vivalablake89
Active Member
Yeah flexibility is actually great because of the semi rigid resin so it doesn't crack, also holding a weapon is no problemo was able to get a nice grip with nothing falling apart or cracking on me.
Hell Jumper Foam Armor (Spartan Buck)
- Thread starter vivalablake89
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Yeah flexibility is actually great because of the semi rigid resin so it doesn't crack, also holding a weapon is no problemo was able to get a nice grip with nothing falling apart or cracking on me.
vivalablake89
Active Member
Okay ladies and gentlemen, I can finally post some updates again now that I have finished the sealing and painting portion. So as of yesterday I finished painting everything and finalized the strapping portion for the upper body, I don't have pics of the legs yet because I am still working out the strap situation down there, I pretty much have everything started and almost finished but I am having trouble with the knee pads and trying to figure out how to make them look like they are just attached to the front with no straps showing. Its becoming quite the head scratcher, but hoping to have figured out something by mid week so I can have everything attached to my suit by then.
Also just because the armor portion is done does not mean this thread is, there is still plenty of attachments for the undersuit to be put on. plus electronics and lights and the helmet. Also thinking about incorporating and smoke machine into the boosters on the back. Anyways here is the pics of the upper body with paint job, hope you all enjoy! I will be posting a tutorial with pics ltr this afternoon to show the process I went thru also a link to the youtube video tutorial that taught me this technique.
Also sorry about the MJ one glove style
still need to finish assembly of the other glove haha...
Also just because the armor portion is done does not mean this thread is, there is still plenty of attachments for the undersuit to be put on. plus electronics and lights and the helmet. Also thinking about incorporating and smoke machine into the boosters on the back. Anyways here is the pics of the upper body with paint job, hope you all enjoy! I will be posting a tutorial with pics ltr this afternoon to show the process I went thru also a link to the youtube video tutorial that taught me this technique.
Also sorry about the MJ one glove style
still need to finish assembly of the other glove haha...
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
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- S2424
Don't apologize, everything look super, FANTASTIC!!!!! even w/ the pj pants on......unless you are wearing a hideous pair of golf pants......
vivalablake89
Active Member
Guess that's the last time I wear my Sunday Golf pants hahaha
mblackwell1002
Sr Member
I've got my eye on you...Guess that's the last time I wear my Sunday Golf pants hahaha
Dude. That armor looks sooo nice. Like, crazy papeesheewoosh nice. Wow. *insert mind blown image here*
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
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- S128
Stunning. I'm looking forward to seeing the process. Your edges are so different than any other foam build I've seen. And the idea that it is resin and foam is blowing my mind.
Also curious about the smoke machine. Someone asked me to do that for my suit, but it doesn't fit into Reach.
For hiding the strapping I was going to try making the straps go under the undersuit, similar to using large button holes (like on shirts) to feed the strap though. Possible downsides include uncomfortable straps against your skin and seeing skin through the button holes.
Also curious about the smoke machine. Someone asked me to do that for my suit, but it doesn't fit into Reach.
For hiding the strapping I was going to try making the straps go under the undersuit, similar to using large button holes (like on shirts) to feed the strap though. Possible downsides include uncomfortable straps against your skin and seeing skin through the button holes.
Reclaimara
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S713
Looks great! Helljumper is amazing, but seeing it especially as Buck? Perfect. Looks really nice, especially that it's the first Buck I'm seeing at that finished.
Just a question, are you gonna keep the chest pieces together or rather make them in different parts of your torso? Cuz that crotch piece is really damn high. O_O
And overall it really looks great, but I'm wondering if keeping things like that won't hinder your movement.
At least in the game the chest plate isn't connected with the lower or crotch pieces, so Buck can move freely. o.o
But seriously, it's very impressive seeing it all painted.
Just a question, are you gonna keep the chest pieces together or rather make them in different parts of your torso? Cuz that crotch piece is really damn high. O_O
And overall it really looks great, but I'm wondering if keeping things like that won't hinder your movement.
