xalener
Well-Known Member
xobx said:Everyone, EVERYONE uses A4... exept you
.....No, that's not racist...
I would post a letter version, but I don't have the full version of PEP.
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xobx said:Everyone, EVERYONE uses A4... exept you
thanks, i appreciate that.SH_Jack said:Sorry to hear about the personal issues, FS, I hope that turns out well for you.
haha, what a first project!!! i meant to say the best place to start is the top, then the back and the jaw last. that's just going by the amount and size of folds. then when assembling them attach the back to the top and the jaw last... again. that allows the back and top to get support for when your attaching the jaw, otherwise if you attach the jaw to the top the connection is very weak for when your attaching the top and if you attach the jaw and the back it makes it damn awkward to get at the tabs with a glue gun.Skullcandy Girl said:Well for my first pep project this is fun and challenging, though I'm learning the hard way with the jaw and little tabs I should have built our from the center of the jaw... so gluing is being a pain. I've never done this XD. The jaw is almost done and I started on the top of the helmet, I'll have pics soon. Hahah mine definantley isn't as clean as the others posted on here, but, I think it looks pretty good
and now I'm nervous because I see people who are around my height coming up with bigger scaling sizes...
aww, thanky! free cardboard is always good, even if you don't need it right away! dunno what the eta for the other parts is, I'm working on a better and properly detailed torso atm and after that its shoulder, fore arms, hips/crotch, thighs and legs. most likely in that order. if you cant get interweb while your away gimma a shout n ill see about putting em on a CD n posting em to you.Darth-Malevelus said:Well, guys Im finally back for abit. I managed to land two full reams of yellow cardboard paper for free!
WOOT!
I have the AR already built, which I will get to hopefully here soon as far as making it a solid replica.
I also have the plans for the helmet, and the torso all printed out.
I must say the helmet, AR, and Torso are awesome looking!!! Great job.
In contrary to an earlier post on another page. I dont mind the small pieces, especially since Im making a full blown 501st grade costume. Id rather spend alittle more time glueing small pieces on a paper mold, than hours sanding and smoothing out issues later with far harder to deal with materials.
Just curious squirrel, whats the ETA for the other parts???
I have a month and a half or so before I get to play out to sea for more than half a year. Im hoping I can get the majority of the costume built, or at least printed onto paper before Feb 08.
No pressure!!!
LOL
Thanks for all youve done man!! I can wait for the next .PDO file release!
Keep us informed!!!
("bombs are not a race!!!" heh) damn. well im not condoning it but i think someone posted a keygen somewhere here, there probibly banned now thoe.xalener said:.....No, that's not racist...
I would post a letter version, but I don't have the full version of PEP.
thank you. heh, yea, i was meant to be ridiculously simple for people who wanted a quick one for halo-ween. ill be working on the suit for a while but my friend (bunnyumptious) is thinking about working on a hd weapon or too. ISNT THAT RIGHT BUNNYUMPTIOUS?!!!! shes not guna reply. she want to wait till she has something to show so shes not miss taken for another 12yr old noob. hahaha. but yea, i much prefer using paper then getting that horrible bondo dust on my skin. i know its dust but its like it sinks in or something.... smells good thoe.s-meister said:FS I can't thank you enough for what you've done with the pep files. BUT, I find your AR a bit too simple ^^. Could you detail the hell out of it? I think the more paper folds you have to do, the less glazing there is later.
flying_squirl said:thanks, i appreciate that.i think it is (as much as it can).
haha, what a first project!!! i meant to say the best place to start is the top, then the back and the jaw last. that's just going by the amount and size of folds. then when assembling them attach the back to the top and the jaw last... again. that allows the back and top to get support for when your attaching the jaw, otherwise if you attach the jaw to the top the connection is very weak for when your attaching the top and if you attach the jaw and the back it makes it damn awkward to get at the tabs with a glue gun.
aww, thanky! free cardboard is always good, even if you don't need it right away! dunno what the eta for the other parts is, I'm working on a better and properly detailed torso atm and after that its shoulder, fore arms, hips/crotch, thighs and legs. most likely in that order. if you cant get interweb while your away gimma a shout n ill see about putting em on a CD n posting em to you.
Skullcandy Girl said:I'm sure I'll do another one of these.
Ruze789 said:Many more... many, many more.
I'm currently scoring and gluing my 7th helmet. Because I just can't stop.
hmm, was it you i emailed there the other day? (ive got the memory of a... what was i saying?...)Darth-Malevelus said:I could use that! I have very limited online, lets just say little to none while out to sea.
If possible if you could sent them via CD-rom or via email attachment would be awesome!
I like the AR as is it. The only thing I might say would help with the molding process is, adding the notches to the upper top in fron tof the round couter, and along the rear sides of the stock. and maybe some cross beam internal supports for stiffness with the paper mold. But those can also be added by hand later too. So its no biggy.
Its a great job! The only thing that sucks is the wait!!! LOL
When I get some time Im going to b looking into alternatives to resin/fiberglass. Im looking for someting that would cure into plastic, that would be strong, yet safe to work with. oh yeah and cheap!
haha, well hot glue guns might hurt your fingers but superglue make you loose your finger prints XD (and your grip for that matter, damn hard to pick up paper with perfictly smooth fingertips!)Skullcandy Girl said:Arghy argh XD!!! Well I'm attaching a lot of the top pieces together. I'm going section by section, though I'm glad you gave me some hints on what to attach and when, even if I messed it up a bit. I'm actually using super glue with a needle nose applicator, glue guns hurt XD And I have small enough hands I can get them into small places. I'm glad I chose something hard though. I don't like doing stuff the easy way... yeah I'm a bit stubborn and crazy but I feel like I learn moreI'm sure I'll do another one of these. Thanks again FS!
