"Help!" for: Papercraft or Pepakura

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hey everyone what do the blue and red lines mean i know their some sort of folding lines anyone got any tips?

Which model are you looking at when you see the blue and red lines? These lines indicate folding lines, but it depends on the person who released the model as to which color indicates which type of fold. For instance, all of my models are released with red lines being mountain folds and blue lines being valley folds, but this could be reversed for another modeler since it's up to that person to assign the colors. You could always reassign colors to the different folds to fit your own preferences, and to be sure you know for sure which is which.
 
Which model are you looking at when you see the blue and red lines? These lines indicate folding lines, but it depends on the person who released the model as to which color indicates which type of fold. For instance, all of my models are released with red lines being mountain folds and blue lines being valley folds, but this could be reversed for another modeler since it's up to that person to assign the colors. You could always reassign colors to the different folds to fit your own preferences, and to be sure you know for sure which is which.

this is the model im using, thank you for helping! http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/29538-3D-Gungnir-lid
 
Were you able to figure it out? When I look a the file you posted the link to (assuming you used the download on the last post of the thread), I don't see red or blue, but rather the default dots and dashes.

I downloaded the file from the reach file base http://www.405th.com/showthread.php/24086-*The-Official*-Halo-Reach-Pepakura-Files-Thread , I would assume that the red lines are the same as how everyone else does, and to be honest im still a little confused.
 
Ok, to figure out which fold is which, do this...

Open the model in Pepakura Designer (NOT Viewer). On the 2D side (the side where the page layout is shown), right click and select "Edge Color." This will bring up a box. In this box you will see three check boxes, labeled "Cut Line" "Mountain" and "Valley." By default, they will be checked (ignore "Hidden Line"). Uncheck "Cut Line" and "Valley," leaving only "Mountain" checked. Ensure that red is the color selected then go back into the 2D side (don't close this window) and box in all the pages. This will highlight all the mountain folds in the model, turning them red. When that's done, go back into the Edge Color box and deselect "Mountain" and select "Valley." Then, turn the color to blue. Once that's done, go back into the 2D side and box in all the pages again. This will highlight all the valley folds and turn them blue. Then, back in the Edge Color box, click on the "X" to exit.

Now, there is no question as to what is a mountain fold (Red) and what is a valley fold (Blue). When you print these pieces and cut them out and hold them up, print side facing you, the mountain folds will create a peak that will point toward you, and a valley fold will create a peak that will point away from you. How you choose to fold these is up to you. Many use a pen and trace over the lines back and forth to weaken the paper so it folds better. I prefer to score the lines with a dull X-acto blade. If you choose to score with a blade, the best way to do it is to score on the proper side of the paper. A mountain fold is scored ON the red line, a valley fold is scored on the opposite side of the paper from the blue line.

Ok, that's about as comprehensive as I can make it. I really hope that helps.
 
hey everyone what do the blue and red lines mean i know their some sort of folding lines anyone got any tips?

They are just different types of folds, choose a color to be your,

Mountain folds ------

Valley folds _ . _ . _ . _

by going over the lines with pen, it makes them much easier to fold, and by color coding it, you know which way to fold.
 
I am working on a MK VI helmet, my first attempt was incorrectly scaled so it was scrapped. Last night I finished my 2nd attempt, Im pretty happy with the result, however I have a question.

There are some parts that are not perfect... a piece doesnt bend as perfectly as its counterpart peice does on the other side, some pieces seem alittle rounded ect.... Does this happen with every build? Is this something pretty easily corrected in the bondo/sanding phase? Overall it looks really good and for my first helmet im pretty happy with it, but that said....

Should I just scrap it and start a new to make it perfect, or is that unrealistic?

Honestly if you're satisfied with it then go for it. Bondo hides the imperfections. I am doing my first helmet and there are parts that are not perfect, but I know it will be hidden with the bondo. So have at er' and have fun.
 
Quick question guys....I'm sure it been answered before, but i couldn't find anything after a quick search.

Yesterday I cut out all of the pieces for my Mk. VI helmet and scored them, so now I am ready to begin gluing. My question is: when I begin gluing, do I go in numerical order? Like start at 1, then 2, etc. Or is there a better way? I noticed on many of the sheets that a lot of the parts attach together, so do I start by sheet, and then attach those larger pieces together?

Thanks for you help!
 
Quick question guys....I'm sure it been answered before, but i couldn't find anything after a quick search.

Yesterday I cut out all of the pieces for my Mk. VI helmet and scored them, so now I am ready to begin gluing. My question is: when I begin gluing, do I go in numerical order? Like start at 1, then 2, etc. Or is there a better way? I noticed on many of the sheets that a lot of the parts attach together, so do I start by sheet, and then attach those larger pieces together?

Thanks for you help!

You're right, this has been asked before, but whatever. No, you don't have to go in numerical order. The numbers are only there for alignment purposes and not as an order to put the pieces together. You put them together in whatever order makes sense for you. Personally, I start from the top of the helmet and work my way down to the opening.
 
Thanks, that's what I figured, since there seemed to be no rhyme or reason to the numbering.

Yeah, they're pretty chaotic, and if you change anything (edit the file in designer) they all change too, so there's really no order to them.
 
guys when i was doing papercraft i found out some edge and some part mostly because my paper is too thick around 240g i'ts little bit come out so i try trick it out by sticking some unused printer and stick it out result is smoother surface. As possibly i did'nt need to bondo the surface only using resin.Hope this help
 
Again, the separate files are your only option unless you want to export both files to OBJ, merge them together in maya/3dsmax re-import them to pep, and re-unfold them, which will take substantially more time and effort than just pepping them separately. It's not as awful as you seem to think it is, and those are really your only two options.

Thanks for the feed back, the thing is that I have no exp in PEP and do not want to build half of each for them to not match up, is there a way to get them match up with out peping them together?
 
So I have a question regarding building a pep file to my legs. I have bow legs, which means my shins are not straight. Its minor, but still there. Would this cause any problems when building the shin pieces for my suit? Should I do anything differently? Any ideas would be great!!
 
So, I finished putting my helmet together, and a few parts are not as they should be. This is the helmet:
25G1u.jpg


For example, you can see how the sun visor thing is angled upward instead of outward as it should be.

How can I adjust the fully-pepped helmet to be the shape it's supposed to be, and then hold it that way for resin?
 
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