So, as discussed, I finally went ahead and cut the cheek vents out and rotated them to face forward a bit more. Now I have to finish fairing them back in, but at this point they look like so:
I've also started adding to the rear end of the boxes where the lights go:
Here's another view:
Apologies for the crappy cellphone pics.
Either way, I really think it's finally coming together. Comments and criticisms welcome.
Looking at the lines you pointed out, I'm thinking it was mostly a lighting problem in the picture. Since then I've cleaned out the recessed rectangle and neatened things up a bit. With a decent coat of paint, I'm confident it'll look fine.
This project saw a bit of progress yesterday. I've re-shaped and smoothed out the cheek boxes and cleaned up the vents on the chin:
I still have a tiny bit of straightening out to do, but I think it looks pretty good.
I'm thinking I'll have to form a custom visor for this one. A motorcycle faceshield might work, but the color will still be wrong. Instead, I'll make a mirrored amber acrylic visor to match my MkVI helmets.
I'm also not sure it's worth the trouble to make a mold. I like the way it's come out, but I'd have to sell at least four of them in order to be able to afford the costs involved. Thoughts?
Today I decided to see how the helmet would look with a gold-tinted motorcycle faceshield installed:
I don't like it, so I sculpted this one instead:
The grey visor is just a placeholder, so I didn't really go nuts trying to smooth it out or match up the symmetry. I'll end up making a vacformed version later on. Meanwhile, this thing is about ready for molding:
Looks most excellent. I think your visor solution is the right idea. I would love to see a pic of this side by side with your mkvi bucket for a size comparison. And I'm glad to hear you decided to cover it in the pink and purple goop!
Gotta love ice cube keys. Did that on my first helmet mold. I find they can be a bit large and sometimes difficult to seat properly, but it looks like your tray is shallower than the one I used, so you will probably find it easier.
Brandon called it. Once the goo in the ice cube tray had cured, I had a small, smooth blocks of silicone that I could bond ot the print coat. As I was applying subsequent layers of thixotropic silicone (the brushable kind) I could use these blocks as rough guides to tell me how thick my buildup was getting. Finally, when I make the mothermolds, the blocks of silicone will make ideal registration points for the rigid mothermold to hold onto while I rotocast the copies.
Here's a picture of the molds after three (or maybe four?) applications of silicone:
For the helmet on the left, the mothermold will split into front and back halves. For the helmet on the right, the mothermold will split into left and right. Most of the blocks of silicone are lined up to fit along the separation point between the two halves. The rest have to be situated so they won't lock the mothermold onto the rubber jacket when there's a rigid casting inside of it.