I Want To Learn How To Make A Helmet Mold

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i 8ball

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ok i have a Q i have been looking for it for at least 1 hours and cant find the answer anywhere i have seen some people ask stuff like this. Ok here it is. I want to learn how to mold a helmet but i cant find a vid of how to keep the inside from filling in if some one would have avideo of how to make one please send me a link, i have seen adams but he has no sound and i dont understand what it all means when it is just the vid of him doing somethign with something so would anyone be willing to show how to make a helment mold with talking and a good version i was thinking of just cutting the helmet in hafe then making a mold of hafe the helmet and the other hafe then holding them togather by like superglue or gorilla glue would that work. (srry if you dont understand me)
 
Okay. First off, check out the "Moldmaking for Newbies" thread posted in the "Molded Armor Discussion" sub-forum in the "Creation Discussion" forum. I'll post the link here for you:



"Moldmaking for Newbies" thread



Also, read the other stickied (pinned) topics in the "Molded Armor Discussion" sub-forum. That should help answer a few things for you, dude ;)



P.S., If you still can't find the answer you're looking (though you should, as those threads are very informative), you can PM someone from the Q&A team, and they should be able to help you out.



EDIT: One method of mold-making that I know of (actually, it's the only one I'm somewhat familiar with; a friend of mine does it this way all the time with his) is to do up what's called a two-part silicone mold. This, of course, works for the manner in which you suggested doing your helmet; cutting it in half. Typically, you can take one half of the helmet (after applying mold release agent to the original helmet) and lay it down in a box, then pour RTV silicone around it.



The silicone rubber should fill the mold box to the point where it's level with the edge of the helmet.



Let it cure (dry/harden), then you can remove the helmet. Simply repeat for the other half of the helmet, and you've got yourself a two-part mold. What you can then do is apply fiberglass (make sure to soak it with resin as you're doing so), and after that's cured you remove the casting. Make sure to apply mold release agent to the silicone mold before you fiberglass, otherwise you might have a hard time separating the casting from the mold.



I've seen it happen where someone forgets to put the release agent on the mold before making the casting, and when they try to remove the casting it's resulted in a destroyed piece. A wasted effort and expensive mistake. So, you don't want that.



Again, repeat with the second half of the mold, and once both are done you can join the two halves with epoxy resin. You needn't worry about whether or not the epoxy will hold the two halves together, as epoxy is very sturdy stuff. I've seen this done with different prop builds before, and never has the person had a problem with it staying in one piece.



Once you've epoxied the halves together and allowed the epoxy to dry/harden, you can then sand down the seam line and smooth it out. When you get around to priming/painting it, you shouldn't even be able to see the seam.



It should be noted that silicone, resin and fiberglass aren't exactly cheap materials. Also, you should wear the proper safety gear (ie. organic-filtered respirator mask, gloves, etc.) if handling such materials as they give off toxic fumes, and can be dangerous to your health.



Just FYI, this isn't the standard approach most people take with two-part molds. This is just the manner in which I've seen it done. That's one option for you, anyway.
 
It will take me two posts but here is a tut I did for Team Win and they used it without problems...



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-bk0g5VrMs[/media]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5aqWj8-_Kk[/media]



Ithica



To be continued...
 
405th Source also has a nice professional tutorial on molding a helmet as well:



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2H5CU1k9LPQ[/media]



Cheers,

Kensai
 
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