"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

[Katsu]

Hi there, having problems saving/Dling .pdo files, if I click i get sent to the hosting site, if I right click and 'save link as' I get a file but when trying to open it in pepakura veiwer 3 I get 'NO DATA FOR DEVELOPMENT' message, any tips?

Isn't the no data for development message meaning the file is NOT unfolded, right? When you click through the error message, it should show just the 3d model on the left, and no unfold on the right. If that is the case, it means that file isn't unfolded. Help us out and let us know which file this is.

If it truly isn't unfolded, then you either have to unfold it yourself, or find an alternative file.

 

[Sealgair]

Problem of scaling Belakor's Recon Shoulder attachment

Hi everyone. I have an issue of scaling Belakor's Recon shoulder file. I have absolutely no idea where to put in the height of this thing, as all three pieces show up in different positions to each other in the left hand window of the pep designer.

They should be attached to each other and this is giving me a hard time deciding on how to scale it. Can somebody help me?

I originally intended on writing Belakor, but as he hasn't been online since 2010 i decided to post it here

 

[Ral Partha]

Hi everyone. I have an issue of scaling Belakor's Recon shoulder file. I have absolutely no idea where to put in the height of this thing, as all three pieces show up in different positions to each other in the left hand window of the pep designer.

[image]

They should be attached to each other and this is giving me a hard time deciding on how to scale it. Can somebody help me?

If you're using Belakor's recon helmet file, simply take its scale number and use it on these attachments.

 

[Sealgair]

Thank you Ral Partha! I just feel so stupid now, i actually knew about that scale factor thing and how to use it, but it didn't come to my mind.

 

[Marty Falco]

general pep help

So I guess my first question is this: 1) Does the paper size that the file by default comes in affect anything such as scale? For example, I worked on a BELAKOR recon helmet that says in the file name "A4" and by default the paper size that's set is for A4.

The second piece I'm starting on (the chest) by default is set to paper size "Letter" when you open the program. I just don't want to make another scaling mistake like I did when I first attempted the BELAKOR recon helmet (it turned out way to small first go around). I'm planning on using HaloGoddess's method for this chest piece. Her scaling tut is below:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...quot-and-More-Tutorial?highlight=sticky+scale

2) The default scale that a file is when you download and open it, is it a good/bad if your new calculated scale is larger/smaller than the default scale? I heard somewhere that the Halo armor pieces by default were scaled to the Master Chief's size, so therefore it sounds bad if any of your pieces came to be larger than the default scale (unless you're bigger than the MC).

3) This is probably very basic, but in Pep designer if you have one single piece that's too large for the page, how can you split it up? By default there are no visible split lines where you can use the "divide/connect" tool to split up the piece. More easily said, there is one solid piece that I need to break up. You can't get a green line anywhere on the piece to divide it.

4) This last question I guess depends on my first: If I'm using standard 8 1/2 by 11 cardstock, what paper size should I select for use in pepakura designer?

Thanks alot, help is much appreciated!

 

[Katsu]

So I guess my first question is this: 1) Does the paper size that the file by default comes in affect anything such as scale? For example, I worked on a BELAKOR recon helmet that says in the file name "A4" and by default the paper size that's set is for A4.

The second piece I'm starting on (the chest) by default is set to paper size "Letter" when you open the program. I just don't want to make another scaling mistake like I did when I first attempted the BELAKOR recon helmet (it turned out way to small first go around). I'm planning on using HaloGoddess's method for this chest piece. Her scaling tut is below:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...quot-and-More-Tutorial?highlight=sticky+scale

2) The default scale that a file is when you download and open it, is it a good/bad if your new calculated scale is larger/smaller than the default scale? I heard somewhere that the Halo armor pieces by default were scaled to the Master Chief's size, so therefore it sounds bad if any of your pieces came to be larger than the default scale (unless you're bigger than the MC).

