Welcome to WandererTJ's comprehensive guide on everything related to foam constructed builds!
Be sure to check elsewhere for guides on Resin+Fiberglass builds, Thermoplastic (Worbla & Terraflex), 3D Printing, Metal, and Leather builds!
Be sure to check elsewhere for guides on Resin+Fiberglass builds, Thermoplastic (Worbla & Terraflex), 3D Printing, Metal, and Leather builds!
Be sure to also check out my other guides:
• Resource Thread - Gloves, Boots, Compression Shirts & Pants, and More
• Strapping, Magnets, Buckles, and other Fasteners [Coming Soon]
• Lighting and Electronics [Coming Soon]
• New Ultimate Scaling Tutorial [Coming Soon]
• Strapping, Magnets, Buckles, and other Fasteners [Coming Soon]
• Lighting and Electronics [Coming Soon]
• New Ultimate Scaling Tutorial [Coming Soon]
Table of Contents
Introduction
Foam
Cutting the Foam
Refining the Shape of the Foam
Assembling the Foam
Sealing
Surfacing
Painting
Tutorials and Examples
Foam
• Puzzle Mat
• Craft Foam
• Blue Camp Pad
• Craft Foam
• Blue Camp Pad
• Making Templates
• Cutting Utensils/Tools
• Blade Sharpness
• General Tools
• Safety
• Cutting Utensils/Tools
• Non-Electric
• Heated
• Electric/Powered
• Heated
• Electric/Powered
• General Tools
• Safety
• Cleaning up Jagged Edges
• Heat Gun
• Adding in Details
• Heat Gun
• Adding in Details
• Adhesives
• Sealing for Paint
• Sealing for Surfacing
• Filling Material for Gaps along Edges
• Sanding
• Sealing for Surfacing
• Filling Material for Gaps along Edges
• Sanding
Painting
Tutorials and Examples
Introduction
This is a big guide, and as such it will require maintenance. This is not something one person can do alone, so I ask you, the 405th Community, to step in when you can to provide any new information that would help this guide to further help others within our community. This Guide needs YOUR Input!It is my hope that we can assemble a guide with a list of details of the products/materials, variations of them, where to buy, what the quality of the items are, and maybe even ratings from us here at the 405th.
You are all also welcome to post here about sales that might be going on for some of the various materials!
DISCLAIMER: Unless otherwise noted, purchasing links and prices shown are for USA Retailers and $USD.
I happily welcome others to create duplicates of this guide for their region, but for the most part, this should help everyone to at least know the names of all the materials they may come across!
Foam
EVA = Ethylene-vinyl acetate
I happily welcome others to create duplicates of this guide for their region, but for the most part, this should help everyone to at least know the names of all the materials they may come across!
Foam
EVA = Ethylene-vinyl acetate
Puzzle Mat {EVA}
Usage: Puzzle Mat EVA foam, which commonly comes as flat puzzle shaped pieces for gym floors and play mats for children, is the standard foam used for most foam builds. It forms the base of the armor. While both Puzzle Mat foam and Craft foam are both EVA foam, most people refer to Puzzle Mat foam as "EVA" and Craft foam as "Foamies".
Details:
• Standard Thickness: 9-13mm (3/8-1/2in)
Most typically you will see Puzzle Mat Foam in one of the 4 variations:
1/2'' with small oval pattern
3/4'' with small oval pattern
1/2'' with large diamond pattern
3/4'' with large diamond pattern
3/4'' with small oval pattern
1/2'' with large diamond pattern
3/4'' with large diamond pattern
Buying Options:
• We Sell Mats - 3/8" Thick
• 48 sq.Ft option - $48.50 with Shipping (Sale Price) - Recommended for single suit builds.
• 96 sq.Ft option - $90 with Shipping (Sale Price) - Recommended for those who like to experiment.
• 240 sq.Ft option - $200 with Shipping (Sale Price)
Manufacturer: We Sell Mats
• 96 sq.Ft option - $90 with Shipping (Sale Price) - Recommended for those who like to experiment.
• 240 sq.Ft option - $200 with Shipping (Sale Price)
Manufacturer: We Sell Mats
• Lowes:
• 1/2" Thick - 24.6" x 24.6" Shop Mat (Set of 4) - http://www.lowes.com/pd_295099-4718...l=1¤tURL=?Ntt=eva+floor+mats&facetInfo= - $19.98
Manufacturer: Varies from regions and supplier
Manufacturer: Varies from regions and supplier
• Harbor Freight:
• 1/2" Thick* - 25"x25" Anti-Fatigue Foam Mat (Set 4 Pc) - http://www.harborfreight.com/anti-fatigue-foam-mat-set-4-pc-61607.html - $9.99
Normally Priced on Sale at $9.99 (marked down from $15), but sometimes goes on sale for $7.00.
*NOTE*: Thickness might vary depending on region and supplier; some have seen 1/2" while others have seen 3/8"
Normally Priced on Sale at $9.99 (marked down from $15), but sometimes goes on sale for $7.00.
