My Iron Man/War Machine WIP: My learning experience
- Thread starter silentd3at4
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tmccarty23
Member
I couldn't hurt. The more layers of resin you add, the less warping you will get when glassing it. Just make sure that your first layer didn't warp it. I wouldn't do more than 5 layers though, but that is up to you. Also, the more layers you put on, the more you can sand the resin and not the paper or fiberglass.
What people meant about too much resin, was that you saturated the mask all at once, and some spots had clumped resin. This can cause the piece to warp and will require more sanding to clean up, but no big deal. A nice, thin, even coat is best. When that is dry and no longer tacky, add another if you want. I think your project is looking really good so far. As for it being flimsy, it will be no matter how much resin you apply. It will only be rigid after you glass it.
Hope this help, and keep up the good work.
N
Night Fury
Guest
I was gonna be iron man for halloween but I didn't have time to make the costume lol
silentd3at4
Jr Member
KK Im going to fiberglass the inside gonna do it in three steps vs all at once lol. Upside down for shoulders and up to middle of chest and back then on back get the rest of back and then on chest get rest of chest. Then after the fiberglassing I will be adding another layer of resin to the outside of the chest and back if it is not as completely solid as i would like.
I thought about it as well but there isnt enough time but still it be a cool costume piece to the upcoming Captain America, Thor, and ,ultimately, the avengers movie ^_^
I thought about it as well but there isnt enough time but still it be a cool costume piece to the upcoming Captain America, Thor, and ,ultimately, the avengers movie ^_^
silentd3at4
Jr Member
P.S. Started pepping the shoulder but I think I sized it wrong it just looks absolutely huge on me anyone know how to measure some of these pieces for the iron man suite? Ie. Shoulders from top of shoulder (ball of shoulder) or middle of shoulder (neck line), etc. I need to know how to do the correct measurements for all the pieces so if you have experience in Iron Man armor please let me know
silentd3at4
Jr Member
Bondo / Fiberglass Question
So I started the fiberglass / resin stage from shoulders to mid chest and mid back. Tomorrow (after that is dry) i will do rest of back in 1 sitting and then the rest of front in another sitting after each sitting is dry. I may or may not put a coat of resin on the outside of the armor again BUT was curious about the bondo stage since I never made it to that stage before, nor have done it and was curious
Do you have to bondo the inside of the piece as well or just the outside. (if you fiberglassed the inside of a piece?
And if you do...
Would rondoing it suffice? and in such a case if you can rondo, is fiberglassing kind of unnecessary, or redundant? and finally how do you rondo a piece of armor since it is not the same as a helmet which is like a bowl and you can roll the rondo into the crevices and the shape of the armor without it spilling everywhere?
So I started the fiberglass / resin stage from shoulders to mid chest and mid back. Tomorrow (after that is dry) i will do rest of back in 1 sitting and then the rest of front in another sitting after each sitting is dry. I may or may not put a coat of resin on the outside of the armor again BUT was curious about the bondo stage since I never made it to that stage before, nor have done it and was curious
Do you have to bondo the inside of the piece as well or just the outside. (if you fiberglassed the inside of a piece?
And if you do...
Would rondoing it suffice? and in such a case if you can rondo, is fiberglassing kind of unnecessary, or redundant? and finally how do you rondo a piece of armor since it is not the same as a helmet which is like a bowl and you can roll the rondo into the crevices and the shape of the armor without it spilling everywhere?
tmccarty23
Member
If you choose to use bondo, it should be on the outside only, as it is mainly just to smooth out rough edges and add detail.
If you fiberglassed the inside, no need to rondo. They both do the same thing..add strength and reinforce. Fiberglass is lighter, but harder to apply. Rondo adds a lot of weight, but is quick and easy. Doing both would be unnecessary. Some people, I have noticed, are using the cans of spray on bed liner to add strength, but I don't think it is necessary, unless you are planning doing some hardcore stunts in it.
Rondoing a piece of armor. I would say just mix the rondo in a separate container and quickly apply with a brush, just like the resin, that way you won't have it running all over the place.
silentd3at4
Jr Member
Well I want to bonding to make it sturdier and cleaner cause I have to sand due to the hot glue globs and strands. Hmmm decisions desicions ill keep you guys updated
tmccarty23
Member
Fiberglass or Rondo alone should be enough to make it very sturdy. Bondo by itself can actually be kind of brittle if it is in a place that receives a lot of stress. Anyway, it is your project and it is looking good. Keep us posted.
silentd3at4
Jr Member
Well on talking about bondoing to get the details not in the pep
As well to make it smoother and not so polygon in some areas question is if you bonding outside you have to do whole outside not just trouble spots
As well to make it smoother and not so polygon in some areas question is if you bonding outside you have to do whole outside not just trouble spots
tmccarty23
Member
Bondo will definitely make it smoother, if you sand it good enough, but it should only be used as a spot treatment, not for covering the whole project. You can get rid of the hard edges also by layering resin and sanding. That is my two cents, so good luck.
silentd3at4
Jr Member
Wow now im even more confused so forgive me if this conversation is going round in circles. I thought you were suppose to bondo the whole outside of your piece not just spot treatment. For example in the shoulders I need to do the x's in the shoulder part of the chest and other detailing like this across the piece so shouldn't I go ahead and do the whole piece in bondo and then sand / dremel it down?
