"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura
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gamemaster111
New Member
you may be confused if there using actual fiberglass cloth or just the resin, "there is a world of difference"
when i made my odst helmet i used just the resin and only on the inside, and then strenghtend the helmet with bondo also on the inside
so as to keep all the edges on the outside sharp and uniform.
if you had used it on the outside the resin might pool in some areas, a small level of detail can be lost depending on what your making
but some pefer to coat the outside anyway, mostly because bondo is used later to create smooth surfaces and detail on the helmet or armor
its up to you to decide if you want to do the ouside or inside, but if it is fiberglass cloth that your planning on using
im pretty sure you should only do that on the inside and not the outside
when i made my odst helmet i used just the resin and only on the inside, and then strenghtend the helmet with bondo also on the inside
so as to keep all the edges on the outside sharp and uniform.
if you had used it on the outside the resin might pool in some areas, a small level of detail can be lost depending on what your making
but some pefer to coat the outside anyway, mostly because bondo is used later to create smooth surfaces and detail on the helmet or armor
its up to you to decide if you want to do the ouside or inside, but if it is fiberglass cloth that your planning on using
im pretty sure you should only do that on the inside and not the outside
I already said all of that, but to add, you can avoid pooling in most areas by not laying the resin on too thick, and mixing the batch "hot" with extra hardener, this shortens the working time, so you need to work in smaller batches, but it will cure faster and not pool as badly. Doing just the inside, just the outside, or both, is all half situational, half personal preferences. A time when you want one layer out, two in, is when you're working with a low weight paper, and the extra strength is required to support the paper while you're laying the fiberglass cloth.
On the subject of resin, though. If you have further questions, almost everything can be answered by Cereal Kill3r's video set, which walks you through detail of the armoring process:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...-Chief-**-A-Step-By-Step-Tutorial-(My-Way)-**
On the subject of resin, though. If you have further questions, almost everything can be answered by Cereal Kill3r's video set, which walks you through detail of the armoring process:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...-Chief-**-A-Step-By-Step-Tutorial-(My-Way)-**
gamemaster111
New Member
you could just prime and paint
but your armor would not have smooth shapes and gradual slopes
instead it would have polygons and it might not look how you want it to
what im doing is using a combination of fiberglass resin and bondo mixed together and applying that to my armor
then sanding it to shape, this way i can cover up mistakes and add detail to my armor
then my armor wont look like a bunch of squares
also just resining your armor will not make it strong enough to handle countinous handling
i suggest strenthing your armor by adding either fiberglass cloth on the inside or
rondo which is car bondo and fiberglass (RESIN) mixed together, im using it on the inside to make my armor stronger
and on the outside for detail
but your armor would not have smooth shapes and gradual slopes
instead it would have polygons and it might not look how you want it to
what im doing is using a combination of fiberglass resin and bondo mixed together and applying that to my armor
then sanding it to shape, this way i can cover up mistakes and add detail to my armor
then my armor wont look like a bunch of squares
also just resining your armor will not make it strong enough to handle countinous handling
i suggest strenthing your armor by adding either fiberglass cloth on the inside or
rondo which is car bondo and fiberglass (RESIN) mixed together, im using it on the inside to make my armor stronger
and on the outside for detail
If you have time, really you should watch those videos I linked. They will explain they whys and hows of the armor process.
But in a nutshell, you have to rondo and/or fiberglass the inside so the armor won't crumple when worn. You have to resin the outside so the armor won't crumple when you're applying the rondo/fiberglass. You bondo the outside if you don't want it to look blocky and boxy, the edges and corners of the pepakura squares will show through the paint and look pretty ugly, like this:
Ziebster
Jr Member
I know this is probably asked over and over and over again, but I couldn't find anything from the pages in here that I looked through so I feel like I should just ask the question. If someone has said something about it, please don't be shy, tell my I'm dumb, been looking in the wrong place, and point me in the right direction.
I've been building my helmet, and since the materials at my disposal are limited, I've had to use normal paper instead of card stock (which I believe is what you're supposed to use?). I was wondering is it easier to just keep going with my paper model, and just put a lot of effort into it and resin it and rondo and give it the works times twenty, or should I just go back and start over with card stock? I really just don't know, and I need someone else's voice on the matter.