3) This is probably very basic, but in Pep designer if you have one single piece that's too large for the page, how can you split it up? By default there are no visible split lines where you can use the "divide/connect" tool to split up the piece. More easily said, there is one solid piece that I need to break up. You can't get a green line anywhere on the piece to divide it.

4) This last question I guess depends on my first: If I'm using standard 8 1/2 by 11 cardstock, what paper size should I select for use in pepakura designer?

Thanks alot, help is much appreciated!

1) The paper size only affects how it's printed. It is VERY important to make sure this size is correct with your printer's paper type. When you change it, you will see the pieces hanging off the edge of the "paper" pieces on the right screen.

2) Scaling a piece is tricky... Way back when the scaling tutorials were written, a lot of pepakura files WERE scaled to master chief's height. But two things are different now: a) There is no standard, and there are a lot more files now, different people scale them differently, some people take the time to get them game perfect, others scale them for an average human (~5'10"), others just leave it at whatever size their 3d modeler spit it out in. I would NOT recommend "calculating" the scale for any piece, especially reach pieces. I have seen plenty of pieces that look like they were scaled for a two year old. The best bet is to look at the scale dimensions of the piece (in pep designer's 2d menu) and guesstimate how big it should be. If your head is 400mm wide, then obviously a helmet of 300 or 800 is too big or small. but some helmets have extra stuff attached to the sides or front that change the size of the piece, so you have to estimate how big it would need to be for you to get your head through the neck hole. Some helmets have low def versions which you can use to easily build and test it. A common trick of the trade is to take your measured head diameter, add on a bit extra for padding and sticking out pieces of the helmet itself. Then do a quick and dirty build. if it's too big or too small, adjust it by +/- 10%.. There is no good way to do this, just "pretty okay" ways, since each helmet has different needs. Just remember that the dimensions in the 2d menu of pepakura will give you a good hint as to its size.

3) In pepakura designer, there is a button that looks like a zipper. This is used to cut or re-attach pieces together. There may not SEEM to be places to cut, but once you turn on the zipper, it will highlight cut lines as you mouse over the piece, try and pick a spot carefully and then click to cut it.

4) 8.5x11 is "letter" sized, used most commonly in the americas. A4 is the longer size used in europe and asia.

Hope this answered some questions!

 

[Marty Falco]

1) The paper size only affects how it's printed. It is VERY important to make sure this size is correct with your printer's paper type. When you change it, you will see the pieces hanging off the edge of the "paper" pieces on the right screen.

2) Scaling a piece is tricky... Way back when the scaling tutorials were written, a lot of pepakura files WERE scaled to master chief's height. But two things are different now: a) There is no standard, and there are a lot more files now, different people scale them differently, some people take the time to get them game perfect, others scale them for an average human (~5'10"), others just leave it at whatever size their 3d modeler spit it out in. I would NOT recommend "calculating" the scale for any piece, especially reach pieces. I have seen plenty of pieces that look like they were scaled for a two year old. The best bet is to look at the scale dimensions of the piece (in pep designer's 2d menu) and guesstimate how big it should be. If your head is 400mm wide, then obviously a helmet of 300 or 800 is too big or small. but some helmets have extra stuff attached to the sides or front that change the size of the piece, so you have to estimate how big it would need to be for you to get your head through the neck hole. Some helmets have low def versions which you can use to easily build and test it. A common trick of the trade is to take your measured head diameter, add on a bit extra for padding and sticking out pieces of the helmet itself. Then do a quick and dirty build. if it's too big or too small, adjust it by +/- 10%.. There is no good way to do this, just "pretty okay" ways, since each helmet has different needs. Just remember that the dimensions in the 2d menu of pepakura will give you a good hint as to its size.

3) In pepakura designer, there is a button that looks like a zipper. This is used to cut or re-attach pieces together. There may not SEEM to be places to cut, but once you turn on the zipper, it will highlight cut lines as you mouse over the piece, try and pick a spot carefully and then click to cut it.

4) 8.5x11 is "letter" sized, used most commonly in the americas. A4 is the longer size used in europe and asia.

