JediStumpy
Well-Known Member
Just would like to say that it looks really great! The size and shape are prefect!
Hope to see a mold!
Hope to see a mold!
My Br55 So Far
- Thread starter LeeKegan
- Start date
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Ask and ye shall receive. I went to Lee's and picked up his battle rifle so I could begin making the molds for him.
Lee's a nice guy and I really want to thank him for trusting me with this beauty.
I started with the scope. I sealed it with shellac, filled a couple of tiny imperfections with Bondo, and a few coats of primer to fill any grain.
The scope is suspended in the mold box by a dowel which passes through the scope. The dowel will be reinserted into the mold before casting which will allow the copies to be hollow. the bolts are for mold keys.
Here's the first half of the mold.
Lee's a nice guy and I really want to thank him for trusting me with this beauty.
I started with the scope. I sealed it with shellac, filled a couple of tiny imperfections with Bondo, and a few coats of primer to fill any grain.
The scope is suspended in the mold box by a dowel which passes through the scope. The dowel will be reinserted into the mold before casting which will allow the copies to be hollow. the bolts are for mold keys.
Here's the first half of the mold.
box o crayons
Sr Member
you couldnt of put your BR into better hands hopefully the molds turn out just as good as the original
LastSpartan
Sr Member
I'm out of words. I just want one
flying squirl
Sr Member
wow
i havnt checked in on this project in a while, just saw the modifyed version that can be broken down and the mold for the scope and all i can say is wow
oh and that i want one
i havnt checked in on this project in a while, just saw the modifyed version that can be broken down and the mold for the scope and all i can say is wow
oh and that i want one
S1l3nt V1p3r
Sr Member
Masterfully done!
This was a test run (unless it worked )
I added vents using sculpting wax rolled into cylinders. On the next go around I'll make them smaller in diameter. These were much larger than needed making clean up more difficult.
However one fell off as I was pouring the top layer of rubber which didn't allow air to escape from one end. That could be fixed by cutting a vent but...
One problem I didn't anticipate was the plastic shrinking slightly as it cured. that made it impossible to remove the rod from the casting. I'm casting a rubber rod to solve that problem.
I didn't vacuum degass the rubber before casting so I knew this was going to happen. Trapped bubbles in the rubber. I don't have any way to degass currently but I will this weekend and remake the mold.
Despite those problems it's going to be really nice.
)I added vents using sculpting wax rolled into cylinders. On the next go around I'll make them smaller in diameter. These were much larger than needed making clean up more difficult.
However one fell off as I was pouring the top layer of rubber which didn't allow air to escape from one end. That could be fixed by cutting a vent but...
One problem I didn't anticipate was the plastic shrinking slightly as it cured. that made it impossible to remove the rod from the casting. I'm casting a rubber rod to solve that problem.
I didn't vacuum degass the rubber before casting so I knew this was going to happen. Trapped bubbles in the rubber. I don't have any way to degass currently but I will this weekend and remake the mold.
Despite those problems it's going to be really nice.
smick6
Active Member
Hey I have an idea for the hole in the center and plastic shrinkage. Dont use a wooden rod use a piece of tubing. Something thin walled you can insert there and leave in but just trim off the ends after casting. I think you will have a hard time removing anything in that center cavity that isnt silicone. Even if you use silicone it is a very small diameter piece that will probably tear alot and sag in the center. May be use silicone around an even smaller tube the will give the piece some rigidness but still possibly pull out without ripping. I would also think about removing the sculpted thumb screws and adding real ones after the pour. Just some ideas.
Good luck. What plastic are you using.
Good luck. What plastic are you using.
I was going to use a much smaller wooden dowel embedded in silicone but plastic tubing would probably be better. I could lube it well enough to get it into and out of the overjacket. Or I could just order up a high durometer rubber rod from McMaster-Carr. I thought about Teflon but the way the plastic shrinks, anything that rigid would be no improvement. It's possible the unreinforced silicone rod would work. It only has to span 2 " unsupported.
I'm using Smoothcast 300
Glad you're not freaked Lee. I'll figure it out.
I'm using Smoothcast 300
Glad you're not freaked Lee. I'll figure it out.
rube said:I was going to use a much smaller wooden dowel embedded in silicone but plastic tubing would probably be better. I could lube it well enough to get it into and out of the overjacket. Or I could just order up a high durometer rubber rod from McMaster-Carr. I thought about Teflon but the way the plastic shrinks, anything that rigid would be no improvement. It's possible the unreinforced silicone rod would work. It only has to span 2 " unsupported.
I'm using Smoothcast 300
Glad you're not freaked Lee. I'll figure it out.
No, I'm not freaked out Rube. You've done a lot more than I could have done, with my time constaints. Its all a learning experience!
What about a wax cylinder in the middle?
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Could you use a hollow silicone sleeve, with a removable dowel (or Teflon rod) for support? Place the sleeved dowel in the mold, and after casting, pull the dowel out of the sleeve. The sleeve could be pulled into the hollow in the middle of the casting and not have to slide over the the cast plastic. I think it might be less likely to tear, and still be nicely rigid while casting the parts.
amdphenomx4
New Member
How did you Cut them? How long did it take? Nice job.
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