The most interesting is the increasing complexity geometry. This ensures the final results are much better and faster.
Mk 6 suit part 2
- Thread starter Hickeydog
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The most interesting is the increasing complexity geometry. This ensures the final results are much better and faster.
Wow. Long time, no update.
Finals are done (YAY), and I started my new job (DOUBLE YAY), and my mom was nice enough to buy me a gallon of Smooth-Cast 320 for Christmas (TRIPLE YAY!!!). That being said, I'm out of cardstock (not so yay). Gonna have to make a run and pick up some more. I still need to do the gauntlets and the boots. Yup. Have to make another pair of boots. My original mounting scheme (gluing shoes to the bottom of the boots) didn't work out so well.
So PLEASE give me some ideas on how to mount the boots. It's the only thing that I don't have a clear picture on how I'm going to mount. Pictures would be nice as well.
So once Christmas arrives (actually, day after Christmas. Have to work Christmas day), I'm going to be back in the shop hardening everything I have, and then it's onto the Rondo. Gonna have to build me a hot box to cure the stuff. It's gotten COLD here in Ohio. Plus the 2 feet snow we just got hasn't helped......go figure. The one time that I actually WANT a warm winter, we get the cold one. Brilliant.
Finals are done (YAY), and I started my new job (DOUBLE YAY), and my mom was nice enough to buy me a gallon of Smooth-Cast 320 for Christmas (TRIPLE YAY!!!). That being said, I'm out of cardstock (not so yay). Gonna have to make a run and pick up some more. I still need to do the gauntlets and the boots. Yup. Have to make another pair of boots. My original mounting scheme (gluing shoes to the bottom of the boots) didn't work out so well.
So PLEASE give me some ideas on how to mount the boots. It's the only thing that I don't have a clear picture on how I'm going to mount. Pictures would be nice as well.
So once Christmas arrives (actually, day after Christmas. Have to work Christmas day), I'm going to be back in the shop hardening everything I have, and then it's onto the Rondo. Gonna have to build me a hot box to cure the stuff. It's gotten COLD here in Ohio. Plus the 2 feet snow we just got hasn't helped......go figure. The one time that I actually WANT a warm winter, we get the cold one. Brilliant.
Alright. Fore arms are built. WOHO!!!! Still need to re-do the boots, but I'm going to hold off on those.
Still need ideas on how to mount the boots.
Forearms are a little on big side, but that's okay. It sure beats them being too small. I'm probably going to have to do some trimming on them to get more mobility.
But enough babbling. Onto the pics.
Still need ideas on how to mount the boots.
Forearms are a little on big side, but that's okay. It sure beats them being too small. I'm probably going to have to do some trimming on them to get more mobility.
But enough babbling. Onto the pics.
PervyBiscuit
Jr Member
O_O Loving The Clean Pep Work 
So, not being happy with the way the first two helmets came out, I built up another one. Yup.....I think my ratio of total pieces built to pieces used is something like 3:1. Have gone through 250 pages of 110 lbs cardstock, and I'm working on my second pack.
Anyways, I'm pretty happy with the way this helmet turned out. 4 more days until the Smooth Cast 320 comes into my possession. And then I shall shut myself in the shop and go nuts hardening everything. Except for the boots. Still need to build those. Might do one tomorrow. Thanks to another member's WIP (can't remember his name), I now know how to mount the bloody boots.
Anyways, I'm pretty happy with the way this helmet turned out. 4 more days until the Smooth Cast 320 comes into my possession. And then I shall shut myself in the shop and go nuts hardening everything. Except for the boots. Still need to build those. Might do one tomorrow. Thanks to another member's WIP (can't remember his name), I now know how to mount the bloody boots.
Hmm...no comments...that makes me sad. But not to worry. Now that I have my Smooth Cast 320, it's time to HARDEN HARDEN HARDEN!!!!!
And boy is this stuff messy. Much more messy than Rondo, but boy does is it hard and light. It takes a TON of layers (8 seems to be the equivalent of about 3-4 layers of Fiberglass, but a whole lot lighter). I'm still working out the best method of sealing the ends of the pieces so I can get an even layer over everything. Smooth Cast 320 has about the consistency of thick chocolate milk. It's VERY, VERY runny. Probably more runny than fiberglass resin.
The inside of a piece. It's a little sloppy, but nobody should be seeing that.
And boy is this stuff messy. Much more messy than Rondo, but boy does is it hard and light. It takes a TON of layers (8 seems to be the equivalent of about 3-4 layers of Fiberglass, but a whole lot lighter). I'm still working out the best method of sealing the ends of the pieces so I can get an even layer over everything. Smooth Cast 320 has about the consistency of thick chocolate milk. It's VERY, VERY runny. Probably more runny than fiberglass resin.
