TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
I can't wait to see the shots of this suit out in the wild and in action!
Shift Into Turbo! A Power Ranger/Carranger Log (Red Racer)
- Thread starter 3DVagabond
- Start date
3DVagabond
Active Member
It's Update Time!
...
...7 weeks and 4 days lay-turrrr...
THE AUTO BLASTER IS DONE!
But it's far from over. As of right now, I've created enough space for me to get the parts to pop out as shown below.
However, the final part of the process of this prop, the mechanics of how to get it to work, is currently in the making. I am currently in talks with a machinist, who studied at the University of Alabama, about making a system to make this idea into a reality.
So the plan is to make this pop out in the same fashion as it does on the first episode of Carranger. Red Racer pulls the fin back and in turn makes the "engine" move forward. The side panels pop out and the turbine spins in the process. Of course, I will have to insert the LED to make it light up, but will focus on that when the mechanic system is done.
To get a better idea on how it's suppose to turn out, simply go to the Shout Factory website and look for Engine Sentai Carranger Episode 1 after the 17 minute mark to see where I'm going with this.
That's all for now! Until next time!
...
...7 weeks and 4 days lay-turrrr...
THE AUTO BLASTER IS DONE!
But it's far from over. As of right now, I've created enough space for me to get the parts to pop out as shown below.
However, the final part of the process of this prop, the mechanics of how to get it to work, is currently in the making. I am currently in talks with a machinist, who studied at the University of Alabama, about making a system to make this idea into a reality.
So the plan is to make this pop out in the same fashion as it does on the first episode of Carranger. Red Racer pulls the fin back and in turn makes the "engine" move forward. The side panels pop out and the turbine spins in the process. Of course, I will have to insert the LED to make it light up, but will focus on that when the mechanic system is done.
To get a better idea on how it's suppose to turn out, simply go to the Shout Factory website and look for Engine Sentai Carranger Episode 1 after the 17 minute mark to see where I'm going with this.
That's all for now! Until next time!
Last edited:
TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
Apologies for using you render (it looks amazing by the way) but something simple like this may work to give the movement you want.
Grey blocks are just for extensions of the parts you need, blue rectangles are linkages that interconnect and the yellow circle is a pin the the center linkage rotates about. I'm not sure if your modelling software is good for simulating motion of parts but with the work we've seen you pull off I'm sure you can chunk through a problem like this.
Grey blocks are just for extensions of the parts you need, blue rectangles are linkages that interconnect and the yellow circle is a pin the the center linkage rotates about. I'm not sure if your modelling software is good for simulating motion of parts but with the work we've seen you pull off I'm sure you can chunk through a problem like this.
3DVagabond
Active Member
Very funny that you demonstrated that idea in the picture. I was searching on how to make it open for days after the machinist told me on how to get it to work. He was the one to introduce me to movable cams and I looked on like on how to make it work on this prop. None that I've seen were possible because of the location and all the extra moving parts to get it going. That's when I came across this a week and a half ago.
The mechanism encircled in red is the ONLY way I can make that possible. It's an ideal mechanism to open up the engine, but need to ensure that the panels open up at the same time. I will need to at least find the name of the mechanism so I can get a better idea to involve it as part of the design.
I was thinking about using Blender to create an animation simulation of the prop. So I will keep in mind as demonstration for advertisement when I go into mass production. But hey, if you have an idea on making it work, have it!
TurboCharizard
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S068
Depending on how far it needs to go you could have a spring in tension holding the two halves shut and when you pull pack the central linkange presses forward into a wedge on another set in an arrangement similar to the one in the top left. That would make it reset back into place and when you pull back on the rear it extends the forward arm and presses the two side panels out simultaneously. Assembly of pieces might be a bit messy with so many parts in such a small space but everything is fairly simple.
3DVagabond
Active Member
I went searching online after reading your post and there was this 1 word that reached out to me, linkage. So after 20 minutes of searching, I finally found the mechanism I was looking for. Reverse Linkage Motion. That is what the Z mechanism is called. Here's an example of it.
It starts at the 1 minute and 20 second mark.
Now, all I have to do is to go back and apply it into the design. Once confirmed by the machinist, I can get to work on it and that will pretty much solves that issue!
3DVagabond
Active Member
Update: It's a short one. I think I should use the four bar linkage mechanism instead. Here's an example.
3DVagabond
Active Member
Update Time! So It's been 3 and a half weeks since the last posting and I've been racking my brain trying to solve 1 issue to the prop before I send it to have the screw threads installed. I searched online for any possible ways to make that happen. I couldn't use the sliding half cam idea anymore because I came across another issue. How will the bottom lower panel stay in place when its lowered? That's when I came across another video that could provide an answer.
This is an example of an umbrella mechanism. As it pushes it forward, it pops 2 of the arms together while being pushed by the other part.
Now I combined the reverse motion linkage to the umbrella mechanism, then I get this result.
Now, looking back at it, it could work in theory. However, the true question is this. If I pull the back part backwards, what's forcing the green part to move forward? Sure, I can make this happen in the confines of 3d space, but in reality, I am missing something crucial here. I'll try to look at some more videos to find my answers.
This is an example of an umbrella mechanism. As it pushes it forward, it pops 2 of the arms together while being pushed by the other part.
Now I combined the reverse motion linkage to the umbrella mechanism, then I get this result.
Now, looking back at it, it could work in theory. However, the true question is this. If I pull the back part backwards, what's forcing the green part to move forward? Sure, I can make this happen in the confines of 3d space, but in reality, I am missing something crucial here. I'll try to look at some more videos to find my answers.
