Alright so this is my first post. I suppose for a first post the best thing I could start off with is safety. From reading previous comments I totally understand how crucial it is to wear a mask while applying resin. now my question might be stupid and possibly already asked ( i couldnt read through all 500 and some posts here to find out). Is it acceptable to wear a military type gas mask while doing resin work? Hypothetically if it protects against chemical and biological weapons it should be able to protect against fumes right. Any insight would be appreciated as i would love to not have to spend money on a mask if I already have a gas mask that could work.
"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
- Thread starter 23Magnum
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Carpathia
Sr Member
As long as the mask is rated against organic vapors, then it will work. Having personally used a military gas mask to protect myself from nerve gas, I would guess it would work fine for resin; assuming you don't smell the resin in the process. If you smell it, the mask isn't doing the job.
Fluffy Kittens
New Member
Would Bondo All-Purpose Putty work? I have some of it lying around.
It's like a spackle. It could be okay for light patching of little holes or cracks, but I wouldn't use it as a replacement for Bondo Auto Body Filler.. At least from what I know about it.. I suggest trying it out though, especially if you have some lying around. You could crumple some paper and resin it, then B.A.P.P. it to see how strong it is. It could end up being really good!
If you try it, let us know the results!
If you try it, let us know the results!
Fluffy Kittens
New Member
I already used some for a foam helmet. I slathered the crud out of the helmet's cracks and it painted well, looked good, and didn't crack or shrink.
My main concern would be with its flexibility and strength. Bondo isn't super strong, but it's "strong enough" especially when fiberglass backed. I don't know if the spackle would be flexible or brittle, and to what degree of dropping or bending it can take. If it works though, go for it.
Fluffy Kittens
New Member
I also spackled on one piece. It worked. Wouldn't recomend it though.
As far as putty goes, it works if the piece is fairly rigid. I put an immense amount of hotglue inside the piece and the putty actually ended up helping the structure.
Carpathia
Sr Member
Generally, you don't want to go much thicker than 1/16" to 1/8" (and 1/8" is pushing it IMO). There are times when you will need to build up a bit of bulk, so thicker applications may be necessary, but I find that controlling the material is more difficult when you apply it thicker. It's much easier to control on thinner applications.
Regarding the temperature and polyester resin, have you thought about building a hot box for winter applications? If you perform a Google search for "Smooth-on hot box" you'll get a link to a decent tutorial on how to build an insulated box for resin application in colder climates; if that's something that interests you.
Regarding the temperature and polyester resin, have you thought about building a hot box for winter applications? If you perform a Google search for "Smooth-on hot box" you'll get a link to a decent tutorial on how to build an insulated box for resin application in colder climates; if that's something that interests you.
JayOneSeven
Jr Member
It all really comes down to preference. You can do whatever you want to do, it's your call. It also depends on what piece you're doing, as some will be better to Rondo, some better to glass.
I wouldn't say any of the common techniques are ever "better" than others. Just that some may be more useful to people given their individual needs!
But in this case, there are pros and cons! (my favorite)
Fiberglass Resin: Pro: Really Strong, long lasting, cheap. Cons: Toxic.
Aqua Resin: Pro: somewhat strong, non-toxic, the benefits of being non-toxic (work indoors, lick it?) Cons: Expensive, Harder to find.
Generally, if you have a driveway, backyard, or other place with no ventilation ties to a house, I would go with fiberglass resin. The money and strength, and general cross compatibility with other things (bondo) make it very easy and accessible to use.
However, if you need to work inside a house, are a super paranoid person about fiberglass toxins (It's inert when dry, and most boats have it in them, but some people will still be concerned about it), then you should spring for aqua resin. It works pretty well, but has limitations and doesn't usually see a lot of use. But being able to work indoors can be a huge plus, like for those who live in an apartment complex.
But in this case, there are pros and cons! (my favorite)
Fiberglass Resin: Pro: Really Strong, long lasting, cheap. Cons: Toxic.
Aqua Resin: Pro: somewhat strong, non-toxic, the benefits of being non-toxic (work indoors, lick it?) Cons: Expensive, Harder to find.
Generally, if you have a driveway, backyard, or other place with no ventilation ties to a house, I would go with fiberglass resin. The money and strength, and general cross compatibility with other things (bondo) make it very easy and accessible to use.
However, if you need to work inside a house, are a super paranoid person about fiberglass toxins (It's inert when dry, and most boats have it in them, but some people will still be concerned about it), then you should spring for aqua resin. It works pretty well, but has limitations and doesn't usually see a lot of use. But being able to work indoors can be a huge plus, like for those who live in an apartment complex.
Ghost Bear 027
Jr Member
Remember that the peppakura you made already has a load of detail you don't want to lose, and it's all on the outside. The fiberglass layer would be really thick, and really just ruin any of the detail on the outside you already had inherent to the pepp structure to begin with. AND you would have to cut and sand through it to get the detail you wanted back, which isn't much fun nor is it easy.
There's a great video on youtube of C3real Killer showing the detail work he did on a chest piece and how to finish it off. I HIGHLY recommend watching it. You can't go wrong with any of these.
http://www.youtube.com/user/dghezzo/videos
Good luck and keep at it! "Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast..."
SirPalesAlot
Active Member
Yes, you use the fiberglass resin on the outside of the helmet to give it strength so you can apply the fiberglass cloth/mat on the inside without the piece warping. There is no set amount of coats you must use. You just want to coat it enough to give it strength, but not so much that you lose details due to resin pooling up in certain areas.
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