*NOTE*: Thickness might vary depending on region and supplier; some have seen 1/2" while others have seen 3/8"
Manufacturer: Varies from regions and supplier
• Walmart - Thickness Unknown
[Product name, Link & Price Needed]
• Academy - Thickness Unknown
[Product name, Link & Price Needed]
Craft Foam ("Foamies") {EVA}
Usage: Foamies are most typically used on top of EVA in order to add an increased level of detail on parts that call for them.
Most "Floating Faces" that you see in Pepakura Models imply that you use this kind of foam in those locations.
• Standard Thickness: 2mm, 3mm, or 5mm
• Other Thickness Uses:
Buying Options:• Hobby Lobby:
• Silly Winks Foam: [Link & Price Needed]
• Michael's:
Blue Camp-Pad Foam
This foam, which can be found in rolls at Walmart, is great for making larp and boffer weapons (typically PVC padded with 3 layers of the foam).
This type of foam is not very dense, and is quite spongy. Trying to make clean cuts on this kind of foam is quite difficult, and as such, this foam is not recommended for making armor out of. This foam can however be used as an option for padding (and possibly has other uses as well)
• Standard Thickness: 5mm (if I remember correctly)
Other Options
Cutting Board Material? - Someone has mentioned using something like this before
Cardstock Paper
• Used for Pepakura Foam Templates
• 110-lb weight thickness
• Better for reusing over and over
• Not as easy to tear
Printer Paper
• Cheaper option to Cardstock
• Can be used for templates since the paper won't be integrated into the build (like the fiberglass/rondo method requires)
• Easier to cut than Cardstock, but can move and flex more than Cardstock when pressed down to be used as a template
Cardboard
• Can use cardboard that comes from cereal boxes and other similar boxes
• Great for those who scratch build and come up with their own templates on the fly
• Free, because you are using something you would otherwise throw away.
Cutting Utensils/Tools
Blades & Blade Handles - Non Electronic
• Scalpel (Recommended)
Blades & Blade Handles - Heated
• Hot Knife: A "Hot Knife" is an electronically heated blade which allows for cutting through foam quickly and easily.
Electronic/Powered Cutting Equipment
• Scroll Saw - ≈$50 (minimally)
Keeping your Blades Sharp: Blade Sharpeners & Replacement Blades
• Blade Sharpeners: [Product information to be added]
• Replacement Blades: Remember to look for packs of 100, they will typically be much cheaper per blade than packs with fewer blades.
You can either go with purchasing lots of blades you can change in and out, or you can use a blade sharpener to increase the life of each blade. You also have the option to do both.
NOTE 2: Make sure you get the right sharpener for the job. Double-sided "\|/"-shaped blades require a sharpener different from the single-sided "|/"-shaped blades.
General Tools to Assist in Making Cuts & Adding Details as well as Technical Drawing Tools
[Product information to be added]
• Self-Healing Cutting Board
• Ruler (Steel) - 12-inch
• Straightedge / Architect's Scale (Aluminum)
• Right-Angle Square (Steel) or a T-Square - You typically want this to be longer than the Ruler
• Protractor / Protractor & Sliding T-Bevel / Swing Arm Protractor / Adjustable Compass Protractor / Adjustable Drafting Triangle
• Wood, metal, or plastic Triangles with 30 and 60 degree angles or with two 45 degree angles
NOTE 1: When you are only using templates, you really only need the Cutting Board, and either a Steel Ruler or Square.
Having a ruler is critically important, because it can help you make sure your straight cuts stay straight. Place the ruler on the line you are cutting, make an incision, and then cut along the ruler while pressing down on the ruler to make sure that it doesn't slide from the position you have it in.
If you are dong a scratch build, you may need some additional technical drawing tools to assist you in making the scratch parts for your build.
NOTE 2: If you are using a measuring instrument for measuring, not just making sure the lines you cut stay straight, its best to go for quality over just buying whatever is the cheapest option available to you. Precision is something we should all consider to be dire and important. Additionally, do your best to not bend your steel rulers and try not to store them in a location where they could get bent.
Safety
#1 Rule for Cutting: Never cut towards yourself. If you are exerting a lot of force (which possibly means you might be doing something wrong to begin with), and if you are cutting towards yourself while exerting a lot of force and the blade slips out from the cut or ends up finishing the cut faster than you thought it would, you can easily hurt yourself.
• Remember to keep your blades sharp so you don't have to use as much force when you make your cuts. Making sure your blades are sharp will also help ensure that your cuts stay clean as well.
General Safety Rules:
• For Hand Tools:
To be added
- Note: Rotary Tool can be used
Heat Gun
Usage: Used for adding curvature to the foam, allowing you to make round or formed shapes
Buying Options:
• Michael's:
[Link Needed] - $0.99 per sheet
Quality: Good, does not have the tendency to rip.
405th Rating: 9.5/10 (by 1 Users)
Quality: Good, does not have the tendency to rip.
405th Rating: 9.5/10 (by 1 Users)
Blue Camp-Pad Foam
This foam, which can be found in rolls at Walmart, is great for making larp and boffer weapons (typically PVC padded with 3 layers of the foam).
