Warhammer 40K Space Marine

[chwbcc1]

Well done. The side bits, under the arms, I know they aren't going to be as wide, but will you be able to relax your arms? The bottom of the arm ring is high, like mine is. In the prep stage I came across this problem & am just waiting for all the glassing before I try & work it out.

It looks low enough down the stomach & wide enough across the shoulders, so good work on the sizing. Have you got a shoulder pad you can use as a reference for overall scale/appearance?

I hate to say it but now the helmet looks like it might be too big (or long)for the suit. Maybe once the whole chest gets firmed up it will look more proportional, then you can disregard this comment, lol.

LOL I only disregard statements of people who haven't started working on one of these totally awesome suits!



My shoulder is falling apart but check out the photos below...



at first I was afraid to actually lower my arms for fear of the pep falling apart! :lol



I think I may have to do some trimming as well and I think I am going to do it before I glass but I really don't know, I have to really think about what I need to trim and what I would like to keep. I didn't like the way it was siting on the shoulders so I added in some pads my wife wife uses for Mrs. Potts and it pushed everything just about perfect. I also added in a pad in the head as well to lift the helm off the shoulders and that really brings the suit to life. It makes the helm look like a bobble head but I can reduce the shoulder padding and the head padding to make it sit properly. I think the shoulder is a little large in depth but not height. I think I am going to modify the piece by removing the edging and glass that then add in a new border that is not as pronounced.



You will also see the pep warping because of the position I have wot stand in to hold the shoulder but with the right angle in the neck area this looks pretty good in proportion. The first two pics are with out the helmet padding and the last three have the padding.



Here's some more pics:

 

[amancue]

seeing you and judges work keeps pushing me on to work on mine... hopefully I have something to show soon,..couple questions/things I've been wondering what are you going to use for boots? and the other is more of a n00b question, you mentioned using the glazing putty instead of normal bondo IE the red stuff in the smaller tubes then the tubs of bondo body filler.. so your saying just coat the entire head in a layer of it and sand away? anyways I love how its coming out so far I should run off to work on mine a bit more,.. need new blades

 

[Judge]

Excellent. Seeing it with the shoulder brings it more into proportion. Doesn't look at all bad now.

If it's worth considering, you could lower the Shoulder & put one of those sword guards (or whatever they are called)on top of it instead, that way you'll get the height & the depth.

Highlighted is what I'm trying to explain.

 

[chwbcc1]

Ooo I like that idea, judge. The piece loos really good but I think the trim is a bit large. This is something I can add after glassing the interior.



The boots are going to be tricky and they are my only real concern every thing else is just going to take time to get it perfect... I'll post up some ideas about boot later tonight and see what you all think.



And for the glaze I've used several types of bondo, one have glass fibers in it and that has been the most stable the fibers in the bondo keeps the bondo from cracking and breaking off. granted it is a little harder to sand.



The red stuff in the smaller tube is really the same as the larger container but it has the hardener in it already and its in an easier to use tube. You can squeeze it into the cracks and low spots and smooth is with a gloved finger. I think it's just called glaze or spot putty but it is really the same thing. Using this tube is more expensive but if your pep is really good you save money by only having to bondo small areas. Remember bondo is only for filling holes and smooth the helm not for making the helm stronger. If you want a stronger helm or something that is more sturdy add in another layer of fiber glass.



But make sure that you have added in the allowances in to make the piece a little bit larger because anything you put on the inside will reduce the fitting size of the helm.



If you are going to make a mold of the piece this really doesn't matter. The outside is all that really counts.

 

[amancue]

I wasnt so much thinking of it (bondo) on the outside to make it tougher,.. more about making it smoother. but I get what your saying

 

[amancue]

I do have a question for you about the arms your using and scaling, in pep its all one pep the upper and lower arm how are you scaling them?

 

[Judge]

It's really only the forearm that will be seen & in the file it is the tallest piece. Measure from the bend in your wrist to the elbow point. You won't have to allow for padding, the piece is very round. You'll only have to cut out the wrist hole a bit more. The top arm file is just a round tube. Eventually you'll need to trim it I think.

Also if you look through Samuray's post there should be a file of just the forearm with the elbow attached, if you'd prefer to do it in 1-piece, without the upperarm.