3DVagabond
Active Member
In a dream last night, I was working with a group that was working on a 3d print of Star Wars' Death Star and wind up becoming a Sarrus Linkage instead...
Any whooooooooooo, it's update time! Yeah, it's an odd way to start this post, but here's the reason why. For the past two weeks, I've been racking my brain trying to solve 2 issues. The first issue was to find a way in pull it back while pushing the other part forward. I finally found it.
Take a look at this picture.
This is a dual rack and pinion. Here's how it works. The blue and green parts are racks that allow the pinion(the white gear) to move. As the blue rack pulls back, it turns the pinion counter-clockwise, and uses that motion to push the green rack forward at the same time. When this prop is finished, I may provide an animation on how that part works. The biggest and final challenge is making the front panels pop out. The problem with the panels is two fold. The first one is making the upper front panel to work by raising it upwards. If I can solve that issue, that part will be done. The second part of the challenge is that if I push the panel with the engine, the bottom part will fall off without something holding it in place. If I can find a way to release and draw in the bottom panel, this prop will be complete. I will be working on this for the remainder of the day and if I come across to any results, I'll post them here.
Until next time, talk to you later!
Any whooooooooooo, it's update time! Yeah, it's an odd way to start this post, but here's the reason why. For the past two weeks, I've been racking my brain trying to solve 2 issues. The first issue was to find a way in pull it back while pushing the other part forward. I finally found it.
Take a look at this picture.
This is a dual rack and pinion. Here's how it works. The blue and green parts are racks that allow the pinion(the white gear) to move. As the blue rack pulls back, it turns the pinion counter-clockwise, and uses that motion to push the green rack forward at the same time. When this prop is finished, I may provide an animation on how that part works. The biggest and final challenge is making the front panels pop out. The problem with the panels is two fold. The first one is making the upper front panel to work by raising it upwards. If I can solve that issue, that part will be done. The second part of the challenge is that if I push the panel with the engine, the bottom part will fall off without something holding it in place. If I can find a way to release and draw in the bottom panel, this prop will be complete. I will be working on this for the remainder of the day and if I come across to any results, I'll post them here.
Until next time, talk to you later!
3DVagabond
Active Member
Update Time! So after trying to figure out the issue with the mechanism for days at time, I realized that the answer was already underneath my nose the whole time! Allow me to explain.
This is a Scott Russell linkage. This 2 century plus old mechanism works by creating vertical movement through a sliding motion. Like this!
Now, you maybe thinking, "Okay so how are you going to make it work in the prop?" So glad you asked. Sort of speak. After taking a look at the situation, I combined both the dual rack and pinion mechanism and the Scott Russell linkage with a few modifications. This is the end result.
When I modified it, in theory, I was hoping that it would work as exactly as the other image showed when extended. So over the weekend, I fired up the 3d printer and tested it out. Here's a video of my results.
With this demonstration, I have successfully reversed engineered THIS part of the mechanics for the prop. Now, there is still one more part I need to get over and that is a lot easier than trying to crack the mechanical part of the prop. As I mentioned before, the prop has 3 functions I am trying to replicate. First one is that it has to pop out as it pulls. That part is done. The second part is that it has to light up. That is also easy, but I also have to consider the fact that enough wiring has to be considered because the movement process of the prop. If I make it too short, it might pull the circuit apart. Finally, the prop has to spin at a certain point. I will have to modify a DC motor like this.
Now, I would like to go into the actual next phase in the plan after this which involves screw threads for the prop. However, I will have to move it into a different program, FreeCAD. FreeCAD is another open source 3d modeling program, but it's more focused CAD design. I'm two steps away from having a working prop for the costume and if I really put my nose to the grind, I could have it ready for testing by early May.
I'll post for another update later this week if I can. Until next time, talk to you later!
This is a Scott Russell linkage. This 2 century plus old mechanism works by creating vertical movement through a sliding motion. Like this!
Now, you maybe thinking, "Okay so how are you going to make it work in the prop?" So glad you asked. Sort of speak. After taking a look at the situation, I combined both the dual rack and pinion mechanism and the Scott Russell linkage with a few modifications. This is the end result.
When I modified it, in theory, I was hoping that it would work as exactly as the other image showed when extended. So over the weekend, I fired up the 3d printer and tested it out. Here's a video of my results.
With this demonstration, I have successfully reversed engineered THIS part of the mechanics for the prop. Now, there is still one more part I need to get over and that is a lot easier than trying to crack the mechanical part of the prop. As I mentioned before, the prop has 3 functions I am trying to replicate. First one is that it has to pop out as it pulls. That part is done. The second part is that it has to light up. That is also easy, but I also have to consider the fact that enough wiring has to be considered because the movement process of the prop. If I make it too short, it might pull the circuit apart. Finally, the prop has to spin at a certain point. I will have to modify a DC motor like this.
Now, I would like to go into the actual next phase in the plan after this which involves screw threads for the prop. However, I will have to move it into a different program, FreeCAD. FreeCAD is another open source 3d modeling program, but it's more focused CAD design. I'm two steps away from having a working prop for the costume and if I really put my nose to the grind, I could have it ready for testing by early May.
I'll post for another update later this week if I can. Until next time, talk to you later!
3DVagabond
Active Member
Two months and 1 week has passed since I last made a post and WHOOOOOOOOO! There was a lot of set backs! So what exactly happened? For starters, it was the mechanism itself. Yes, I discovered a way to create motion for the pop up, but there was one more issue I discovered. How far back I need to pull it to prevent it from going too high on the linkage? So all through out April, I searched the net trying to find other mechanisms to make it work. I was on the verge of giving up the mechanism idea entirely until one day in May, I came across this one mechanism I never thought of before.