Awesome work my man! I'm completely new to all of this, read all the stickies for noobs, but I'm still wondering how the fiberglassing happens. How do you apply fiberglass to the inside of your helmet? Glue? Do you use resin? I'm sorry if this is a stupid question, but I can't seem to find it. If you just glue it in, won't the fiberglass be touching your face when you wear the helmet?
tmccarty23
Member
It does seem to be going in circles, but that happens sometimes. Like I said, it is your project and you can do whatever you want. Bondo is strong, but it can chip and break. So if you cover a whole piece, I would make sure that piece is a rigid piece that won't be doing any flexing. So the shoulders should be alright covered in bondo. Just be warned, bondo will add weight fast, so I would just do very thin layers. The best way is to layer resin and sand when cured, it will end up being lighter, and resin will take more punishment than bondo. Hope this helps.
and @mike8213 To apply fiberglass to the inside of a helmet, cut the fiberglass into strips about 3 inch by 1 inch and apply resin to the inside of the helmet. Once the resin is applied, lay one strip of fiberglass in said resin. Then with a brush, apply more resin over the fiberglass until saturated. Rinse, repeat. It is better to do it little by little than to do one big piece, as it will more than likely warp. As for the pep files, have you tried the search function? Also Google works well.
It does seem to be going in circles, but that happens sometimes. Like I said, it is your project and you can do whatever you want. Bondo is strong, but it can chip and break. So if you cover a whole piece, I would make sure that piece is a rigid piece that won't be doing any flexing. So the shoulders should be alright covered in bondo. Just be warned, bondo will add weight fast, so I would just do very thin layers. The best way is to layer resin and sand when cured, it will end up being lighter, and resin will take more punishment than bondo. Hope this helps.
and @mike8213 To apply fiberglass to the inside of a helmet, cut the fiberglass into strips about 3 inch by 1 inch and apply resin to the inside of the helmet. Once the resin is applied, lay one strip of fiberglass in said resin. Then with a brush, apply more resin over the fiberglass until saturated. Rinse, repeat. It is better to do it little by little than to do one big piece, as it will more than likely warp. As for the pep files, have you tried the search function? Also Google works well.
LoL, yeah, I've tried searching. When I search these forums results pull up for me, but when I click on the threads it redirects me to the main page. I am not sure if that's a problem site wide with all users, or just my retarded PC
. I do have the 405th pep pack though, and I am going to start going through that today. As per the fiberglassing, thank you! I'm pretty sure the 5-6 tutorials that are specifically titled about fiberglassing don't actually tell how it's done. Then again, I probably read over them.Question for you. I have yet to start a project, I am going to start with a helmet of some kind, probably Iron Man because the geometry seems easier, but I am probably just going to resin 3 coats on the outside of the helmet, would you recommend sanding between coats? Not sure if that will give a better overall finish. And I originally happened on this thread because of questions about the bondo. Can you apply resin after bondo'ing, or is bondo the final step before painting.
tmccarty23
Member
Sometimes when I click on a link, it will redirect me too, so I don't know what's up with that. Anyway, I would recommend applying all 3 layers of resin, then sanding, for two reasons. One, if you sand after only one coat, you will pretty much sand of 70 to 90 percent of the resin you applied, so kind of pointless. Two, you want to have a couple of layers so you don't sand through the paper and make a hole. One thing though, is you should definitely apply the fiberglass on the inside BEFORE you start sanding. This will make it strong enough, otherwise your helmet will crumple.
As for resin after bondo, I wouldn't. Bondo is meant to be painted, therefore should be the last step (minus sanding) before paint. If you are worried that bondo will not be as strong as resin, I wouldn't. I accidentally dropped my helmet the other day and it landed on a concrete floor and was fine. Once bondo is cured, it is really strong.
I hope this helps, and if you have anymore questions, feel free to ask.
As for resin after bondo, I wouldn't. Bondo is meant to be painted, therefore should be the last step (minus sanding) before paint. If you are worried that bondo will not be as strong as resin, I wouldn't. I accidentally dropped my helmet the other day and it landed on a concrete floor and was fine. Once bondo is cured, it is really strong.
I hope this helps, and if you have anymore questions, feel free to ask.
Alright, well I'm not attempting to hi-jack the thread, but I've noticed another thread about sizing started up by Silent, and after checking my head measurements I put the scale for the helmet at 1.27. The only problem is now the parts print over multiple sheets. How does one go about using these printouts? Do you glue the peices back together or wha? I'm assured to have to do this with all the peices of war machine, because I'm a big guy.
silentd3at4
Jr Member
Hey mike what I have to do is rotate the pieces put em on angles and what not to fit them on one page. Other times there is no way around splitting the piece (depending on the size) you will have to to separate the pieces onto separate pages and then print them. but DONT just have them overlay onto another page. There is a button with a zipper in the upper left corner. Click this then the piece to "slice" the piece and it will create tabs on the 2 halves of the piece and of course move accordingly to fit both halves on same page or separate pages.
EDIT: Dont feel like your hijacking. Your questions help me, or can help others and I want this to be a comprehensive iron man help as well as my wip thread. So ask away!
EDIT: Dont feel like your hijacking. Your questions help me, or can help others and I want this to be a comprehensive iron man help as well as my wip thread. So ask away!
silentd3at4
Jr Member
So Adam would you still apply 3 coats of resin even if you plan on bondoing the entire piece and then sanding? OR would you suggest just resining once outside, then Fiberglassing inside, then just bondoing and sanding once you are done putting an even coat of bondo across the piece? It seems if you plan on bondoing 3 coats of resin would be a waste?
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