At least in the game the chest plate isn't connected with the lower or crotch pieces, so Buck can move freely. o.o
But seriously, it's very impressive seeing it all painted.
vivalablake89
Active Member
Looks great! Helljumper is amazing, but seeing it especially as Buck? Perfect. Looks really nice, especially that it's the first Buck I'm seeing at that finished.
Just a question, are you gonna keep the chest pieces together or rather make them in different parts of your torso? Cuz that crotch piece is really damn high. O_O
And overall it really looks great, but I'm wondering if keeping things like that won't hinder your movement.
At least in the game the chest plate isn't connected with the lower or crotch pieces, so Buck can move freely. o.o
But seriously, it's very impressive seeing it all painted.
Thank You!
And yes all the torso pieces are attached together but does not restrict movement at all, I can still sit down and no problems. As for the placement my shirt in that picture just hangs very low from my waist it meets up a little higher then it should but its not noticeable on my undersuit. That was my first concerned when I made it the first time and it was really bad, like it ended near my belly button, So I had to resize and it was much the second. By mid week I should have a full body test with my actual body suit and it will look much better.
Dirtdives2424
Division Scheduler and Keeper of Con Lists
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Just keep the golf pants in the draw please..........
vivalablake89
Active Member
Alright so I am going to try and explain the process of how I did my armor and was able to put resin on there without cracking.
So basically a little introduction to this, the reason why I did this process is because I like building with foam as apposed to card stock and fiber glass. But I really like the way pepped stuff looks finished as apposed to foam because of ridges and blemishes and dimples that appear after painting foam. So I was looking into different methods to get the best of both worlds. Anyways I came across this video on Youtube posted by a username James Bruton he also has a site http://xrobots.co.uk and he does a great tutorial video, at the end I will link the video to this comment so if anyone wants to check it out.
1) So have you foam piece built and ready for sealing, I usually will give it a once over with the heat gun to make sure all cells are closed on the outer layer.
2) Next get some good PVA glue I used Elmers Glue All since it is non-toxic.
I put about three coats of this stuff down on my item, it should smooth out the surface and also act as a bonding agent for the resin as well as fill in seams, gaps, and unwanted blemishes.
3) This is we're things get fun, First off there are many different types of resin's and products out there but this one seems to work the best for foam Smooth-On 65D
Its good for foam because it wont crack because it is semi rigid which is allows for some bending and resistance without the risk of cracks, and is meant for roto casting which will give it a nice smooth finish as long as you are constantly moving your piece after you have coated it. I will usually hot glue my piece on a PVC pipe so that will allow me to move my piece freely while coating and afterwards to smooth it out. I will put 2 to 3 coats on depending on how it looks and feels after 2 coats. You only need to work in small batches of this stuff because it cures very fast, 15 minutes to be exact. And after about 5 minutes you will want to stop applying or you will get brush marks in your piece I usually will use a cheap $ brush that you can buy in bulk and can throw out after one use. So you will want to glob it on at first when the resin is very lucid and then brush on very quickly covering your surface, I'd say the most space I got covered at once was about 12 by 8 inches so remember timing is everything.
4) Next you will end up with air bubbles and some possible brush marks so make sure you sand in between each coat and before moving onto the next step. I'll recommend a 280 or 300 grit which is very fine but this stuff sands very easily. But it should come out very smooth in the end
5) And finally afterwards you want to give it a nice primer and also something that will fill in other imperfections you may have missed with the resin and sanding so one coat of Rustoleum Primer Filler.
A lot of you who have pepped before should know what this is but it is very good for filling in those tinniest of blemishes, it is also sand able but I usually just run my thumb over any loose crud or drips that came out of the can and it will lift right off, you could also use bondo on other sections if you feel it needs it.
This process usually makes everything look very plastic like, so afterwards whatever you do is up to you at that point. I painted all my stuff with duplicolor spray, but I guess that decision is up to your preference. Anyways hope you enjoyed here is the link to the Video
And if anyone has any questions feel free to message me.
So basically a little introduction to this, the reason why I did this process is because I like building with foam as apposed to card stock and fiber glass. But I really like the way pepped stuff looks finished as apposed to foam because of ridges and blemishes and dimples that appear after painting foam. So I was looking into different methods to get the best of both worlds. Anyways I came across this video on Youtube posted by a username James Bruton he also has a site http://xrobots.co.uk and he does a great tutorial video, at the end I will link the video to this comment so if anyone wants to check it out.
