Hell Jumper Foam Armor (Spartan Buck)

[Reclaimara]

As I said, just sliding things lower/higher can have big impact.

 

[Dirtdives2424]

Also Dirtdives , PerniciousDuke is kind of right, it is up to my wife (whip cracks)

Whipped indeed!!!!

 

[SavedbyGraceG12]

Contrary to other opinions, they do look a little big to me. Might be the camera angle, or maybe it just needs a pair of shoes added to fill in the gaps. Ohh, and one more thing. How dare you, not doing a full suit up?! Lol, it was just weird not seeing the biceps and forearms.

 

[Reclaimara]

What looks too big, SGB? o.o

About the shoes - they seem perfectly fine. Buck's shoes are like that, having bigger armor plates.
The front piece is bit too thick on the top, but if you add some foam pieces to match it, it'll be perfect.

 

[Dirtdives2424]

oh yes....perfectly fine....... Here try these on......

 

[Reclaimara]

*cringe* why .-.

 

[SavedbyGraceG12]

CommanderPalmer

I was referring to the boots. And no, not that big. Re-read my post Mara. I said a little big, not too big. Dirtdives. Lol!

 

[whereisdanielle]

Dude thats perfect! You NAILED IT

 

[vivalablake89]

First off HAHAHAHA, sorry for the late response to everyone. I had a very long holiday weekend and I'm just getting back into the swing of things at my office. Anyways of Dirtdives would throw up the perfect picture to how I feel about my feet thanks for that bud. And CommanderPalmer and SavedbyGraceG12 I think I will be adding a bit more foam underneath the middle to front part of my foot, That way it looks like it lines up with the rest and doesn't look to big in comparison to the rest of my foot.

Im going to try and do the pieces I've circled out of 6mm foam and the pattern I lined out in 2mm. just to give it a tad bit more bulkiness, not too bulky of course.

Also while the idea of separating the abs, cod, and torso would be a good idea, its not accurate to buck since it looks like he has hinges in those certain locations that have those components meet up with each other. I've already started on the new torso, So eventually the cod will meet up where it is supposed to but for now I'm just going to have it placed there temporarily of course. And when I finally get that top part sized correctly it should relocate into its proper position.

And whereisdanielle you where right about the hip pieces good call! I couldn't tell at first from the first reference photo, but after looking at several others and then trying it on myself it came out much better when I lowered them. They actually feel more comfortable sitting at the top of the hip now instead of mid way on my stomach hahaha...

 

[Dirtdives2424]

Your very welcome.....and keep in mind, there are plenty more where that came from.......and not just clown shoes. On a serious note, were you wearing shoes when you took that picture? it just seems the toe piece is too far from the top of you foot

 

[vivalablake89]

Dirtdives I'm wearing wet shoes, but I have a plan to narrow that gap it might involve destroying the wet shoes but I think it will work and still look good.

 

[Dirtdives2424]

you wore water moccasins?

 

[vivalablake89]

Well they are technically a boot for surfing but yeah, and just take a look at bucks feet in the reference photos and tell me that, that's not what they look like ...

 

[serenko3]

As promised it is yours bro, And damn I can't believe my beard has become a signature part of me like that, Maybe I will change m name to the BeardedSpartan hahaha, Also now that you have all called me out on it I'm growing it back Bwhahahahah!!!!

But then you will be out of regs lol

 

[serenko3]

Alright so I am going to try and explain the process of how I did my armor and was able to put resin on there without cracking.

So basically a little introduction to this, the reason why I did this process is because I like building with foam as apposed to card stock and fiber glass. But I really like the way pepped stuff looks finished as apposed to foam because of ridges and blemishes and dimples that appear after painting foam. So I was looking into different methods to get the best of both worlds. Anyways I came across this video on Youtube posted by a username James Bruton he also has a site http://xrobots.co.uk and he does a great tutorial video, at the end I will link the video to this comment so if anyone wants to check it out.

1) So have you foam piece built and ready for sealing, I usually will give it a once over with the heat gun to make sure all cells are closed on the outer layer.
2) Next get some good PVA glue I used Elmers Glue All since it is non-toxic.
View attachment 246284
I put about three coats of this stuff down on my item, it should smooth out the surface and also act as a bonding agent for the resin as well as fill in seams, gaps, and unwanted blemishes.