7th? bloody hell!!! hopfully not all my hd ones? right? right?!Ruze789 said:Many more... many, many more.
I'm currently scoring and gluing my 7th helmet. Because I just can't stop.
elmers? is that like epoxy resin?Darth-Malevelus said:I just use good ole elmers. It take a few seconds to thicken up and set, but works pertty good for me.
hehehe, im a pep dealerSkullcandy Girl said:Hahaha ah cardboard crack![]()
dont worry, its not a stupid question but unfortunatly the answer is i havnt a clue. sorry, i think your best bet is to use the scale for the halo 2 models, check the hight i comes out with and then apply that to my model. if you have time dont start it yet cuz im back workin on the better torso again.crackhead09 said:hey fs regarding your torso model and the scale
im 5 feet 8 inches and weigh about 155 what scale should the torso be?
I would like to know because im making the armor for a project at school so i may graduate
oh and i have your latestest helmet done and glassed just needs paint and sanding(love your work saves me time)
sorry if this question is annoying
darthturkey said:Well i need a little bit of help. I used the scaling method that was posted and in my opinion it was completly off. So i added about2 or 4 centimeteres to the height. So i made the tester and it is really tight fit. I have to bend it out to the sides to get it on (Even after i trimmed the neck). ALso it has no breathing room. If you cant picture it ill post a pic but should i go from 24 to 26 cm. I am btw 5 foot 1.
well if youve got no breathing room somethings off. ide suggest trying the size tester at 26.5, its the hight the high detailed one is set out at and it might save you a good deal of time if its right. rember it will be quite roomy inside. the magority (as far as i know) of people go for 25 to 29 cm so 26.5 is generly a safe bet.darthturkey said:Well i need a little bit of help. I used the scaling method that was posted and in my opinion it was completly off. So i added about2 or 4 centimeteres to the height. So i made the tester and it is really tight fit. I have to bend it out to the sides to get it on (Even after i trimmed the neck). ALso it has no breathing room. If you cant picture it ill post a pic but should i go from 24 to 26 cm. I am btw 5 foot 1.
ohhh, yea i know that glue, its basicly the same as wood glue. pva right? ohyea, ive gotten stuff from smooth on before, i dont think we had any problems. hmm, upper and lower arms are guna be right after the torso (which im makin good progress on) dunno exactly when they'll be thoe.Darth-Malevelus said:no its not a resin, LOL elmers glue. Comes in the white plastic bottle, found in most elementry school class rooms.
I found a company call smooth on that sells the plastic resin. There are lots of companies that sell this stuff. Just do a google search for liquid plastic casting resin. But please no matter the cost stay away from the products using methyl ethyl ketone peroxide(mekp) as a mixing agent. Its extremely dangerous, and if inproperly mixed, will cause whats called in the industry, a thermal run away. (basically a large caustic, and very toxic fire you cannot put out)
Right now I have purchased the laquer, and two tubes of rtv silicone. out 10 bucks.
I have to rebuild the AR as the kids crushed it. But working on it.
My plan is to go the cheapest route I can.
Build the pep file, spray it with several coats of laquer, smear caulking all over it in several layers(till its sufficiently thick), once cured, use spray foam to fill in around the mold to provide support so the mold wont warp. then peel away the pep AR, use a plastic resin prepigmented a dark gun metal grey, lay several coats until sufficiently thick say 3/16" thick, repeat for other side of pep paper mold.
So FS whats the status on the arms upper, lower and hands?
Could you send me the H3 model so I can work on it too? Plus if I get sent out on the ship I can still have something to work on.
Let me know
Thanks
ydeardorff@hotmail.com
deardorff.yaughn@cvn72.navy.mil
This way should be pretty cheap. Although going with a type of body filler like bondo may be even cheaper.
this is true, messed me up a bit when i was makin a body for my helicopter(ahh, the good ol days of low poly). actualy i should post some pics of it, i made a body for my rc helicopter so it looked like a combine gun ship from half life 2. it worked too!Darth-Malevelus said:It could also be your printers settings, some printer will rescale the picture file to fit if the margins are set to default.
ide go for the 26 one, save yourself some trouble. the tester looks funky.darthturkey said:Well is the measurements in the corner correct of the Pepakura program. Also in the tester helmet the measurements are different then what they come out to be in the fancy one. Now its tight around the ears, i have to strech itout to get it over them. Also this is the tester helmet and have no breathing room but i can get it on. So at 23.9 cm height wise on the tester or the scale being 0.235466 should i push it up to 25 or 26 for the fancy helmet. Or would that screw up all my measurements.Further is the scaling different on the fancy then the tester. Also here is a pic of the tester after i strech it over to go on:
there ya go, thats a good idea. althoe i think alot of ppl (including myself) needed to trim a bit off the base of the helmet.Darth-Malevelus said:I made fraz's H2 helmet, and stock it fit my son well, for me I ended up the same as you, nearly tearing the paper mold apart trying to get it over my ears. The only thing I can say is use the pep viewer program and build the bottom of the helmet, try to fit it over your head, if its a comfy fit keep going, if not rescale up 10 percent or so and retry.
kewl! any picks?darthturkey said:Well i started after some printing trouble and now im about maybe 1/6 or a lil less done. I have the lower back up to the identation in the middle as well as the cross pieces leading outward. Also the side of it with the ident by the ear.