1) So have you foam piece built and ready for sealing, I usually will give it a once over with the heat gun to make sure all cells are closed on the outer layer.
2) Next get some good PVA glue I used Elmers Glue All since it is non-toxic.
I put about three coats of this stuff down on my item, it should smooth out the surface and also act as a bonding agent for the resin as well as fill in seams, gaps, and unwanted blemishes.
3) This is we're things get fun, First off there are many different types of resin's and products out there but this one seems to work the best for foam Smooth-On 65D
Its good for foam because it wont crack because it is semi rigid which is allows for some bending and resistance without the risk of cracks, and is meant for roto casting which will give it a nice smooth finish as long as you are constantly moving your piece after you have coated it. I will usually hot glue my piece on a PVC pipe so that will allow me to move my piece freely while coating and afterwards to smooth it out. I will put 2 to 3 coats on depending on how it looks and feels after 2 coats. You only need to work in small batches of this stuff because it cures very fast, 15 minutes to be exact. And after about 5 minutes you will want to stop applying or you will get brush marks in your piece I usually will use a cheap $ brush that you can buy in bulk and can throw out after one use. So you will want to glob it on at first when the resin is very lucid and then brush on very quickly covering your surface, I'd say the most space I got covered at once was about 12 by 8 inches so remember timing is everything.
4) Next you will end up with air bubbles and some possible brush marks so make sure you sand in between each coat and before moving onto the next step. I'll recommend a 280 or 300 grit which is very fine but this stuff sands very easily. But it should come out very smooth in the end
5) And finally afterwards you want to give it a nice primer and also something that will fill in other imperfections you may have missed with the resin and sanding so one coat of Rustoleum Primer Filler.
A lot of you who have pepped before should know what this is but it is very good for filling in those tinniest of blemishes, it is also sand able but I usually just run my thumb over any loose crud or drips that came out of the can and it will lift right off, you could also use bondo on other sections if you feel it needs it.
This process usually makes everything look very plastic like, so afterwards whatever you do is up to you at that point. I painted all my stuff with duplicolor spray, but I guess that decision is up to your preference. Anyways hope you enjoyed here is the link to the Video
Reclaimara
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S713
I dunno tbh, to me even with it always looks like foam to me, I can always immediately spot it. o_o
Earlier, before you said about resin I just thought you made thicker paint layers.
But I was wondering why use resin on foam pieces. I mean, I thought it was the point of foam being comfy because it's flexible O_O And by adding resin you rather make it harder, so resin could actually crack and break... o.o
Earlier, before you said about resin I just thought you made thicker paint layers.
But I was wondering why use resin on foam pieces. I mean, I thought it was the point of foam being comfy because it's flexible O_O And by adding resin you rather make it harder, so resin could actually crack and break... o.o
mblackwell1002
Sr Member
The reason for this method is mainly for easy construction, and adding resin to fill gaps, smooth out edges, whatever.
Smooth-on 65D is a semi-rigid resin! It retains it's shape while remaining semi-flexible and impact resistant. It does not crack like other resins do.
I've done a similar method before as well. I coated a helmet in resin (like 5+ coats) and then Bondo'd it for a hard, resilient helmet. I could tear out the foam afterwards and be left with a hollow, foam shell. The PVA glue seals the pores, and the resin doesn't stick, allowing me to remove the foam. The purpose of applying resin to foam is mainly to make it look nicer, as if it were Pepakura or 3D printed. Let me just tell you applying resin to foam while retaining detail is a pain in the....Hashtag, Hashtag, Hashtag.
Reclaimara
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S713
mblackwell1002 Oh, I understand. I thought if you bump into something or something into you, resin alone isn't too strong and might crack, even if it's more flexible, especially that you haven't got a thick layer there.
But yeah, it might be just me but I always spot foam. Just rather think it's just someone added a thick layer of paint on top, at least it's what always look to me - I've seen more people already coat foam parts with resin.
I dunno, but foam coated with resin or just many layers of PVA glue, foam is very characteristic so maybe that's why kinda easy to spot.