 

[chwbcc1]

Ok it's raining today and I can't finish my Chest right now. it should clear up by tomorrow but it's going to be cold... However I have been plugging away at Maya again and here is a generic Space Marine Chest. It's patterned after a Grey Knight photo I have from GW. I took out all the Paraphernalia and left it bare so you can add what you like to make it your own.



I also haven't scaled it to any particular person or size so I don't know if it will work but that is the next lesson in my Maya book. "Working with Scale"



I have also add in some supports that I hope will help in the Glassing process. The ones in the neck can be cut out and the bottom and arm holes can be trimmed after glassing. But again I don't know if it will work or not.



Let me know what you think:



Basic Space Marine:

Basic Marine .PDO File:

Basic Space Marine Chest

 

[Drgnfyre4]

Great progress on this so far. I am sure the most exciting part is going to be all of the custom crests and decorations you can make to trick the finished look of the armor out. I miss my old W40K figure collection! Keep up the great work!!!

 

[chwbcc1]

Grumble grumble. I've officially given up on this chest piece... Time to reprint and Pep again! I had to re build my Helm so why shouldn't I have to rebuild every other piece twice as well?



I do have a deadline now... I am planning to take this to Megacon in March. I've never been to Megacon and I've never worn a costume to a convention before... so if I can get past doing a lot of seconds on the firsts I could get some firsts that may lead to seconds?! (If that's not Monty Python enough for you I don't know what is)



Drgnfyre4 print some pieces and join the parade! This is one of the more popular non-Halo builds on the 405th... I would think it's only second to the awesome Iron Man stuff I have been seeing...

 

[Nintendude]

Chwbcc if you need it I can try to fix some kind of supports inside the Armor similar to the way that the Flying Squirrel Helmet has supports inside it if that will help you out. I think I may have a Storm Bolter file lurking around my PC somewhere I will have to look. Also not to jack your thread but the first person that finishes a complete Space Marine I'll make the Purity Seals and if time allows for me to make a cast a Bolter as well for the person who finishes first.

 

[chwbcc1]

Oh Hell NOOOOO! Kidnapping my thread and offering presents? It's ON now!!!

 

[Nintendude]

Oh Hell NOOOOO! Kidnapping my thread and offering presents? It's ON now!!!

LOL Sorry Chwbcc was not meant to hijack your thread in one of your other posts you mentioned you would want a Storm Bolter so that why I said I'll look around for the one I have for you.

 

[chwbcc1]

LOL, the pressure is on... Judge is a lot further than I am now there are two more competitors doing great work too.

 

[Deathcoreknight]

LOL, the pressure is on... Judge is a lot further than I am now there are two more competitors doing great work too.

Like me lol may the best Sm win ...

 

[LeytonInTheNet]

Wow! Great work! I've really gotta make a set of this



Just a quick question:

Why do you put masking tape along some of the lines? Does it make it smoother/easier to resin, etc.?

If so, how do you determine which lines to put it on?



Thanks,

Leyton

 

[amancue]

yes and The Machine God Shall Smile Upon the Tech Marine

good work guys

 

[chwbcc1]

Wow! Great work! I've really gotta make a set of this



Just a quick question:

Why do you put masking tape along some of the lines? Does it make it smoother/easier to resin, etc.?

If so, how do you determine which lines to put it on?



Thanks,

Leyton

I actually use the masking tape to hold it all together. It's faster than waiting for glue to dry. I can easily adjust pieces as I need, even after a few days. However, I only used this method with this armor because there are not many hard line and small places that have to be perfect.



Once I have finished taping the piece together, I resin and glass the inside, allow to harden, remove the tape, and soak the outside with resin to lock it all together.



When it's finished drying I go back and fill in any areas that I need to fortify and then start the bondo process.



Superglue was messy

Hot glue burned too much

Glue Sticks too too long to set.



There are some draw backs I am learning about with the chest piece. The seems are a bit soft and bend pretty easy because I only tape one side of the piece. And I can't tape both sides because Fiberglass and Bondo don't stick to the tape.



Try it see what results you get and post up some pics of your results.

 

[steef87]

looks good so far

hope to see more

 

[LeytonInTheNet]

I actually use the masking tape to hold it all together. It's faster than waiting for glue to dry.



Superglue was messy

Hot glue burned too much

Glue Sticks too too long to set.

OK



Have you tried using a pot of PVA and a paintbrush? It takes like 5-10 seconds to set, and it doesn't affect resin

Plus, if you use a small paintbrush, you can glue all the REALLY intricate pieces very easily