thanks SirPalesAlot
"Help!" for: Fiberglassing, Resin, & Bondo
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thanks SirPalesAlot
Muddrinker
New Member
Hi I just wanted to ask what bondo/bog do people use as the stuff I have used clumps up rather easy and does not give a good finish
Austuck117
New Member
Are there temperature requirements for Fiberglass resin? I thought at first it didn't matter but then I began to look it up and people talked about making sure it gets plenty of heat. Now I'm worried that if I try to do it now (during the fall/winter season) that it won't set right. Please help. Thank you.
Austuck117
New Member
Oh. There it is. I found it. Thank you.
It would be helpful to know what kind you are using. A picture of the can or whatnot.
We usually use Bondo brand in America, you saying "bog" makes me think you are in Australia or the UK (I forget which it is). I know there is a more clay based one that is popular there, but really without knowing what you're using I can't offer much help.
So wile I'm waiting on cash to buy some resin and bondo and such.
I was wondering during the resining process about maybe thinning the resin with acetone to maybe aid it in soaking into the paper more, at my old work we worked with alot of composits like kevlar and fiberglass and we would use a mixture of resin and acetone to seal the parts for pressure tests. I worked at a subcontract of Boeing.
I was wondering if this might work for the paper too making it so you could apply a thinner coat and not worry about it gooping up and loosing some detail? But I'm concerned that doing a thin coat might make the curing process take an unreasionably long time or not even fully curing at all due to the thinner coat, and also would this make it a higher risk of warping due to the resin being able to soak into the paper easier?
What do you guys think? Do you think it might be a good idea, or a terrible idea, or maybe something I should try out and let you guys know afterwards?
I was wondering during the resining process about maybe thinning the resin with acetone to maybe aid it in soaking into the paper more, at my old work we worked with alot of composits like kevlar and fiberglass and we would use a mixture of resin and acetone to seal the parts for pressure tests. I worked at a subcontract of Boeing.
I was wondering if this might work for the paper too making it so you could apply a thinner coat and not worry about it gooping up and loosing some detail? But I'm concerned that doing a thin coat might make the curing process take an unreasionably long time or not even fully curing at all due to the thinner coat, and also would this make it a higher risk of warping due to the resin being able to soak into the paper easier?
What do you guys think? Do you think it might be a good idea, or a terrible idea, or maybe something I should try out and let you guys know afterwards?
i have recentley started aproject and used a base pepakura modle with curentley two cots of resin on the insde and out. unfortunitley it is worped. i what wondering what i could use as a filler in the spots that need it and what can i do about patrooding dents? since the helmet is hallow i dont know how to fix the big bumps.
Carpathia
Sr Member
If you could provide some pictures of your helmet, that would help us to determine whether or not it's feasible. Depending on the severity of the warping, you may or may not be able to fix it with filler. At a certain point it just becomes a waste of money to try, when rebuilding would be easier.
Especially back before halo armor techniques were really nailed down to a science, there were a LOT of builds that had no smoothing on the outside. It was sort of neat because it was a "more accurate" Halo CE chief since it was fairly polygonal looking.
You don't need to smooth the outside, as was mentioned above, it will just look very low res.
You don't need to smooth the outside, as was mentioned above, it will just look very low res.
Ghost Bear 027
Jr Member
Would thinning the resin with acetone make it too...watery? I can't think of a chemical term besides "diluted", but what I'm wondering is if the diluted version wouldn't actually make the pepp work soggy, and result in what I would imagine would be some massive warping. Like leaving a newspaper in the rain.
Carpathia
Sr Member
Use a rasp to take down most of the bondo before you start sanding. The rasp will create larger pieces than sand paper would; very little dust if any. When you move to using sand paper, consider wet sanding (wetting down the piece a little before sanding, or simply wiping it with a damp rag before you sand). Also, if you want a minimum amount of dust, it's best to stay away from power sanders as much as possible.
). However, I'll try wet the surface a bit. If wet, will the sanding paper still work?
Carpathia
Sr Member
Regular sand paper will hold up for a while, but automotive sand paper works better for wetsanding IME. Keep in mind that if you make the surface too wet, it will end up gumming up the sandpaper after a while. Another method, aside from wet sanding, is to get the surface as smooth as you can with a rasp and a file, then slowly and methodically sand with a piece of sand paper. This will still create dust, but it will not be flying all over the place.
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