Telescopic mechanics. It was late into that night I had no idea if this would work or not. So I tested another "prototype" in Blender combining everything I knew up to that point about how the telescopic idea actually works.
So I took the idea of making the Scott Russell mechanism, created a runner out of it and changed the pulling mechanism to have a block on the top. The result?
When the grey holder block pulls the runner to the green model, via the north rack, the runner stops at a certain point in the body. But the part of the north rack acts as a relay to run inside the space in the runner until it too hits the tiny block preventing the rack from moving any further.
all the while the test model piece that would be controlled by the linkages creates the motion of moving the part in a vertical direction.
For those who wish for a more shortened explanation, I setup blocks in certain parts of the model to create the vertical popup motion with just one movement solving the pop up mechanism dilemma once and for all!
After I finished the applying the idea to the main prototype, in comes the second problem. The wiring setup. I have to figure out how the inner workings of the prop works as far as its lighting system is concerned. Bandai created the Auto Blaster for Carranger and for Power Rangers Turbo respectively. However, there's nothing on the web on the schematics showing how it functions... So this past Thursday, I bought the toy version for 33 dollars on E Bay. Once I get it to my house, I'll open it up see how it works, put it back together and apply what I learned from there to the full sized version.
As of right now, the status of the Auto Blaster that I created is basically done. Just need to figure out where to create the screw threads and it will be ready to print. I'll post a video demo for everything in the not too distant future.
Until next time, see you on the next posting.
Telescopic mechanics. It was late into that night I had no idea if this would work or not. So I tested another "prototype" in Blender combining everything I knew up to that point about how the telescopic idea actually works.
So I took the idea of making the Scott Russell mechanism, created a runner out of it and changed the pulling mechanism to have a block on the top. The result?
When the grey holder block pulls the runner to the green model, via the north rack, the runner stops at a certain point in the body. But the part of the north rack acts as a relay to run inside the space in the runner until it too hits the tiny block preventing the rack from moving any further.
all the while the test model piece that would be controlled by the linkages creates the motion of moving the part in a vertical direction.
For those who wish for a more shortened explanation, I setup blocks in certain parts of the model to create the vertical popup motion with just one movement solving the pop up mechanism dilemma once and for all!
After I finished the applying the idea to the main prototype, in comes the second problem. The wiring setup. I have to figure out how the inner workings of the prop works as far as its lighting system is concerned. Bandai created the Auto Blaster for Carranger and for Power Rangers Turbo respectively. However, there's nothing on the web on the schematics showing how it functions... So this past Thursday, I bought the toy version for 33 dollars on E Bay. Once I get it to my house, I'll open it up see how it works, put it back together and apply what I learned from there to the full sized version.
As of right now, the status of the Auto Blaster that I created is basically done. Just need to figure out where to create the screw threads and it will be ready to print. I'll post a video demo for everything in the not too distant future.
Until next time, see you on the next posting.
3DVagabond
Active Member
Update time... I finally got the actual toy created 24 years ago and let me tell you this toy is a lot bigger than I expected!
Behold! The Power Rangers Turbo Auto Blaster!
This item comes in at 9 1/8th inches long and 2 inches wide. When extended, it stretches to 12 3/4th inches.
And now, I'm going to show some pictures of taking this thing apart!
If you are a collector of vintage toys, you might want to avert your eyes.
It runs on 2 double AA batteries connected to...
A special tactical button that connects to a circuit board that controls the lights and sound. Oh, by the way before you move on, take a look at the bottom right hand corner of the image. Looks familiar? It's the exact same mechanism that was applied when I reverse engineered the prop in the first place! When I found out about that, I just laughed my ass off knowing that they had the same idea! What where the odds?
So the handle is responsible with keeping the side panels in place while in use. There are pegs shown on the handle to get a better grip on these parts.
Now, what I what I forgot about it the fact that it is spring loaded by pressing a button on the "engine". I guess Bandai had the same issue on making it pop open while it's pulled open. But at least I know how its panel works!
Of course, the end of the blaster has a chrome like finish and it's hallow in order for the LED Bulb to be placed inside.
The "tires" come off.
Well, that's all for now! I'll have to make a few more changes in order to finalize the piece. Until the next post, see you later!
Edit. I'm editing this post because I forgot to finish explaining what the other pictures purpose here.
So dealing with the car panels on the part where it pops out, It was split in half for easier installation. That was another issue that I had to deal with.
I think I should be okay with overcoming this step since I was planning on making screw threads anyway. I just need to learn how to make them connect.
Now, I suppose that when Bandai was given the task of making this weapon, they too had the anti gravity issue as well to prevent it from falling out. Their design is pretty smart in comparison since I knew there was going to be something in order to stop it falling out. I may consider this setup later on, but not in the exact fashion as this to make it unique.
Alright. That's it for the time being. I have to go and finish it before I 3d print the parts.
Behold! The Power Rangers Turbo Auto Blaster!
This item comes in at 9 1/8th inches long and 2 inches wide. When extended, it stretches to 12 3/4th inches.
And now, I'm going to show some pictures of taking this thing apart!
If you are a collector of vintage toys, you might want to avert your eyes.
It runs on 2 double AA batteries connected to...
A special tactical button that connects to a circuit board that controls the lights and sound. Oh, by the way before you move on, take a look at the bottom right hand corner of the image. Looks familiar? It's the exact same mechanism that was applied when I reverse engineered the prop in the first place! When I found out about that, I just laughed my ass off knowing that they had the same idea! What where the odds?