This type of foam is not very dense, and is quite spongy. Trying to make clean cuts on this kind of foam is quite difficult, and as such, this foam is not recommended for making armor out of. This foam can however be used as an option for padding (and possibly has other uses as well)
• Standard Thickness: 5mm (if I remember correctly)
Other Options
Cutting Board Material? - Someone has mentioned using something like this before
Cutting the Foam
Paper TemplatesCardstock Paper
• Used for Pepakura Foam Templates
• 110-lb weight thickness
• Better for reusing over and over
• Not as easy to tear
Printer Paper
• Cheaper option to Cardstock
• Can be used for templates since the paper won't be integrated into the build (like the fiberglass/rondo method requires)
• Easier to cut than Cardstock, but can move and flex more than Cardstock when pressed down to be used as a template
Cardboard
• Can use cardboard that comes from cereal boxes and other similar boxes
• Great for those who scratch build and come up with their own templates on the fly
• Free, because you are using something you would otherwise throw away.
Cutting Utensils/Tools
Blades & Blade Handles - Non Electronic
• Scalpel (Recommended)
• Precision Surgical Scalpels, or flat/square-handled knives are recommended over the X-Acto's round handle, because it allows the user to have more refined control.
• Some suggest that the tips of #11 Scalpel Blades are less likely to break off than #11 X-Acto Blades.
• Scalpel Blades also typically come in packs of 100 which are much cheaper than the packs of 100 X-Acto blades.
#3 Scalpel Handel (For use with #10 - #15 Scalpel Blades) - http://www.amazon.com/SCALPEL-HANDL...=1408933279&sr=8-1&keywords=#3+scalpel+handle -- ≈$5.00
#11 Scalpel Blades (Recommended Blade Shape) - http://www.amazon.com/100-Scalpel-B...8-4&keywords=scalpel+11+blades#cm_cr_dpwidget -- 100 Blade Pack ≈$7.00
• X-Acto Knife: Can be found at Walmart and almost any Craft/Hobby store for around $4.00.• Some suggest that the tips of #11 Scalpel Blades are less likely to break off than #11 X-Acto Blades.
• Scalpel Blades also typically come in packs of 100 which are much cheaper than the packs of 100 X-Acto blades.
#3 Scalpel Handel (For use with #10 - #15 Scalpel Blades) - http://www.amazon.com/SCALPEL-HANDL...=1408933279&sr=8-1&keywords=#3+scalpel+handle -- ≈$5.00
#11 Scalpel Blades (Recommended Blade Shape) - http://www.amazon.com/100-Scalpel-B...8-4&keywords=scalpel+11+blades#cm_cr_dpwidget -- 100 Blade Pack ≈$7.00
Handle & 1 Blade - http://www.quill.com/x-acto-graphic-knife/cbs/124409.html?cm_mmc=SEM_PLA_OS_124409 -- ≈$4.00
Refill Blade Pack of 100 #11 Blades - http://www.quill.com/hunt-x-acto-refill-blades/cbs/149418.html?cm_mmc=SEM_PLA_OS_149418 -- ≈$30.00
• Box Cutter / Utility Knife: Refill Blade Pack of 100 #11 Blades - http://www.quill.com/hunt-x-acto-refill-blades/cbs/149418.html?cm_mmc=SEM_PLA_OS_149418 -- ≈$30.00
These come in 2 varieties, the first has blades that you can break-away as you use them, and the other uses a special fixed razor blade that can be flipped around when one side dulls and can be taken out and replaced or sharpened when both sides dull. While your choice of knife is up to your discretion, the ones with blades that are meant to break away are not recommended because their blades are not long enough to cut through our foam entirely, and their design means that they won't likely be as sharp as their fixed-blade cousin.
Blades & Blade Handles - Heated
• Hot Knife: A "Hot Knife" is an electronically heated blade which allows for cutting through foam quickly and easily.
Most hot knives are either attachments for Soldering Irons or Wood Burners, though some do exist with their only purpose being a hot knife.
Wood Burners with Hot Knife Attachments:
• DIY - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8528336&postcount=278
NOTE 1: Hot Knifes are recommended for making the angled Bevel/Chamfer Cuts on the back side of the foam to allow 2 pieces of foam to meet up in a corner, while you stick to using only Scalpels/X-Actos for making the cuts when you cut the foam templates out. As such, you can optionally consider a Hot Knife to be more of an assembly tool than a cutting tool. Forum user Spacemeat has been known to press the heated stem of his iron into the foam in order to burn a recessed groove into the foam, allowing it to flex and bend more at junctions of foam.
NOTE 2: Most people who dislike Hot Knives have only used ones that attach to long-stemmed Soldering Irons, which in all fairness causes cuts to be less precise because the handle is very far from the material you are cutting. There are however a few soldering irons with short stems, or alternatively, wood burners which are more renowned for having shorter stems than soldering irons. Another issue that Soldering Pencils/Irons have is that often their blades can be too short to cut all the way through the foam.