The inside of a piece. It's a little sloppy, but nobody should be seeing that.
Grave Hawk
Member
Looking good. It's cool that your not afraid to scrap a pep and start over to get the result you want. That shows a lot of patience. I'm diggin the build so far and I'll be checkin in on the progress. Keep up the good work!
On my child sized suit that I did the Smoothcast 320 instead of fiberglass thing I found that if I covered the openings with a line or 2 of 2 inch painters tape it made less mess. Now I would sometimes have to cut the tape off with a dremel if it got smoothcast on it, but thats no biggie. I also found if you work in smaller quantities of product, and kind of keep it in an area its a bit easier to control. Using Smoothcast in my opinion is still 100 times better than fiberglassing the inside. It feels alot more sturdier, and is non toxic with awesome drying times.
Your work is looking great by the way.
Your work is looking great by the way.
Wow. I tried everything you suggested, and the mess went down immensely. I'm having problems with it leaking out of the pep, but that's entirely my fault for not sealing it good with resin. I'm still leaking out on my workbench.
Also, buying one of those protective coverall bunny suits is great for protecting the clothing. Should also make a nice base for building up a duct tape dummy.
I'm about half way through my first gallon of Smooth Cast. I've got my shins, thighs, and hand plates hardened (and boy, are they HARD), and I'm almost done with the helmet and biceps. I still need a lot more on the cod piece and chest piece, and the forearms haven't been touched yet. I'm thinking that I'm going to need 2 gallons of the Smooth Cast to get this suit done. I'm using a LOT of plastic because I want this suit to be darn near indestructible. I could probably get away with much, much less, but I'm hoping to survive the apocalypse (or a teenager who wants to see just how strong it is) in this thing.
LongShot X
Well-Known Member
Wow... I have to say that your project is coming along amazingly well! Excellent folds, no warping, sharp lines and high detailed parts. I like what I see. Keep this up and you will have a FANTASTIC suit.
I also like the Starcraft 2 Spectre helm that you started... are you going to finish it too? If so, are you going to put in the lights?
Cheers!
I also like the Starcraft 2 Spectre helm that you started... are you going to finish it too? If so, are you going to put in the lights?
Cheers!
0235
Active Member
dam! 2 gallons, thats alot, though i would fix those leaks 1 so that you dont waste any, and 2 so that you have a smother surface on your workbench, i have a problem with lumps and bumps that push into my armour, making dents.
as for your pep work, i always love a good bit of peping, and that is great, really crisp and clean.
and all i cant say is i always fibregalss, and it is a real b**** to work with, soo difficult to get into nooks and crannies, and so thin you can barely sand it, and you dont get gassed out as much. keep up the good work.
as for your pep work, i always love a good bit of peping, and that is great, really crisp and clean.
and all i cant say is i always fibregalss, and it is a real b**** to work with, soo difficult to get into nooks and crannies, and so thin you can barely sand it, and you dont get gassed out as much. keep up the good work.
OMG OMG OMG OMG LONGSHOT IS POSTING IN MY THREAD!!!!!! I must have read through your WIP 10 times. I'm so giddy!!!
That Starcraft 2 Spectre helmet isn't mine. Some n00b photobombed my thread. :angry
Thanks for the compliment. I'm thinking that I'm going to be able to get it done with 1 gallon. I've got the helmet, hand plates, shins, thighs, and biceps done, with the COD piece close to being done. It's going to be close.
Why don't you just seal the holes with glue before resining?
I did. Only problem is that there's so many of them that I've invariably missed some. Especially on the chest piece. So, what I've done is shine a flashlight through the piece, and anywhere there's a bright spot, cover it with a little duct tape. Seems to work out pretty well.
LongShot X
Well-Known Member
Mh, I thought so. The idea seemed too obvious to miss
I'd like to throw cotton powder into the idea pool as well. It will thicken up the resin (I tried polyester and epoxy, but it should work with urethane as well) and if you add enough, this stuff will prevent leaks really nicely. It also saves a bit of resin, because it adds volume. The downside is that you can forget slushing it, not sure if you want to make that tradeoff because of a few holes.
When you do your first strengthening inside kind of wash over the entire inside with the 320 if you can. It will seal any holes you have left over from resin. I would use the smallest amount possible the first time, just in case it does leak out it won't waste much. You will always have a bit of waste with this method, its just unavoidable. I also did like Ventrue suggested and hot glued inside the pep any areas I thought might cause a leak.
Now I did have to use some savvy on the more open ended pieces like the shoulders. I would probably save the trouble and just fiberglass those.
Now I did have to use some savvy on the more open ended pieces like the shoulders. I would probably save the trouble and just fiberglass those.
Only mentioned 23 times in the whole thread....
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