"Help!" for: Electronics
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thatdecade
Well-Known Member
thespectre117,
PC fans can come with 2, 3, or 4 wires but will always have one black and one red wire. As Madsvg said, red = positive, black = negative
NobleEight,
any small screen device that can display a picture slideshow will work fine. Look into the inexpensive small digital photoframes. Functioning touchscreen is a plus but not required.
MW Immortalking,
Yes, an arduino can control most any project and has good community support. However, I do not like the look of that first circuit. MP3 decoders get complicated real fast. A better option is to get an arduino shield made for wav sound playback. This option is cheaper, simpler to program, and offers higher fidelity.
http://www.ladyada.net/make/waveshield/
PC fans can come with 2, 3, or 4 wires but will always have one black and one red wire. As Madsvg said, red = positive, black = negative
NobleEight,
any small screen device that can display a picture slideshow will work fine. Look into the inexpensive small digital photoframes. Functioning touchscreen is a plus but not required.
MW Immortalking,
Yes, an arduino can control most any project and has good community support. However, I do not like the look of that first circuit. MP3 decoders get complicated real fast. A better option is to get an arduino shield made for wav sound playback. This option is cheaper, simpler to program, and offers higher fidelity.
http://www.ladyada.net/make/waveshield/
MW Immortalking
Active Member
well I have to like make up a schematic or be able to have a schematic that I can look at and work to understand for my project do you know what chip it is that is converting the data on the SD into audio for the speaker?
Also do you know anything about eh VS1053? Its a different Audio decoder I was considering instead of the STA013
but if you think there's a simpler way of getting the Arduino to play Audio then that might be a good idea for my project XD
But yeah I think Im ready to build the BCD to 7Segment portion now I need to figure out how I'm going to design the audio player and how to program the Arduino to run it all.
EDIT: I found the schematic. Ok so, on this .Wav board the Arduino just outputs PWM into the DAC that is then converted into audio rather than coded mp3 or whatnot for a chip like the VS1053?
Also do you know anything about eh VS1053? Its a different Audio decoder I was considering instead of the STA013
but if you think there's a simpler way of getting the Arduino to play Audio then that might be a good idea for my project XD
But yeah I think Im ready to build the BCD to 7Segment portion now I need to figure out how I'm going to design the audio player and how to program the Arduino to run it all.
EDIT: I found the schematic. Ok so, on this .Wav board the Arduino just outputs PWM into the DAC that is then converted into audio rather than coded mp3 or whatnot for a chip like the VS1053?
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
Sounds like an ok summary of the deign notes from the website.
http://www.ladyada.net/make/waveshield/design.html
http://www.ladyada.net/images/wavshield/v11/wave11schem.png
http://www.ladyada.net/make/waveshield/design.html
http://www.ladyada.net/images/wavshield/v11/wave11schem.png
Hello, Ok I have well lol big problem for me. I m kinda of dumb at put elec together. I have few question and I have pictures to add here hope any of ya explain or draw one up right way for me. I made one that I Think it should be. Please correct me because I dont want my helmet go up in flame lol. ok i have few question - how or what do you put cover to protect it from shorting? like wire to the led and its weld metal and nothing cover it? do you get heat wrapper or what? what do you wrap it with? elec tape? and um what do you use to keep the wire in place in the helmet or anything? hot glue the wire to it? and um here the pictures that I think of and what I m plan to use or am I missing something and thank you so much for your help 
I m in learning processing
My idea :
If that picture r wrong pls explain to me here with this picture
Oh yea add to this. in um Mini toggle dpdt on-on switch 125 it have 6 metal stick out so lol um which am i suppose to use? or which is suppose for etc.
like this
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| o o |
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| o o |
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| o o |
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Thank you soo much again .
I m in learning processing My idea :
If that picture r wrong pls explain to me here with this picture
Oh yea add to this. in um Mini toggle dpdt on-on switch 125 it have 6 metal stick out so lol um which am i suppose to use? or which is suppose for etc.
like this
_______
| |
| o o |
| |
| o o |
| |
| o o |
--------
Thank you soo much again .
MW Immortalking
Active Member
here's the discussion I've been having with someone on the Arduino Forums http://www.arduino.cc/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1288768932/0
I Think I'm going to use a DAC8554IPW
I Think I'm going to use a DAC8554IPW
MW Immortalking
Active Member
Hello, Ok I have well lol big problem for me. I m kinda of dumb at put elec together. I have few question and I have pictures to add here hope any of ya explain or draw one up right way for me. I made one that I Think it should be. Please correct me because I dont want my helmet go up in flame lol. ok i have few question - how or what do you put cover to protect it from shorting? like wire to the led and its weld metal and nothing cover it? do you get heat wrapper or what? what do you wrap it with? elec tape? and um what do you use to keep the wire in place in the helmet or anything? hot glue the wire to it? and um here the pictures that I think of and what I m plan to use or am I missing something and thank you so much for your help
Do you know what current your LEDs draw or what Voltage they operate at?