So the handle is responsible with keeping the side panels in place while in use. There are pegs shown on the handle to get a better grip on these parts.
Now, what I what I forgot about it the fact that it is spring loaded by pressing a button on the "engine". I guess Bandai had the same issue on making it pop open while it's pulled open. But at least I know how its panel works!
Of course, the end of the blaster has a chrome like finish and it's hallow in order for the LED Bulb to be placed inside.
The "tires" come off.
Well, that's all for now! I'll have to make a few more changes in order to finalize the piece. Until the next post, see you later!
Edit. I'm editing this post because I forgot to finish explaining what the other pictures purpose here.
So dealing with the car panels on the part where it pops out, It was split in half for easier installation. That was another issue that I had to deal with.
I think I should be okay with overcoming this step since I was planning on making screw threads anyway. I just need to learn how to make them connect.
Now, I suppose that when Bandai was given the task of making this weapon, they too had the anti gravity issue as well to prevent it from falling out. Their design is pretty smart in comparison since I knew there was going to be something in order to stop it falling out. I may consider this setup later on, but not in the exact fashion as this to make it unique.
Alright. That's it for the time being. I have to go and finish it before I 3d print the parts.
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3DVagabond
Active Member
It's been 2 months and 2 weeks since the last post.
As of today, I have a total of 25 days to get every thing together for the next convention. So far, I am a head of the game by at least 1 day. However, during that time, the same issue raised its ugly head. It was the mechanism. So I decided to use the same mechanism, the rack and pinion setup, to move the mechanism up. It works in theory and inside the simulation. However due to the fact that after the printing the updated engine part, I really don't see it coming to fruition any time soon. I've gone back and changed it so many times, I have officially burned out of the ideal setup I had of this prop.
So, in an effort to keep things moving along, I have decided to take the actual Auto Blaster and repair the soldering on the toy. Meanwhile, I will have to create another helmet and make some adjustments in the suit in an effort to get this thing ready for the next convention.
For some reason, the oddest things always happen around August to September that throws a monkey wrench into things.
As of today, I have a total of 25 days to get every thing together for the next convention. So far, I am a head of the game by at least 1 day. However, during that time, the same issue raised its ugly head. It was the mechanism. So I decided to use the same mechanism, the rack and pinion setup, to move the mechanism up. It works in theory and inside the simulation. However due to the fact that after the printing the updated engine part, I really don't see it coming to fruition any time soon. I've gone back and changed it so many times, I have officially burned out of the ideal setup I had of this prop.
So, in an effort to keep things moving along, I have decided to take the actual Auto Blaster and repair the soldering on the toy. Meanwhile, I will have to create another helmet and make some adjustments in the suit in an effort to get this thing ready for the next convention.
For some reason, the oddest things always happen around August to September that throws a monkey wrench into things.
3DVagabond
Active Member
Sometimes, I hate being right. Alright. So I have 2 weeks and 2 days to get everything together and so far, my plans on trying to creating a mother mold of the helmet I made has been shot. I had an idea to where I was going to create another helmet from the mold, but for some reason I screwed up the process by forgetting to place down some mold release. So time for plan B. I'm going to need some ideas on re painting the helmet I already made. There are some small chips of paint on certain parts of the helmet where the PLA+ plastic surface is showing. If any one can lend some tips on how to fix it that would be great. Meanwhile, I'm going ahead on printing the prototype Auto Blaster and adjusting my suit. I am still ahead of the game!
3DVagabond
Active Member
It's been nearly a month and things are moving along nicely. However, for the past 3 weeks, a couple of thoughts have came to light that makes me say, "Holy S*@%! You know you're right! I could make these things at home with the knowledge I have!
What the hell am I talking about? Hear me out because all of this is doable after further research online.
With the equipment I have accumulated so far with the Ender-3 3D Printer, CR-10 3D Printer and the Singer Sewing machine, I can actually create the entire suit myself from the helmet to the boots! Yes, this is can be done with all the research I've done. Here's the steps that are going to be taken to pull this off.
First thing's first. Let's talk about the one thing that can be very hard to achieve. Visors! This idea has been on my mind as far back as 2019. Remember the visor I made for the helmet? Well that was vacuum formed if you have forgotten about it. The downside to the making of that visor is that with the thickness of the PETG sheet, it has to be exposed to heat twice! Once, in an oven and again in the tinting process. Exposing to that much heat in the process may not keep its shape for long due to how thin the sheet is. However, this idea has actually been thrown around here on this site!
www.405th.com
Now, according to the link, it can be done, but there are some caveats to the idea. You can click on the link to read the pitfalls can occur.
I kept searching online and soon found the tutorial that can make the idea possible!
www.therpf.com
Note: I'm not entirely sure if this is like a "rival" or not, but knowledge is knowledge as long as it's useful.
Anyway, I'm going to use Smooth On Crystal Clear 200 resin to get the visor shape and will have to make some more investments to get the best results. I will also need to invest in Mold Star 30 and a vacuum degassing chamber kit. It says that according to the Smooth On website, that you will need to pre heat the rubber mold. So I will have to create a heat box to pull this off just in case.
All of this will cost me at least 660 to make before taxes.
For the next idea is the gloves. I realized that I had every thing I needed to make the gloves but the material. I just need some foam to go over the knuckles later. More info on the gloves at a later point.
Finally, I'm going to try and make some boots. I have the information needed to make them. However, I would need a bit more info to create a boot outsole mold. More on that as well. I need to read up on that.
So if successful, I can create an entire suit "in house"!
What the hell am I talking about? Hear me out because all of this is doable after further research online.
