- Member DIN
- S970
New video will be up today at noon mountain time!
Triple ODST Spartan Build
- Thread starter DeltaAlphaZulu
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- 3d printed odst
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- Member DIN
- S970
After about an hour of filming and 12ish hours of editing and voice-over work my tutorial on replacing extuder assembly on Ender and CR10 printers is up on YouTube.
This is my first serious effort at doing these kind of videos, so let me know what you think!
This is my first serious effort at doing these kind of videos, so let me know what you think!
tahu505
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S505
Great video! I'm not sure if it's because I was watching the video through this forum page instead of directly on YouTube, but there was what can be best described as a decepticon screech from the end of the editors note throughout the rest of the video. Other than that I think the music and audio volumes were good and I liked how there was always a clear view of what you were actually doing!
- Member DIN
- S970
I appreciate the info and high points! I've had multiple reports of audio issues and I'm looking into it. Right now I'm leaning towards audio corruption when the video was being rendered. I honestly don't have a lot of expertise in it so it's more or less just a guess though! Thanks for watching though!
- Member DIN
- S970
Who doesn't love a Tuesday print failure! Luckily it was only at 50% scale.
- Member DIN
- S970
I also fixed the audio in my last video
CasuallyFlacid
Member
- Member DIN
- S121
Oof. Ya I feel you there. I just had a big ass part of a Sniper Rifle fail after 26 hours... feelsbadman
Brazen
Member
DeltaAlphaZulu im trying to follow your cutting up tutorial and i cant get past the ctrl+shift+minus part... tried it on both sides of the keyboard but my blender isnt doing anything even after a good chunk of time.
- Member DIN
- S970
Just finished painting a mock up helmet for the Zulu ODST. I should have the Alpha and Delta helmets done by Sunday night!
- Member DIN
- S970
Not a ton of physical progress this week, but lots of learning and preparing for a full helmet print this upcoming week. I need to give a massive shout out and thank you to Montec for getting print support settings dialed in to drop the full-scale helmet from 14 days and 2.8 kilos of filament down to 8 days and 984 grams of filament although all the extra math makes slicing take 45 minutes, but it's well worth it. It looks like it will fail in Cura, but surprisingly the supports hold.
That's it for this week, I may have a full video out today or tomorrow on filament joining to use up short spools of filament.
That's it for this week, I may have a full video out today or tomorrow on filament joining to use up short spools of filament.
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- Member DIN
- S970
Another day another concept mini helmet painted. I introduce to you the concept colors for Alpha.
I also have a short of painting this helmet that should be posted this evening or tomorrow and within the next week or so I will have a full video showcasing my full finishing process, aside from using spot putty, on this mini helmet!
(Edit) So I forgot that I never made the video for primer and final sand so you get that short first! The painting short will be released 8AM Saturday Mountain Time, but in the mean time here is the prime/sand short. I hope you enjoy!
With this helmet complete I only have Delta's mini helmet to paint and finish to have my concept helmets complete.
I currently also have one of the full-scale helmets printing and so far there's only minor issues with supports, so fingers crossed it'll be done in six days.
I also have a short of painting this helmet that should be posted this evening or tomorrow and within the next week or so I will have a full video showcasing my full finishing process, aside from using spot putty, on this mini helmet!
(Edit) So I forgot that I never made the video for primer and final sand so you get that short first! The painting short will be released 8AM Saturday Mountain Time, but in the mean time here is the prime/sand short. I hope you enjoy!
With this helmet complete I only have Delta's mini helmet to paint and finish to have my concept helmets complete.
I currently also have one of the full-scale helmets printing and so far there's only minor issues with supports, so fingers crossed it'll be done in six days.
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FalseShepherd
Well-Known Member
Those minis are awesome. I can't wait to see how cool your full size helmets are gonna be.
- Member DIN
- S970
Thank you! If all goes well at least one helmet should be done aside from a visor by the end of the year! I'll probably start with Zulu, because damage and quality issues aren't as much of a problem with that concept.
MistyFox
Member
I love the idea of the mini helmets to test the printing and painting; I should fix my printer so I can do the same to test out different paint schemes on my helmet
- Member DIN
- S970
After around 2 weeks of trial and error, 3 failed prints and a total of 9 days of print time I have an ODST helmet printed in 1 go.
Callianis
Member
Looks like you hit the ground running 
An ODST is on my horizone but only the weapons, accessories and helmet will be 3D printed
My comments a little late to the game;
There is a time limit in the firmware for how long it takes the bed to reach the temperature you set. If you reach the time out before you reach the temp everything stops and you get a halted error on your screen. I have this almost every time I turn on the printer enclosure helps, otherwise I just set the pre-heat temp to something that it'll easily reach within the time limit (eg 70) and then once it reaches that I'll adjust it to the higher temp I want.
You can adjust this time out once you know how to access your firmware.
You've discovered that while PLA is more beginner friendly in terms of less finely tuned printers will still print it, it's a big hassle to sand. Also softens/deforms at a lower temp if you leave it in your car. ABS is easy to sand but often requires an enclosure, and higher printing temps. PETG is the next step up but does require a well tuned printer, especially the retraction settings to avoid stringing. PETG reaches the limits of many stock 3D printers, inc in terms of the degradation of any PTFE tubes if you don't have an all meta hot end (you don't want it to degrade as it's toxic).
If you don't have any, automotive filler primer is your friend
An ODST is on my horizone but only the weapons, accessories and helmet will be 3D printed My comments a little late to the game;
There is a time limit in the firmware for how long it takes the bed to reach the temperature you set. If you reach the time out before you reach the temp everything stops and you get a halted error on your screen. I have this almost every time I turn on the printer
enclosure helps, otherwise I just set the pre-heat temp to something that it'll easily reach within the time limit (eg 70) and then once it reaches that I'll adjust it to the higher temp I want.You can adjust this time out once you know how to access your firmware.
You've discovered that while PLA is more beginner friendly in terms of less finely tuned printers will still print it, it's a big hassle to sand. Also softens/deforms at a lower temp if you leave it in your car. ABS is easy to sand but often requires an enclosure, and higher printing temps. PETG is the next step up but does require a well tuned printer, especially the retraction settings to avoid stringing. PETG reaches the limits of many stock 3D printers, inc in terms of the degradation of any PTFE tubes if you don't have an all meta hot end (you don't want it to degrade as it's toxic).
If you don't have any, automotive filler primer is your friend
- Member DIN
- S970
I appreciate all the great info, this venture will be my 3rd, 4th, and 5th suits to be fully finished.Looks like you hit the ground running
My comments a little late to the game;
There is a time limit in the firmware for how long it takes the bed to reach the temperature you set. If you reach the time out before you reach the temp everything stops and you get a halted error on your screen. I have this almost every time I turn on the printer
You can adjust this time out once you know how to access your firmware.
You've discovered that while PLA is more beginner friendly in terms of less finely tuned printers will still print it, it's a big hassle to sand. Also softens/deforms at a lower temp if you leave it in your car. ABS is easy to sand but often requires an enclosure, and higher printing temps. PETG is the next step up but does require a well tuned printer, especially the retraction settings to avoid stringing. PETG reaches the limits of many stock 3D printers, inc in terms of the degradation of any PTFE tubes if you don't have an all meta hot end (you don't want it to degrade as it's toxic).
If you don't have any, automotive filler primer is your friend
I never really ventured to mess with my firmware, but that is good information to know!
I like to use PLA because it's less finicky the PETG and isn't as toxic as ABS. Sanding isn't too bad with it so long as you follow a peaks and valleys methodology to finishing, but to lessen it and retain details I print parts at .1 layer height.
I agree that filler primer is useful in finishing, but my true friend is spot putty.
I also can't wait to see how your builds go!
Callianis
Member
I use spot putty or wood putty (or was it wood filler... they're different) for the big things that need filling, and filler primer for the finer lines and things for that silky smooth surface. For gaps in joining seams that need strength I drop in some bicarb of soda and then add superglue. The glue gets sucked down, there's an exothermic reaction and it sets rock hard - have fun sanding that down (don't bother with Dremel sanding drum - drum will only last a few moments before getting clogged and the friction will release stinging glue vapours).
Less toxic doesn't mean non-toxic, just as low odour doesn't mean non-toxic, so I hope you're not printing inside your home and/or have an enclosure with external venting system
Some printer stepper motors go in increments of 0.04mm so 0.12 might be a more appopriate layer height (the heights to choose from would be like this; 0.08, 0.012, 0.16, 0.20, 0.24) in Cura you can turn on Adaptive Layers so more vertical sections can have a higher print height and the more curved and detailed areas can have a lower print height set to reduce the "steps" you steep in sloping print lines.
I printed the helmet in 2017 and made 3 prototype versions of the shin/calf and boot cover in 2019... so I think it'll be ready in 2030
Less toxic doesn't mean non-toxic, just as low odour doesn't mean non-toxic, so I hope you're not printing inside your home and/or have an enclosure with external venting system
Some printer stepper motors go in increments of 0.04mm so 0.12 might be a more appopriate layer height (the heights to choose from would be like this; 0.08, 0.012, 0.16, 0.20, 0.24)
in Cura you can turn on Adaptive Layers so more vertical sections can have a higher print height and the more curved and detailed areas can have a lower print height set to reduce the "steps" you steep in sloping print lines.I printed the helmet in 2017 and made 3 prototype versions of the shin/calf and boot cover in 2019... so I think it'll be ready in 2030
- Member DIN
- S970
Initial sanding on the helmet is done, so I'm on to filler primer and spot putty! I hope to have the base coat done by this weekend and to be moving on to detail work next week. In the mean time have a short on the debed and sanding!
- Member DIN
- S970
Helmet is now primed and the first round of sanding is done, on to spot putty!
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