3) This is we're things get fun, First off there are many different types of resin's and products out there but this one seems to work the best for foam Smooth-On 65D
View attachment 246285
Its good for foam because it wont crack because it is semi rigid which is allows for some bending and resistance without the risk of cracks, and is meant for roto casting which will give it a nice smooth finish as long as you are constantly moving your piece after you have coated it. I will usually hot glue my piece on a PVC pipe so that will allow me to move my piece freely while coating and afterwards to smooth it out. I will put 2 to 3 coats on depending on how it looks and feels after 2 coats. You only need to work in small batches of this stuff because it cures very fast, 15 minutes to be exact. And after about 5 minutes you will want to stop applying or you will get brush marks in your piece I usually will use a cheap $ brush that you can buy in bulk and can throw out after one use. So you will want to glob it on at first when the resin is very lucid and then brush on very quickly covering your surface, I'd say the most space I got covered at once was about 12 by 8 inches so remember timing is everything.

4) Next you will end up with air bubbles and some possible brush marks so make sure you sand in between each coat and before moving onto the next step. I'll recommend a 280 or 300 grit which is very fine but this stuff sands very easily. But it should come out very smooth in the end

5) And finally afterwards you want to give it a nice primer and also something that will fill in other imperfections you may have missed with the resin and sanding so one coat of Rustoleum Primer Filler.
View attachment 246286

A lot of you who have pepped before should know what this is but it is very good for filling in those tinniest of blemishes, it is also sand able but I usually just run my thumb over any loose crud or drips that came out of the can and it will lift right off, you could also use bondo on other sections if you feel it needs it.

This process usually makes everything look very plastic like, so afterwards whatever you do is up to you at that point. I painted all my stuff with duplicolor spray, but I guess that decision is up to your preference. Anyways hope you enjoyed here is the link to the Video

And if anyone has any questions feel free to message me.

This is close to the process I have used. I haves used both acrylic and PVA to seal the foam first then either use 2 part plastic like styrospray or do a rondo mix over top.

 

[serenko3]

Hahaaha thanks bro I aim to please you guys and Nathan . My goal is to actually go to a convention that he will be at and meet him in this armor. Hopefully I will get that reaction

He will be at Dragon con this year

 

[serenko3]

Looks great vivalablake89!!! how is the flexibility? Did you try to hold a weapon w/ it? Those finger armor pieces look like they might interfere w/ holding an M6 or a DMR due to the finger guard.

When in doubt pinky out lol

 

[vivalablake89]

But then you will be out of regs lol

Haha very true, Unless your SF then you get a standard issued Kevlar beard lol. But I think I will stick with the S.O.P. for this one and keep my face clean.

This is close to the process I have used. I haves used both acrylic and PVA to seal the foam first then either use 2 part plastic like styrospray or do a rondo mix over top.

Hmmm Styrospay sounds interesting how well does it hold up? and is it sandable?

He will be at Dragon con this year

Dammit I don't think I will have it all completed by then and I really wanted to go this year.

 

[vivalablake89]

Okay so as far as getting everything fitting and placement of armor, with the exception of the torso and bringing the abs and cod lower. I'm pretty much done with that phase. I test fitted everything and like the feel and where everything sits on my body so I am finally contempt with that. I still need to get more paint and the visor for the helmet which is currently being fabricated by Johnson Arms Props, so once I receive his visor I will have all armor components completed excluding the torso and Knife. Then I will move on to the 2nd phase of my 3 part process which is the under suit. So I went to a con yesterday and while all the Armor held up and was secured and that worked out the wet suit was a little hot.... And since I will be adding more fabric for the under suit components I think I will be switching out for a lighter material. Currently I'm looking at a lycra bodysuit made by anovos for the storm troopers at the 501st. Its a pretty good price too. So as long as no one here as any objections I think I will be going with that as my undersuit option. phase 3 will be electronics such as lights speakers and smoke machines. But I am a long way from there... Anyways here is all armor components test fitted together for the first time. and yes I still need to get that mid section for the boots hehe.

 

[SavedbyGraceG12]

Looking snazzy bro! I was curious about the paint, but figured that you were probably not finished painting. As for Johnson arms props, Brian does some awesome work! I'll be getting a visor for him also. Funds are tight, visor should be boxed up and ready to go. Hopefully I'll get him a payment by the end of the week. Keep up the good work!