Wood Burners with Hot Knife Attachments:
• Walnut Hollow® Creative Versa-Tool (Recommended) - http://www.michaels.com/walnut-hollow-creative-versa-tool/10327706.html#q=walnut+hollow&start=4 -- $29.99
Soldering Pencils and Soldering Irons:• Weller WP 80 Solder Pencil Set - Antistat 80W Soldering Set: http://www.antistat.co.uk/product.php/361/80w-soldering-set
• Pace TD-100 Soldering Iron / Thermodrive Iron Kit: $80-150
True Hot Knife (Expensive):• Pace TD-100 Soldering Iron / Thermodrive Iron Kit: $80-150
Iron Only:
Knife Blade: Pace - 1128-0037-P1 1128-0037-P1 Soldering Tip, 0.25" Knife Blade:
http://www.paceworldwide.com/products/handpieces/soldering-irons/td100-thermodrive-iron-intelliheat
http://www.hmcelectronics.com/produ...ogleshopping&gclid=CJ3hk5_IlcACFQmoaQoda7wAZQ
Iron with Tip & Tool Stand:http://www.hmcelectronics.com/produ...ogleshopping&gclid=CJ3hk5_IlcACFQmoaQoda7wAZQ
Knife Blade: Pace - 1128-0037-P1 1128-0037-P1 Soldering Tip, 0.25" Knife Blade:
• Handles:
Hot Wire Foam Cutting Table:HSGM Styro-Cut 120: http://www.hsgmusa.com/Products/hsgm-styro-cut-120-hot-knife.asp
HSG-0 Heat Cutter: http://www.hsgmusa.com/Products/hsg-0-heat-cutter.asp
• Cutting Feet:HSG-0 Heat Cutter: http://www.hsgmusa.com/Products/hsg-0-heat-cutter.asp
SFW Cutting Foot for Type M Handle (HSGM): http://www.hsgmusa.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=E6A81D32C9AA429285C804E891A9DE99
SF Cutting Foot for HSG-0: http://www.hsgmusa.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=CA43E88A3310406CB21DD0DB26E25217
• Blades (These are just a few options):SF Cutting Foot for HSG-0: http://www.hsgmusa.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=CA43E88A3310406CB21DD0DB26E25217
HSGM DSS 60 Hot Knife Blade: http://www.hsgmusa.com/Products/dss-60-hot-knife-blade.asp
HSGM Type VST Heat Cutter Blade: http://www.hsgmusa.com/Products/type-vst-heat-cutter-blade.asp
HSGM 55mm Heat Cutter Blade: http://www.hsgmusa.com/Products/55mm-heat-cutter-blade.asp
• There are hot knives other that this one, but hsgmusa's website has a large variety of selection which is nice, and they had the shortest blades I could find for a "True" Hot Knife. Most "True" Hot Knifes have a 4-inch or longer blade.HSGM Type VST Heat Cutter Blade: http://www.hsgmusa.com/Products/type-vst-heat-cutter-blade.asp
HSGM 55mm Heat Cutter Blade: http://www.hsgmusa.com/Products/55mm-heat-cutter-blade.asp
• DIY - http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8528336&postcount=278
NOTE 1: Hot Knifes are recommended for making the angled Bevel/Chamfer Cuts on the back side of the foam to allow 2 pieces of foam to meet up in a corner, while you stick to using only Scalpels/X-Actos for making the cuts when you cut the foam templates out. As such, you can optionally consider a Hot Knife to be more of an assembly tool than a cutting tool. Forum user Spacemeat has been known to press the heated stem of his iron into the foam in order to burn a recessed groove into the foam, allowing it to flex and bend more at junctions of foam.
NOTE 2: Most people who dislike Hot Knives have only used ones that attach to long-stemmed Soldering Irons, which in all fairness causes cuts to be less precise because the handle is very far from the material you are cutting. There are however a few soldering irons with short stems, or alternatively, wood burners which are more renowned for having shorter stems than soldering irons. Another issue that Soldering Pencils/Irons have is that often their blades can be too short to cut all the way through the foam.
Electronic/Powered Cutting Equipment
• Scroll Saw - ≈$50 (minimally)
Scroll Saws could be considered as mini band saws or mini inverted table Jigsaws.
• When shopping for a Scroll Saw, you want to make sure you find one that has a top that can be lifted up away from the blade. This allows you to do cuts internally without having to cut into your project to get to the interior. All you need to do to make cuts internally is drill a hole that the blade can fit into.
• You also want to make sure you find one with a pedal which will allow you to control the speed, which is extra important with foam.
• The last thing you might want to look for is one with a table that can be angled. Having a table that you can tilt is something that would be important if you want to make the cuts on the backside of the foam where you need 2 pieces of foam to meet up.
• Laser Cutter• When shopping for a Scroll Saw, you want to make sure you find one that has a top that can be lifted up away from the blade. This allows you to do cuts internally without having to cut into your project to get to the interior. All you need to do to make cuts internally is drill a hole that the blade can fit into.
• You also want to make sure you find one with a pedal which will allow you to control the speed, which is extra important with foam.
• The last thing you might want to look for is one with a table that can be angled. Having a table that you can tilt is something that would be important if you want to make the cuts on the backside of the foam where you need 2 pieces of foam to meet up.
There are both benefits and disadvantages to using a Laser Cutter. The primary benefit is time and effort, as the laser cutter machine will cut the foam for you.
The disadvantages however include accuracy and the chance that the foam might catch fire...........
There is also the disadvantage of cost for those who do not have access to a laser cutter readily available to them.
The disadvantages however include accuracy and the chance that the foam might catch fire...........
There is also the disadvantage of cost for those who do not have access to a laser cutter readily available to them.