With the equipment I have accumulated so far with the Ender-3 3D Printer, CR-10 3D Printer and the Singer Sewing machine, I can actually create the entire suit myself from the helmet to the boots! Yes, this is can be done with all the research I've done. Here's the steps that are going to be taken to pull this off.
First thing's first. Let's talk about the one thing that can be very hard to achieve. Visors! This idea has been on my mind as far back as 2019. Remember the visor I made for the helmet? Well that was vacuum formed if you have forgotten about it. The downside to the making of that visor is that with the thickness of the PETG sheet, it has to be exposed to heat twice! Once, in an oven and again in the tinting process. Exposing to that much heat in the process may not keep its shape for long due to how thin the sheet is. However, this idea has actually been thrown around here on this site!
Props - Liquid-plastic molded visor: Feasible? Please help
Hi everyone, I don't have pep or a vacformer, so when it comes to visors my options are pretty limited, especially domed ones such as EVA and Pilot variants. I recently did a pretty rough visor for an Emile build but I'm not too happy with it, so I was wondering: Is it possible to use clear...
www.405th.com
Now, according to the link, it can be done, but there are some caveats to the idea. You can click on the link to read the pitfalls can occur.
I kept searching online and soon found the tutorial that can make the idea possible!
Rotocasting with clear resins: Tips and tricks for success
Let’s share how to rotocast with clear resins! They are notoriously more troublesome than opaque resins for a number of reasons, so I thought it would be helpful to the model-making community to have a thread for this stuff. If a thread like this already exists please forgive me, point me in...
www.therpf.com
Note: I'm not entirely sure if this is like a "rival" or not, but knowledge is knowledge as long as it's useful.
Anyway, I'm going to use Smooth On Crystal Clear 200 resin to get the visor shape and will have to make some more investments to get the best results. I will also need to invest in Mold Star 30 and a vacuum degassing chamber kit. It says that according to the Smooth On website, that you will need to pre heat the rubber mold. So I will have to create a heat box to pull this off just in case.
All of this will cost me at least 660 to make before taxes.
For the next idea is the gloves. I realized that I had every thing I needed to make the gloves but the material. I just need some foam to go over the knuckles later. More info on the gloves at a later point.
Finally, I'm going to try and make some boots. I have the information needed to make them. However, I would need a bit more info to create a boot outsole mold. More on that as well. I need to read up on that.
So if successful, I can create an entire suit "in house"!
3DVagabond
Active Member
Happy Anniversary! It has been 3 years since I worked on this project and I'm about to turn the corner of starting to make this costume in house. But first... I HAVE SLIDES!
All of these pictures were taken at Rangerstop and Pop in August of this year. Courtesy of Yub Yub Commander from Facebook.
There are still some alterations I need to make, so I need to get on track of that.
Anyway, so I have a plan on making the boots. Here's the idea.
Step 1: I create the outsole mold in Blender. Now, for those who never made a shoe or a boot, like I have, the outsole is the bottom of the boot that helps you create a grip on the ground as you walk. Of course I will have to create the design of the outsole mold to personalize it with my own symbol. More on that much later in the future.
Step 2: I print out the mold after I measure my foot and leg to the right measurements.
Step 3: Due to the state it will be with the layer lines, I will have to sand that down to a smooth finish. That way the rubber being used won't show any layer lines.
Step 4: I will have to create a boot pattern on Blender. For these boots, there's nothing too out there with the design. It only has 2 color fabrics for me to sew together. Once the boot is ready, I can export it out and print it in the same fashion I made the suit.
Step 5: This is where things get a little difficult. According to multiple sites around the net when it comes to making the boots, the best way to make them is by using an industrial machine to combine the pieces together. However, I don't have the money or the space to buy one at this time. I was thinking of using my sewing machine, but due to what I will have to combine in the process, I will have to resort to using the cemented construction method. That means I will have to glue the boots together to finish it off. I came across some tips and tricks during my search that can help in the process.
If all goes according to plan, I can officially make any of the ranger suits I want at any time!
All that is left are the gloves. I will have to study the ones I have and create a template on my own to see if I can replicate it. As I stated before, Cacazan gloves are not cheap and there is a waiting period on the shipping. However, I can sew them together on my sewing machine since I have the right tools. The only thing now is to get the right thread and materials. I can get started on working on that over the winter season.
Anyway, that's all for now! Until the next update, see you around!
All of these pictures were taken at Rangerstop and Pop in August of this year. Courtesy of Yub Yub Commander from Facebook.
There are still some alterations I need to make, so I need to get on track of that.
Anyway, so I have a plan on making the boots. Here's the idea.
Step 1: I create the outsole mold in Blender. Now, for those who never made a shoe or a boot, like I have, the outsole is the bottom of the boot that helps you create a grip on the ground as you walk. Of course I will have to create the design of the outsole mold to personalize it with my own symbol. More on that much later in the future.
Step 2: I print out the mold after I measure my foot and leg to the right measurements.
Step 3: Due to the state it will be with the layer lines, I will have to sand that down to a smooth finish. That way the rubber being used won't show any layer lines.
Step 4: I will have to create a boot pattern on Blender. For these boots, there's nothing too out there with the design. It only has 2 color fabrics for me to sew together. Once the boot is ready, I can export it out and print it in the same fashion I made the suit.
Step 5: This is where things get a little difficult. According to multiple sites around the net when it comes to making the boots, the best way to make them is by using an industrial machine to combine the pieces together. However, I don't have the money or the space to buy one at this time. I was thinking of using my sewing machine, but due to what I will have to combine in the process, I will have to resort to using the cemented construction method. That means I will have to glue the boots together to finish it off. I came across some tips and tricks during my search that can help in the process.
