Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
- Member DIN
- S2424
Sassmuffin. Add it to Blackwell’s dictionary!!!
Reach Jun Build (Foam/fibreglass + custom undersuit)
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TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
Electraknite
Active Member
TurboCharizard nice sheikah slate! I gotta pay more attention to your BotW thread.
And here is my wonderful progress for the night.
neck clip and arm clip, I'll probably tweak them for a couple more days before i finalize them.
And here is my wonderful progress for the night.
neck clip and arm clip, I'll probably tweak them for a couple more days before i finalize them.
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Electraknite
Active Member
Dropbox link of the .stl files I've created so far HERE If anyone else is interested. (Also let me know if it works properly)
Neck Clip
Arm Clip Tac/Patrol clip
I wont need that tac clip anytime soon but I was having fun so made it too.
TurboCharizard
Neck Clip
Arm Clip Tac/Patrol clip
I wont need that tac clip anytime soon but I was having fun so made it too.
TurboCharizard
TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
Just double checking that these are to the scale you wanted, the arm clips are a lot smaller than I expected.
I'll print them up for you with settings like this in eSun PLA+
Electraknite
Active Member
Hmm you're right they do look small, let me double check on those.
Edit:
TurboCharizard K fixed it, and re-uploaded it to the dropbox.
Edit:
TurboCharizard K fixed it, and re-uploaded it to the dropbox.
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mblackwell1002
Sr Member
No.
Very cool undersuit so far, electricknite. I didn't realize you were into 3D modeling, either. very cool.
TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
Well aren't you the little sassmuffin today?
mblackwell1002
Sr Member
Electraknite
Active Member
Allllrighty, now that con season is coming up I'm starting to panic slightly....and spring doesn't seem to be coming anytime soon so I'm starting to think I may have to vent my basement so I can do more resin coating and stuff. The armor is more important then the under suit after all. I have a respirator and a tarp and a window... Is that enough to keep the toxic smells from wafting upstairs do you think?
As far as the under suit goes. I think I'm in the home stretch. Couple patches on the arms, some redundant crotch detail then hemming and then the clips. Hopefully 2 weeks is enough for that. Won't get to the leggings until after Calgary expo probably.
How long after resin and fibreglass does the finishing process take usually? Sanding/filler/paint?
I just want it to be wearable by Calgary expo. The rucksacks and extra attachments that make it Jun can come later.
As far as the under suit goes. I think I'm in the home stretch. Couple patches on the arms, some redundant crotch detail then hemming and then the clips. Hopefully 2 weeks is enough for that. Won't get to the leggings until after Calgary expo probably.
How long after resin and fibreglass does the finishing process take usually? Sanding/filler/paint?
I just want it to be wearable by Calgary expo. The rucksacks and extra attachments that make it Jun can come later.
TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
I've got a pair of paint and pesticide rated respirators, a couple of box fans and a window. The correct procedure is before spraying yell "GAS, GAS, GAS" and everything is good, it's everyone elses fault if they didn't get their mask on in time.
SI3RRA 117
Well-Known Member
- Member DIN
- S240
Ya you’ll never vent all the fumes out a window not without some serious fan power
mblackwell1002
Sr Member
You could go with safer materials like Smooth-On's "Smooth Cast" resin. I swear i'm not sponsored by Smooth-On, btw.
The fumes are much less toxic. The plastic is a bit thicker than fiberglass resin, but if you get the right types, you might have an easier solution on your hands. Some of the resins are thicker than others, some might work better than others. You can use some of the thicker resins instead of Rondo if you would like. This way, you'll be capable of wearing the helmet without smelling the aftermath of Bondo. The cure times are a little faster, but depending on the types pf resin you get, you'll be fine with a lot less ventilation.
IDK, just some more information to think about.
The fumes are much less toxic. The plastic is a bit thicker than fiberglass resin, but if you get the right types, you might have an easier solution on your hands. Some of the resins are thicker than others, some might work better than others. You can use some of the thicker resins instead of Rondo if you would like. This way, you'll be capable of wearing the helmet without smelling the aftermath of Bondo. The cure times are a little faster, but depending on the types pf resin you get, you'll be fine with a lot less ventilation.
IDK, just some more information to think about.
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TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
Might want to double check that. From the Smooth On site. When in doubt, don the safety gear.
Ventilation
Avoid breathing in plaster dust, mist from aerosol sprayers or fumes of any kind, etc. When using any material associated with mold making and casting, you must have "room size" ventilation (400 ft² / 38 m²) or greater.
If using these materials on a regular basis, you should install an external ventilation system in your workshop and use all materials in proximity to the working vent. Wearing a NIOSH-approved respirator will further minimize risk of inhalation.
Avoid breathing in plaster dust, mist from aerosol sprayers or fumes of any kind, etc. When using any material associated with mold making and casting, you must have "room size" ventilation (400 ft² / 38 m²) or greater.
If using these materials on a regular basis, you should install an external ventilation system in your workshop and use all materials in proximity to the working vent. Wearing a NIOSH-approved respirator will further minimize risk of inhalation.
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
If the basement has a door... then maybe it will air out eventually and not waft, but that smell is going to be around for awhile. If when I would bring the resined pieces to a new building they would fill up the air there. Took about two weeks till the pieces weren't stinky.
mblackwell1002
Sr Member
Ok, you're right. Edited my post. Polyester resins, (such as fiberglass resin) are horrible. Urethane resins are much, much less toxic and cure way faster. The solvents are designed to run their course much faster than polyester resins, so they will become dormant much faster.
My point is that you won't have to freak out about ventilation quite as much. You'll still want to wear a respirator, but the process would be much safer. I doubt the fumes will breach the basement.
Electraknite
Active Member
I already have polyester resin that I'd like to use up first. I have probably 2/3 of the can left. Has anyone layered epoxy resin over polyester resin after its cured? Does it bond at all or react?
mblackwell1002
Sr Member
Not sure. I have an old fiberglassed pep helmet that i slush some resin into for a test.
FOR SCIENCE!
FOR SCIENCE!
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
*The Enrichment Center is required to remind you that the Weighted Companion Cube cannot talk. In the event that it does talk the Enrichment Center asks that you ignore its advice.*
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