Keeping your Blades Sharp: Blade Sharpeners & Replacement Blades
• Blade Sharpeners: [Product information to be added]
• Replacement Blades: Remember to look for packs of 100, they will typically be much cheaper per blade than packs with fewer blades.
Details on replacement blades for Scalpels and X-Acto Knives are listed above.
NOTE 1: When using Foam for your crafting needs, it is vitally important that you keep your blades sharp. Keeping your blades sharp results in cleaner cuts which means the quality of your build will be much higher and it will look much better.You can either go with purchasing lots of blades you can change in and out, or you can use a blade sharpener to increase the life of each blade. You also have the option to do both.
NOTE 2: Make sure you get the right sharpener for the job. Double-sided "\|/"-shaped blades require a sharpener different from the single-sided "|/"-shaped blades.
General Tools to Assist in Making Cuts & Adding Details as well as Technical Drawing Tools
[Product information to be added]
• Self-Healing Cutting Board
• Ruler (Steel) - 12-inch
• Straightedge / Architect's Scale (Aluminum)
• Right-Angle Square (Steel) or a T-Square - You typically want this to be longer than the Ruler
• Protractor / Protractor & Sliding T-Bevel / Swing Arm Protractor / Adjustable Compass Protractor / Adjustable Drafting Triangle
• Wood, metal, or plastic Triangles with 30 and 60 degree angles or with two 45 degree angles
NOTE 1: When you are only using templates, you really only need the Cutting Board, and either a Steel Ruler or Square.
Having a ruler is critically important, because it can help you make sure your straight cuts stay straight. Place the ruler on the line you are cutting, make an incision, and then cut along the ruler while pressing down on the ruler to make sure that it doesn't slide from the position you have it in.
If you are dong a scratch build, you may need some additional technical drawing tools to assist you in making the scratch parts for your build.
NOTE 2: If you are using a measuring instrument for measuring, not just making sure the lines you cut stay straight, its best to go for quality over just buying whatever is the cheapest option available to you. Precision is something we should all consider to be dire and important. Additionally, do your best to not bend your steel rulers and try not to store them in a location where they could get bent.
Safety
#1 Rule for Cutting: Never cut towards yourself. If you are exerting a lot of force (which possibly means you might be doing something wrong to begin with), and if you are cutting towards yourself while exerting a lot of force and the blade slips out from the cut or ends up finishing the cut faster than you thought it would, you can easily hurt yourself.
• Remember to keep your blades sharp so you don't have to use as much force when you make your cuts. Making sure your blades are sharp will also help ensure that your cuts stay clean as well.
General Safety Rules:
• For Hand Tools:
• Gloves = OKAY
• Goggles = If you think something could possibly break/shatter/explode while you are working on it, you should wear goggles. If you Don't think something could possibly break/shatter/explode while you are working on it, you NEED to wear goggles.
• Respirator/Mask = Depends on the material you are working with and what you are doing to it.
• For Power Tools & Equipment:• Goggles = If you think something could possibly break/shatter/explode while you are working on it, you should wear goggles. If you Don't think something could possibly break/shatter/explode while you are working on it, you NEED to wear goggles.
• Respirator/Mask = Depends on the material you are working with and what you are doing to it.
• Gloves = BAD
• Loose Clothing = BAD
• Long Hair Not Tied Back = BAD
• Open toed shoes = BAD
• Shorts/Skirts/Kilts/Anything not jeans that go down to your shoes = BAD
• Goggles = Mandatory
• Respirator/Mask = Depends on the material you are working with and what you are doing to it.
• Ear Plugs = Is it loud? If Yes, Earplugs = Yes; If No, Earplugs = No.
• Loose Clothing = BAD
• Long Hair Not Tied Back = BAD
• Open toed shoes = BAD
• Shorts/Skirts/Kilts/Anything not jeans that go down to your shoes = BAD
• Goggles = Mandatory
• Respirator/Mask = Depends on the material you are working with and what you are doing to it.
• Ear Plugs = Is it loud? If Yes, Earplugs = Yes; If No, Earplugs = No.
Refining the Shape of the Foam
Cleaning up Jagged EdgesTo be added
- Note: Rotary Tool can be used
Heat Gun
Usage: Used for adding curvature to the foam, allowing you to make round or formed shapes
Buying Options:
[Link & Price Needed]
Operating Temperature: [Input Needed]
Adding in Details
Wood Burner: [Product information to be added]
• How to Use: [Information to be added]
Rotary Tool (Dremel): [Product information to be added]
• How to Use: [Information to be added]
Additive Manufacturing: Use multiple layers of foam to build up details rather than trying to cut into the foam.
Hot Glue Gun & Hot Glue (High Temp Only) [Product information to be added]
DAP - Large Cans of Concrete Cement [Product information to be added]
3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive [Product information to be added]
Brushes & Tips on how to Spread your Glue
[Product information to be added]
Sealing the foam is also beneficial so that the foam does not absorb moisture, which will deteriorate the foam over time and cause it to progressively weigh more over time. Unlike composites, trying to cook the moisture out of the foam will be detrimental to the foam's lifespan.
Sealing for Paint
Heat Gun: Details to be added - Do not use Heat gun to seal foam after using Hot Glue, you will create issues with your seams.