If all goes according to plan, I can officially make any of the ranger suits I want at any time!
All that is left are the gloves. I will have to study the ones I have and create a template on my own to see if I can replicate it. As I stated before, Cacazan gloves are not cheap and there is a waiting period on the shipping. However, I can sew them together on my sewing machine since I have the right tools. The only thing now is to get the right thread and materials. I can get started on working on that over the winter season.
Anyway, that's all for now! Until the next update, see you around!
3DVagabond
Active Member
Okay! So it's been about 2 months since the last post and now is a better time than any to make an update. Here is my "State of the Suit" report.
First things first. I'm going to talk about the status of the Auto Blaster side arm.
When it comes to the creation aspect of the design, it's almost done. I need to print 2 more pieces before I can perform a proper test for functionality. The wiring will have to be installed after that to ensure that the parts have enough clearance to move without any jamming.
Once every thing has been cleared, all I have to do is paint it.
Second,I have to talk about the situation with the suit as a whole. Since the time I uploaded the picture, I realized that it was baggy in certain areas. Since that time, I made some alterations in the inseam and I learned a few new tips to improve it.
Next, I will also test the capability into how well my Singer Simple 3337 machine can sew leather. If my sewing machine can sew through the material with out any issues, I can at least continue to sew to make the gloves and maybe the boots. I have found plenty of tutorials on the process and I will start making them sometime next month.
Finally, the helmet. Although the helmet itself is done, I did take the artistic liberty to make it have some deeper groves. So I went back and did some changes to make it as close to the show as possible. There are a few more modifications needed to be done before I print it again. Also, from this day forward, the version of the helmet that has been displayed on this thread, up to this point, will be known as Red Racer Custom. The next version in the thread that I will post updates for will be Red Racer "Classic". This version will be another attempt into improving the paint job to give it the gloss I've been looking for. This version will also include chrome plating application with a kit I bought before the pandemic.
If all goes according to plan, I will achieve the goal I have been striving for from the start of the thread: to create a suit so good, it looks like I stole it from Toei themselves!
That's the end of the address. The road map is there and it's going to be a very interesting couple of months making this happen. I'm going to post a few more before the end of the year. In the event that I cannot, Happy Holidays to you all and have a Happy New Year in 2022.
First things first. I'm going to talk about the status of the Auto Blaster side arm.
When it comes to the creation aspect of the design, it's almost done. I need to print 2 more pieces before I can perform a proper test for functionality. The wiring will have to be installed after that to ensure that the parts have enough clearance to move without any jamming.
Once every thing has been cleared, all I have to do is paint it.
Second,I have to talk about the situation with the suit as a whole. Since the time I uploaded the picture, I realized that it was baggy in certain areas. Since that time, I made some alterations in the inseam and I learned a few new tips to improve it.
Next, I will also test the capability into how well my Singer Simple 3337 machine can sew leather. If my sewing machine can sew through the material with out any issues, I can at least continue to sew to make the gloves and maybe the boots. I have found plenty of tutorials on the process and I will start making them sometime next month.
Finally, the helmet. Although the helmet itself is done, I did take the artistic liberty to make it have some deeper groves. So I went back and did some changes to make it as close to the show as possible. There are a few more modifications needed to be done before I print it again. Also, from this day forward, the version of the helmet that has been displayed on this thread, up to this point, will be known as Red Racer Custom. The next version in the thread that I will post updates for will be Red Racer "Classic". This version will be another attempt into improving the paint job to give it the gloss I've been looking for. This version will also include chrome plating application with a kit I bought before the pandemic.
If all goes according to plan, I will achieve the goal I have been striving for from the start of the thread: to create a suit so good, it looks like I stole it from Toei themselves!
That's the end of the address. The road map is there and it's going to be a very interesting couple of months making this happen. I'm going to post a few more before the end of the year. In the event that I cannot, Happy Holidays to you all and have a Happy New Year in 2022.
3DVagabond
Active Member
Happy Holidays, everyone! Update time! I ran the numbers of all the items needed to make my boots and maybe the gloves.
Here are the items I need.
Smooth on 780 Dry
Cost: 245.56 US Dollars
A bit of explanation. This item will act as the outsole of the boot. You know the rubber underside of the shoes and boots that you actually walk on? In order to make it durable to walk on, it needs to be Shore A 80 Hardness.
This product will get me there with no issues.
With using the cemented construction method, this material will help me make the boots once I create them in Blender and make a mold out of it. From there, I create my on personal outsole as many times I need.
However, this comes in a orange color so I'll need some Smooth On UVO Color Black to really darken it up.
Cost: 13.64 Dollars
Now, for the shoemaking materials, I'll need the following items.
Polyester or Nylon thread for sewing up the leather together.
Serafil Thread 12.30 US Dollars
Insole board/Texon Board for insoles
37.44 US Dollars
Aquilim 315 13.95 US Dollars
This item is essential in gluing the upper part (Part of the boot that you slide your feet into) to the outsole. It's a water based adhesive so it won't make that much of a stink when it's time to glue them together.
Here are the tools I'm going to need.
Shoemaker's knife $13.50 US Dollars
This is for helping me carve out the nubs and folds during the process.
Shoemaker's Hammer 19.99 US Dollars
This will help me hammer down the fabric during the process.
Shoemaker's Pincers $14 - $21 US Dollars
This will help me fold the leather over the last to get it to bottom part of the last.
Glue Spreader $8.77
You may be wondering what is the word "last" that I keep mentioning. Well, a last is actually a physical object in the shape of a shoe to help form its shape during the boot making process.