But yeah, it might be just me but I always spot foam.
Just rather think it's just someone added a thick layer of paint on top, at least it's what always look to me - I've seen more people already coat foam parts with resin.I dunno, but foam coated with resin or just many layers of PVA glue, foam is very characteristic so maybe that's why kinda easy to spot.
PerniciousDuke
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S128
I don't think it looks like foam. For me the giveaway to foam is the edges... They're almost always 1/2" thick. I don't know if it's the lighting, the angles or maybe the color scheme, but many parts of your armory don't look like 1/2" thick edges. Did you use different thicknesses or maybe shave the edges a bit?
vivalablake89
Active Member
Haha my words exactly it was very much a pain in the Hashtag! plus I ended up redoing 3 of my first pieces because they came out sloppy.
mblackwell1002 Oh, I understand. I thought if you bump into something or something into you, resin alone isn't too strong and might crack, even if it's more flexible, especially that you haven't got a thick layer there.
But yeah, it might be just me but I always spot foam.
I dunno, but foam coated with resin or just many layers of PVA glue, foam is very characteristic so maybe that's why kinda easy to spot.
No thick paint here
, and to some degree you are correct its not as flexible, but the semi rigidness of the resin does not allow for cracking. I tested this on a small side panel piece and had bent it significantly and after releasing it just bent back into original position with no cracks, kind of like if you took a piece of Tupperware and popped a dent in it and then popped it back out. Its a very flexible resin which is why I only suggest using 65D on foam.As always you have a good eye sir
. A majority of the armor is made form 6mm and 2mm thick foam, just in the really top heavy and bulky areas I use 1/2 inch. The only place I can really notice it myself is the shoulder pieces. Which I think after I finish the undersuit and see everything together I may revisit the assembly process on those.
Reclaimara
Sr Member
- Member DIN
- S713
vivalablake89 Thank you for explaining! I always wondered about it. And yeah, the "thicker paint layer" is due the resin coating.
Oh and it's interesting that the resin is so flexible. O_O WOW!
PerniciousDuke I just said it looks to me, like - to me literally, not everyone else. Most people I see in Europe don't use such thick foam. Most of it is 5mm anyway. But I wasn't talking about the edges but overall look and texture. I dunno, but it's always very characteristic about foam. Which isn't bad! But this Buck is looking so damn good with the paint.
Oh and it's interesting that the resin is so flexible. O_O WOW!
PerniciousDuke I just said it looks to me, like - to me literally, not everyone else.
Most people I see in Europe don't use such thick foam. Most of it is 5mm anyway. But I wasn't talking about the edges but overall look and texture. I dunno, but it's always very characteristic about foam. Which isn't bad! But this Buck is looking so damn good with the paint. 
Voren Marr
Member
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Love this build.....
vivalablake89
Active Member
Okay so last night was a little disappointing for me, and I've been trying to build up to courage to make this update with some regret but here it goes anyways. So as you noticed CommanderPalmer the crotch piece does not meet low enough. I think I may have been trying to convince myself it did and it actually did fit fine on the undersuit when I had it on my mannequin which is actually taller then me, so for the most part I assumed it would fit me... Although I think it sinks lower on my mannequin because its shoulders are not as broad as mine. So I really was dreading this but I think I may have to redo the upper torso completely which kind of sucks since I was so proud of work to begin with which honestly when I started with that piece it was just for fun not even planning to do the whole suit. But I guess I've come to this cross road where its either do a half-a$$ job or do it right, and I guess with as much time as I invested I might as well do it right haha...
Anyways I took pics just to show you guys and see what you think, I'm already aware that the side panels need to be lowered and the knees need to raised just a little but I think my main priority is rescaling the upper torso and completing boots which I will have done tonight. Plus I know the crotch and abs and side areas look bare with that will change once I attach the undersuit pieces on.
Anyways I took pics just to show you guys and see what you think, I'm already aware that the side panels need to be lowered and the knees need to raised just a little but I think my main priority is rescaling the upper torso and completing boots which I will have done tonight. Plus I know the crotch and abs and side areas look bare with that will change once I attach the undersuit pieces on.
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