Plastidip: [Product information to be added]
Rust-oleum FlexiDip: [Product information to be added]
• 405th Rating: Mixed reviews have been given, you can read them all here, in EVAkura's thread about the product.
Sealing for Surfacing
PVA: [Product information to be added]
Wood Glue: [Product information to be added]
Elmer's General Purpose White Glue: [Product information to be added]
Corn Starch:
Acetone: ?
Polyurethane (see Surfacing/Hardening section below)
Safety: [To be added]
Do's and Don'ts: [What Materials eat/dissolve _______ types of Foam?]
Filling Material for Gaps along Edges
• Caulk
Operating Temperature: [Input Needed]
Adding in Details
Wood Burner: [Product information to be added]
• How to Use: [Information to be added]
Rotary Tool (Dremel): [Product information to be added]
• How to Use: [Information to be added]
There are some usage tips on how to make use of your dremel with foam in fsracer's build thread.
Additive Manufacturing: Use multiple layers of foam to build up details rather than trying to cut into the foam.
Assembling the Foam
AdhesivesHot Glue Gun & Hot Glue (High Temp Only) [Product information to be added]
DAP - Large Cans of Concrete Cement [Product information to be added]
3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive [Product information to be added]
Brushes & Tips on how to Spread your Glue
[Product information to be added]
Sealing
Purpose: The purpose of sealing the foam is to add layer/surface above the layer of foam to which the foam can bond to. The sealant is added so that you can paint over the top of the sealant layer, since foam typically does not agree with paint products and is prone to getting eaten/dissolved by the paint.Sealing the foam is also beneficial so that the foam does not absorb moisture, which will deteriorate the foam over time and cause it to progressively weigh more over time. Unlike composites, trying to cook the moisture out of the foam will be detrimental to the foam's lifespan.
Sealing for Paint
Heat Gun: Details to be added - Do not use Heat gun to seal foam after using Hot Glue, you will create issues with your seams.
Plastidip: [Product information to be added]
Rust-oleum FlexiDip: [Product information to be added]
• 405th Rating: Mixed reviews have been given, you can read them all here, in EVAkura's thread about the product.
Sealing for Surfacing
PVA: [Product information to be added]
Wood Glue: [Product information to be added]
Elmer's General Purpose White Glue: [Product information to be added]
Corn Starch:
Acetone: ?
Polyurethane (see Surfacing/Hardening section below)
Safety: [To be added]
Do's and Don'ts: [What Materials eat/dissolve _______ types of Foam?]
Filling Material for Gaps along Edges
• Caulk
[Link & Price Needed]
How easy is it to Sand/Shape?: [Input Needed]
• Hot Glue
How easy is it to Sand/Shape?: [Input Needed]
• Hot Glue
[Link & Price Needed]
How easy is it to Sand/Shape?: [Input Needed]
• Please tell me we have other options!
Sanding
Types and Grades of Sand Paper:
80 Grit
100 Grit
220 Grit
550 Grit
[Product information to be added]
Harbor Freight Sander - $15
[Product information to be added]
Wet-Sanding vs. Dry Sanding: [Tips and Information to be added]
Now, some people might prefer a completely rigid/solid feel to the foam, but if you do that, then the externally hardened side will be more prone to damage. The damage that is likely is primarily cracking. The externally hardened side of the armor will want to resist flexing while the internal foam side will not resist flexing. As you apply stress to the parts, the hardened side will fatigue as it deforms. Think of it like glass, you can easily stand on the flat side of tempered glass and it will support an extremely high amount of pressure, but the second you apply a stress laterally, the glass will break. As you fatigue your armor, if it is not made to be flexible, then you will eventually begin to see stress fractures where the edges from 2 pieces of foam meet with one-another. The fractures will be crumpling from compression or cracking from tension. These can also be seen even if you have painted your armor, and can sometimes even be more visible with the paint, because it can cause the paint to chip and flake off.
So, keep in mind, it will be important to ensure that at the end of the build, you suit is still somewhat flexible. Make sure you reinforce areas in your armor where edges meet up by applying an extra layer of foam on the internal side of the corner/edge to increase the strength.
For those who are interested in having the plastic-y or metal feeling surface, here are some options:
Polyurethane: [Product information to be added]
Envirotex Lite Pour-On solution (see Carpathia's video): [Product information to be added]
Fiberglass Resin? Bondo? Rondo?
[Product information to be added]
Sanding/Detailing
Dremel: [Product information to be added]
Safety: [To be added]
Do's and Don'ts: [What Materials eat/dissolve _______ types of Foam?]
Recommended Paints / Paints that work on flexible surfaces
[Product information to be added]
Types of Paints to Avoid:
Do's and Don'ts: [What kind of Paint tends to eat/dissolve [What Kind of] Foam?]
Official Q&A Help Thread: "Help!" for: Foam
Q&A Thread, asked by Tom117: Calling all (or most) foam builders!