So I will have to make the last on my own since I have the equipment to do it and it will save me some money and time!
I also need nails for hammer the insole to last and keep in place as the leather goes over it.
Cost $8.99
Finally, the thermoplastic material for the toe puff ( the part of the boots that creates the toe shape of the boot) and stiffener.
This website, Avetco Inc Leather Hides | Leathercraft and Eva Foam Cosplay, for more info on that material.
Now, we get to the most expensive part of the listing and leather and equipment.
Finding leather, white cow leather, will be costly. Based on how much material I'm going to need, it will be north of 100 dollars before shipping.
Finding the right machine to sew through it with out any issues is even a harder challenge! My Singer 3337 sewing machine will not be up to the task not by testing it, but by simply contacting the customer service. They suggested another series of machine, but I have no idea what it looks like nor how much it costs. If I get the right machine, I can also sew the gloves as well!
As of right now, I'm already looking at over 600 dollars worth of stuff and I have not included taxes yet. So that's my posting for now. I'll try and see if I can get it all delivered and post some updates later.
So long for now!
Here are the items I need.
Smooth on 780 Dry
Cost: 245.56 US Dollars
A bit of explanation. This item will act as the outsole of the boot. You know the rubber underside of the shoes and boots that you actually walk on? In order to make it durable to walk on, it needs to be Shore A 80 Hardness.
This product will get me there with no issues.
With using the cemented construction method, this material will help me make the boots once I create them in Blender and make a mold out of it. From there, I create my on personal outsole as many times I need.
However, this comes in a orange color so I'll need some Smooth On UVO Color Black to really darken it up.
Cost: 13.64 Dollars
Now, for the shoemaking materials, I'll need the following items.
Polyester or Nylon thread for sewing up the leather together.
Serafil Thread 12.30 US Dollars
Insole board/Texon Board for insoles
37.44 US Dollars
Aquilim 315 13.95 US Dollars
This item is essential in gluing the upper part (Part of the boot that you slide your feet into) to the outsole. It's a water based adhesive so it won't make that much of a stink when it's time to glue them together.
Here are the tools I'm going to need.
Shoemaker's knife $13.50 US Dollars
This is for helping me carve out the nubs and folds during the process.
Shoemaker's Hammer 19.99 US Dollars
This will help me hammer down the fabric during the process.
Shoemaker's Pincers $14 - $21 US Dollars
This will help me fold the leather over the last to get it to bottom part of the last.
Glue Spreader $8.77
You may be wondering what is the word "last" that I keep mentioning. Well, a last is actually a physical object in the shape of a shoe to help form its shape during the boot making process.
So I will have to make the last on my own since I have the equipment to do it and it will save me some money and time!
I also need nails for hammer the insole to last and keep in place as the leather goes over it.
Cost $8.99
Finally, the thermoplastic material for the toe puff ( the part of the boots that creates the toe shape of the boot) and stiffener.
This website, Avetco Inc Leather Hides | Leathercraft and Eva Foam Cosplay, for more info on that material.
Now, we get to the most expensive part of the listing and leather and equipment.
Finding leather, white cow leather, will be costly. Based on how much material I'm going to need, it will be north of 100 dollars before shipping.
Finding the right machine to sew through it with out any issues is even a harder challenge! My Singer 3337 sewing machine will not be up to the task not by testing it, but by simply contacting the customer service. They suggested another series of machine, but I have no idea what it looks like nor how much it costs. If I get the right machine, I can also sew the gloves as well!
As of right now, I'm already looking at over 600 dollars worth of stuff and I have not included taxes yet. So that's my posting for now. I'll try and see if I can get it all delivered and post some updates later.
So long for now!
3DVagabond
Active Member
Update time!
This will be the last post of the year and I have gathered all the information of what items will be needed to make the boots. Once again, here's a compact list of the items needed for this part of the project in US currency.
First the materials:
Smooth On 780 Dry for the outsole 245.56
Smooth On UVO pigment: 13.64
3 oz Leather: 100
Thermosplatic sheets for toe puffs and heel stiffeners: 30
Aquilim 315 Glue 13.95
Insole board/Texon Board for the insole 37.44
Serafil Thread 12.30
Now, for the tools and equipment.
Shoemaker's knife 29.99
Shoemaker's Hammer 29.99
Shoemaker's Pincers 14.99
Glue Spreader 7.99
Leather Scissors $12.99
Some of these prices might change based on if I can get the same tools at a slightly cheaper price tag.
I've also found a machine that can handle the leather material for the sewing process too!
Brother CS6000i 208.00
I talked to a rep from this company to see if this was possible for the thickness of the material. Plus I can also use it as a back up if the previous one breaks down. But I don't have to buy a bulky industrial sewing machine so that's a good sign for now.
There's also one final piece of equipment I will be adding on to the listing. A pressure chamber pot. This device will help get rid of any air bubbles that may exist in the rubber while mixing it.
Yescom 5 Gallon Stainless Steel Vacuum Chamber Tempered Glass Lid kit $129.90
When you add every thing together, once again before taxes, it's going to cost 898.64 Sure it doesn't seem much, but if you happen to screw up along the way with the process, it can derail everything!
All I need now is to get the funds for it and I should be ready to go! Time to start saving up!
That's all for now! Have a Happy New Year and I will talk with you all on the next posting.
This will be the last post of the year and I have gathered all the information of what items will be needed to make the boots. Once again, here's a compact list of the items needed for this part of the project in US currency.
First the materials:
Smooth On 780 Dry for the outsole 245.56
Smooth On UVO pigment: 13.64
3 oz Leather: 100
Thermosplatic sheets for toe puffs and heel stiffeners: 30
Aquilim 315 Glue 13.95
Insole board/Texon Board for the insole 37.44
Serafil Thread 12.30
Now, for the tools and equipment.