You need to get resistors that match the Voltage draw of your LEDs your battery will be 9V and voltage is constant across parallel circuits so if your LED runs at 5V then you need a resistor value that will have a 4V drop across it.
Your wiring diagram looks correct albeit messy so you're good there. Except the switch. As for the Switch, the middle contacts are your input and then you use either side for your output.
http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb134/s2000gan/Wiringdiagram.jpg
Ok those kinds stuffs I m getting is Just same as the list in Noob complete list. everything is there. so you saying two top and two bottom is for output and the middle one is for input which black one to one metal and one red to other metal?
MW Immortalking
Active Member
the switch with 6 contacts is actually 2 switches in one
the middle 2 are the input connect that to the + of your battery and the sides are the outputs which you connect to the resistors which you connect to the Anode (longer side) of the LED
the middle 2 are the input connect that to the + of your battery and the sides are the outputs which you connect to the resistors which you connect to the Anode (longer side) of the LED
MW Immortalking
Active Member
the lines you colored yellow are the symbol for a switch the 4 lines are the symbol for a power supply in your case a battery and yeah you got the symbol for resistor and LED
(The pole is the positive terminal the throw is the negative terminal)
All you need for your LEDs is a SPST
(The pole is the positive terminal the throw is the negative terminal)
All you need for your LEDs is a SPST
MW Immortalking
Active Member
ok for youre LEDs you'll want something like this
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/leds.htm (the one labeled RL5-W18015) they're 18000mcd (which means they're slightly brighter)
9 volt battery connector
you'll want 160 Ohm resistors because the LEDs I linked you to run at 4 volts so that means there will be a 5 volt drop across the resistor.
and they draw 30mA of current so we calculate the resistance of the resistor using Ohm's Law I= E/R converted into R=E/I also I would just get 5% tolerance because they're more common and cheaper than 1% tolerance.
As for a switch you just need a SPST rated for at least 9VDC and 12 mA also I'd recommend a pushbutton rather than a throw arm like the one in your pic
as for the wire I'd recommend just getting 22 gauge and doesn't really mater what its rated for as most wire is rated for more volts than you're using
Here's a wiring diagram for ppl who dont understand the symbols (Also NOTE: The Brown Purple Brown Gold Resistor means 160 Ohm 5% which is the resistor you will want) Any more resistance and you will not be shining the LED as bright as its made to which isn't bad just buy why buy an LED you're not using at 100% any less resistance and you will be overloading your LED
BE SURE TO WIRE THE BLACK WIRES TO THE SHORT ENDS OF THE LEDs
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=/leds.htm (the one labeled RL5-W18015) they're 18000mcd (which means they're slightly brighter)
9 volt battery connector
you'll want 160 Ohm resistors because the LEDs I linked you to run at 4 volts so that means there will be a 5 volt drop across the resistor.
and they draw 30mA of current so we calculate the resistance of the resistor using Ohm's Law I= E/R converted into R=E/I also I would just get 5% tolerance because they're more common and cheaper than 1% tolerance.
As for a switch you just need a SPST rated for at least 9VDC and 12 mA also I'd recommend a pushbutton rather than a throw arm like the one in your pic
as for the wire I'd recommend just getting 22 gauge and doesn't really mater what its rated for as most wire is rated for more volts than you're using
Here's a wiring diagram for ppl who dont understand the symbols (Also NOTE: The Brown Purple Brown Gold Resistor means 160 Ohm 5% which is the resistor you will want) Any more resistance and you will not be shining the LED as bright as its made to which isn't bad just buy why buy an LED you're not using at 100% any less resistance and you will be overloading your LED
BE SURE TO WIRE THE BLACK WIRES TO THE SHORT ENDS OF THE LEDs
thatdecade
Well-Known Member
MW Immortalking,
Running a LED a little hot is not a problem (double rated current). Instead of 100s of thousands of operating hours, the LED will get thousands or hundreds of operating hours.
The advantage is using parts you already have or making the LED brighter than it should be.
Running a LED a little hot is not a problem (double rated current). Instead of 100s of thousands of operating hours, the LED will get thousands or hundreds of operating hours.
The advantage is using parts you already have or making the LED brighter than it should be.
King Ramna
Jr Member
@ MWimmortalking i could be wrong but i am sure u only need 1 resistor inbetween the battery and the switch.
What about using EL tape?
http://www.crazypc.com/products/neon_wire_blue-8430B.html
I found the above site and was thinking about using that as an alternative to the LEDs since the light emitted would look more unified rather than "dotty". Though it also requires an inverter.
http://www.crazypc.com/products/neon_wire_blue-8430B.html
I found the above site and was thinking about using that as an alternative to the LEDs since the light emitted would look more unified rather than "dotty". Though it also requires an inverter.
MW Immortalking
Active Member
I believe you could but you would need a lower Resistance resistor rated at a higher wattage as you will have more current flowing through it.
When you use 4 resistors you need a 160 Ohm 1/4W 5%
If you want to use 1 you need a 40 Ohm 1W 5%
MW Immortalking
Active Member
The LEDs I linked you to are pretty much the same
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