Yay another ODST build! Well at least it will be Halo 4's Version
- Thread starter cha0skn1ght
- Start date
- Status
RYNO 666
Well-Known Member
No just keep going it's fine. Make sure you're constantly brushing it as it starts to get gum like. This way you can keep those drips from making thin spots. Also pay close attention to all the undercuts all over your helmet surface that way you can keep the gravity from thinning out those crevices.
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
So I ended up taking off that first layer and re-doing it anyways early this morning before work. Thanks for all the tips man. I'm hoping this time it'll be good and I'm going to add 2-3 more coats and the keys then the mother mold this week and hopefully pulling by Friday or Saturday.
Thanks for keeping up with it!
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
picture update
Did some work on the gun. Drew out lines as to wear certain sections will be
Got my second layer of Rebound 25 with ThiVex thickening agent. Also made some small keys on the mold. I'll make a giant ridge key next layer.
Did some work on the gun. Drew out lines as to wear certain sections will be
Got my second layer of Rebound 25 with ThiVex thickening agent. Also made some small keys on the mold. I'll make a giant ridge key next layer.
Attachments
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
Another layer done and added ridge key
A question to those who have done this before. Should the keys be bigger or are they really just there to hold the mother mold in place and assure proper alignment?
A question to those who have done this before. Should the keys be bigger or are they really just there to hold the mother mold in place and assure proper alignment?
Attachments
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
RYNO 666
Well-Known Member
They are mainly to keep the cast from warping during the slush. When you make the shell you should definitely make it thick. I use surgical grade bandages and paste wax for where the two halves meet. It's very important that you don't over wet the bandages and make sure your seems are nice and smooth. If you pay good attention to the shell it will help prevent your cast from distortion. The registration keys can help give the mold a nice place to grab on to.
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
Attachments
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
I'm most likely going to use fiberglass cloth and resin for my mother mold. This guy's videos have been phenomenal
Last edited by a moderator:
RYNO 666
Well-Known Member
Man that Skid Row playing in the background is Throwback.
Here's what I did.
Helmet Mold Tutorial: Gel-25 1 Piece Mold Halo He…: http://youtu.be/qEPQBtYJKsQ
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
I really like that they didn't need to cut the mold to peel it off the helmet. I haven't played around that much with Rebound 25 but everyone I've watched has cut the mold in half, I really don't want to risk peeling it and it rips. Granted the ODST helmet is pretty smooth and circular with no real pieces jutting out, I guess it's still better to be safe than sorry.
RYNO 666
Well-Known Member
Yeah you're right. I had quite a lot of trouble demolding the Mark but my JFO was easy. My mark has a lot of details so it register s better but it is hard to get it out. The JFO is opposite. Gel 25 is extremely elastic and won't rip which is why all I needed was a simple one peice glove mold. And like I said it is fast.
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
Rebound 25 is pretty quick too. It cures in maybe 1.5 hours - 2 hours and is really sturdy. To be honest, after I took my first layer off (the one where I had missed an area) it didn't feel like it needed any more layers but I'm going to do what's safe until I'm more comfortable with the stuff.
I'm hoping for an easy pull with the ODST.... because next I'm going to be casting the Fotus.
RYNO 666
Well-Known Member
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
Yes I know [emoji13]
I'm planning on cutting the horn off and making it reattachable and molding them separately. This will make it easier to ship when I sell them too
Halo Master
Member
Looking awesome!
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
Ugh so this morning it still hadn't cured. So now I'm looking at taking it all off and redoing this half, or just put more cloth + resin + even more hardener to make it cure.
RYNO 666
Well-Known Member
Bummer, was the product new? I had some go bad one time.
Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk
cha0skn1ght
Active Member
It wasn't brand new but it also wasn't really old and has been kept in room temp storage and sealed so I'm sure that wasn't the case. It is curing, just slowly. When I go to make the next layer, I'll put in extra hardener and it should cure the under layer.
- Status