Ben Streeper's Guide: Foam Armoring - Contains Videos
DBmike's Guide: basic foam tutorial - Contains Videos
X-Robots Tutorials (External Link): http://www.xrobots.co.uk/ironmancostume/
TheRPF Foam Guide (External Link): http://www.therpf.com/f24/foam-speed-building-files-jango-fett-helmet-added-148889/
Supply Guides:
HaloGoddess: http://halogoddess.weebly.com/armor-making-the-foam-way.html
Video Guides/Tutorials:
Thread with Video links by Drack: Foam Technique Tutorials
- - • Video by Drack: Foam Technique Tutorial Part 1
- - • Video by Drack: Foam Technique Tutorial Part 2
- - • Video by Drack: Adding Lighting to Foam Builds/General Lighting Tutorial
Video by EVAkura: #1 Contouring and Forming EVA for armor
Video by EVAkura: #2 Making EVA detail lines
Video by EVAkura: #3 Uses for Dremel with EVA
Video by EVAkura: #4 Simple Electronics tips (LEDS)
Video by EVAkura: #5 Creating Templates Tips
Video by EVAkura: #6 Continuation of contour lines and templates
Video by EVAkura: #7 EVA cutting techniques
Tutorials on How to Build specific armor pieces from Foam:
Tutorial by EVAkura: Detailed construction tutorial: Reach Foam Forearms
Tutorial by EVAkura: Detailed construction tutorial: Reach Foam Biceps [Shoulder]
Tutorial by EVAkura: Detailed construction tutorial: Halo 4 MK VII Foam Biceps (file in the 405th db)
Tutorial by EVAkura: Detailed construction tutorial: FOAM H4 MC Shoulder Armor (NEW template! File within)
Foam Boot Discussion/Idea Thread by Apothacary: "Flexible" Spartan Boots ( quick tip for foam builds w/ pictures )
Hardening & Sealing Tutorials/Guides/Q&A:
Tutorial by EVAkura: Hardening EVA and Craft foam.
Tutorial by EVAkura: FOAM Builders! New hardening technique - Alternative to Plasti-dip and PVA!
Video Tutorial by Carpathia: Hardening Foam
Q & A Thread on Sealing Foam, asked by Ferret304: Foam Sealing Methods.
Info Thread & Video by Ithica (Very Old): Using Resin On Foam Sheets -
Build Threads:
Drack: MK VI Foam Build
Drack: Iron Man Foam Build
EVAkura: Aztlan's Halo 4 Rogue + Binary Rifle + M6H + Exo-suit WIP, PIC HEAVY!
LilTyrant: KAT ARMOR BUILD - with custom undersuit
RoxyRoo: RoxyRoo's Reach Build + Undersuit
TheBradinator: H4 Chief Scratch Foam Armor Build
Icon Props: Halo 4. Master Chief scratch, foam build.
Danielle_J!NX: J!NX's Halo 4 Master Chief Foam Build
Danielle_J!NX: J!NX's Commander Sarah Palmer Foam Build
Timecon: Reach and mass effects, its been awhile for me
Ravarkian: Ravarkian's Foam Noble 6 Build
Chefbzd: ChefBZD's Foam Reach Spartan Build WIP
hyundai2806: First Halo Foam Build(Project ODS-Variant) Unit-010 PIC HEAVY!!
bbc-Gunbunny02: Halo Reach Foam Armor Build Suit 1 of 2
Anhtrung: My custome odst foam armor
fsracer: Spartan 4 foam armor build (PIC HEAVY) - This thread contains a Dremel usage tutorial.
Zero-071: Second Foam Build, Reach MK V with Undersuit
kitnip: kitnip's Halo 4 Master Chief foam build with custom paint scheme and undersuit
Sepheus 13: Sepheus 13's Forging of a Mk V. (Foam)
Some Random Threads related to Foam:
• Something for you foam builders.
• Foam Builders......I hope This help
If you see that I am missing any helpful threads relating to foam building, please post a link. I am certain that I've probably missed quite a few.
How easy is it to Sand/Shape?: [Input Needed]
• Please tell me we have other options!
Sanding
Types and Grades of Sand Paper:
80 Grit
100 Grit
220 Grit
550 Grit
[Product information to be added]
Harbor Freight Sander - $15
[Product information to be added]
Wet-Sanding vs. Dry Sanding: [Tips and Information to be added]
Surfacing / "Hardening" the Foam / Making it Feel like Metal or Plastic
Purpose: The purpose of this is not to actually "Harden" the foam. You don't want to make the foam rigid, you still want it to be somewhat flexible, but you also want the surface to feel like Metal or Plastic, where it is smooth and when you touch it, it returns a sound more associated with what you would expect armor would make.Now, some people might prefer a completely rigid/solid feel to the foam, but if you do that, then the externally hardened side will be more prone to damage. The damage that is likely is primarily cracking. The externally hardened side of the armor will want to resist flexing while the internal foam side will not resist flexing. As you apply stress to the parts, the hardened side will fatigue as it deforms. Think of it like glass, you can easily stand on the flat side of tempered glass and it will support an extremely high amount of pressure, but the second you apply a stress laterally, the glass will break. As you fatigue your armor, if it is not made to be flexible, then you will eventually begin to see stress fractures where the edges from 2 pieces of foam meet with one-another. The fractures will be crumpling from compression or cracking from tension. These can also be seen even if you have painted your armor, and can sometimes even be more visible with the paint, because it can cause the paint to chip and flake off.
So, keep in mind, it will be important to ensure that at the end of the build, you suit is still somewhat flexible. Make sure you reinforce areas in your armor where edges meet up by applying an extra layer of foam on the internal side of the corner/edge to increase the strength.