I've been building my helmet, and since the materials at my disposal are limited, I've had to use normal paper instead of card stock (which I believe is what you're supposed to use?). I was wondering is it easier to just keep going with my paper model, and just put a lot of effort into it and resin it and rondo and give it the works times twenty, or should I just go back and start over with card stock? I really just don't know, and I need someone else's voice on the matter.
- Member DIN
- S980
If cost is your concern, then start over in card stock. It's much cheaper than the cost of the extra resin and Bondo you will consume doctoring up the warps in the paper. When you resin the paper or card stock, it temporarily loses its strength, just the same as if you wet it with water. This will make it want to sag and cure with warps. The thickness of the cardstock helps resist the warping as well as provides more fibers for the resin to infuse. A paper model will likely collapse under its own weight before it cures.
Redshirt
Ziebster
Jr Member
Thanks very much, I'll start over then. It gave me good practice to try and do it this far anyway, so the next one will be better
TheReconSpartan
Member
When i want to see a print preview of the pages, it keeps on telling me to adjust the scale, and then when i want to print the pages it tells me in this little window to adjust the scale again. What does that mean?!?!?!? How can i "adjust" the scale and make it go bye bye, if you know how to fix it or have the same problem let me know by posting a message how to fix it on my profile or be on my side and convince me that im not the only one that is having this problem. Take care
- TheReconSpartan
- TheReconSpartan
It is usually because a tiny corner is overlapping another piece or hanging off the edge of the paper by a micrometer. You should always say "No" to changing the scale. You can either live with the error message, or if you own pepakura designer, try and fix it yourself. Most people don't fork out the 40$, in which case you have to just hit "no" and continue on. I feel your pain, some of the files will give this error message no matter how spaced out and far from the margins the pieces are, others I can look and say "Oh, that one is hanging off the edge of the paper" and fix it and the message goes away.
Hope this helps.
I'll post this to your profile too, since you asked.
Hope this helps.
I'll post this to your profile too, since you asked.
wolfer O01
New Member
i just got a new computer so i went to download pepakura viewer but it looks different to me and seems to be missing a lot of what it use to have for example i cant scale any more. can some one let me know if i am just stupid or if they made it so you cant any more. any help would be great.
Satchmo III
Well-Known Member
It sounds like you may have downloaded Pepakura Viewer which does not allow you to scale. You may want to go back to Tamasoft's website and download Pepakura Designer.
Green Theorem
New Member
This never really got answered before but I'd really like to know if the pep process could be applied to sheet metal and welding... I know it's heavy and impractical but it could add a somewhat realistic weight to things like replica swords and such.
gamemaster111
New Member
i wouldnt think so since pepakura revolves around using paper (cardstock or not) and cutting then folding to the desired form not metal
but ive seen people make foam armor/weapons using pepakura as a template and cutting the foam out as the same shape then gluing that together
but working with sheet metal could be unforgiving, if a mistake is made cutting the pieces of metal then your left with scrap metal. then what if you weld said pieces together incorectly, you might not be able to reuse it at that point
technically its possible though it would reqiure plenty of planning probably more time and funds then making it out of paper
- Member DIN
- S980
I'm currently using the pep pattern for the lower receiver of the Spartan Laser to cut aluminum stock to weld into a full metal receiver. It takes some planning to separate out the different layers and fill in gaps left by removing those layers. In the end, you end up tracing your own patterns, but you do use the pep sheets to set the size and shape of the patterns. I'm a couple of weeks from having my metal work far enough along to post, but I can tell you, this works. And, like Gamemaster predicted, the metal is unforgiving. I am accumulating a small but growing pile of scrap to accompany my completed parts. Check back on that thread or PM me if you need further details.
Redshirt
odst gauntlet
i am in the process of making odst armor and downloaded a gauntlet pep file from halocostuming wiki done by jasson225 but have no idea on the scale of it as i have muscular forearms that go into small wrists my forearm size is (L) 260 x (W) 120 x (D) 120 can any1 help me with this?
i am in the process of making odst armor and downloaded a gauntlet pep file from halocostuming wiki done by jasson225 but have no idea on the scale of it as i have muscular forearms that go into small wrists my forearm size is (L) 260 x (W) 120 x (D) 120 can any1 help me with this?
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