Hope this answered some questions!

This is very helpful, thanks. There's still an issue with number 3 though. Even with the zipper tool, there is no way to divide the piece. There are a few solid, narrow pieces that cannot fit on one page. You can't get a green line to divide these any further. If I need to maybe show you the exact pep file and scale I'm using, I can do that.

It's the Halo 3 Mark VI chest piece by Flying Squirl off the halo costuming wiki. The scale I'm using is height 407 mm (and the other measurements stay proportioned). Take a look at the bottom four pieces.

This goes for anyone who might take a look at it and is able to help. Thanks.

 

[Colonel Caboose]

I can scale all my files pretty good, but I do have one question. I am building Amon's mask from the Legend of Korra, and I was wondering since it was a mask and not really a helmet like the Halo Reach Mark V build I did, should I still scale it using the same technique for scaling a helmet or is there a different one I should know about? I just know for scaling helmets, you always add a couple of inches for padding and stuff, but for a mask I'm thinking that the scaling might be a tad bit different from that of a helmet, because it has to sit on my face, not my head.

 

[Katsu]

This is very helpful, thanks. There's still an issue with number 3 though. Even with the zipper tool, there is no way to divide the piece. There are a few solid, narrow pieces that cannot fit on one page. You can't get a green line to divide these any further. If I need to maybe show you the exact pep file and scale I'm using, I can do that.

It's the Halo 3 Mark VI chest piece by Flying Squirl off the halo costuming wiki. The scale I'm using is height 407 mm (and the other measurements stay proportioned). Take a look at the bottom four pieces.

This goes for anyone who might take a look at it and is able to help. Thanks.

Those pieces are the support struts, you can get away with ignoring them or something. If you really want to use them, you have two options:
1) undo the unfold and use the 3d model editor to create a crease or valley in there, this will add places to cut.
2) Just lay the pieces over two pages, print them and use the margins to create a glue-together tab.

I messed with the file and it is a butt at that scale for sure. I hope these have given you some ideas!

I can scale all my files pretty good, but I do have one question. I am building Amon's mask from the Legend of Korra, and I was wondering since it was a mask and not really a helmet like the Halo Reach Mark V build I did, should I still scale it using the same technique for scaling a helmet or is there a different one I should know about? I just know for scaling helmets, you always add a couple of inches for padding and stuff, but for a mask I'm thinking that the scaling might be a tad bit different from that of a helmet, because it has to sit on my face, not my head.

Scaling is never something to do with the old halo 3 calculations. The halo scaling calcs are relics from the pre-odst era. ODST and Reach introduced more normal sized people (the odsts and spartan3's seem to be shorter than the spartan2's). Pep files are made by people, and there's no forced standardization of scales for pieces. The best option is to go based on the measurements in the 2d scaling option, and do your best to estimate it. Then print it and test it. If it's too big/small, adjust it by 10% and try again.

 

[Colonel Caboose]

Those pieces are the support struts, you can get away with ignoring them or something. If you really want to use them, you have two options:
1) undo the unfold and use the 3d model editor to create a crease or valley in there, this will add places to cut.
2) Just lay the pieces over two pages, print them and use the margins to create a glue-together tab.

I messed with the file and it is a butt at that scale for sure. I hope these have given you some ideas!





Scaling is never something to do with the old halo 3 calculations. The halo scaling calcs are relics from the pre-odst era. ODST and Reach introduced more normal sized people (the odsts and spartan3's seem to be shorter than the spartan2's). Pep files are made by people, and there's no forced standardization of scales for pieces. The best option is to go based on the measurements in the 2d scaling option, and do your best to estimate it. Then print it and test it. If it's too big/small, adjust it by 10% and try again.

Thanks, and also I never did halo 3, I built a customized Spartan III from Halo Reach with the Mark V.

