I will be drilling holes for the bolts to fit through. Then I plan on doing the first helmet pull!
I'm trying out the ONYX now for the vent mould
I'll post another pic in a bit of how it turns out!
spartan005
Well-Known Member
i was wondering how much silicon did u need to make the mold? im thinkin of molding my helm when its done.....
Lovely work man. From one ODST to another. Keep it coming man!
Captain Recon
Jr Member
Not really, it all makes sense in terms of what I've been attempting, it's just that the mesh I'm working with is pretty pants. I'll muddle through. I use Blender mostly, 3Ds Max sometimes, so I'm not really sure on how all this works. I've got the helmet split up into parts, so I guess I can just work on through as best I can. If you'd like I can show you the progress I've made.
Also, thanks xD
Hi Hugh.
Your progress ODST is fine, very much it is pleasant to me
1) As you measured the sizes of the reservation that they approached to your body (Bicep Plate, Guantlet, Shin and Knee, Thigh Armor, Chest)?
2) In what of their difference what is better, more convenient? (Chest armor)
Your progress ODST is fine, very much it is pleasant to me
1) As you measured the sizes of the reservation that they approached to your body (Bicep Plate, Guantlet, Shin and Knee, Thigh Armor, Chest)?
2) In what of their difference what is better, more convenient? (Chest armor)
Hugh Holder
Well-Known Member
You can do a one part glove mould easily with two trial kits of Rebound 25. That will save you a ton of cash for other things.
Its what I used for my first mould, but this time around I wanted a thicker finish so I used a bit more.Thanks guys!
I have to say it took me a long time spent modeling before I started thinking abstractly about building objects for real world applications. You'll end up adopting different styles for whatever your final product is. In our case for armor building, this method makes sense to me. You're always welcome to show me your work.
I'll help you the best I can. PM me and I'll get back to you.Hi Hugh.
Your progress ODST is fine, very much it is pleasant to me
1) As you measured the sizes of the reservation that they approached to your body (Bicep Plate, Guantlet, Shin and Knee, Thigh Armor, Chest)?
2) In what of their difference what is better, more convenient? (Chest armor)
Thanks Igor, your ODST looks great too! If you mean how did I size the armor parts to fit my body, then I just modeled a full body 3D version of myself with the appropriate real world measurements. Then as I modeled the armor I scaled and placed it before I exported to Pepakura.
It's not the traditional method for scaling. Because I'm the author I suppose there is a sort of advantage in that regard. But I believe that the scale for anyone close to my height shouldn't have to change much. Nothing issued to me in the military was ever a glove fit anyway...
As far as your second question, those first two pics are of Rino and myself. We both are using the same chest core template that I originally built. Mine is made from pep while Rino modified the design to be made from foam.
To be honest I think that foam would be more comfortable, but as far as how much weight it can support or how comfortable it will be once all the attachments are on the front I couldn't answer you. My hardened pep chest works for me, but requires assistance to get in/out of because of it's clamshell design and weight.
The third pic to the far right is Sean Bradley, one of the original pioneers of the ODST armor. I'm not too familiar with that part, but I do know it has a large opening for your head and covers mainly your back. You do need to substitute your own shoulder straps but it seems to be the easiest to get in/out of. I'd contact him if you have any specific questions about his armor.
Hope that helps
and good luck with your build!_____________________________________________________________________
Alright, finally got this thing ready to rock. I spent some time today drilling the holes for the bolts to fit through. Didn't have any trouble demoulding the part surprisingly. This was definitely much cleaner than my first attempt!
The silicone halves also stayed separate and the wax turned out to do it's job extremely well. This mould retains its shape much better and doesn't have oversized keys that just get in the way. Because of the smoothness of the silicone layers it just sits right in the jacket and doesn't move.
I think my favorite improvement over my last attempt is the neck seal. With the cardboard placeholder I didn't have to worry about getting around the neck seal of the buck, and it also helps support the bottom as well as acts as a small wall for the plastic to run against.
Pulled the ONYX vents and attached them to the buck to see how they looked. Plus, I want to keep it around to display. Of course now I'm going to have to paint it up since the parting line I drew is sort of a distraction...
We got new lamps for one of the rooms. - Goldeny goodness.
Thanks for reading everybody. Next update will be the first pulls
spartan005
Well-Known Member
thanks man i will do that lol um i can get a 1/2 gallen for like 50 buck here in san diego so i will do that later. so i started building the chest, and center equipment files and omfg are they so nice thank you for makeing the files.......
Captain Recon
Jr Member
Cheers for the support, Hugh. Like I said, the mesh I'm working with is pants, so I'm going to re-go it from scratch using the game-ripped Halo 3 Scout model for now. This 'blocked' method is really great because the helmet keeps its shape a LOT better than just a plain net assembly (a half-finished HH ODST helmet was about as strong as a fully-assembled version of other leading brands =D).
Main problem is that the mesh just doesn't line up properly, and some of the faces are a bit buckled - this is throwing off my internal blocking. I'll get some progress together and throw it your way for crit xD
Main problem is that the mesh just doesn't line up properly, and some of the faces are a bit buckled - this is throwing off my internal blocking. I'll get some progress together and throw it your way for crit xD
Sir Tsaboc
Member
Hey Hugh, looking forward to the update!
btw, your inbox is full
btw, your inbox is full
Hugh Holder
Well-Known Member
No problem, and thanks! I'm glad the files are working out for you, let me know if you have any questions and I will help you the best I can.
Haha, thanks Recon. I don't mind taking a look at what you have, go ahead and send me a pm if you want.
My chest core is actually just fiberglass resin and Smooth Cast 320 plastic. It's hard just like it would be if I used fiberglass cloth or bondo. I don't have a lot of problem moving around in it. The weight and feel of it is similar to wearing a flak jacket in the military.
The second picture of Rino is made of EVA foam mats, or Anti-Fatigue Floor Mats. Its what is commonly used for weight lifting equipment to protect your gear and floor. It's light and flexible. It also is somewhat easy to shape from what I've read.
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First pull! I'll be honest, I'm not really satisfied/dissatisfied with it. It pretty much came out exactly the way it was supposed to, so I guess I should be happy.
I think I've just stared at this stuff for so long now that I'm kind of indifferent to how it's supposed to look.
Anyways, I had a very small amount of 320 left so for photo purposes I thought I'd use it for this first pull. It is very light but solid. I think I'm going to resin and fiberglass it just to be safe before I box it up.
The flashing isn't a big issue surprisingly. The two halves are flush and with a slight sand the seam line is taken care of.
Sir Tsaboc
Member
Looks excellent! Well done!
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