Shoemaker's knife 29.99
Shoemaker's Hammer 29.99
Shoemaker's Pincers 14.99
Glue Spreader 7.99
Leather Scissors $12.99
Some of these prices might change based on if I can get the same tools at a slightly cheaper price tag.
I've also found a machine that can handle the leather material for the sewing process too!
Brother CS6000i 208.00
I talked to a rep from this company to see if this was possible for the thickness of the material. Plus I can also use it as a back up if the previous one breaks down. But I don't have to buy a bulky industrial sewing machine so that's a good sign for now.
There's also one final piece of equipment I will be adding on to the listing. A pressure chamber pot. This device will help get rid of any air bubbles that may exist in the rubber while mixing it.
Yescom 5 Gallon Stainless Steel Vacuum Chamber Tempered Glass Lid kit $129.90
When you add every thing together, once again before taxes, it's going to cost 898.64 Sure it doesn't seem much, but if you happen to screw up along the way with the process, it can derail everything!
All I need now is to get the funds for it and I should be ready to go! Time to start saving up!
That's all for now! Have a Happy New Year and I will talk with you all on the next posting.
3DVagabond
Active Member
HAPPY NEW YEAR, Every body!!! The journey of the self made suit rages on and there are a couple of reasons why I have decided to post now after a somewhat long absence.
For starters, I actually went back to finish my associate degree in my home town and I'm at the final stretch of it! All of my work has been done despite being the last entry and now, I can focus on getting this suit done!
Speaking of the suit, there is going to be a slight delay on when the suit will be complete. The status of it is that I will still make the boots and gloves, but the cost of gathering it all has gone up due to the method I'm using to make it.
On my last post, I stated that pressure pot will be needed in the process of getting the air bubbles out of the rubber. However, when it comes to resin, due to the amount of time it's going to take for it to kick, a pressure pot will be needed in the resin process. Now, the resin inside the pot will actually "squeeze the bubbles" that may appear down to the microscopic level. How small will it shrink it? Small enough for it not to be seen with out a microscope from what I saw so far. So now the actual cost to get every thing there will be 1069.59 before taxes.
You are probably thinking to yourself, "Why are you talking about resin? Is it related to the boot's creation?"
No, but there's a reason why for that. After very careful consideration, I have decided to make another version of the helmet again. But this time, I'm going to to add something special to it.
I'm going to dive into chrome plating. Sort of. As of right now, I have 3 ways to achieve that effect. There's Maltow Chrome Markers that I can apply it with an airbrush. It takes a bit longer to dry but it's suppose to have a good reflective finish.
The second method is using Alclad Chrome paint. I could use that to paint the trim of the helmet, but I will have to apply the accompanying clear coat to protect it. Finally, there's the Caswell Copy chrome which is the most expensive in my possession. There's another method to achieving the chrome trim, but I will discuss that when I come across it at a later time. Any way, I will post my results with the chroming process later.
The second reason I want to redo that helmet is because I think I can do a proper paint job this time. The last one ended up with a matte finish and I want to add a proper visor to it as well.
Because of this, the helmet could be properly done by Memorial Day Weekend for the upcoming convention. Then there's RangerStop and pop coming 2 weeks after the fact.
The timing could NOT be better.
Because of this, the actual time frame of the entire suit will not be done until July! But I will post as many progress pictures as I can.
Don't count me out yet!
Anyway, that's all for now! Until Next time!
For starters, I actually went back to finish my associate degree in my home town and I'm at the final stretch of it! All of my work has been done despite being the last entry and now, I can focus on getting this suit done!
Speaking of the suit, there is going to be a slight delay on when the suit will be complete. The status of it is that I will still make the boots and gloves, but the cost of gathering it all has gone up due to the method I'm using to make it.
On my last post, I stated that pressure pot will be needed in the process of getting the air bubbles out of the rubber. However, when it comes to resin, due to the amount of time it's going to take for it to kick, a pressure pot will be needed in the resin process. Now, the resin inside the pot will actually "squeeze the bubbles" that may appear down to the microscopic level. How small will it shrink it? Small enough for it not to be seen with out a microscope from what I saw so far. So now the actual cost to get every thing there will be 1069.59 before taxes.
You are probably thinking to yourself, "Why are you talking about resin? Is it related to the boot's creation?"
No, but there's a reason why for that. After very careful consideration, I have decided to make another version of the helmet again. But this time, I'm going to to add something special to it.
I'm going to dive into chrome plating. Sort of. As of right now, I have 3 ways to achieve that effect. There's Maltow Chrome Markers that I can apply it with an airbrush. It takes a bit longer to dry but it's suppose to have a good reflective finish.
The second method is using Alclad Chrome paint. I could use that to paint the trim of the helmet, but I will have to apply the accompanying clear coat to protect it. Finally, there's the Caswell Copy chrome which is the most expensive in my possession. There's another method to achieving the chrome trim, but I will discuss that when I come across it at a later time. Any way, I will post my results with the chroming process later.
The second reason I want to redo that helmet is because I think I can do a proper paint job this time. The last one ended up with a matte finish and I want to add a proper visor to it as well.
Because of this, the helmet could be properly done by Memorial Day Weekend for the upcoming convention. Then there's RangerStop and pop coming 2 weeks after the fact.
The timing could NOT be better.
Because of this, the actual time frame of the entire suit will not be done until July! But I will post as many progress pictures as I can.
Don't count me out yet!
Anyway, that's all for now! Until Next time!