 

[Katsu]

I'm just saying most of the sizing tutorials, especially the ones based on height, are for halo3, so they're not very applicable to ODST or Reach armor (or halo3 even, but that's personal opinion)

 

[redwizard3d]

what do you guys use for holding your glued parts together while they dry. I have visions of tearing or not holding long enough for the glue to set

 

[Marty Falco]

Hi I need some help concerning any Halo chest piece. Most designs I've seen are split in two for wearing purposes. People have them segmented into a front and back piece. Should I build the entire thing, resin, bondo, all that, and then cut it? Or in the pepakura stage do you simply build it into 2 separate havles? I'm thinking for the overall structure, it's important to build the whole thing to make it hold it's proper shape before resining.

 

[Satchmo III]

Hi I need some help concerning any Halo chest piece. Most designs I've seen are split in two for wearing purposes. People have them segmented into a front and back piece. Should I build the entire thing, resin, bondo, all that, and then cut it? Or in the pepakura stage do you simply build it into 2 separate havles? I'm thinking for the overall structure, it's important to build the whole thing to make it hold it's proper shape before resining.

You are correct. It is wise to keep the torso in one piece until after it is hard in order for it to maintain its shape during the hardening process and to ensure that the attachment points line up correctly after you cut it in two. Good luck.

 

[JerryTheSpartan]

i need help with my build. what's the scale of a weapon? the default is definitely not the right size, and i sure measuring my hand won't work either.

 

[Katsu]

what do you guys use for holding your glued parts together while they dry. I have visions of tearing or not holding long enough for the glue to set

Usually it shouldn't take more than five or ten seconds to dry..

Hi I need some help concerning any Halo chest piece. Most designs I've seen are split in two for wearing purposes. People have them segmented into a front and back piece. Should I build the entire thing, resin, bondo, all that, and then cut it? Or in the pepakura stage do you simply build it into 2 separate havles? I'm thinking for the overall structure, it's important to build the whole thing to make it hold it's proper shape before resining.

Also to add to satchmo's answer, Cereal has a very extensive video tutorial on building a chest piece:
http://www.405th.com/showthread.php...-Chief-**-A-Step-By-Step-Tutorial-(My-Way)-**

i need help with my build. what's the scale of a weapon? the default is definitely not the right size, and i sure measuring my hand won't work either.

You can always reference the official sizing. That's worked fairly well for me in the past, since modelers usually aren't too off in the length to height scales of their weapons. If halo.wikia.com says the gun is 600mm long, then punch 600mm into the pepakura length! Make sure it's the right length though (usually going to be the longest of the three dimensions) since some modelers will put in the weapons with the height as the length.

 

[SergantTinkers]

When you guys make your forearm pieces, do you ever separate the forearm into two pieces, or would you always make the pep document large enough for the hand to fit through the end hole? I would imagine the latter, but I just want to be sure before I continue on making an incorrectly-sized part.

 

[Katsu]

It depends on your preference. Some people break it in half, so it's a snugger fit, others pep it to be big enough to squeeze their hand through for an easier creation and wearing process.

If you break it in half, I'd suggest doing so after you rondo/fiberglass it, to make sure the pieces keep their same relative shape to fit back together correctly.

 

[redwizard3d]

I was thinking it might be nice to try working out a mechanical way it could detach. Has anyone thought about the mechanics of a suit that mechanically fits together and actually works or is thay beyond the scope of pepakura do you think?(with regards to the mechanics of the forearm specifically and the whole suit generally). Also, thanks for the advice, i've since found that as long as you keep just the right amount of glue on the part it does indeed take 5-10 seconds to go off on a shallow curve and 20-30 seconds on a sharp(i.e. high stress) fold from what i've seen so far

 

[Katsu]

What do you mean "mechanically"? Is this within a single piece that splits apart, or connecting separate pieces to each other? Does a buckle count as mechanical, because that's what people tend to use for both... And the generic answer is: You can DO anything you want. Whether it works well, or how hard it is to implement is another matter. Think about your own means, and possibly get back to us with a more specific description of what you're trying to do, and what you're trying to fit together. I am a bit lost as to what you're asking.