"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo

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If either of you can tell me what brands you use for bondo and resin, I'd like to know.. I'm trying to compile a list of materials by country.
 
Japan? If you're near Tokyo there are some shops that you could try in Kichijoji, Akihabara and Shinjuku, but I've yet to find anything other than standard resin types (epoxy and polyurethane) in home centers and hobby shops.

There is a possibility that some resin based flooring products will fit the bill, but I'm still looking...


Perhaps, but thats easier said than done when I cant read their language lol
 
Hi. I am making an ODST helmet and need some advice. I have never even heard about resin before I started. Would only using resin for the inside and outside work? Also, how much would I need for the helmet?
 
If you're in the Tokyo area I may be able to help you out.

Katsu: The brand of resin I'm going with is Nittoku (blue can, although how it differs from the purple can variety I have no idea... People just told me to go with the blue can...) which is available in sizes from .5 to 4kg. Hardener is available separately in sizes from 5 to 100g. Nittoku also make fiberglass mat and cloth.

http://translate.google.com/transla...u=http://nittoku-shoukou.co.jp/category/mold/



Bondo is another issue entirely and I'm either going to go with Rock Paint 'Quick Putty' or 'Auto Body Filler Light 026' from Dai Nippon Toryu. There are some better polyester fillers (like MoriMori) but they can be expensive.

I am near Tokyo. Im in Fussa, about an hour train ride to Tokyo.
 
Hi. I am making an ODST helmet and need some advice. I have never even heard about resin before I started. Would only using resin for the inside and outside work? Also, how much would I need for the helmet?

More than happy to help. Resin alone would "work" but it would not take much to crumple the piece, tear it, or otherwise ruin it. Really, you should at the very least do resin outside, and resin + fiberglass mat on the inside. You can generally find fiberglass mat for under 10$ for a lot of it, and two layers of that + resin will give you a really strong armor!

Also, thanks Dorvack!
 
IVE BOUGHT THIS TO DO MY JIN ROH SHOULDER , BUT IS IT GOOD ?

i cant fiberglass it from the inside because its closed

AND DO I JUST RESIN the armor OR resin and FIBERGLASS it ALSO
327260L.jpg
 
hello i was wondering if i could resin my peice in cold weather and still make it nice, its probably 40 degrees fahrenheit or so
 
hello i was wondering if i could resin my peice in cold weather and still make it nice, its probably 40 degrees fahrenheit or so
Eh... you can, but it may not cure completely, and if it does so it may take a long time.
I'd suggest a space heater in close proximity to the piece, just so it gets some warm air. It will help the curing process along.
I understand though, it's about to hit freezing here, snow is on the way, and I'm just starting my build. I'll have to pep everything and wait until spring lol.
 
IVE BOUGHT THIS TO DO MY JIN ROH SHOULDER , BUT IS IT GOOD ?

i cant fiberglass it from the inside because its closed

AND DO I JUST RESIN the armor OR resin and FIBERGLASS it ALSO
327260L.jpg

You do both, resin the outside and fiberglass the inside with resin also. This makes it structurally solid and will make your armor last for more than just one wear.
For a closed piece I'd suggest Rondo. It's a 50-50 mix of resin and bondo, mixed together to form a liquid, then poured into a piece and sloshed around inside it until it sets.
For closed pieces, cut a small hole in the piece and use a funnel to guide the rondo in, then just move the piece around until you feel as though the entire inside is covered. This will make it extremely solid, and I think you'll be very happy with the structural stability it provides.
 
Be careful, when using rondo to harden a closed piece, not to add too much hardener catalyst. If it cures too quickly, the rondo will shrink, sucking in the sides of the piece; leaving you with a concave surface.
 
Good evening members of the 405th! Firstly, I wanted to say thanks to all the members and mods that make these forums as chock full of information as they are. As I was putting together my first post here in one of the help stickies, I realized that for as many threads and requests as there that the vast majority of the response is very supportive and helpful. So kudos to you all for that!

On to my question: I'm in the midst of building my first helmet, specifically I've recently finished putting a coat of rondo on the interior. (The build is linked in my sig if you'd like all the details.) My plan after this is to do a few layers of fiberglass mat but I am not sure how thick that coat of rondo should be. Looking at some of the pictures in other builds it seems as if that layer is quite thick. Guesstimating from the exposed edges and cutouts it looks like it could be as much as 1/8" to a 1/4" and more in some spots. How thick in general is that first interior coat of rondo?

Thanks in advance for any advise that you can offer.
 
Thicker coats are better for grinding into, but add significantly to the weight of the object, if you don't intend to do any grinding/cutting/etc into the rondo layer, I'd keep it as thin as possible to reduce weight (1/8 if I had to guess..), but if you do intend to do a lot of detail lines or adding new indents from the outside, I'd go thicker, just be wary of the weight! I went with like 1/2inch on one of mine and it's like a lead brick.
 
Thanks Katsu, that's what I was looking for! There are a few areas that will get some more detail than the rest of the piece so I'll plan on adding a some more rondo in those spots before adding the layers of fiberglass mat otherwise leaving the rest of the rondo as is. Thanks for the response!
 
On the outside of the helmet? Not recommended. However, if you brush resin onto the inside of a piece, you can set fiberglass strips down into the wet resin and use your brush to dab the glass down into the resin, adding more as necessary. That's a pretty typical method for glassing a piece.
 
I downloaded a file from google and was able to open it on Sketchup (I have a mac) but i can't seem to find a way to unfold it. Could anyone help me unfold the files and have them in a print ready format (or walk me through that) so I can start working on my project. If anybody can unfold it for me, I think it has to be rescaled for me. I am about 5' 5" (I know this doesn't belong here but it's the thread with most replies)

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=be88ffd53f28283b15ce9e432a3a77b8&prevstart=0

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=60afb1dd1914cd833a653cb492d78488&prevstart=0
 
I have another noob question. Do I have to bondo the whole piece, or just any imperfections I find?

Less = more. Body filler increases weight, and it's also not the most damage resistant stuff. You only want to add enough to fix imperfections and/or smooth out sharp surfaces.
 
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