For those who are interested in having the plastic-y or metal feeling surface, here are some options:
Polyurethane: [Product information to be added]
Envirotex Lite Pour-On solution (see Carpathia's video): [Product information to be added]
Fiberglass Resin? Bondo? Rondo?
[Product information to be added]
Sanding/Detailing
Dremel: [Product information to be added]
Safety: [To be added]
Do's and Don'ts: [What Materials eat/dissolve _______ types of Foam?]
Painting
NOTICE: It is important to note that certain paints are known to dissolve and eat foam. Because of this, it is important to make sure that you have sealed and/or hardened your foam and/or you are using a type of paint that will not dissolve the kind of foam you are using.Recommended Paints / Paints that work on flexible surfaces
[Product information to be added]
Types of Paints to Avoid:
Do's and Don'ts: [What kind of Paint tends to eat/dissolve [What Kind of] Foam?]
Foam Tutorials, Q&A Threads, & Detailed 405th Foam Build Threads
General Topics on Foam:Official Q&A Help Thread: "Help!" for: Foam
Q&A Thread, asked by Tom117: Calling all (or most) foam builders!
Ben Streeper's Guide: Foam Armoring - Contains Videos
DBmike's Guide: basic foam tutorial - Contains Videos
X-Robots Tutorials (External Link): http://www.xrobots.co.uk/ironmancostume/
TheRPF Foam Guide (External Link): http://www.therpf.com/f24/foam-speed-building-files-jango-fett-helmet-added-148889/
Supply Guides:
HaloGoddess: http://halogoddess.weebly.com/armor-making-the-foam-way.html
Video Guides/Tutorials:
Thread with Video links by Drack: Foam Technique Tutorials
- - • Video by Drack: Foam Technique Tutorial Part 1
- - • Video by Drack: Foam Technique Tutorial Part 2
- - • Video by Drack: Adding Lighting to Foam Builds/General Lighting Tutorial
Video by EVAkura: #1 Contouring and Forming EVA for armor
Video by EVAkura: #2 Making EVA detail lines
Video by EVAkura: #3 Uses for Dremel with EVA
Video by EVAkura: #4 Simple Electronics tips (LEDS)
Video by EVAkura: #5 Creating Templates Tips
Video by EVAkura: #6 Continuation of contour lines and templates
Video by EVAkura: #7 EVA cutting techniques
Tutorials on How to Build specific armor pieces from Foam:
Tutorial by EVAkura: Detailed construction tutorial: Reach Foam Forearms
Tutorial by EVAkura: Detailed construction tutorial: Reach Foam Biceps [Shoulder]
Tutorial by EVAkura: Detailed construction tutorial: Halo 4 MK VII Foam Biceps (file in the 405th db)
Tutorial by EVAkura: Detailed construction tutorial: FOAM H4 MC Shoulder Armor (NEW template! File within)
Foam Boot Discussion/Idea Thread by Apothacary: "Flexible" Spartan Boots ( quick tip for foam builds w/ pictures )
Hardening & Sealing Tutorials/Guides/Q&A:
Tutorial by EVAkura: Hardening EVA and Craft foam.
Tutorial by EVAkura: FOAM Builders! New hardening technique - Alternative to Plasti-dip and PVA!
Video Tutorial by Carpathia: Hardening Foam
Q & A Thread on Sealing Foam, asked by Ferret304: Foam Sealing Methods.
Info Thread & Video by Ithica (Very Old): Using Resin On Foam Sheets -
Build Threads:
Drack: MK VI Foam Build
Drack: Iron Man Foam Build
EVAkura: Aztlan's Halo 4 Rogue + Binary Rifle + M6H + Exo-suit WIP, PIC HEAVY!
LilTyrant: KAT ARMOR BUILD - with custom undersuit
RoxyRoo: RoxyRoo's Reach Build + Undersuit
TheBradinator: H4 Chief Scratch Foam Armor Build
Icon Props: Halo 4. Master Chief scratch, foam build.
Danielle_J!NX: J!NX's Halo 4 Master Chief Foam Build
Danielle_J!NX: J!NX's Commander Sarah Palmer Foam Build
Timecon: Reach and mass effects, its been awhile for me
Ravarkian: Ravarkian's Foam Noble 6 Build
Chefbzd: ChefBZD's Foam Reach Spartan Build WIP
hyundai2806: First Halo Foam Build(Project ODS-Variant) Unit-010 PIC HEAVY!!
bbc-Gunbunny02: Halo Reach Foam Armor Build Suit 1 of 2
Anhtrung: My custome odst foam armor
fsracer: Spartan 4 foam armor build (PIC HEAVY) - This thread contains a Dremel usage tutorial.
Zero-071: Second Foam Build, Reach MK V with Undersuit
kitnip: kitnip's Halo 4 Master Chief foam build with custom paint scheme and undersuit
Sepheus 13: Sepheus 13's Forging of a Mk V. (Foam)
Some Random Threads related to Foam:
• Something for you foam builders.
• Foam Builders......I hope This help
If you see that I am missing any helpful threads relating to foam building, please post a link. I am certain that I've probably missed quite a few.
Last edited by a moderator: