Zat German
Member
Wow, it looks nice. I like the clear plate rather than the holes in mine. It would be a lot easier to see what you are doing. It is not listed as fitting my Dremel model though.I was referring to this one
it's really nice
Foam Armoring
- Thread starter BenStreeper
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Zat German
Member
I have the cordless 10.8v Lithium Ion Dremel 8000. I was looking at comments on Amazon after I posted and someone said that it does fit the 800/8000. Dremel is really annoying about supporting the cordless 10.8v tools, some stuff works, some does not. No attachments list the 8000 as fitting. I used sugru to fill in the giant gap that happens if you try to use the cordless with the Detailers Grip. Works great now.
Gamemaster
Member
I used 10 foam mats, a 50 pack of 8" gluesticks and 8 cans of plastidip spraycans for a complete MKVI (no weapon) Hope this helps
Also, 2mm crafting foam works good for bass relief detail, I found some on Amazon and have included it on my squidoo page (follow the link in my sig...)
Cheers
PS- I agree with Zat German, the cans are probably cheaper, spray bombs can get expensive.
I don't know if it is just the foam I found or if this is how it is for all of it, but I find the top layer is much squishier and then there is a dense layer on the bottom at the textured part. Is this normal? does anyone else find that it makes it very difficult to adjust cuts after the fact?
Bishorzidi
Jr Member
Yeah I've found this to be true too, but I just try to make my cuts as accurate as possible the first time around. Once I have my piece cut out I take sandpaper to it to get rid of all the loose junk hanging off, and the rough edges, and if you have really gritty sandpaper you can even take away material to make your cuts more accurate. I use scissors for my large cuts though, and if you're doing this make sure you go around all like pieces in the same direction so if you have any angle on the cut it stays consistant and helps your symmetry. Hope this helps.
Personally I think a straight edge is more effective for cutting the foam. Scissors mess with my thumbs and exacto knives dull easily and can't really put enough force behind them. You can score it and cut it with a straight edge/box cutter and it comes out mostly clean. Just like all other methods use sand paper to clean up the strings left from carving into it.
Jester1014
Well-Known Member
Have you at all heard about Hotknives, Or using scalpal blades?
Hot knife w/#11 blade or a cold scalpal and your in the game with cleaner cuts that you can think about.
Gamemaster
Member
For rounded parts I shape them first with the heatgun, that way when you glue it together there is less stress on the seam, making it easier to hold together for greater accuracy. I have a tutorial video for the heatgun and other techniques here: www.squidoo.com/how-to-make-halo-armor
Happy armoring!
I think it was mentioned here but never actually put to the test in detail but I decided to Use Mod Podge to smooth out my Foam Armoring instead of straight Plasti Dip. A detailed account can be seen In my Build Thread page 4 Here. For those Foam armorer's who notice that plasti dip spray still leaves the Gritty Foam feel I impart this knowledge if it helps. Although its possible to Primer the plasti dip then sand it smoother I haven't tried. But Mod Podging with atleast 5 layers and then wet sanding it has made my armor that was already plasti dipped more rigid and smoother to the feel and also with enough layers and time and care you can get rid of seams.
Gamemaster
Member
Advanced foam crafting tip:
Another way to help eliminate seams is to attach the pep file edges together and make your foam templates larger. You can also cut the templates along definition, or paint change lines and re-tape them where you don't want a seam. This works great on rounded areas too. You can still cut mountains and valleys directly into the back of the foam where needed to give the front definition. It takes practice to get it right but once you can do this many of the seams will vanish and combined with the heatgun you can make a nice helmet too:
Another way to help eliminate seams is to attach the pep file edges together and make your foam templates larger. You can also cut the templates along definition, or paint change lines and re-tape them where you don't want a seam. This works great on rounded areas too. You can still cut mountains and valleys directly into the back of the foam where needed to give the front definition. It takes practice to get it right but once you can do this many of the seams will vanish and combined with the heatgun you can make a nice helmet too:
Zero Prime
Well-Known Member
Okay so i am going to re-do my chest piece out of foam and I am wondering How do you seal it (Remove the seams)
Advanced foam crafting tip:
Another way to help eliminate seams is to attach the pep file edges together and make your foam templates larger. You can also cut the templates along definition, or paint change lines and re-tape them where you don't want a seam. This works great on rounded areas too. You can still cut mountains and valleys directly into the back of the foam where needed to give the front definition. It takes practice to get it right but once you can do this many of the seams will vanish and combined with the heatgun you can make a nice helmet too:
Please do a tutorial. Please.
Gamemaster
Member
#1 I hide seams by joining the pep parts together before I cut the foam and then cutting mountains and valleys out of the backside of the part. I also try to put the seams on a raised ridge, a burned definition line or a paintchange line.
#2 Where I have a visible seam I try to do a really smooth and tight glue job, let it set nicely and then heavy glue the seam from the back so it never moves (less stress on the seam)
#3 Lastly you can use flexible spot putty to cover anything you are not happy with.
Good luck
When I make a Kat helmet for my wife I might do a how-to-make-it-seamless video. No promise candies though
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